SHOWDETAILS MILANO+PARIS+BEST BRANDS Fall - Winter 2019

Milan takes the form of a story. It writes, describes and rewrites on pages. The collections were film scripts, screenplays or scores for solo voices. Subject matters. Monologues. Stories. Fairy tales. Narratives. Words were stitched into fabrics as basting stitches, repairs and embroideries. Clothes were visual alphabets, material syllabaries, lyrical, poetic, filled with ideas, images and suggestions. Designers made their apparel statement, a reading-book of textile, spiritual and sartorial stimuli. Every artist named his or her work and every collection had a title or name entirely similar to an idea from a book, novel, film or concept album. Sounds grew on the runway. Distorted riffs. Guitar. Bass. Drums. The shows were a homage to music and to disorder. They presented the chaotic scores of an Elevated Grunge. Revealed piercings, studs,…

Milan looked to the nineties for a broad mix of influences. Changeable and dark sounds. Distorted riffs. Defined shoulders. Waist cinched by belts and chains. Hybridisations. Impure canons. Brocades and worn fabrics were mixed and matched, without any kind of style unity, elevating chaos to an aesthetic, cultural, musical and material model. Leather and velvet, tartan and patent: the combinations were anti-melodies on the guitar, bass, drums, unusual rhythms, hypnotic compositions. No frills, no fuss or technical artistry. The clothes were contemporary, gritty texts. Similar to post-grunge poetry. To new Nirvana references: “it’s fun to lose and to pretend”1. Nocturnal voices, tartan and vinyl notes were stitched by Alessandro Michele for Gucci. These were clothes forged for unresolved creatures. They wore masks on their faces and spiked studs around their…

Music and magic boxes. Treasure-troves. Jewellery boxes. Minute songbirds. Flowers, buds. Sweet melodies. The fashion show is an innocent, tender experience. A hymn to romanticism. A lullaby. An ode to childhood and femininity. Pale-skinned porcelain dolls walked for Vivetta. They wore lace, brocade, tulle and upholstery fabrics. They sparkled with crystal chandelier earrings and wide-brimmed hats decorated with pearls. They wore floral dresses, pussy bow blouses, ribbons, puff sleeves and plush bears. Poetic dreamers enveloped in embroidered satin pillowcases. Modigliani’s nostalgic women walked the runway at Antonio Marras. They were portraits of girls on a Sunday morning. Elegant and ethereal in their mended clothes and spliced together lace and brocades. Dotted with roses, foliage and silver buds. Their long necks were wrapped in wool. Their step unhurried. The collection was…

Far North. Polar aesthetic. A region without boundaries. Ocean surrounded by the lands of Europe, Asia and America. Latitude 66° 33’ 44’’ North. The Milan runways were glacial and reflective. Bright and crystallised. A new Pop Arctic Region. It shone with the colours of the aurora borealis. Optical phenomena with an earthly atmosphere rested on the clothes, on mini-dresses and structured trenches. Luminous bands, ranges of changing colours, magenta, intense green, yellow and sea blue. Auroral arcs. These were the reflections of Byblos: glacial, icy, dream-like. Outerwear was like a protective wrapping. Fox faux fur came in neon tints. The clothes were dotted with plastic crystals and fractal geometry. Iceberg relayed the fairy tales of the North with neon accessories, crystal-covered bodysuits, royal blue jumpsuits and glitch effects. The landscape…

Milano prende la forma del racconto. Aderisce alle pagine, scrive, descrive, riscrive. Le collezioni sono script cinematografici, sceneggiature, partiture per voci sole. Soggetti principali.Monologhi. Storie. Fiabe. Narrazioni. Le parole vengono cucite nei tessuti, sono imbastiture, rammendi, ricami. Gli abiti sono alfabeti visivi, sillabari materici, lirici, poetici, densi di idee, immagini, suggestioni. Stilisti e designer compongono il proprio testamento vestimentario, un abbecedario di stimoli tessili, spirituali e sartoriali. Ogni artista battezza la propria opera ed ogni collezione possiede un titolo, un nome, del tutto simile ad un’idea di libro, di romanzo, di pellicola, di concept album. Crescono i suoni in passerella.Riff distorti. Chitarra. Basso. Batteria. Il défilé annuncia un elogio alla musica e al disordine. Presenta i caotici spartiti di un Grunge Elevato. Rivela piercing, borchie, catene e lucchetti. Ostenta tessuti…

Milano guarda agli anni Novanta, miscela influenze eterogenee. Suoni mutevoli ed oscuri. Riff distorti. Spalle definite. Vita stretta da cinture e catene. Ibridazioni. Canoni impuri. Broccati e tessuti usurati si confondono, si mischiano, senza un’unità stilistica, elevando il caos a modello estetico, culturale, musicale, materico. Pelle e velluto, tartan e vernice: gli abbinamenti sono anti-melodie di chitarra, basso, batteria, ritmi inusuali, composizioni ipnotiche. Senza orpelli, senza fronzoli, né tecnicismi. Gli abiti sono testi contemporanei, graffianti. Simili in tutto a poesie post-grunge. A nuovi richiami dei Nirvana: “it’s fun to lose and to pretend”1. Voci notturne, note di scozzese e vinile vengono imbastite da Alessandro Michele per Gucci. Sono abiti forgiati per creature irrisolte. Portano maschere sul viso e borchie affilate al collo. Sono cupe, inaccessibili. Simili a spartiti occulti, capovolti.…