Innholdsfortegnelse for December/January 2018-19 i Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

I’ll never forget my first full season of ice climbing. It began in November of the year 2000. I ordered ice tools and crampons from MEC after hearing that ice climbing was popular in Northwestern Ontario, where I was living at the time for university. There was no Instagram, Facebook or how-to YouTube videos so we had to learn for ourselves with little to no instruction. I asked my rock climbing partner, who was also a student, Australian Stephen Gale, if he’d join me because I knew that he had glacier experience in the Himalayas. We were not prepared. On our first day, we drove a borrowed car 100 kilometres north of the city to Orient Bay, a drive which should have taken us one hour but took us 2.5…

I had forgotten my harness, and we got lost on the approach. Instead of turning back, I decided to make a harness. My partner Jon Jugenheimer thinks I am nuts. Once at the base, I finish loading my custom harness, which is 10 strands of cord around my waist with biners hanging everywhere. It’s snowing hard as I start up Postscriptum, but thankfully the rippled ice is taking a lot of one-swing sticks. As I near the top of the pitch, I realize that I had hardly noticed the harness. Then I get to the anchor. After clipping in, I sit back and immediately discover that two strands of eight millimetre webbing don’t cut it for leg loops. The other major problem is not connecting the front of the leg…

This past June, my sister, Tania, brother, Erik, and an old friend we hadn’t seen in 10 years, Julian, made the first ascent of the East Pillar of Mount Dickson with the help of our two guides, Connie Amelunxen and Crosby Johnston. Bad weather had compromised our plans to climb in the Tantalus Range, and our plan B was to climb somewhere around Squamish. Thankfully, we were forced to go for plan C: chasing clear weather up north all the way to the Dickson Peak area using the Roxy Creek Mining cabin, near Gold Bridge, B.C. Amelunxen had done risk assessment for a new mining company in the area and knew the access road was bulldozed. That meant we had the luxury of car-camping within decent proximity to the alpine.…

By 23, they ticked the Seven Summits and skied to both poles. Today they continue to explore the far reaches of the world while inspiring not only India’s girls but also women from around the world to get outside and have adventures of their own. The air is hot and mosquitos buzz incessantly. It’s spring in New Delhi, India, where twins Tashi and Nungshi Malik are wrapping up a celebration dinner with their cousins and friends after returning from Everest basecamp with their mother. Though the two climbed the peak at age 21, five years ago – and have since completed the Seven Summits and skied to both poles – they returned with their mother to share the area that launched their climbing career and to help her get a…

Conditions can vary significantly from east to west across the range – eastern regions are generally drier, except following upslope storms which deposit more snow on the eastern slopes. Areas to the east of the National Parks offer additional options for climbs free from avalanche hazards, and a drier climate – check the guidebook. Avalanche bulletins cover large regions and describe the general conditions. Local variation is common and climbers must remain vigilant in their analysis of the immediate conditions while climbing. Temperature inversions, rain and sun exposure can rapidly change conditions and trigger avalanches – snow loses strength as its warms. Predicting the stability of free-hanging ice is dubious. A rule of thumb is that large temperature changes within a short time frame will stress the ice and cause…

Established in 1998, and now under completely new management and leadership the Cody Ice Climbing Festival seeks to teach and inspire climbers of all abilities to achieve great new heights. The Cody Ice Climbing Festival will offer world-class instruction through ice clinics in one of the most exciting ice climbing venues in the world. Our nightly speakers will draw from some of the most accomplished and inspiring alpinists and ice climbers alive. Regardless if you are an experienced climber or completely new to the sport the Cody Ice Fest can raise you to the next level as well as connect you to the ever-growing community of climbers. The new Cody Ice Fest will be a champion for safety, stewardship, education and tons of on and off-ice fun.…

As climbing matures as a sport, the available resources to take it seriously as such dramatically increases. Coaches, gyms, and physiotherapists have gained an understanding of the biomechanics of climbing in a way that was in its infancy but a generation ago. Much of this developed through practical experience; but, increasingly, through academic study within the broad paradigm of sports science and medicine. This has allowed youth to enter climbing with a view to becoming high-level athletes and adults to maintain a high standard of performance decades after first becoming captivated by what was once a countercultural pursuit. Beyond Tape seeks to bring much of this accumulated knowledge to bear on the problem of avoiding injuries and recovering from them should they occur (somewhat inevitably). As evidenced by its extensive…

At the end of August 2016, pro ultra-runner and Canadian Running magazine correspondent Adam Campbell was with Nick Elson and Dakota Jones on a big traverse in Rogers Pass when Campbell pulled a block off the mountain and fell over 60 metres. He nearly died. Two years later, he’s back pushing himself in the mountains. 1. How did you get into climbing? My first-time climbing was at an Outward Bound leadership course in Northwestern Ontario. When I later took up mountain running, I found my runs moving into technical terrain, and I realized that my technical skills were a limiter, so I started climbing again. 2. How did your experience with the Canadian national teams help prepare you? I was fortunate to be able to live and train with some…

David Lama on Lunag Ri David Lama made the first ascent of Lunag Ri in the Himalayas, three years after attempting it with Conrad Anker, who suffered a heart attack on the climb. Hard Quebec Drytool Send Mikayla Tougas made the first female ascent of First Blood M11 at St. Alban in Quebec. Alannah Wins Again Alannah Yip won the Portland Boulder Rally 2018. Hard 5.15 Repeat Cedric Lachat has made the second ascent of Pirmin Bertle’s in Jansegg, Switzerland, called La Cène du Roi Lézard 5.15a. Squamish Guidebook Kevin McLane and Andrew Boyd’s newest edition of Squamish Rockclimbs, published by High Col Press (Canada, 2018), won an award in the guidebook category at 2018 Banff Mountain Book Competition Awards. Es Pontas Jan Hoger made the third ascent of Es…

Nungshi Believe you can and you’re halfway there. The other half is an unwavering commitment to set aside fears of failure. Too many of us are not living our dreams because we are living our fears. Innovate. If you do what you’ve always done, you’ll get what you’ve always gotten. The only way to do great work is to love what you do. Passion backed with commitment is a sure recipe for success. Tashi We encourage all budding climbers to follow their passion and dreams. Life has taught us that if you follow your dream with all the commitment it takes, you will succeed. It may take time and may test your limits many times over, but if you persevere you will eventually realize your dream. In this process, no…

Ray Cossette had only been climbing with Kevin Ross for about a year, but they had climbed some classic and difficult routes together before Kevin took a fall on a Yamnuska rock climb this summer and his lone rope broke. Kevin fell to his death and Cossette has been coping with the accident every day since. The two Alberta climbers had climbed The Beckey/Chouinard in the Bugaboos IV 5.10, Whiteman Falls IV WI6 and Virtual Reality V WI6 together and had recently climbed Forbidden Corner 5.9 on Yamnuska. Kevin’s fatal accident took place on a sunny and windless day high on Chockstone Corner IV 5.10, which is famous for the narrow chimneys near the top. They had wanted to climb Kahl Wall IV 5.10, but two climbers were on it.…

Evolv Shaman $185 The Shaman are one of Evolv’s best indoor climbing shoes with a nice down-turned toe that gives you precise placements for routes and boulders. They’ve been redesigned with more rubber for hooks and scums. The rubber is vegan-friendly and slightly stretchy for a tight fit. The middle strap is one of our favourite features as it works with the heel counter to give you all the power you need. Very durable for all-day gym use. La Sportiva Solution $210 La Sportiva has updated their amazing Solution, but seasoned fans need not worry because the updates are mostly cosmetic. If there was ever a great high-performance shoe for difficult plastic problems, these would be them. The redesign still edges on a dime and smears like no other. The…

The North Face Beyond The Wall Jacket $160 If you’re travelling this winter to somewhere with mild temps, this lightweight and breathable, yet durable, jacket should be in your pack. Designed for climbers, it’s made to give a full range of motion. The two-way zipper is handy for harnesses and the hood provides enough protection for windy days. Patagonia Micro Puff Storm $589 This is one of the top performing pieces of the year for ice climbers who might find themselves getting wet this winter. It’s built for belayers in damp spots and will keep you warm when the jacket is wet. One of our favourite features is the mini elasticized internal snow skirt that contours to the body to help eliminate drafts. Arc’teryx Thorium AR Hoody $400 Revised for…

The bulge at the top of a pillar can be the crux, so be sure to place a screw before surmounting it. Ice grades are arguably meaningless. A hooked-out WI6 can be much easier than an unclimbed WI4. Don’t climb in fat ice gloves, your hands will get damp and you’ll pump out. Bring many liners and a good shell. The best spot to place an ice screw is between your waist and your chest and close to your body where you’ll get leverage. Be sure to place ice screws close enough to keep you from landing on any ledges. Pack your bag the night before and be sure to bring lots of calories like trail mix and chocolate. Be prepared for winter driving and have an emergency kit in…

Climbers have been heading up frozen waterfalls in Canada for decades and a lot has changed, from the equipment and protection to where climbers find information on climbs and safety. Many experienced ice climbers began when there was no internet to use as a resource. They relied on journals, clubs, hear-say and guidebooks. In 2018, with everything at your fingertips, the way ice climbing information is passed along is very different. Many new ice climbers started after the dawn of Facebook and social media, so naturally those are the places they’re accustomed to going for information. And while Facebook and Instagram are great places to get started, in the end every climber should be familiar with the many resources available. Climbing Apps Climbing apps are still sort of new in…

DMM Apex $334 DMM has been making some of the industry’s leading ice tools for over two decades and it’s easy to say the Apex is their best workhorse of a tool yet. They’re robust, versatile and will instil confidence no matter what you’re climbing. Few tools allow you to move between hand rests without the pick rotating like these. The radius of the tools lets you clear bulgy cauliflower and awkward mushrooms. The attention to detail is obvious when you find the tool’s balance point. The picks are very durable and the handles fit big mitts. Great for long moderates. Black Diamond Fuel $299 The Fuels have been many climbers go-to tool for the past few seasons and for good reasons. They are a solid all-round choice for steep…