SHOWDETAILS MILANO+PARIS+BEST BRANDS Spring - Summer 2018

Magnetism. An electric charge, an energy that catches the eye, that draws in everything around it. Not using metal, iron or minerals, but the enchantment of silks and cottons. The suggestion of pigments, the alchemy of reflections create a kind of magic. The transformation of materials, the fusion of embroidery and prints, a contamination at work. Magnetism is what exploded on the Milan runways, telling different stories through unexpected combinations, poetic hybridisations, forces of attraction and mutations. Magnetism is a new vision of seduction. The jeunes filles on the runway are naughty, never affected, profound and hiding secrets. Their arms are veiled in tulle gloves, their lingerie is visible, their slip dresses transparent. They love strong contrasts; at times they wear milk white underwear alongside irreverent, sporty, urban elements, in…

Milan is an old chest for pulling out memories, packed with traditions to be reinvented. Contemporary, all-new, exclusive trousseaux take shape. They are white memories, contaminated by styles, by aggressive, seductive elements. A new femininity invades the runways, full of connections and slashes, innocence and shadow. Ermanno Scervino’s woman is light and shade. She bares all, shows her most hidden, vulnerable sides, dressed only in a slip dress. Ethereal, she wears pure, white silk, decorated with embroidery, intarsia and raised embellishments. Then she puts on pieces stolen from menswear – pinstripe jackets, bombers and oversize suits. She considers the harmony of genders, cheekiness and sensuality. Blumarine pays homage to spring and youth. Its collection smells of lily of the valley and violets and feels like a fresh morning. Girls that…

The fashion show is a multi-layered, changing, unforeseeable, sensory experience. A ritual, a liturgy. The clothes are eclectic universes, like mirrors, fragments of coloured glass, composing figures, symmetry, colour synergies. Keep quiet and observe. Let the eye be captured by kaleidoscopic visions. Gucci enchants and hypnotises. The show featured errant women smelling of incense and mystery through distant eras and worlds. It was all about shine, with a whirl of sequins, crystals and precious embroidery. They wore sleeveless python pieces, silky suits and long dresses. They had no fear of reptiles, or the most daring colour combinations. With an anti-conformist air, they had an indomitable charm, an esoteric aesthetic. Iridescent mosaics for Dolce & Gabbana, and precious florals, ex-voto offerings, tassels, gold crowns, jewel buttons. But also images of Cupid,…

Militant is the one who defends an ideal. Militant is the one who never asks permission. Who chooses action, words, communication, who writes a manifesto. Today, militant is the one who prefers to take a side. Who decides to wear a message. Without shouting, but with a voice. The clothes, jackets, garments shown in Milan exhibit new codes on their fabrics, new rebellious vocabulary, new fighting tactics. What makes Prada’s protest so incisive is the use of image. Double-breasted coats, oversize suits and masculine shirts feature pencil drawings, cartoons, stories of heroines and courageous women. To invite reflection, to give shape to a collection that is dedicated to the female universe and that marches towards a world without prejudice. Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini showcases a collection that mixes masculine and…

Magnetismo. Una carica elettrica, un’energia che cattura lo sguardo, che attira a sé tutto ciò che la circonda. Non vi è metallo, non vi è ferro, non vi sono minerali. È l’incantesimo delle sete, dei cotoni. È un sortilegio, la suggestione dei pigmenti, l’alchimia dei riflessi. È la trasformazione della materia, la fusione dei ricami e delle stampe, una contaminazione in atto. Magnetismo, quello che esplode sulle passerelle di Milano, che racconta storie diverse attraverso accostamenti imprevisti, ibridazioni poetiche, forze di attrazione e mutazioni. Magnetismo è una nuova visione della seduzione. Sfilano jeunes filles maledette, mai leziose, profonde, che celano segreti. Hanno braccia velate in guanti di tulle, hanno lingerie a vista, sottovesti trasparenti. Amano i forti contrasti, talvolta indossano biancheria color latte accanto ad elementi dissacranti, sportivi, urbani, in…

Milano è un antico baule da cui pescare ricordi, gonfio di tradizioni da reinventare. Così prendono forma corredi contemporanei, inediti, esclusivi. Sono memorie bianche, contaminate dagli stili, da elementi aggressivi, seducenti. Una nuova femminilità invade le passerelle, vive di connessioni e fenditure, innocenza e tenebra. La donna di Ermanno Scervino vibra di luci ed ombre. Si spoglia di tutto, si mette a nudo, mostra i suoi lati più nascosti, vulnerabili, vestita solo di una sottoveste. Eterea, indossa sete candide, pure, cosparse di ricami, intarsi, decorazioni a rilievo. Si copre poi con capi rubati da un guardaroba maschile, giacche gessate, bomber e tailleur oversize. Contempla l’armonia dei generi, malizia e sensualità. Blumarine intesse una lode alla primavera, alla giovinezza. La sua collezione profuma di mughetto e di violette, ha la consistenza…