Gripped: The Climbing Magazine December/January 2018-19

I’ll never forget my first full season of ice climbing. It began in November of the year 2000. I ordered ice tools and crampons from MEC after hearing that ice climbing was popular in Northwestern Ontario, where I was living at the time for university. There was no Instagram, Facebook or how-to YouTube videos so we had to learn for ourselves with little to no instruction. I asked my rock climbing partner, who was also a student, Australian Stephen Gale, if he’d join me because I knew that he had glacier experience in the Himalayas. We were not prepared. On our first day, we drove a borrowed car 100 kilometres north of the city to Orient Bay, a drive which should have taken us one hour but took us 2.5…

At the end of August 2016, pro ultra-runner and Canadian Running magazine correspondent Adam Campbell was with Nick Elson and Dakota Jones on a big traverse in Rogers Pass when Campbell pulled a block off the mountain and fell over 60 metres. He nearly died. Two years later, he’s back pushing himself in the mountains. 1. How did you get into climbing? My first-time climbing was at an Outward Bound leadership course in Northwestern Ontario. When I later took up mountain running, I found my runs moving into technical terrain, and I realized that my technical skills were a limiter, so I started climbing again. 2. How did your experience with the Canadian national teams help prepare you? I was fortunate to be able to live and train with some…

The North Face Beyond The Wall Jacket $160 If you’re travelling this winter to somewhere with mild temps, this lightweight and breathable, yet durable, jacket should be in your pack. Designed for climbers, it’s made to give a full range of motion. The two-way zipper is handy for harnesses and the hood provides enough protection for windy days. Patagonia Micro Puff Storm $589 This is one of the top performing pieces of the year for ice climbers who might find themselves getting wet this winter. It’s built for belayers in damp spots and will keep you warm when the jacket is wet. One of our favourite features is the mini elasticized internal snow skirt that contours to the body to help eliminate drafts. Arc’teryx Thorium AR Hoody $400 Revised for…

Vikki Weldon Sends Squamish 5.14a Vikki Weldon repeated her partner Tom Wright’s Paradise Valley route, Spirit of the West 5.14a in Squamish. Weldon said after the climb, “Three years of obsession, progress, failure, doubt and hope all came to a head today. The wind blew, the rock was sticky and the crew was all time. Still wrapping my head around it, but my heart is full and my face hurts from smiling.” First climbed by Wright in 2015, it was repeated in 2016 by Ben Harnden and Jon Siegrist and again in 2018 by Sonnie Trotter. “Just sent one of the best routes in Western Canada,” Trotter said after his send. “Yes, that’s a bold statement, but it’s truly that good. Thank you, Tom Wright, for bringing this granite masterpiece…

David Lama on Lunag Ri David Lama made the first ascent of Lunag Ri in the Himalayas, three years after attempting it with Conrad Anker, who suffered a heart attack on the climb. Hard Quebec Drytool Send Mikayla Tougas made the first female ascent of First Blood M11 at St. Alban in Quebec. Alannah Wins Again Alannah Yip won the Portland Boulder Rally 2018. Hard 5.15 Repeat Cedric Lachat has made the second ascent of Pirmin Bertle’s in Jansegg, Switzerland, called La Cène du Roi Lézard 5.15a. Squamish Guidebook Kevin McLane and Andrew Boyd’s newest edition of Squamish Rockclimbs, published by High Col Press (Canada, 2018), won an award in the guidebook category at 2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Awards. Es Pontas Jan Hoger made the third ascent of Es…

Jim Ewing and Maureen Beck climbed the Lotus Flower Tower in the Cirque of the Unclimbables in northern Canada this summer. It was the first attempted unassisted adaptive climb of the famous route. Ewing fell ill partway up the route, but continued with some help from rigger and photographer Pat Goodman and cinematographer Taylor Zann. The two climbers from Maine are both missing a limb. Beck was born without her left hand and Ewing had his left leg amputated after a fall while climbing Cayman Brac in 2015. The longtime New England rock and ice climber’s injury happened when he was leading a 5.11 at Dixon’s Wall. He had a number of surgeries in Florida before returning home. They met last December and after some discussion decided to attempt Lotus…