Gripped: The Climbing Magazine June/July 2025 Vol 27 Issue 3

The book Pushing The Limits: The Story of Canadian Mountaineering hit the shelves in 2002 and it quickly became the must-have hardcover of climbing in North America. Written by Chic Scott, one of Canada’s leading mountain authors, who made several first ascents and a famous ski traverse, the 440-page book is filled with first-hand stories by legendary climbers and full-page colour photos of iconic peaks. Scott spent years researching the contents, going so far as hitchhiking across Canada to interview reclusive alpinists of the 1960s and ’70s. The book, which you can find in the libraries of most longtime climbers, highlights the greatest Canadian climbers from 1890 to the year 2000, including Peter Croft, Brian Greenwood, Sharon Wood, Will Gadd and many more. It covers important ascents in every corner of…

Metolius Hardtop $90 Metolius’s Hardtop is a thoughtfully designed helmet that meets the needs of climbers looking for a combination of protection, comfort, and practical features. Its durable construction, effective ventilation, and lightweight feel make it a strong contender in the climbing helmet market. Petzl Glacier Axe $99 This is our top choice for glacier ice axes this summer, as it’s light at only 320 grams, has a sweet swing, and the pick bites into the hardest couloir ice. Arc’teryx Alpha SL 30 Alpine Pack $500 Light, durable and easy to use, this is one of the best alpine packs to hit the market in years. The pack is made of a cutting edge ultralight and waterproof fabric. It has lots of straps that are easy to strip, an internal…

Michelle LeBlanc started rock climbing as a university student in Halifax before moving to Toronto and eventually onto Squamish. LeBlanc is currently organizing the fourth 2025 Project Pride, a Squamish-based climbing event that’s heading into its fourth year. We touched base with LeBlanc about the importance of Project Pride this year and about some of her favourite bouldering spots. Where and when is Project Pride in 2025? The fourth edition of Project Pride will be held in the Grandwall boulders in Squamish on Saturday, Aug. 30. Are there any big-name climbers taking part this year? We do have some big-name climbers coming (new and returning) to Squamish for Project Pride! We’re waiting to confirm the roster for this year’s clinic athletes—stay tuned to @project.pride.bouldering to find out. How has Project…

Trip planning of any kind can take quite a lot of time and careful consideration. If you have a climbing trip coming up, here are six things you should do beforehand in order to increase your chances of having a successful trip. Get the Guidebook If you can, get your hands on the guidebook for the area you’re visiting as soon as possible. A good guide will contain important information for your trip like the best time of year to visit, the orientation of the rock faces, and details on the climbs, gear, or landings. It also may offer accommodation and transportation tips, some history of the area, insights about the local community, and suggestions for rest days. If you can’t purchase the guidebook where you’re located, do your research…

Trad climbing can elevate your skillset and introduce you to routes that you wouldn’t be able to safely climb with just sport knowledge. Trad routes demand preparation, humility, and patience. Take your time, build the skills, and find experienced climbers who value safety and stewardship. This is for the climber who has no idea what trad climbing is, so let’s get started. 1. Understanding trad climbing Before learning about how trad climbing works, you first have to understand the concept. Unlike sport climbing, trad gear is placed by a lead climber and then removed by the same climber while lowering or by their partner. The trad gear, which is placed in cracks both horizontal and vertical, is used to clip the lead rope into to stop the climber in the…

It would still be 28 years until Mount Everest would see a first ascent, but in the remote corners of Canada, two mountaineer teams left their mark on Canadian history. In June 1925, while the world was celebrating the first-ever television and the rise of jazz music, Canada’s highest mountain and one of the most formidable peaks of the Rockies were climbed for the first time. It was on July 21 that a team of Japanese climbers completed the first ascent of the remote Mount Alberta (3,619 m) near the Columbia Icefield north of Banff. “Japanese Alpine Club members travelled by boat from Tokyo to Seattle,” said Alpine Club of Canada life member and historian Paul Geddes. “Then by train to Jasper via Vancouver. The climbers were accompanied by three…