Innholdsfortegnelse for Fall - Winter 2018 i SHOWDETAILS MILANO+PARIS+BEST BRANDS

MILANO February 21, 2018 Brunello Cucinelli’s collection paid homage to the unique piece, craftsmanship skill, detail, and Italian craft. The care taken with materials, fibres, cashmere and mohair. An alchemy of textures and colours, an unconventional vision that brought together the legacy of tradition and opened it up to innovation. Velvet was soft, rich, corduroy, smooth, metallic, or opalescent. Surfaces came in softly reflective shades of antique pink, burgundy, sky blue and powder blue. For day and evening wear, in highwaist trousers, blazers, suits and sophisticated jumpsuits. Prince of Wales, tartan, lace and leather were combined in harmonious ways. Knitwear was the strong point of the collection. It came in intarsia clusters of different yarns, illuminated by sequins like bright lunar trails. Mesh effects, fur stitches, fringes and stripes played…

MILANO February 21, 2018 Fausto Puglisi’s winter collection is opulent. His clothes are a timeless elixir in which embellishments, prints, graphic details, nuances and materials tell a story of friezes and capitals. The results are epic. Greek fret designs edged silk dresses. Black and white patterns dominated on large cloaks, long scarves, ruffled asymmetric or A-line lampshade skirts and romantic linen dresses. Prints featured highly eye-catching labyrinthine series of segments. Mini-dresses were like gladiator armour in glossy reptile or with elegant linear intarsia. Maxi crystals and metallic decorations embellished the clothes. Roughly hewn stones in intense colours decorated the waist, adding natural beauty. Irregular colourways featured turquoise, pink and ink in futuristic geometry combinations on coats, similar to those seen on ancient and modern terracotta cases. È il richiamo dell’opulenza…

MILANO February 22, 2018 Manuel Facchini served up science with a rock soul: fractals and geometric motifs were developed and repeated in infinite schemes in different scales. Materials, clothes and the collection itself was shaped that way. Bombers had faceted mirror surfaces shaped like mathematical configurations. They came in quilted black leather and were dotted with studs. Teamed with mini-skirts decorated with gold zips or high-waist trousers with metallic studs. Dark oversize sweatshirts were brightened by abstract embellishments and sleeves shot through with shiny zips. Minidresses contained portions of vinyl, fringes, flounces, draping, and bright red sequins. They were very short and body-con, or asymmetric with steel lozenges. Long dresses wrapped the body in mesh, lace and gold lurex, and were trimmed with branded elastic for a sporty touch. The…

MILANO February 24, 2018 Global patchwork: Terre Alte weaves together style and evolution, travel and elegance. Going beyond pre-set limits and codes. Teaming cosmopolitan philosophy with a cutting-edge vision. Showing independence and femininity. Telling emotional tales. Going in search of new horizons and colours: the most rigorous black is teamed with antique pink, saffron, red and turquoise. Terre Alte chose a slogan to tackle the new season: “No mood is my mood”. It teams merino wool, felted fabrics and carded fibres. It pairs floral prints with monochrome colourways. It weaves an urban style with refinement. Romanticism meets understatement. Outerwear is total black and minimal with clean lines and defined volumes. Skirts are pleated and fluid or else pencil-tight. Knitwear was a key feature: cosy, light, ribbed, cable, with reliefs, fringes…

MILANO February 23, 2018 Natural beauty. Dream-like, light beauty: chiffon, tulle, marabou feathers. Tangible, solid beauty: broadcloth, shearling, cotton and lurex. This is Blumarine beauty, which belongs to free, intrepid and ethereal women. Beautiful, light and strong, shimmering and reflecting. Dew and frost. Every era seeks its own beauty and Anna Molinari brought her own take on spontaneous elegance to the runway – the kind that does not hide and is self-aware and pure. The dresses were full of femininity. Fluid and sleek to the ankle, they opened in splits and filled with impalpable printed rose-bushes. They featured feathers, iridescent fringes, metallic textures, delicate embroidered buds, lace and ruffles. White cloaks with fur collars, and long sheepskin coats and jackets protected the silhouette from the cold. Metallic shades, midnight blue…

MILANO February 25, 2018 Sacred maximalism, a liturgy of opulence. The Dolce & Gabbana show was an act of devotion. To fashion, style and glamour. To the sacredness of female beauty. It was a ceremony of lights, sequins, rhinestones, feathers and crystals. Every piece was consecrated in the light of reflections. The procession included coats with Byzantine crosses, bombers with little cherub’s wings, elegant clerical suits, cassock embroidery, intarsia skirts, altar-style brocades, golden vestments, cardinal crimson dresses, black veils, female pope hats, Madonnas, goblets, ex-voto offerings, rosary beads. Angels featured on sporty-chic pieces alongside pop elements such as lips, hearts, crowns, cartoons, images of plates, cutlery, teapots, animal patterns, zebra, giraffe and tiger. Prayers were slogans, maxi prints, embroideries on mini-dresses, sweatshirts, T-shirts, skirts and loose trousers: Santa Moda, Ora…

MILANO February 25, 2018 Emporio Armani’s show paid homage to spontaneous, fresh youth, to a generation that shuns tradition and mixes day and evening wear without distinction. A blend of elegance and comfort. Armani’s women walked in mini-skirts and shorts, covered in masculine coats and jackets, outerwear with asymmetric fasteners, bows at the waist, lurex and chiffon, velvet and innovative pinstripe. The colours were the changing tones of the sky, teamed with an intense black. Contrasting letters and numbers provided a sporty touch. The giant brand logo appeared on skirts and was repeated over glam faux fur. Evening wear featured feathers and vinyl, with dresses dotted with bright, geometric touches. There was grace and balance, in true Armani style, even in the shaded sparkles and mirror fabrics. A new kind…

MILANO February 22, 2018 Fighting spirit, feminine delicacy. Fendi dedicates its collection to a sweet yet gutsy woman who is not afraid of stealing clothes from the men. Silvia Venturini Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld explored the archives, opened old boxes in the atelier and proposed a reworking of the brand’s heritage. Severe shapes, sharp shoulders and references to the eighties were embellished and given more lightness. Coats came in bright Prince of Wales. The double-F print shone on plastic-coated trenches. Sweatshirts featured the iconic logo in soft fur. Military inspiration embraced romanticism: uniforms had white collars and midi length skirts had splits and pleats. The sensitivity of the female soul was expressed in all the shades of white, navy blue, musk green and beige, in precious intarsia furs, long dresses…

MILANO February 24, 2018 The show was staged in the heart of the city. The Iceberg collection was fun and unconventional. Creative director James Long showed off the brand’s Made in Italy credentials. He found logos in the archive and enlarged them to such an extent that they became the main focus. Big letters played with fabrics, broke up stripes, provided colour and intarsia. The mood was witty and ironic. Mickey Mouse was reworked into sporty staples, such as oversize down jackets with innovative cuts and shapes. The spirit was urban and the attitude street: velvet tracksuits, jeans with lettering and patches, leather mini-skirts, knitwear with diagonal intarsia, contrasting finishes, dashes of colour in bright red, primary yellow, optical blue and ink black. This was fashion for a fun and…

MILANO February 25, 2018 Electric, elemental. Atavistic. Futuristic. A new archetype is taking shape in Marni’s name. It is a hybrid of exhibition and protection. Its colours and shapes are primary. The most intense tones - glossy royal blue, fuchsia, red, emerald - were used for vinyl jackets, stiff trenches, flared or tubular skirts. These were bold, crude tints. Shaped volumes accentuated the waistline and added definition to the shoulders. Unadorned pieces were cut into sharp shapes. Later the clothes became softer and moulded more to the body. Long knits, capes and loose cloaks like blankets, asymmetric, draping body-con dresses. They featured shiny sequins and bright graphic details, cat eyes, stripes and checks. Francesco Risso for Marni created ancestral clothes for a tribe of women destined to wear feathers as…

MILANO February 21, 2018 Moschino went to Area 51 with its latest Stars from the Stars collection. A parade of Jacqueline Kennedys took to the runway in brightly-coloured skirtsuits and bon-ton hats. Fifties-feel boxy jackets and mini-skirts came in bold orange, apple green, purple and sea blue. Sheaths featured irreverent patterns, iconic zips, black leather edges and a belted waist. Pop dresses sported advertising images, faces, sweets and drug labels illustrated by artist Ben Frost. Jeremy Scott’s Technicolor women were so perfect, they could not be human. Indeed, they were aliens. Their skin was painted blue and their clothes had opalescent surfaces and space-like textures. The tone for the evening wear was more Marilyn Monroe: mermaid dresses with spliced dinner jackets came in sparkling satin with zigzag, draped edges. Crystals…

MILANO February 24, 2018 Silk and charcoal. Denim and the westerly wind. This is the new spirit of Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini, which showcased the American dream between Aspen, Wichita and New Mexico. The show had a western vibe with its all-denim looks, shearling jackets and suede fringes. But there were also airy, impalpable pieces. These reflected the clear, brisk winds of the vast open prairies and plains. Nature and purity were expressed in silk and chiffon dresses with romantically gathered collars, light flounces, ruffles, transparent white lace, tulle, polka dots, delicate prints of buds, flowers and pastel colours. The deeper, darker side of the land also featured: there were sophisticated gold-diggers in puckered velvet suits, smoke-coloured knitwear filled with the dark shadows of rocks and mines, with flashes of…

MILANO February 24, 2018 Salvatore Ferragamo directed an orchestra of premium materials – silk, chiffon, satin, leather, suede and velvet. They came in a melody of intense colours such as green, caramel, burgundy, sand, indigo and powder pink. The brand composed a fluid, elegant aria. Paul Andrew, as the brand’s new ready-to-wear creative director, focused on purity of form. Clean, flared and elongated lines. Never excessive. The silhouettes were sharp and outerwear was a key element. Calfskin coats were lined in neck scarf prints. Suede trenches came in emerald green or merlot red. Loose cloaks, rain capes, blazers and bombers followed an ideal of rigour and cleanness. Short and long fluid dresses in silk and velvet had plenty of grace and measure. Stiff collars left the shoulders bare. The waistline…

MILANO February 25, 2018 Tommy Hilfiger chose speed and the thrill of competition. The runway was turned into a Formula One racecourse. The models were gutsy female drivers and motorcyclists. They wore oversize mechanic’s overalls, jumpsuits and dungarees, chequered-flag swimsuits, super-slim racing leather trousers in electric colours and styles. Biker jackets were cropped and given sharp lines, stiff shoulders and tight sleeves. Bombers were covered with zips and patches. Tops were teamed with wide-leg sweatpants. There were plenty of casual touches such as printed T-shirts, irregularly cut shirts, unexpected stripes, minute and ironic prints. The Tommy Hilfiger logo was printed in new graphics all over denim overalls. The palette included all the colours of the American flag - red, white and blue with touches of black, sea blue, green and…

NEW YORK February 9, 2018 BCBGMAXAZRIA returned to presenting its collections in a live show. This is the second collection by Bernd Kroeber, who has worked for the brand since 2007 and knows its style code well, summing it up in the show’s title, ‘Rough Glamour’. It was a blend of romantic and modern, feminine and masculine, with the addition of a bohemian touch - another of BCBG’s signature traits. This came through in robust outerwear, such as silver parkas, overcoats and biker jackets and lace asymmetric dresses that created an eyecatching contrast between structured, solid shapes and ethereal gathers at the collar and sleeves. There were also fluid shirt-dresses and robe dresses worn with over-the-knee boots, military-style coats and masculine suits, and elegant flounced and pleated dresses. BCBGMAXAZRIA torna…

NEW YORK February 12, 2018 “I remember my mother making clothes from scraps of fabric. I think that idea of turning discarded materials into something beautiful really speaks to the immigrant experience.” Phillip Lim’s words expressed the spirit of this new collection, which was built around an elongated, nomadic silhouette made up of layering and assemblies of materials that also affected the volumes and proportions. Lots of knit was used for dresses worn over a turtleneck and patchwork skirts paired with fluid blouses, which were also made of a mix of materials. Long tiered skirts and gypsydresses emerged from under oversize masculine jackets and sweaters of various sizes, while the finale’s asymmetric dresses were made up of floral and paisley patterns. “Ricordo che mia madre faceva vestiti con pezzi di…

NEW YORK February 13, 2018 It seems this will be Jason Wu’s swan song collection for Boss. The German brand has benefited for five years from the designer’s pretty, feminine dresses, such as the long, fluid satin frocks on the runway in this show. They were alternated with masculine looks made up of loose darted trousers paired with a turtleneck or shirt with threads unravelling from the chest and cuffs, while coats were long and tight-fitting with solid shoulders. Some of the outerwear had sporty touches and a pair of trousers had a contrasting side stripe, while a zipped knit collar featured in several looks including a sinuous checked dress with split. Pare che questo sia il canto del cigno per Jason Wu da Boss ovvero la sua ultima collezione;…

NEW YORK February 12, 2018 Carolina Herrera is leaving her role as creative director. It was announced before her final show, held at the Museum of Modern Art, that she would be moving into an ambassadorial role and making room for her right-hand man, Wes Gordon. The collection perfectly summed up the Herrera codes of timeless elegance and bon-ton that does not need sweatshirts and side bands to gain a following. The focus was on one of her classics, the white shirt, which opened the show paired with a black skirt and loose black trousers, and returned in the finale teamed with extra-long pleated skirts with a wide belt in an array of different colours. The rest were mainly midi or long cocktail or evening dresses embellished with feathers and…

NEW YORK February 9, 2018 The focus was on decoration for the new collection from Jason Wu, who said he was struck by the work of industrial designers Ettore Sottsass and Michele De Lucchi with Swarovski crystals. Myriad crystals were sewn onto jumpers, veiled skirts and dresses accompanied by another motif which Wu took from Mariano Fortuny, the Spanish-born and Italian-adopted artist and designer. He developed a technique for finely pleating silk, giving it an almost crumpled appearance, and the designer used it here for midi length skirts, cropped tops, coats and as a crossover detail over the bust and midriff. It made for a strong contrast when paired with masculine pieces such as blazers and shirts worn over a tight turtleneck. Focus sulle decorazioni per la nuova collezione di…

NEW YORK February 14, 2018 It has already been said that sportswear may soon be making an appearance on the red carpet. Michael Kors gave us proof of that with Joan Smalls closing the show in a numbered T-shirt (19) over black sequinned trousers and fur slippers. It was a look that spoke of the current times, of the mix & match that today’s youth likes. It featured throughout the collection in a continuous play of disparate but eye-catching combinations, like the vintage-style tracksuit with a camel coat and leopard stole, slip or prairie dresses worn with combat boots, military pieces with lace skirts, sporty knits with eco-fur, tartan with camouflage or floral. The looks were complemented with patchwork hats, handbags to match the clothes and maxi scarves in various…

NEW YORK February 10, 2018 Philipp Plein put on another glaring, multimillion dollar show that his audience is no doubt accustomed to but which was perhaps a little over-the-top. After seeing a bulldozer plough through a wall of foil boulders, a robot and then a UFO, the clothes finally arrived onto the snow-covered runway. If you have not yet grasped the atmosphere the designer was going for, this was a sci-fi themed event in which futuristic clothing mixed with ski and snowboard apparel, including furry Moon Boots. There were lots of jumpsuits, some padded, with multi branded straps outlining the quilting on sleeves, waist and legs, other ultra-tight Catwoman suits, zipped and decorated with mini-crystals or worn with overcoats in transparent plastic or with contrasting silver insets. The outerwear was…

NEW YORK February 9, 2018 Tory Burch staged her show in a paradisiacal oasis of pink carnations and turf, continuing to further slim down her aesthetic from last season. The designer drew inspiration from Lee Radziwill, the sister of Jackie Kennedy Onassis, and her memoir ‘Happy Times’. A key society figure for over half a century, Radziwill perfectly embodies the bright, delicate style of fluid dresses with lush, painterly floral prints, alternated with virginal lace and tulle layers, worn on their own or paired with an oversize parka with fur interior and a structured blazer to highlight the contrast between masculine and feminine or, rather, effeminate. The collection continued in the same vein, with solid outerwear over ethereal looks with a Seventies twist. In una paradisiaca oasi di garofani rosa…

MILANO SHOWROOMS BALLY Tel. +39-0258411112 www.bally.it BRUNELLO CUCINELLI Tel. +39-075697071 cucinelli@brunellocucinelli.it www.brunellocucinelli.it CAPUCCI Tel. +39-0276394399 info@capucci.eu www.capucci.eu DONDUP Tel. +39-02277231 info@dondup.com www.dondup.com FAUSTO PUGLISI info@faustopuglisi.com www.faustopuglisi.com LORO PIANA Tel. +39-0163201111 www.loropiana.com MAJOR GIOVANNI ALLEGRI info@majorgiovanniallegri.com www.majorgiovanniallegri.com MANUEL FACCHINI info@11srl.com www.manuelfacchini.com ROSSELLA JARDINI info@rossellajardini.com www.rossellajardini.com SHIRTAPORTER Tel. +39-0457570591 info@shirtaporter.com www.shirtaporter.com TERRE ALTE Tel. +39-0541743658 info@terrealte.net www.terrealte.net MILANO CATWALKS ALBERTA FERRETTI Tel. +39-0276003095 info@aeffe.com www.albertaferretti.com ANTONIO MARRAS Tel. +39-0289075001 info@antoniomarras.it www.antoniomarras.it BLUMARINE Tel. +39-059637511 blufin@blufin.it www.blufin.it CRISTIANO BURANI Tel. +39-0596550415 bdesignsrl@live.it www.cristianoburani.it DAMIR DOMA info@damirdoma.com www.damirdoma.com DOLCE & GABBANA Tel. +39-02774271 www.dolcegabbana.com DSQUARED2 Tel. +39-0242297890 www.dsquared2.com EMILIO PUCCI Tel. +39-02885821 www.emiliopucci.com EMPORIO ARMANI Tel. +39-02723181 www.armani.com ERMANNO SCERVINO Tel. +39-05564924 info@ermannoscervino.it www.ermannoscervino.com ETRO Tel. +39-0257931 info@etro.com www.etro.com FENDI Tel. +39-06334501 www.fendi.com GIORGIO ARMANI Tel. +39-02723181 www.armani.com GUCCI Tel. +39-055264011 info@gucci.it www.gucci.com ICEBERG…

MILANO February 23, 2018 Sixties Rome. The atmosphere of the Piper Club comes to life in the Capucci collection. The winter season has bold colours - aqua green, fuchsia, peony, lime green - and an evocative title: “Opera Beat”. Suits embrace a pastel palette, but also have a gutsy, eye-catching spirit thanks to shuttle-woven, tartan, check, and houndstooth insets. Capucci skilfully directs the synergies and contrasts: jackets have precious whirls, redundant flounces, ruffles, 3D intarsia; trenches and bombers have masculine lines but also delicate reliefs and origami techniques. Light silk and cashmere knitwear resembles a fabric. Trapeze dresses have A lines. For the evening, impalpable chiffon features lace intarsia, micro plissé, and laser origami in double-face lace. The collection lies between past and present, between experimentation and tradition - a…

MILANO February 22, 2018 Loro Piana challenged the winter season with a balanced, flawless aesthetic that embraced creativity and research, elegance and wearability. Premium yarns and exceptional raw materials are the hallmarks of this brand, which proposed classic with a twist suitable for contemporary living. The alpaca and cashmere pieces were sophisticated and soft, with a youthful, sporty attitude. Cloaks had soft ribbed lapels, metal buckle fasteners and contrasting stripes along the edges. Jumpers, turtlenecks and pleated skirts were edged in intense shades of earthenware, blue and rust. More rigorous jackets were styled with striped shirts, two-colour knitted tops and loose trousers. Denim, lined with white fur, gave a casual beauty to the most refined outerwear. The palette featured neutral tones and pure whites, pastel colours, touches of intense green…

MILANO February 24, 2018 Rossella Jardini’s woman is romantic and eccentric in an infinite metamorphosis. Reworked military jackets, field jackets, trenches and coats had a craftsmanship feel, giving the pieces a bit of history. Vintage neck scarves, retrieved passementerie, vintage lace, golden tassels, touches of fur, eyelets, and regimental crests made up an original, hyper-feminine fresco. Outerwear became a means of expression, featuring basket weave-effect ribbons, metal buttons, golden tassels, and white pearls. Follow me was marked out in glossy red cord on the back of a jacket, inviting the onlooker to follow this unique, inimitable, casual and chic style. Pleated skirts, white shirts and big bows at the neck completed the look. The colour palette included camouflage green, khaki, crimson and navy blue. These were contemporary heroines with a…

MILANO February 21, 2018 Alberta Ferretti offered a sensual, dark soul for a strong, confident woman. The result was more bewitching, less ethereal and more seductive than her customary collections. Charismatic and free - perfectly interpreting the current times. Black leather, denim and silk were the main materials, accompanied by evocative, nocturnal elements packed with charm and mystery. Denim jumpsuits, studded hats, gaucho trousers, feather bombers, oversize cloaks, nude look shirts, glossy mini-dresses. The belts, buckles, high waist and big shoulders gave an eighties feel to the show. Evening wear featured the first glimmers of dawn, bright transparencies, and black organza tinged with metallic reflections. Mini-dresses were embellished with big silver sequins. Long, impalpable evening dresses were shot through with gold. Studs marked out edges and contours to draw attention…

MILANO February 25, 2018 Latex, vinyl, provocative images: the “Fetish Athleisure” displayed at the Cristiano Burani show was an intriguing mix of bold tints. Using experimentation and research, the collection heightened the sense of touch. It was a total material experience featuring raised effects and extra-smooth surfaces: menswear woollens, polyurethane rubber-coating, needlepunched denim, embroidered silk tulle, strips of calendered and python chiffon, laminated leather, glossy polyester jersey. The pieces played with images and imaginations. Maxi bombers and pencil skirts came in matt latex and were covered with “Erotika” prints. Sportier pieces bore plastic-coated “Sex Stoned” appliqués. Shoulders were exaggeratedly oversize. Knitwear was sinuous and threedimensional. Rubbery, vivid colours included watermelon, vermilion and neon orange. This is how Cristiano Burani defines the new femininity, with erotic obsessions, sporty aspects, active contaminations…

MILANO January 14, 2018 Dean and Dan Caten took us to the canyons and saloons of the West. Dsquared2 showcased a cowgirl with a bohemian side. She wore elongated parkas, ripped jeans, reworked dress coats with balloon slee ves, country embellishments and long fringes at the cuffs. Two-colour sheepskin paired with tapered leather trousers were fit for herds and prairies. Shirts featured pony skin-effect insets, with rose bud or tartan prints in bold colours. Knitwear was playful and ironic: intarsia, black and white rustic knits, galloping horses with ruffled manes. Airy white dresses were worn with bright sequinned leggings and a bandana around the neck. The Dsquared2 woman is courageous and untamed yet gains a new romanticism when wearing floral slip dresses layered under sheepskin and fur and accessorised with…

MILANO February 24, 2018 Two words summed up Ermanno Scervino’s winter show: preciseness and purity. The brand’s iconic pieces celebrating Made in Italy excellence were reworked with a contemporary touch. Layering became the mantra. Soft sweaters were worn over sharp coats in camel, powder pink, smoke and navy blue. A poplin shirt collar peeped out from under a fur lapel on a masculine coat. The shapes were elongated, linear and sharp. The collection had a sober precision but also a purity, suspended between delicacy and femininity. Knitwear shone and sparkled, covered with Swarovski crystals and teamed with airy silk skirts. Lace sheaths and slip dresses were fluid and sleek. The evening dresses fluttered in different lengths with ruches and whirls of silk organza in shades of white and pink. Due…

MILANO February 24, 2018 Giorgio Armani’s vision is poetic and harmonious. It tells of a universe without barriers, rich in resonances and cultures mixing and merging to form a unique, nuanced style. The knot was used here as a uniting element of strength. It tied turbans, flaps of fabric and enhanced necklines. Skirts and dresses were tied at the bottom hem in a dynamic, innovative touch. Jackets were shortened or elongated, in faux fur, printed with fusions of colours, designed with little stud motifs, sparkling with crystals, sequins or bright fringes. Long skirts were in velvet and edged with feathers, or else short, bubble style. Dresses featured tulip blossoms in a symphony of colours. For the evening, the silhouette came veiled in transparencies and embroidery. The palette was a melody…

MILANO February 24, 2018 The future is candour and artificial intelligence. It is soft, warm and enveloping. It requires protection and sensitivity. Jil Sander paved the way for it in this collection. The brand moulded all the shades of white. Minimal, understated clothes ruffled and billowed around the body in a tactile dance. The clothes came in woolly cotton and silk. They had the consistency, craftsmanship and flawless tailoring of premium materials. Pieces featured asymmetric hemlines, rounded shoulders and airy volumes. Coats were loose, monochrome, pale or dark, with jacquard lavender flowers. Ribbed dresses fell irregularly, creating a gather of red or grey fabric around the body. Jackets had very long sleeves tightened by a strip of fabric around the upper arms. Soft wraps and stoles enveloped the shoulders like…

MILANO February 22, 2018 Max Mara is recalibrating its style canons. For its latest collection, it mixed power dressing with rock and added punk elements, classic touches and Eighties influences. The winter show reflected the synergy between culture and counter-culture, and the merging of business with the underground. No more boundaries. Max Mara’s DNA has not changed but is being redefined and influenced. The iconic Teddy Bear coat gained fringes, dappled textures and gardenia pink nuances. Tailored linear jackets were paired with immense check skirts in cosy mohair. The volumes varied in shape and length: ultra-slim trousers, pencil skirts, embossed dresses, trenches and shirts - everything was in black leather. Leopard prints were teamed with Prince of Wales and faux fur. T-shirts featured illustrations by François Berthoud. The palette had…

MILANO February 25, 2018 MSGM celebrates Milan. Massimo Giorgetti’s latest show featured all the symbols and icons of his adopted home. It was a love letter to the city’s history and aesthetic. The style was markedly metropolitan with touches of streetwear and athleisure. Sweatshirts were printed with a portrait of Alessandro Manzoni, showing his face and his name written in scarlet red. Scarves were covered with the signs of local Milanese venues such as Basso, Cucchi, and Jamaica. Tracksuits were oversize and in bold tints with intense sweeps of colour. Black silk blouses were dark and mysterious. Suits with boxy, masculine lines were brightened by reflections from leather, vinyl and crocodile in shades of crimson, vermilion and lipstick pink. Later in the show, the lines became more fluid thanks to…

MILANO February 22, 2018 Facing the night is a political act. Prada’s women walked the black-mirrored runway wrapped in darkness. The collection was an abyss of dissonance, at times violent, a cry of strength and femininity. The outerwear came in the form of cleanly-shaped square shields made from artificial, technical, industrial materials such as nylon, PVC and neoprene. They were oversize, padded and rainproof. The body was covered and enveloped in bustier dresses, fluorescent slip dresses, armours of fringing and sequins. Tulle was a key element in conveying fragility and hardness: a veil that provided protection. A sheer body shield with asymmetric, irregular hemlines, a light yet strong consistency, a shell with a bow around the neck. Digital prints depicted darkness illuminated by neon, iridescent beams and warning lights. This…

MILANO February 23, 2018 Sportmax took the slopes to the city. The collection was energetic, athletic and dynamic. Ski apparel found new light on the runway in a mixture of materials and visions. There were plenty of graphic details, linear colours, zips, strings and ties. High-tech materials came in new combinations, alongside menswear fabrics, silk and knitwear. This was the urban side of the sporty spirit. Dresses were sporty and tight with turtleneck collars, colour-block intarsia and luminescent details. Coats, bombers and oversize down jackets came in neon colours. Blazers, gilets and skirts in traditional fabrics featured technical insets and played with volumes and layering. Knitwear added movement to the silhouette, featuring in biascut jacquard dresses and soft mohair in a yellow and navy jumper. Prints featured images of skiers.…

MILANO February 23, 2018 Donatella Versace’s women are brazen queens of style. Energetic, determined, free and independent. They defy the tedium of bonton, the greyness of convention. In this show, they walked on studded five-inch heels in vinyl trenches. Black leather was the order of the day. Broad-shouldered silhouettes referenced the Eighties, Nineties and Noughties. These were transgressive, punk heroines. Tartan exploded in this collection, exploring unexpected colours. It appeared on basic pieces and on minis, tulip, pleated and split skirts. Fringes, chains, buckles and studs were the real protagonists on the clothes. Archive elements celebrated Versace’s history and were renewed. Colourful, showy scarves bore the giant letter of the brand. Logo T-shirts were cinched by bustiers and paired with printed skirts in neon colours. The leitmotiv of the collection…

NEW YORK February 7, 2018 Why not look to the past? Escada has a rich one! Niall Sloan, the new creative director at the German brand, who worked for ten years alongside Christopher Bailey at Burberry and then at Hunter, did just that. After some time sifting through the archives, Sloan decided to reconnect with the Escada spirit in its heyday between the ’80s and the ’90s, which chimes perfectly with the current trends. First he fished out the logo and proposed it in big Warholian letters on T-shirts and on an extra-long cardigan, which can also be worn as a minidress. Then he focused on tailoring, a speciality of both Sloan and the brand, offering clean, rather slim cuts and gold buttons from the archive running down (and opening…

NEW YORK February 10, 2018 The 21st floor of Four Times Square, Condé Nast’s old headquarters, was the site of Alexander Wang’s show and the place the designer began his career as an intern. But this choice was not so much about returning to his roots as it was about “asserting the seriousness of his intentions”, which are about wanting to dress like a CEO even when you aren’t one. This was clear to see in the ‘CEO 2018’ silver lettering on a white shirt worn with a turtleneck and branded black leggings. Branding and lettering were a constant feature throughout the show, contrasting on leggings, track pants, jumpsuits and the elastics of underwear. Less informal looks, such as blazer-dresses and sheaths shot through with zips that formed handcuff-shaped pockets,…

NEW YORK February 9, 2018 At a time when New York fashion week is in the midst of an identity crisis, with designers leaving for Paris and others opting for studio appointments rather than a formal show, Tomas Maier for Bottega Veneta arrived from Milan and celebrated the daring, courageous spirit of the Big Apple and its inhabitants. His collection paid homage to the city and its skyline with decorative motifs not printed but hand-embroidered, as seen on the multicoloured wool dresses inspired by the grillwork found in the city’s elevators. There were fluid silk pyjamas worn with long wraparound coats, long silk velvet dresses with or without sleeves, masculine suits in bright colours and other dresses featuring intarsia and appliqués that highlighted the craft and precious fabrics. In un…

NEW YORK February 10, 2018 ‘Yes, this is me’; the title of the new Custo Barcelona collection is a clear declaration of a woman freely expressing herself and her personality in a day-to-day setting through her wardrobe. The clothes came in various lengths and featured asymmetry, cut-outs and splits, as well as the brand’s signature patchwork of materials including fine silk, glossy nylon, lace and jacquard knit. It was a rich, varied ensemble with plenty of bright metallics seen in the silver, gold and copper used for outerwear, parkas and oversize overcoats, also created with assemblies of fabrics and, in some cases, made from deconstructed jackets. Another key element was layered technical materials handfinished with appliqués, metallic passementerie, embroidery and feathers. ‘Yes, this is me’; il titolo della nuova collezione…

NEW YORK February 8, 2018 Fluorescence, neon colours, colourful bobbed wigs as worn by Milla Jovovich in ‘The Fifth Element’, Jeremy Scott showcased a stroboscopic sci-fi movie in which the clothes worn by his ‘dolls’ nodded to ’80s disco. With the designer’s usual irony, most notably in the thigh-high Moon Boots worn with hot pants and mini-dresses in transparent PVC featuring technical belts and straps, while knit outfits had braces and harnesses that resembled safety belts, which also decorated sleeves and mini-skirts. One recurring piece was a sporty cropped top, the top half of which resembled a sweatshirt and the bottom half a bustier bra, paired with tonal skirts and track pants. Graphic details, fluffy pompoms, cartoon prints and pixel patterns added to the whirl of colour and decoration. Fluorescenze,…

NEW YORK February 7, 2018 Narciso Rodriguez could never show a collection of sporty sweatshirts and trousers because it would be too far from his style, but the athletic trend is too strong to ignore completely. He put his own take on it, adding a minimal chic touch and fluid lines, in which dresses, blouses and coats had rounded, loose sleeves and soft skirts and trousers tapered at the bottom. Many of the looks featured a tight turtleneck layered under the rest of the clothes, while vertical or oblique bands crossed the surfaces adding a sporty edge. Basic tones, mainly black and white, were interspersed by splashes of fuchsia, orangey-red and petrol green. Narciso Rodriguez non potrebbe mai far sfilare felpe e pantaloni sportivi perché sarebbero troppo distanti dal suo…

NEW YORK February 12, 2018 In this ‘see now, buy now’ collection, Ralph Lauren celebrated Jamaica, an ideal escape destination. The holiday mood had the models walking barefoot, or in Wellington boots in case of rain, and summer dresses, sundresses with or without straps and shirt-dresses with belted waist. Red, white and blue sailor motifs and colours decorated blazers, knits, shorts and rain jackets, but also appeared on cocktail dresses and elegant long dresses in primary colours inspired by yacht sails, which could take sportswear all the way to the red carpet. Con la collaudata formula del ‘see now, buy now’ Ralph Lauren fa sfilare una collezione che celebra la Giamaica, una meta ideale per una fuga ideale. Piena atmosfera vacanziera quindi, con le modelle che camminano a piedi nudi…

NEW YORK February 11, 2018 Every time Victoria Beckham releases a new collection, people immediately begin to compare it to the body-hugging jersey sheaths in her launch. A decade has passed since then, but if there is one thing Beckham has kept it is her clothes’ adaptability to the body, focusing mainly on tailoring and on that sporty touch that has invaded recent runways. A series of coats, some of which were doubled, came in military styles and colours with wide belts accentuating the waist and masculine suits with more military style jackets, at times topped off with a detachable leather neck-warmer. Trousers tapered to the calf with turn-ups while leggings had stirrups, and the addition of leather leg warmers in some looks. Dresses were long and asymmetrically pleated. Ogni…

MILANO February 24, 2018 Origins, Switzerland. Outbound and return journeys. New beginnings. The Bally collection is about a journey, nostalgia and a desire for discovery. It was presented in a film directed by Baillie Walsh and entitled “Every ending is a new beginning”. Its most expressive side is youthful, fresh and tinged with the Seventies. It has a romantic, sporty style: an oversize white down jacket is covered in jumbo corduroy. Big hoods, tone on tone zips and striped elastic gave the clothes a more urban, eye-catching look. Layering and mixed materials created synergies of leather, suede, wool, cotton and sheepskin. The lines were fluid with loose, flared trousers and all-over prints featured the indefatigable traveller, the carrier pigeon. Fur coats were multi-coloured or in bright solids. The palette came…

MILANO February 23, 2018 Boxing turned glamorous at Dondup. The boxer’s robe became soft and chic. It came in fur edged with blue and white bands and had the brand logo on the back. Class and competitiveness came into the ring to play with combinations. Sporty vermilion sweaters were paired with fluid, pink, floral skirts. A white T-shirt gained some charm when teamed with a burgundy tweed mini-skirt. A parka had a soft dappled rabbit fur collar and broadcloth sleeves. The bomber reflected the urban blend of casual and refined with its quilted velvet and stud decoration. The trench coat was plastic-coated and worn over a sheer, sparkling slip dress. Denim, leather and shearling added a rockabilly element in shades of vermilion, turquoise, cognac and black. Every piece had a…

MILANO February 24, 2018 Trenches, bombers, parkas, pea coats, biker jackets, coats: outerwear was the focus in the Major Giovanni Allegri collection. Iconic pieces were renewed and contaminated by new research into materials, between craftsmanship tradition and technological innovation. The fabrics were sculptural: 3D jacquard, raised bouclé yarns, raw cut boiled wool, vitrified wool, velvet, woven organza and cotton and macro designs. The volumes were geometric and rigorous, giving the collection a strong architectural feel. Shoulders were defined and hemlines emphasised. Every element spoke the language of urban luxury: quality tailoring, attention to detail, exclusive accessories. Layering was also a key feature: linings were detachable, versatile, interchangeable, ready to be added to or removed from the outer layer. This new style came in nocturnal and natural tints of ivory and…

MILANO February 25, 2018 Errant, nomadic, drifting. This is the Shirtaporter woman. She knows her way through the interstellar routes of the universe. She crosses time and space to celestial orbits. She wears symbols, stars, satellites and constellations. She captures the influx of Saturn. Her dream-like, galactic, cosmic, astral prints are enchanting and hypnotic. She is a woman full of light, from herself and from others. Surfaces are iridescent, festooned with sequins and crystals and shimmering reflections. Skirts are flared and airy, with lace intarsia, plissé and intense colours. Objects unencumbered by gravity slide over blouses, between neck-scarf prints and images of whistles, skates, trophies and tennis rackets. There are also stripes, lozenges, checks and tartan for sportier, more urban looks. Fur and velvet reverberate with a thick air of…

MILANO February 23, 2018 Antonio Marras chose to tell a story. The emotional climate for the new season came in sealing wax red and anthracite. Following his own personal alphabet, the designer offered an imaginary journey, a story of migration. Romantic protagonists paraded in floral dresses in burnt-out velvet, with layers of tulle and lace, draping and white lapels. This was a femininity filled with hope. The clothes were imbued with memories, the more austere fabrics were brightened with fiery red flashes and masculine elements migrated into the more feminine pieces. Prince of Wales was embellished with embroidery. Knitwear, borrowed from the ancestors, featured intarsia lace. The American dream was expressed in sweatshirts with college-style lettering. It was an allegory for a journey that had ethereal creatures in dreamy dresses…

MILANO February 22, 2018 Femininity is urban. It contains contrasts and connections. Damir Doma moulded rigour and athleisure with a nomadic spirit and simplicity. He chose clean, sinuous shapes. Minimalism with a few more curves. Fluid, fuss-free monochrome dresses gained a new dynamism with yellow-trimmed ruffles. Doubleface wraparound skirts revealed loose splits and light draping. Bright shirt-dresses featured draped and knotted fabric over the chest in an eye-catching touch. The combinations created colour synergies, pairing different textures, tartan and check, striped fabrics and neck scarf prints. Tailored blazers and skirts added a refined touch to the more athletic looks, revealing the variability within sporty elegant dressing. Knitwear nodded to a nomadic style thanks to cosy cardigans with hanging threads. The collection featured bright vermilion, lobster and electric blue tints for…

MILANO February 22, 2018 Colour and seduction are the style codes for Emilio Pucci’s winter. Archive elements blended with contemporary visions in intense colours, including sporty touches and lingerie pieces, with a nod to the American jet set of the fifties. It was a magnetic dance of volumes, pigments and new shapes. Doubleface coats had wide lapels in ultramarine and purple. The brand’s signature prints gave a light allure to oversize down jackets. They provided waves of colour on loose quilted jackets. Glossy encrustations on sequinned and crystal-covered dresses. Delicate details, edges, collars and cuffs on fluid solid colour tunics. There were also references to Marilyn Monroe on the runway: loose skirts, sheer blouses and belted waist. But the slip dress was the key piece in the collection: printed, intarsia’d…

MILANO February 23, 2018 Etro looked towards the West. To Patagonia, Peru and the Navajo. With a touch of art deco as well. The brand amalgamated earth and material, mud and geometry. It created, mixed and left the result to settle. What came out of it was a show packed with inspiration. The colours of the endless South American plains, prairies and steppes. The craftsmanship earthiness of woollens, leathers, suede, shearling and denim. The evanescence of the winds over the heath, of silk and chiffon, fluid dresses and light tunics. Cosy cloaks, immense shawls, capes, ponchos, jackets, wraparound coats featured bohemian textures, fringes and tassels. The prints, designed, placed and moulded with mathematical precision, were included on each piece in an injection of geometry: art deco motifs, jagged paisley, checks,…

MILANO February 21, 2018 Allegory, from the Greek ἀλλή, meaning “other” and ἀγορεύω, “speaking”. Alessandro Michele’s is definitely another kind of speaking; a language thick with symbols, a whole new philosophy. It is a story told through multiple voices, which finds its melody in the notes of the Stabat Mater. A lyrical, eccentric, singular atmosphere. Multiple identities, chimeric creatures and post-humans paraded amongst operating tables and surgical lights. Some held replicas of their own heads, baby dragons or snakes. They wore velvet dresses, floral blouses, long embroidered skirts or sacred vestments. The head was c Allegoria, dal greco ἀλλή “altro” e ἀγορεύω “parlare”. È proprio un altro parlare quello di Alessandro Michele, un linguaggio denso di simboli, una filosofia nuova, sempre in divenire. È un racconto a molteplici voci, che…

MILANO February 23, 2018 Narrative and naïf, Marco de Vincenzo’s collection travelled through childhood memories in front of a Technicolor TV screen. However, his clothes claimed there was no signal: the cathode tube switched off, the set stayed silent, no wi-fi, social media or apps, the battery was flat. The show celebrated unplugging as an opportunity to really look at the world and discover the wonders of every day. Enlarged pixel prints depicted Antonello da Messina’s Annunciata and other paintings. Nature also featured: buds appeared as sea blue, green, red, sparkling and intarsia checks. Marco de Vincenzo was going for a relaxed Sunday atmosphere: light slip dresses, faux fur with interior design textures, dressing-gown coats, impalpable blouses and skirts, glittery down jackets, silk, lurex, nylon pieces, childish, naive colours, yellow,…

MILANO February 24, 2018 Through the boundless world of the imagination and a kaleidoscope of colours, Missoni proposed a colourful journey around the globe, suggesting a new aesthetic of flair, youth and freedom. It was a mix of cultures and references, a homage to Caribbean flavours, Jamaican influxes, Seventies reminiscences and atmospheres. A cosmopolitan, boundless look. A joyful, musical mood. Travelling girls discovered new realities dressed in light, natural ductile knit, mohair and lurex, brightly-coloured patchwork and woven textures that fitted and layered together with balance and harmony. Airy fringes decorated long gypsy skirts with rainbow flounces. Cloaks, fun ponchos, oversize jackets and masculine coats wrapped around the figure. Some looks featured bell bottoms and long scarves. It was an evocative, colourful universe in papaya orange and slate-grey. È attraverso…

MILANO February 21, 2018 Multi-coloured majorettes, dressed in the lights of Las Vegas, paraded for N°21, complete with all the creative energy of the drums and percussion. And the whirling rhythm of combinations and contaminations. Oversize parkas were worn over crystalencrusted slip dresses. Military trousers had sparkling rhinestone side bands. Dresses were light and transparent but dotted with metal eyelets. Workwear coats and jackets came in the colours of Las Vegas, thanks to multicoloured sequins. Tartan was given shine thanks to palm tree-shaped embellishments. Vinyl became a hyper-feminine material in skirts edged with lace and in slim trousers. Leather, pony skin and lurex expressed Alessandro Dell’Acqua’s flair in layered looks that mixed different hemlines, contrasts and colours. His majorettes wore black and white hats and whistle charms around their necks.…

MILANO February 23, 2018 Feline elegance, strong aesthetic. Paul Surridge explored the Roberto Cavalli archives and showcased a sexy collection packed with contemporary luxury. He highlighted the lines of the body for a woman who is not afraid of revealing herself in sensual transparencies, showing plenty of leg. Trousers were supertight in leather, with slits revealing the ankles. Dresses had plunging necklines, open backs and daring splits. Feathers, fringes, draping and flaps of airy chiffon fluttered at every step, accompanying the travels of this cosmopolitan, adventurous woman. Animal patterns came out at night in shadowy tints of black, smoke and pearl grey. They formed the coat of a fox and the plumage of an owl. A studded fur and a lynx print. Crocodile and python added an exotic touch to…

MILANO February 23, 2018 The Tod’s winter collection is for cosmopolitan, adventurous, travelling women. Dynamic globetrotters and pet-friendly. The show featured oversize patchwork shearling bombers covered by a double leather trench. Hooded parkas and anoraks protected from the rain. Innovative leather down jackets or all-white biker jackets looked great for windy days. The style was sporty and relaxed, as seen in suede jumpsuits, motocross trousers, jumpers with fringed shoulders, practical zips, and belts with pockets like reworked bumbags. Leather was a key part of the collection: woven, textured, embroidered, suede or patent. Gutsy and chic, casual and elegant. The premium material emblematic of Italian craftsmanship came in all shades of cognac and beige, vanilla, sage green, burgundy and powder blue. L’inverno di Tod’s è abitato da donne cosmopolite, avventuriere, viaggiatrici.…

MILANO February 23, 2018 Vionnet’s magical, unpredictable tale came to life in Milan’s Civic Aquarium. Goga Ashkenazi showcased mysterious mermaids emerging from the dark sea bed. Oceanic creatures going through a metamorphosis. Light, fluid, sleek fabrics in watery colours puckered, lifted and gathered into dresses with a nocturnal allure. They came in the changing colours of algae, coral and jellyfish. Skirts were moving swathes of pleats, floating and breaking like waves. Prints recalled a submerged world, absorbing its colours and consistencies. Woven mesh was added to draped one-shoulder dresses. These sirens were ready to leave the depths and move to the real world, where they wore sporty trousers, Lycra leggings, sheepskin jackets and long coats. Their soul retained its contemporary elegance. È nell’Acquario Civico di Milano che prende vita il…

NEW YORK February 13, 2018 Stacey Bendet loves to build her Alice + Olivia collections like tableaux vivants. Her latest presentation, cleaner and less theatrical than previous ones, was staged at ‘AO University’, where the designer acted as dean or professor emeritus, introducing the theme of each room, like the American Revolution Room or the Education Garden. There were many references to feminism and the women’s rights movement, so there were lots of Seventies looks with hippy and punk-rock touches: super-flared highwaist trousers, long dresses with lace and/or embroidery and floral prints, leather biker jackets with fringes or metallic appliqués, Victorianstyle blouses, tartan shirts and skirts. Everything was worn with high boots or ankle boots. In general, it was a playful, cheeky collection, more feminine than feminist, which didn’t shy…

NEW YORK February 9, 2018 Jill Stuart chose the National Arts Club, a private 19th-century house filled with old oil paintings, to stage her presentation in celebration of female power, particularly how it is expressed and channelled through art and clothes. The dresses on show here came in various styles and lengths, often in bright black or colourful velvet, in floral brocade or knit, worn over a turtleneck or paired with Victorian collars. Trousers were high-waist in solid colours or patterns, worn with a matching obi belt and knits or blouses with ruches and gathered collars, which were often topped with an additional collar with long laces hanging down the front. Tall riding boots and ankle boots finished the look. Jill Stuart sceglie il National Arts Club, casa privata del…

NEW YORK February 12, 2018 ‘Beloved’, this collection’s title, is about everything that Anna Sui truly and passionately loved in her youth, everything from the early ’60s fashion that filled her imagination before she left Detroit for New York. It is full of lively bright colour in an array of different-shaped dresses and a mix & match of eras up to the hedonistic Eighties. There were midi length skirts and high-waist trousers worn with pussy bow floral blouses, bohemian Victorian dresses, mini-chemisiers paired with opaque monochrome or patterned tights and laceup ankle boots, Empire lines brightened by prints and silver and gold embroidery. Everything came with imaginative jewellery, woollen scarves and berets, bumbags and aged-effect bauletto bags. ‘Beloved’, come tutto ciò che Anna Sui ha veramente ed appassionatamente amato nella…

NEW YORK February 13, 2018 Raf Simons’s Calvin Klein show was an allegory of American society. Staged at the American Stock Exchange with models walking through a sea of popcorn between scaffolding and the remains of an old barn, the collection featured lots of layering and contrasts, with firefighter jackets worn over oversize masculine coats or teamed with chunky sweaters, prairiestyle tiered skirts and dresses. Cowboy shirts were paired with a turtleneck, high-waist trousers with side bands and Texan boots, while daring 19th century-style dresses in sheer chiffon or with deconstructions and cut-outs revealed the bust or had plunging necklines. Thigh-high rubber boots, knitted balaclavas and long silver gloves completed the look, generating a dystopic effect. È un’allegoria della società americana in chiave universale il nuovo lavoro di Raf Simons…

NEW YORK February 12, 2018 ‘National Velvet’, the 1944 film that made eleven-year-old Elizabeth Taylor a star, was quoted in Derek Lam’s show notes. The chosen theme was equestrianism, which was clear to see in the very first look - an asymmetric blue suede cloak worn with loose trousers and a large bag resembling a feed bucket. Graphic knits were paired with trousers with side bands, resembling jockey uniforms, some pencil skirts were quilted while others featured a contrasting horse shape. The main focus was the outerwear, which included cloaks, long coats with or without a belt in classic menswear fabrics or in a bright amethyst colour. ‘Gran Premio’, il film del 1944 che lanciò l’undicenne Elizabeth Taylor, è citato tra le note di sfilata di Derek Lam e non…

NEW YORK February 14, 2018 An extreme collection inspired by ’80s haute couture. Marc Jacobs put on another great show by paying homage to all the big brands from the hedonistic decade, from Mugler to Ungaro and Saint Laurent. The distinctive features of the time were all there: statement shoulders, megaruches, enormous collars, belts with maxi bows, super high waist - in short, nothing was missing and everything was ramped up in size. Devoid of sex-appeal, barring a new form-fitting stretch knit looks, the body shape disappeared entirely inside big coats and cloak-overcoats, wide darted trousers, oversize sweaters worn over midi-length skirts and boots, while big wide-brimmed hats hid the faces. Thick, heavy fabrics and bold colours added to the excess. Una collezione estrema ispirata all’haute couture anni ’80; Marc…

NEW YORK February 12, 2018 In their third collection for Oscar de la Renta, Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia seem to have gained more confidence and balance, which is not easy considering the red carpet excellence established by the founder. Drawing on memories of a trip made with de la Renta to The Cloisters, the wing of the Metropolitan Museum of Art in Manhattan, to see a sound installation by artist Janet Cardiff, the creative duo used enchanting medieval tapestries to create prints, embroidery and appliqués for coats, dresses, shirts, jumpers, and skirts of various styles and lengths. Evening wear was also floral, with the addition of gold and silver as well as transparencies and airy tulle. Alla terza collezione per Oscar de la Renta, Laura Kim e Fernando Garcia…

NEW YORK February 8, 2018 There was plenty of glamour on Tom Ford’s runway, beginning with a sequinned sweatshirt with ‘Beverly Hills’ lettering topped by the designer’s signature in crystals, which will no doubt fly off the shelves. Ford moved from London to Los Angeles about a year ago and the effect is clear to see in this iridescent, sporty collection, as evidenced by leggings worn in place of trousers even in the men’s looks. Leggings came in all materials, monochrome or animal but especially sparkling, particularly in gold or silver, and were worn with long tight blazers, crew neck knits, overcoats and oversize jackets in a psychedelic patchwork of fabrics and patterns and the odd fur panel. Leopard print tiered mini-dresses were worn over tonal tights and black ones…

NEW YORK February 19, 2018 “Whether we look at her or not, she doesn’t care, she keeps living. She is free, she is herself, she is a girl who assumes her masculine femininity infused with sexiness.” The spirit of the new Zadig & Voltaire collection lies in the words of creative director Cecilia Bönström, who infused the look with a “masculine femininity” which translated into tough pieces, such as the black leather zipped jumpsuit with crystaltrimmed pockets that opened the show. The collection continued with a combination of tailored coats and jackets with skinny trousers and ankle boots or else just a pair of lace tights. Mini to oversize biker jackets were worn with little skirts and slip dresses. “Che la guardiamo o no, a lei non importa, continua a…