SHOWDETAILS MILANO+PARIS+BEST BRANDS Fall - Winter 2018

Milan: fusion, mingling, interaction. The genesis of a cultural, aesthetic, creative, intellectual melting pot. Molten rock and water. Velvet and crystals. The runway pulses, beats, thrums. It is filled with driving stimulation, volcanic forces, interpretations. Visual trajectories, streams of flair. Milan is immersed in the depths of the earth, launched into the world’s hot core. It quenches the thirst of its roots, its original lifeblood. But never stops looking to new horizons. The fascination for the Other creates a many-sided, faceted, new mosaic. Where encounters and dialogue between distant universes are possible, where opposites meet and gaps narrow. Past and future, East and West, presence and absence. Transversal universe without boundaries Real, imaginary, figurative. Stone and incandescence. Light and lithosphere. Allegories follow the movement of lava. They insinuate between silks…

When abstraction becomes material, when the invisible touches the visible, the runway pulses with references. These are allegories. Ancestral presences, lyrical and poetic, figurative. They invade silk and velvet, organza, veils. They take flight amongst prints, embroidery, intarsia. Clothes reverberate with the light of other metaphysical and profound worlds. Rhetorical figures caught in dialogue with the imperceptible. Signs, images, icons. Bringing messages, becoming oracles. Mind and body. Gucci is idea and substance. It is chimera and shine. It mixes floral blouses, bright tweed, crystals, neck scarves, sacred vestments. A fusion of symbols. Intuition for unknown alphabets: interpreting, expressing, combining, playing with references, allusions, visual synergies. Composing solemn, monumental works. Yet so changeable and faceted, multi-shaped and eclectic. Makers of new stories. Dolce & Gabbana is hyperbole and opulence. A contemporary,…

Prairies, vast plains. Milan looks westward. To America and its wide-open spaces. Farm women, new bohemians walk the runway. Descendants of ancient bards, discoverers, wandering singers. Wolf breeders, gold diggers, saloon girls. Investigating the depths, caves and caverns. Crossing the fields and clearings, drying their hair in the sun. Wearing earthy colours. Leaving footprints. Contemplating the purity and grace of nature. They wear loose, airy dresses in multicoloured floral patterns. They cover up with big sheepskin jackets and long scarves. They are custodians of wild things. Earth and wind intermingle in Etro’s poetry. Wool, leather, suede and shearling speak the language of mud and stone. Long dresses and tunics are as light and airy as the breeze across the heath. Tassels, fringes, paisley and art deco prints follow a folksy…

Wrappings, shields. Milan gets protective. Defensive pieces like body shields and screens. A protective instinct. Building a refuge, shaping a shelter. Averting danger. Isolating. Shaping new garments. Configuring, cutting, squaring. Forging cocoons, shells, sheaths, new armours, breast and back plates, blankets. Wrapping. Covering up. Dressing, coating, rescuing. Sheltering from the cold, from indifference, from hostility. Preserving from the risks of contemporary life, from the threats of the night, from the unknowns of tomorrow. Conserving. Guarding. Marni moulds ropes and vinyl. It configures rough, electric clothes. Primary, stiff, sharp. Futuristic and primitive trenches, elemental cloaks. Reflecting the light, cinching the waist, accentuating the shoulders. Defining and shielding the body. Covering it up, tying it up with rough ropes and metal buckles. Coating it with ancestral and original forces. Projected into the…

Milano: fusione, commistione, interazione. È la genesi di un magma culturale, estetico, creativo, intellettuale. Roccia fusa e acqua. Velluto e cristalli. La passerella palpita, batte, freme. È intrisa di stimoli propulsivi, forze vulcaniche, interpretazioni. Traiettorie visive, colate di estro. Milano si immerge nelle profondità della terra, si lancia fin dentro il nucleo caldo del mondo. Disseta le proprie radici, la linfa originaria. Ma non smette di protendersi verso nuovi orizzonti. È il fascino dell’Altro, è la creazione di un mosaico multiforme, sfaccettato, nuovo. Dove è possibile l’incontro, il dialogo tra universi distanti, dove si coniugano gli opposti, le lontananze si acquietano. Passato e futuro, oriente e occidente, presenza e assenza. Universo trasversale, senza confini. Reale, immaginario, immaginifico. Pietra e incandescenza. Luce e litosfera. Le Allegorie seguono i movimenti della lava.…

Quando l’astrazione si fa materia, quando l’invisibile tocca il visibile, la passerella vibra di richiami. Sono allegorie. Presenze ancestrali, liriche e poetiche, immaginifiche. Invadono sete e velluti, organze, veli. Si librano in volo, tra stampe, ricami, intarsi. Gli abiti riverberano della luce di altri mondi, metafisici e profondi. Sono figure retoriche, rapite in un dialogo con l’impercettibile. Segni, immagini, icone. Portano messaggi, si fanno oracoli. Spirito e corpo. Gucci è idea e sostanza. È chimera e bagliore. È miscela di bluse fiorite, tweed luminosi, cristalli, foulard, paramenti sacri. È fusione di simboli. È intuito per gli alfabeti sconosciuti: interpreta, esprime, combina, gioca con i rimandi, le allusioni, le sinergie visive. Compone opere ieratiche, monumentali. Eppure così mutevoli e sfaccettate, multiformi, eclettiche. Fattrici di nuovi racconti. Dolce & Gabbana è iperbole…