SHOWDETAILS MILANO+PARIS+BEST BRANDS Fall - Winter 2022.23

What are we doing here, with fashion? Should I cancel?’ But no: I decided we must resist.” This is how Demna Gvasalia, creative director at Balenciaga, who has close ties with Ukraine, having fled to Odesa as a child to escape the war in his homeland Georgia, sums up the mood among designers at the recent shows: resistance, resilience and definitively a little exorcism. What else can you do? Call a halt to everything, like when the pandemic arrived? That’s impossible and makes no sense. We have to force ourselves to look forward and keep the faith, not only in hope but also in the beauty, colours, shapes and inspirations clearly evident in the latest shows. Rather than distinct, clear themes, these collections come up with a mixture of suggestions,…

variety hybrids minimalism maximalism sportswear gender fluid visible underwear unusual combinations layering crossover comfort oversize volumes cocoon shapes curtain effect structured tailoring knitwear comfortable blazers cargo pants zips jumpsuits trenches polo necks fringing artsy belted waist statement shoulders wide sleeves eco-fur feathers veiling geometry insets contrasting panels draping all over glossy effects Meaning ‘cultural mix’ or ‘hybridisation’, the fashion industry tends to use this term when a collection combines two or more seemingly distant and irreconcilable worlds or styles. Designers define it more simply as ‘freedom of interpretation’, and perhaps a ‘do what you like’ attitude is precisely what we need in the uncertain times we are currently going through. This is what Francesco Risso does for Marni: sending a series of ‘who cares’ looks out onto the runway in…

’20s/’30s romanticism mystery sensuality decadent glamour deconstruction total black metal masculine suits black leather enveloping shapes vertical silhouettes little veils dark glasses fetish details second skin jumpsuits patent frills flounces over the knee socks layering oversize volumes extra-long coats transparencies sequins tulle velvet unravelling hems studs crinolines collars floral prints balaclavas long gloves One all-black outfit does not automatically make a ‘dark’ trend, but it certainly helps, especially if the pieces in question are not evening looks but daywear styled with big dark glasses, little veils and fetish-style patent. As on the Blumarine runway, which was imbued with Helmut Newton’s spirit, from whom the creative director Nicola Brognano has drawn inspiration. And you cannot reference Newton without conjuring dark, sultry atmospheres, so the circle closes perfectly with these “glamorous vamps”…

sexy tailoring eroticism mini hemlines sinuous lines hourglass shapes lingerie bare legs suspender belts hold up stockings bustiers corsets Catwoman suits plunging necklines splits lace pirate boots mini-skirts ultra-short latex tight sheaths cinched waist crop tops transparencies low rise glossy surfaces over bare skin sinful red bare midriff fetish touches cut-outs micro down jackets jewelled details metallic sheen breastplates spike heels Everyone interprets ‘sexytude’ in their own way, because of course what is sexy for one person may not be for others. That said, one common denominator is bared flesh – stereotypical, perhaps, but that’s how it is. So, plenty of legs on show in tiny mini-skirts, but also low rise and hourglass shapes emphasising the waist and hips. It does not matter if these are virtual women, or women…

“Cosa ci facciamo qui, con la moda? Dovrei cancellare? Ma no: ho deciso che dobbiamo resistere”. Le parole di Demna Gvasalia, direttore creativo di Balenciaga, legatissimo all’Ucraina, quando da bambino si rifugiò a Odessa per scappare dalla guerra in Georgia, il suo Paese, riassumono un po’ il senso che hanno avuto queste ultime sfilate per i designer: resistenza, resilienza e sicuramente anche un po’ di esorcismo. Cosa fare, altrimenti? Fermare tutto di nuovo come dopo lo scoppio della pandemia? Impossibile e insensato. Bisogna sforzarsi di guardare avanti e mantenere fede, non solo nella speranza ma anche nella bellezza, di colori, forme, ispirazioni che sono state davvero tante su queste passerelle. Arduo infatti trovare una certa linearità, pochi temi distinti e ben definiti, piuttosto un ibrido di suggestioni, di incontri-scontri, non…

In italiano ‘meticciato, incrocio tra culture diverse’ ma anche ‘ibridazione’, nella moda si applica quando una collezione unisce due o più mondi ma anche stili apparentemente lontani e inconciliabili. I designer lo definiscono più semplicemente come ‘libertà di interpretazione’ e forse è ciò che ci vuole in un momento di totale sospensione e incertezza come quello che stiamo vivendo ovvero ‘fate un po’ come vi pare’. Ed è quello che fa Francesco Risso per Marni: mandare in passerella una serie di look ‘chi se ne frega’, in cui proporzioni over e rammendi dettano le regole su maglieria e sartoriale, mentre top e abiti sono seviziati da sfilacciature e le giacche finiscono attorcigliate sulla testa, in elaborati copricapo che sembrano preparatori a qualche rito arcano. Intende un po’ la stessa cosa…