Gripped: The Climbing Magazine October/November 2023 Vol. 25 Issue 5

There’s no better time of year to be a crag climber than now. As the days get shorter and the conditions crisper, you can finally put your summer of climbing hard and projecting to the test. Whether it’s friction slab or steep jugs, cooler temperatures give you that tacky advantage that you didn’t have midsummer. Not to mention the wildfire smoke has dissipated and the crowds have returned to their routines away from the rock. When heading out for some fall cragging, be sure to pack the essentials, such as the puffy jacket, a toque and maybe some mitts. The mornings will be cool, so be prepared to strip off layers throughout the day, especially on those steep approaches. You probably won’t have to worry about mosquitoes or a scorching…

Rab Men’s Banff Force Hoody $70 This limited edition long-sleeve is Rab’s Force Hoody with a print of Lake Louise (on the back). It’s the perfect layer for fall climbing and training. It’s lightweight, breathable, and durable. The Banff festival takes place Oct. 28 to Nov. 5. The North Face Men’s ThermoBall Traction Booties $52 Fall is bootie season, so if you don’t already have a pair, then be sure to pick some up. The Traction Booties are stylish, easy to slip on and make for great between-burn attempts on your fall project. Black Diamond Method S $180 Black Diamond has come a long way in the world of climbing shoes over the past few years, with the newer Method S being one of the brand’s best-ever soft shoes. It’s…

Sasha DiGiulian is one of the world’s leading climbers. For nearly two decades, she’s been at the forefront of hard single and multi-pitch climbing. After making the podium at the 2011 World Championships, she made quick work of the famous Pure Imagination 5.14c at Red River Gorge. She’s a three-time national champion, who made the first free ascent of the 15-pitch Misty Wall in Yosemite with Jon Cardwell in 2017. In 2022, she made the second ascent of Rayu, a 15-pitch 5.14-, with Brette Harrington and Matilda Soderlund. DiGiulian has completed her first book, Take the Lead, for fall 2023. What motivated you to write a book? I’ve wanted to write a book for a while. Writing is something I turn to to for a multitude of things, including to…

Veteran mixed and ice climber Gord McArthur has spent over 20 years pushing his limits on steep terrain. He’s established some of the world’s most difficult drytool pitches and has competed for Canada at world cups in a dozen countries. His experience and skills make him a great instructor and coach. Based in B.C., he shares some thoughts on how to prepare for the upcoming season on the tools. Strong Base To be active in any sport, giving your body a good base level of strength is important. Your core, upper body, lower back, legs and shoulders need to be on a solid foundation. Pullups, squats, dead lifts, shoulder presses, push-ups, dips, triceps extensions—these exercises will give you the foundation to move into sport-specific strength training. Be Mobile Your ability…

Making the jump from sport to trad climbing is a tough step. Climbs require a new set of techniques and a steep learning curve. Going from predominantly sport climbing in Canada and then moving back to the U.K., I struggled adapting to the style of trad climbing. Getting it right means you’re open to a new world of adventurous climbs that can take you (almost) anywhere. Essential Lessons Know your gear Being good at trad climbing means knowing your gear and how to use it well. There’s already a lot of great articles and videos about beginner trad racks and how to place gear, so I’ll leave the exact details out. It’s important that no matter what rack you buy, you learn how to place every piece in a variety…

Tucked away in Quebec’s La Malbaie is one of the world’s most famous tall ice lines. La Pomme d’Or is on Mont de l’Equerre in Hautes-gorges de la rivière Malbaie. It offers big exposure, hard ice, steep climbing and a true adventure. The 360 metres is divided into six pitches with climbing up to WI6 in lean conditions and WI5 in fat years. The first ascent was by Kurt Winkler and Jim Tierney in March 1980. In 1985, famous Italian climber Renato Casarotto, along with partners Guido Ghigi and Gian Carlo Grassi, made one of the first repeats. Casarotto went on to become one of the boldest alpinists of all time. Then, in 1989, the late Guy Lacelle became the first climber to solo La Pomme d’Or, which made the…