Gripped: The Climbing Magazine October - November 2015

There is a lot of rock to free climb in Canada, from old aid routes to new lines. The growing trend of attempting to free aid pitches, in pursuit of difficult free-climbing seems to have gained momentum this year, especially in B.C. A core group of dedicated senders spent the summer pushing grades on bold and run-out terrain. Many of the routes required a good mountain sense and the ability to send 5.12 on remote faces. The following are just a few of the inspiring sends from the summer of 2015. In Squamish, Marc-Andre Leclerc sent a section of an old Perry Beckham and Damien Kelly aid route on the North Walls called The Raven. His new free route, which is called Raven Free, climbs two stiff pitches up to…

Edelrid Topaz 9.2 60 m $285, 70 m $318 Climbers seeking a versatile lightweight rope will prize the triple-rated (single, half and twin) Topaz. Unlike many skinny cords that suffer from reduced durability, Edelrid has beefed up the sheath proportions (37 per cent of the rope) so that the Topaz can better withstand the use (and abuse) to which many climbers subject their ropes. This is an exceptional rope that can easily transition from high-level sport and trad routes to the alpine environment. Metolius Campus Rungs $49 While some climbers are just now embracing climbing-specific training, it’s worth noting that companies like Metolius have been producing training products for climbers since the 1980s. The Metolius Campus rungs have a proven record of success that is hard to ignore. They are…

Ontario’s Pete Zabrok Makes Third Ascent of The Real Nose in Yosemite In early 2015, Pete Zabrok and Yosemite speed-climbing legend Steve Schneider made the third ascent of the 1984 The Real Nose 5.10+ A4 over 15 days. Zabrok, 55, has climbed 53 different El Cap routes and has spent 629 nights on the side of the iconic wall. The route was first climbed by Steve Grossman and Charles Cole and has a combination of hard aid and runout free climbing, which has kept away many climbers. Zabrok and Shneider had to replace a number of bolts, drilling by hand. Two days later, Zabrok climbed The Unreal Nose in 15 hours with Cristobal Señoret, Chile’s alpinist of the year. New Routes at Remote Leaning Towers Kate Rutherford and Jasmin Caton…

New Splitter Route in Bugaboos Jon Walsh and Alik Berg made the first free ascent of Welcome to the Machine 5.11+ 13 pitches on the east face of Snowpatch Spire, a new route Walsh had started in 2014 with Michelle Kadatz. Ueli Steck Completes 82 Summits In July, the “Swiss Machine” Ueli Steck completed the Alps’ 82 summits challenge in only 62 days, which is not fast enough to beat the existing record. He climbed all 82 peaks over 4,000 metres travelling between using muscle power. Edge of Pan Jesse Huey made the second free ascent of Edge of Pan 5.13. The route is on the Pan Wall on the Chief above Squamish. Not long after his send, Brette Harrington made the third ascent. Vikkie Weldon Sends Hard Crack Vikki…

It’s the season when mixed and ice climbers hang up their rock climbing shoes and prepare for the winter. Whether you’re a seasoned pro or just getting started, there’s always room for improvement. Here are 10 tips that will help you improve your mixed climbing game this season. 1 Train at home in the offseason Early season mixed routes can be thin and often difficult to climb, get in shape before the season starts. If a dedicated dry-tool cliff is available, climbing on real rock can be good practice, but isn’t always the most time efficient. A simple home training board or gym is an effective and time efficient way to start getting in shape in the offseason without damaging the rock. If you do train on rock, stay off…

Dead hangs: One of the biggest obstacles of early-season climbing is the flash-pump. Hanging from your ice tools improves staying power in your forearms. Improve staying power in the forearms. Hook your tools on something (preferably not the door jamb) and hang for about 15 seconds. Repeat for five to eight sets a few times a week. This will help you get a jump on building that tool-holding power. If you’re already proficient at this, add weight or hang longer. Kettlebell swings: A proven shoulder and leg workout, the kettlebell swing will strengthen your neck and back as well. With both hands, grab a kettlebell and spread your legs to shoulder-width apart. From a half-squat with the kettlebell hanging, power upward and swing the kettlebell over your head. Stay in…