SHOWDETAILS MILANO+PARIS+BEST BRANDS Spring - Summer 2020

The future comes to life on the Milan runways. A future imbued with sustainability. A necessity, a turning-point. Ecology is the new textile, material and aesthetic philosophy. It unites harmony and functionality, responsibility and innovation, tradition and ethics. It renews, transforms, shapes, moulds, doses and balances. There is a return to simplicity. Fashion is revealed in its Essence. Garments are stripped of all frills and fuss. Excess is shunned. Linearity and cleanness are the order of the day. Minimalism is spontaneous and balanced. It is all about relaxed volumes, sharp tailored cuts, rigorous profiles and geometry. Raw materials are premium quality and natural. Linen, cotton and gauze are the favourites. Sharp tunics and outerwear, lime white and slate-grey suits prevail. Colours are neutral, muted and controlled. A sober, immutable style…

Essence as foundation, nature, substance. In philosophy, the essence is the unchanging reality of things. Milan shows an instinct for preciseness. It is vital. It goes back to the origin of dressing. Stripped of fuss and frills. The style is basic and clean. Without excesses. Measured. Precise. Decisive. Nodal. Controlled. Moderate. Serious. Strict. Sober. Minimal. Lean. Primary. Necessary. As necessary as the Jil Sander collection, which shapes pure white clothes as though dipped into salt. Long silk tunics come in rocky tones similar to dust dug out of a quarry. Shirt-dresses feature high necks and rigorous lines. Geometric pieces. Marble prints. Sharp, mannish, tailored cuts. Intarsia, fringes and raffia threads evoke a steadfastness of the soul. Rigour takes the shape of sails for Sportmax, which goes for a laconic, balanced…

Milan is lyrical, from the Latin Lyrica, and the Greek λυρικ?. It is the sound of a harp playing across the centuries from antiquity to the modern day. It is the expression of a feeling that runs throughout ages, spaces and locations; it is bound not by time but by vastness. It is the intimate standard of cloth, leather and suede, of lace, brocade and velvet. It creates a private dialogue of embroideries, crystals, ribbons, mirrors and metals. It is a song with a solo voice. The Blumarine aesthetic comes close to Sappho’s voice, embroidering words like ‘cutie’ and ‘smiley’ with crystals. The clothes are well-mannered verses, textile hendecasyllables to be read in hushed tones. Poetic issuances of blossoming jasmine, roses and carnations. They tell about the season of gentleness…

Milan offers a jungle full of ideas. The runways are lit up by the sun in its zenith. It’s a continuous summer solstice. Palm trees and liana invade the fabrics. Dresses become rainforests. Arboreal clothes have a feel of bamboo, teak, sandalwood and ebony. The runway is transformed into an imaginary path along the line of the tropics. It reaches India and Indochina, the islands of Borneo and Sumatra, the coasts of Africa, South America and Oceania. It describes unspoiled, green, tangled, textile and material woodlands. The Versace summer is exotic and tropical. The vegetation grows lush and intricate on fabrics, shirts and corsets, on tailored suits and draped dresses. Clusters of sequins and crystals illuminate mini-dresses, weaving a precious forest in shades of green, red and orange. The Dolce…

Il futuro prende vita in passerella a Milano. È un futuro all’insegna della sostenibilità. È una necessità, una svolta. L’ecologia diviene la nuova filosofia tessile, materica ed estetica. Lega armonia e funzionalità, responsabilitàedinnovazione, tradizione ed etica. Rinnova. Trasforma. Sagoma. Modella. Dosa. Bilancia. Vi è un ritorno alla semplicità. La moda mostra la propria Essenza. Gli indumenti si spogliano di orpelli e ornamenti. Evitano gli eccessi. Scelgono la linearità e la pulizia. Presentano un minimalismo spontaneo, equilibrato. Mostrano volumi rilassati, tagli sartoriali e definiti, profili rigorosi, geometrici. Esibiscono materie prime pregiate, naturali. Prediligono lino, cotone e garza. Sono tuniche, capospalla taglienti, tailleur di calce e d’ardesia. Si tingono di colori neutri, pacati, controllati. Evocano uno stile sobrio, immutabile. Poi la passerella vibra di nuove tonalità. Emana nuove fragranze. Diviene un canto…

Essenza come fondamento, natura, sostanza. In filosofia, l’essenza è la realtà immutabile delle cose. Milano mostra un istinto all’esattezza. È vitale. Torna all’origine del vestire. Si priva degli orpelli. Lo stile si fa basico, pulito. Senza eccessi. Misurato. Preciso. Determinante. Nodale. Controllato. Moderato. Serio. Severo. Sobrio. Minimale. Scarno. Primario. Necessario. Come necessaria è la collezione di Jil Sander, che plasma indumenti candidi, come immersi nel sale. Lunghe tuniche di seta, dalle tonalità rocciose, come polveri estratte dalle cave. Shirtdress dal collo alto, dalle linee rigorose. Capi geometrici. Stampe marmoree. Tagli sartoriali, definiti, maschili. Intarsi, frange e fili di rafia evocano la fermezza dell’anima. Il rigore prende la forma delle vele in quella di Sportmax, votata ad un’estetica laconica, equilibrata. I capi presentano linee pulite, precise, nitide, incisive. I completi sono…