Gripped: The Climbing Magazine December 2016 - January 2017

It’s wintertime and snot rockets are cool. Whether you’re at the base of an ice climb or you’re about to shake off the cold and step into a climbing gym, it’s OK to let it fly. Every autumn, when I unpack my jackets, I find hardened snot stains plastered along the sleeves from the previous winter. It’s a reminder of the brutal temperatures that make us to do crazy things like go ice climbing or spend eight hours at the climbing gym. My best snot rockets are always 30 metres up an ice pillar. With a snotty upper lip, I’m sure to aim away from my belayer, but no one can control the spray. Don’t be shy, it feels great to blow your nose with nothing to blow into. Just…

Black Diamond Iota Headlamp $48 Black Diamond gave their headlamp line an overhaul and the new Iota is one of the results. The Iota is perfect for climbers because of its compact size. It’s the headlamp you leave in your pack for any occasion, just in case you need it. It can recharge with a USB cord, is waterproof and has four settings. A great stocking stuffer! Edelrid Ohm US$130 One of the best gifts you can get someone who spends time sport climbing. The assisted-breaking device helps to even out the weight difference between a climber and a belayer. It is installed at the first bolt on lead and if the climber falls, the Ohm increases rope friction. Great for lightweight climbers who hang out with partners heavier than…

Lawrence White joined the Alpine Club of Canada (ACC) in 1999 while living in Vancouver and pursuing his bachelor’s degree in tourism management. In 2002, he moved to Canmore and began working for the ACC. White began in the mountain adventures portfolio and then became the facilities director before taking on the role of executive director in 2007. Gripped touched base with White at the ACC headquarters in Canmore. 1 What mountains can you see from your office? I can see the Three Sisters, the Ehagay Nakoda range with Ha Ling and Mount Lawrence Grassi, and Mount Rundle. It’s a great view. 2 What was your first trip with the ACC? I think my first trip was a winter 2000 ski trip to Tryst Lake Chutes in K-country. I’ve been…

Jeremy Smith Sends New Squamish 5.13 Strong West Coast climber Jeremy Smith has made the first free ascent of Free Dimensional on Frog Ducker Spire. The route was first climbed by Glen Woloski in 2013 and left as an open project. Smith and Ben Harnden (third ascent of Dreamcatcher 5.14d) spent some time inspecting the route. There is a 10-metre or so run-out above a black alien. Smith is known for his run-out first ascents, including The Bull 5.14R. David P. Jones Awarded 2016 Summit of Excellence Award David P. Jones, one of Western Canada’s leading mountain experts, was awarded the Summit of Excellence Award at the Banff Mountain Film and Book Festival. From glacier routes to steep north face grade sixes, Jones has likely studied them for one of…

New Route on Bedson Ridge in Jasper Dunynel Geiger and Tyler Davidson sent a new route on Bedson Ridge near Jasper. Their new 300-metre 5.10c is a variation of Grand Mother and Running Scared in Dark Places. They called it The Illusion of Running Scared in Dark Places. New Squamish Sport Crag is Pilots’ Lounge The Pilots’ Lounge has a handful of routes to 5.13b. To access the wall, you must climb a 40-metre 5.11 called Ground Up. The wall is located near the Top Shelf crag above the Mamquam FSR road. First Ascent of Big Bugaboo Route Jesse Huey and Maury Birdwell made the first free ascent of the 30-pitch Armageddon at 5.12+. The grade-six route was first climbed in 1999 by Jonny Copp and Mike Pennings at 5.11+…

Anna Clare Smith had a radiant energy that exploded from her lungs in the form of a raucous laugh that echoed around the world, from the hallowed granite of Yosemite, to the petrified ice lines of the Bow Valley, to the towering spires of Baffin Island. She was an inspirational climber, not because she was particularly strong, but because she blazed a trail up famous, hard and bold lines where most climbers fear to tread. Anna didn’t care about sending. She chased the experience, the high and the wild, the remote and the majestic. She marvelled at how privileged we were to be about to access and explore such gorgeous places and do the things that brought us great joy. She tragically left this world on Sept. 30 while on…