Gripped: The Climbing Magazine August/September 2018

Speed climbing has taken centre stage again, as many of the world’s best climbers are pushing themselves up big walls and mountains as fast as they can, which means there’s limited protection. While it might seem tempting to join in the race, keep in mind that those who achieve speed records are often the best climbers in the world at their style. For example, Colin Haley got the record on the Cassin Ridge on Denali this spring, but it was after years of preparation and hundreds of alpine solos. David Allfrey got the speed record on Zodiac on El Cap this year, but he’s one of the world’s best A5 big wall climbers. And Tommy Caldwell and Alex Honnold got the speed record for The Nose in under two hours,…

1. What’s one of the most impressive climbs you’ve witnessed and why? Alex Megos on Kinder Surprise 5.14c. He made some really hard moves look hilariously easy and that was super motivating to watch. 2. What climbers do you look up to in 2018? I look up to climbers like Alex Megos, Margo Hayes, Sonnie Trotter and Vikki Weldon for sending routes that inspire me, for being honest and hard working and of course for being incredibly strong climbers. I also look up the entirety of team Japan but then again who doesn’t these days. 3. Is your last year being a junior on Team Canada everything you want it to be? Yes and no. Yes, because my competition season was my best yet and my last youth being lead/speed…

The North Face Women’s Beyond the Wall High-Rise Pants $129 These slim-fitting pants are durable and perfect for wearing under your harness because they stretch with you. These are climbing-specific pants that are great for the crag or multi-pitches. Arc’teryx Phasic Sun Hoody $140 This might be one of the best layers of the decade. It’s comfortable, stretchy, bright, never stinks and is highly durable for long days out, while giving good sun protection. If it gets cold, it acts as a base layer. Wild Country Revo $175 A great belay device for novice climbers that functions the same no matter what way the rope is loaded. It gives smooth belays with its frictionless design and works with larger-diameter ropes. A must-have for crag days. Petzl Tikkid $34 This is…

Canadian Compressor is New Multi-Pitch 5.11 Konstantin Stoletov from Edmonton and friends established another mega sport route on Ashlar Ridge near Jasper this spring. “Another big sport climb has been established by Edmonton team on Ashlar Ridge, Jasper,” said Stoletov. Canadian Compressor cuts in the middle of an impressive V-shaped face in the right face of the wall with the sustained headwall pitches that go at the grades of 5.11b, 5.11c, 5.11a, 5.10d and 5.11a. “The headwall pitches do not give you any rest with nonstop moves at the 5.11 range making Canadian Compressor a must-do for any strong 5.11 climber visiting the area,” said Stoletov. Mike Doyle Repeats R-Rated Test-piece Canadian Mike Doyle repeated the East Face of Monkey Face 5.13d in Smith Rocks on trad gear. He might…

First V12 for Catherine Vaillancourt Quebec-based Catherine Vaillancourt has sent A Tea With Elmarie V12 in Rocklands, South Africa, her first at the grade. Evan Hau Complete’s Planet X Evan Hau made the first repeat ascent of an Alex Megos route at Planet X in Cougar Creek in Canmore called Iron Butterfly 5.14c/d and continued work on a possible new 5.15 at the crag. Sarah Hart’s First 5.13c Squamish climber Sarah Hart sent her first 5.13c with a tick of Strange Days at Cheakamus Canyon, B.C. Annie Chouinard Spring Send Quebec climber Annie Chouinard made the first female ascent of Taxe Carbonique 5.13+ at Orford. New Horne Lake 5.14a Yannick Neufeld-Cumming made the first ascent of Jesus is a Dinosaur, the newest 5.14a at Horne Lake, B.C. Everest/Lhotse in a…

The 500-metre high east face of Snowpatch Spire has been getting a lot of attention over the past decade and is quickly becoming one of the finest alpine rock faces in North America for free climbing. What used to be a face known primarily as an aid climbing venue, is now covered in free-climbing lines, although mostly difficult ones, usually requiring at least a couple pitches of 5.12. Perhaps the most amazing thing about it is that almost every pitch is good. “I don’t think there’s another mountain in western Canada that can boast that,” said Jon Walsh, who has been putting in countless hours of effort over the past few years to free aid pitches. “Like a big crag offering pure rock climbing in the alpine, it offers an…