Gripped: The Climbing Magazine October - November 2016

When the Tokyo Olympics kick off in 2020, 40 climbers will be prepared to represent their countries. The combined format will have the world’s top climbers going head to head in bouldering, lead and speed climbing. While some athletes have spoken out against the format, arguing bouldering and speed are too opposite of sports to be grouped together, many young climbers have switched their training programs to include all three. If it all works out, future Olympics might separate the disciplines into three medal categories and everyone wins. It was a hard summer for access groups in Canada. With climbing being more popular than ever, parking, camping and trails were the busiest they have ever been. In Ontario and B.C., local law enforcement was busy issuing tickets to trespassers and…

Grivel Stealth $TBA The newly designed and aerodynamic Stealth is one of Grivel’s most streamlined and strong helmets. At 195 g, it comes with a simple-to-use fit adjustment system and solid headlamp clips. With plenty of vents for hot days, this is a great summer rock helmet. Available in spring 2017. Goal Zero Venture 70 Recharger $150 Goal Zero has been recharging our electronics in the backcountry for years. Their new Venture 70 is a rugged recharger that powers your phone, computer or new select headlamps quickly. It comes with a micro USB and Apple Lightning cable options so you can leave yours at home. Petzl Grigri Plus $TBA The Petzl Grigri Plus is an updated and beefier version of the much-loved Grigri. Used for 8.9 to 10.5 mm ropes,…

Sarah Hueniken has been a leading Canadian mixed climber for the past few years with big sends of hard routes in North America. While she has pushed herself on bigger international peaks, like the 5,965-metre Shachun in China, her hard M sends and podium tops are a seasonal happening. She was the first North American woman to send M11, M12, M13 and M14 with the fourth ascent of Mustang P-51 in Colorado. When not pushing mixed climbing, Hueniken works as an ACMG alpine guide. 1 When did you start ice climbing? I tried it in university- but hated it. I was wearing ski boots and froze my feet. I didn’t really start until I moved to the Canadian Rockies about 15 years ago. 2 Do you recall your first mixed…

Alex Megos Alex Megos visited the Canadian Rockies in August. Read about his first 5.15 in Canada on p.42. Megos also made the first ascent of Full Nelson 5.14d at Acephale, flashed The Path 5.14R, onsighted The Shining 5.13d 12 pitches, made the first ascent of Iron Butterfly 5.14c/d at Planet X, the first ascent of another 5.14 at Carrot Cave and flashed a handful of other 5.14+ sport routes. Megos also sent Dreamcatcher 5.14d, flashed The Path 5.14R and onsighted The Shining 5.13d. Wheat Kings is Rockies Seven-Pitch 5.7 Editor Brandon Pullan and Gaby James established Wheat Kings on Cascade Mountain near Banff. The seven-pitch 5.7 is fully bolted, but not a sport climb, which means the cruxes are bolted but there are spaces between some bolts. The third…

Jackalope Montreal Bimini Harstmann won Jackalope in Montreal for the women, followed by Celeste Well and Cat Carkner. For the men, Francis Bilodeau took first followed by Seb Lazure and Je Bouge-Moins. Marc Eveleigh 5.14 Marc Eveleigh sent Leviathan at Acephale, his first 5.14a. Eveleigh is a top comp climber based in Calgary. Grand Sentinel Highline Drew Lieterman and friends established the Grand Sentinel highline between it and a near-by spire. It was the highest alpine line to date in the Rockies at 2,400 metres. It spanned 50 metres long and was 85 metres high. Frangos Sisters Send 5.13d Sara and Becca Frangos, top comp climbers from Canmore, sent Endless Summer 5.13d at Acephale on different days this summer. New Rogers Pass 5.11 Tony McLane and Jason Ammerlann climbed the…

I love belaying. It’s true. I am that guy who shouts, growls and screams as my climber gives it their all high above. I love that energy. To climb with partners who share stoke and try hard is what it’s all about. I have been known to shout a climber or two up their project. I, too, thrive when my belayer puts their vocal chords to the limit. How could I let them down? My finest belay ever was when I had the opportunity to feed rope to Alex Megos when he sent Canada’s first 5.15, which he called Fightclub. The older I get, the more I climb, the more conscious I am of the impact my partners have on my day. I crave energy. I want to share motivation…