Innholdsfortegnelse for Avril 2016 i Vogue Hommes English Version

Sergei Polunin —In the video of Irish singer Hozier’s hit single “Take Me To Church”, dancer Sergei Polunin, in ripped tights with tattoos across his bare torso, dances alone in what one imagines to be a hangar lost somewhere in a forest. He leaps towards the roof, pulls himself across the floor, takes his beautiful, tousled head in his hands; an expressionist demon, rock ’n’ roll creature, bad boy en pointe. The video, posted early last year, has been watched by 14 million people. The Ukrainian dancer is yet another fascinating example of an abundance of natural talent paired with a cruelly unstable temperament. As witnessed in his flamboyant performance for Mario Sorrenti (p. 174). The son of a housewife and a building worker, Sergui Polunin ( 26 ) was…

Sukajan —Singer Zayn Malik can resurrect whole swathes of the male wardrobe single–handed. He has just done it again with the sukajan, aka souvenir jacket. After 1945, American soldiers posted to Japan used to commission jackets from the local embroiderers. The GIs gave them bolts of parachute silk sneaked out of army stores and the craft workers covered the made–up jackets with dragons, images of Snoopy, cherry blossom, geishas, and eagles symbolising allied power. The jacket was a hybrid between the preppy and the kimono, and named sukajan. In the 1960s, they were worn by Japanese youth as a sign of rebellion and became associated with gangs. The GIs continued to knock off and embroider parachutes during the Korean and Vietnam wars with increasingly draft dodging, antimilitarist symbols. Zayn Malik’s…

Banish tiredness A twosome that revitalises tired features by boosting the skin’s energy, for a result that is visible, and fresh to the touch. Face Cleanser Care, €65 and Gel Lotion Care, €60, Hervé Hérau at Colette. Truffle mask The brush is used on a dry skin to stimulate the cells. The black mask is then applied to lighten shadows. A real skin wake–up. Re–Nutriv Ultimate Diamond, Energizing Black Mask, Estée Lauder, €330 . Cleansing balm A balm rich in oil ready to massage into the skin. It dissolves everything, including sebum, without touching the skin’s protective film. Luminous Cleansing Elixir, €75, available at Montaigne Market. Energy cocktail A blend of clay, spices and salts, activated by Vitamin C, which boosts circulation, ejects toxins and leaves the skin totally purified.…

—Prince Vadim was never the critics’ darling. Two or three hastily concocted lesser works even had them sniffing the air with disdain ( as would later, made–in–the–USA turkeys Night Games and Surprise Party). Early on, as early as No Sun in Venice, Please Not Now! and Love on a Pillow, he was lambasted for not being inhabited by cinema, for wanting nothing more than to film girls — make a film so he could meet them, make a film so he could love them, make a film so he could see them move and dance, and ultimately make a film so he could leave them. Vadim was constantly throwing out projects, but the nitty–gritty of cinema, the weeks of filming, the editing, the nights spent mixing, must have bored him…

—James Jagger is 30, the same age as his father was in 1973. Mick reportedly spent the first week of that year with the Rolling Stones and friends in Hawaii, where he treated them to some twenty bottles of Château Margaux 1957. 1973 was also the year the Stones released the album, Goats Head Soup, which they had recorded in Jamaica. No one can hold a candle to Mick Jagger and James can only try to resemble him without losing himself in the shadow of a noisy, charismatic legend. Is it more difficult being the son of a star like Mick Jagger, whom Keith Richards himself in his autobiography refers to as “Your Majesty”, than being the star himself? And not merely being a star, but remaining a star lastingly…

—The world of British ready–to–wear is a roiling hotbed of talent, where designers with increasingly radical visions vie with each other and the rest. Grace Wales Bonner’s male silhouette is singular from the word go: willowy, retro, and precious — worlds apart from the dominant banker or urban professional look. After an award–winning graduation show at Central Saint Martins, she was commissioned to do a presentation at the Victoria and Albert Museum. Two years on, and she’s having to fight off solicitations so that she can concentrate on her own label. “The structure is small for now — someone at sales, an assistant, a press officer, and me. It’s true that there’s a trend in London right now, with Craig Green and J.W. Anderson. We’re pushing boundaries to extremes, which…

The man Born twenty–eight years ago in Marsala, on the island of Sicily, Giovanni spent his childhood travelling with his mother. “Often switching from one town and school to another was simply a fact of life. And that no doubt influenced my character. I am naturally reserved, with a great ability to adapt.” He majored in the sciences at high school and was aiming to go to medical school. But his encounter with the late writer and theatre director Michele Perriera, who taught him, changed his outlook considerably. “The man who wrote A presto introduced me to another world, one of literature, the history of music, theatre, philosophy, and more.” Giovanni ended up studying fashion and design at the Iuav, the Venice School of Architecture. From there, he went straight…

Velvet Goldmine —After the David Bowie Is exhibition at the Philharmonie de Paris, the new Paris venue continues to explore rock legends, with a major show on the Velvet Underground. Together with Carole Mirabello, Christian Fevret, the founder of Inrockuptibles magazine, is curating the exhibition, bringing back to life, both for aficionados and a new audience, the world of the group led by Lou Reed and John Cale, under the high patronage of a certain Andy Warhol. The pope of pop himself signed the “banana” cover of their 1967 album, The Velvet Underground and Nico. With the original version, it was actually possible to peel the yellow banana on the cover to reveal a pink banana, which was clearly open to interpretation. The group broke up in 1973, but the…

—Jean–Baptiste Guillot calls up ten minutes before the agreed time for his interview. He’s running late because his bike, a superb Triumph, is playing up. In his forty–something banlieue–speak he warns that he won’t have much time to spend with us. Ever since he walked out on industry major EMI, where he was Executive VP, he has been boss and chief bottle washer of Born Bad Records, one of the most highly rated, prolific, and influential indie music labels of the past decade — and not just in France. His catalogue has class in spades, from the crazy hybrid renaissance rock of Cheveu, Feeling of Love, JC Satan, and Yussuf Jerusalem, to the gorgeous pop nostalgia of Dorian Pimpernel and Forever Pavot, and the synthetic punk rhyming of Violence Conjugale.…

—“A young Leonardo DiCaprio” are the words you hear most when people talk about him. And there’s some truth in that, when you think about that crazy blond barnet and those eyes, smouldering just like Leo’s, circa 1995. In fact, though, there’s something more edgy, something like an ideal cross between the teenage Brooke Shields ( dusky eyebrows, bottomless eyes ) and River Phoenix, because of the 90s vibe that Jordan Barrett radiates though every pore like some incontrovertible truth, possibly because it is the decade of his birth. Blond but grunge, he is simultaneously wild and sentimental. Put a denim jacket with a sheepskin collar on Jordan’s shoulders and you’ll be immediately transported to a scene in My Own Private Idaho. Jordan Barrett is perfectly at home with his…

—Although Gus Van Sant has lived in both New York and Los Angeles, he always returns to his chosen city, rainy Portland in Oregon. Portland is known to some as the capital of the weirdoes, those strange people who hate nothing as much as the fake tans and glitter of the Hollywood Hills. Van Sant has built up his social habitat and circle of friends among vintage record dealers and vegan strip clubs. This bubble is nonetheless permeable to everything new that the times have to offer, and is wide awake. Gus Van Sant, too, is on the fringe but always wide awake. He seems to function in cycles that are at once consistent and contrasting. His post–Beat Generation beginnings were marked by Mala Noche and My Own Private Idaho;…

—He has his dad’s mouth, lips as luscious as Salvador Dalí’s Bocca sofa, auguring girlish swoons. He also has the same voracious teeth and cool, blue, feline gaze. James Jagger ( because it is he ) is 30, and comes with a pedigree as brilliant as it is burdensome as the eldest son of one of rock’s all–time greats, and former top model Jerry Hall, the original eye candy. In the past few weeks this “son of”, who IRL fronts rage–fuelled punk group Turbogeist, has been acting up a storm in the ultra–glossy Vinyl, a supercharged TV series set in the 1970s record industry, a wall–to–wall frenzy of sex, drugs and head–banging riffs produced by dad Mick and Martin Scorsese. Setting aside the offspring’s evident resemblance to the pater, James…

—“Fragrance brand Byredo creates accessory collection”. In the multi–billion dollar world of fashion, it was just another “product launch”, the sort that requires a press release, a launch party and a glittering after–party. In this welter of clothes from the great legacy fashion labels, young creators, and independent brands, it’s easy to disappear without trace. It’s been ten years since Ben Gorham unveiled his perfumery line, Byredo. With his long, crow–black hair, tats, and imposing beard, the perfumer could have hidden behind his magnetic bad–boy looks, but he preferred honesty and tried to tell anyone who would listen that he knew nothing about perfume. So what could he bring to the party? The answer: a point of view, the ability to take decisions, eclectic tastes. And an ego. “It’s always…

Solar For newcomers to neroli, it is the essential oil extracted from the flowers of the bitter orange tree. It also happens to be central to this particularly suave unisex eau, to which a pinch of saffron has been added to give it sparkle. Eau de néroli doré, Hermès, 100 ml, €92. Sun–kissed Neroli Portofino needs no introduction. Redolent of the Mediterranean citrus fruit that has been put through the Tom Ford machine’s ultra–sensual mixer, this lighter aquatic version of Neroli Portofino is more crystalline, but still just as sexy as the smell of skin basking in the sun. Neroli Portofino Acqua, Tom Ford, 100 ml, €189 (from 4 April at Sephora). Dry A UFO–style bottle for a pulsatile fragrance, and an energetic concentrate of pure Virginian cedar, which should…

“The pace of work with the Arctic Monkeys over all these years was insane.” —He enters the Paris restaurant in a dark suit and dark glasses. He apologises, in French, for being late, carefully folds his jacket before sitting down, drags his fingers through shiny locks of hair, and, once in his shirtsleeves, orders a coffee. “It was a short night,” he smiles, raising his eyebrows above the dark glasses. Alex Turner has class, and all the natural elegance and distant charisma of stars. At 30, he has already seen his name engraved in the rock ’n’ roll hall of fame. Over the past ten years, as frontman of the Arctic Monkeys, Turner has conquered Britain, Europe and the US. The gold discs speak for themselves. Today, he is one…

—Robert Pattinson had been cast to star in Olivier Assayas’s crime thriller Idol’s Eye, but the backers pulled out and the project was shelved. The young British star, who first came into the public eye as vampire Edward Cullen in the gothic series, Twilight, is always on the look–out for adventurous projects, that are radically different from the films an actor who has achieved such success and fired such levels of fan hysteria is expected to make. He is now due to head the cast of French writer–director Claire Denis’s sci–fi feature, High Life, co–written by British film director and novelist Zadie Smith. Patricia Arquette and Mia Goth have already been announced as Pattinson’s co–stars. Completely taken up with preparations for the project, Claire Denis nonetheless took time out between…

—Does Karl Lagerfeld need any introduction? He’s the world’s only star couturier, and has artistically helmed Chanel for going on 35 years and Fendi for a half–century. A serial photographer, he’s also a scathing caricaturist, with his own page, the “Karlicaturs”, in Germany’s venerable Frankfurter Allgemeine Zeitung. He has an erudite, rapid–fire delivery, collects books, nuclear put–downs, and jewellery, especially 1920s brooches designed by the likes of Cartier, Templier and Fouquet, which he pricks the epidermis of his ties with. His silhouette is as easily identifiable as Mickey Mouse’s, and he never sheds his shades ( a speccy Shamballa model with diamond–encrusted temples ) or his ponytail, which he has never been able to bring himself to cut off “for fear it would grow back”. Seated behind a table in…

—You can imagine that each day sees its cargo of enamoured young men making their pilgrimage to Los Angeles in the same way as others trek to Lourdes. You see them circling the house, in the hope, perhaps, that a leather–attired biker or a cop on heat might roar out. Tom of Finland has been dead for 25 years now, and it is not him that the fans are waiting for, of course. All they are hoping for, perhaps, is that the unimaginable should come to pass, and that a drawing will detach itself from the plates exhibited in their hundreds on the walls, and the instantly recognisable crayon drawing will come to life, escape from the cartridge paper, prance around the house and at last open the door to…

—Are you a “globalised” teenage girl? No? Then you have probably not heard of Cameron Dallas. If you are not one of his 10 million fans on Instagram, 9 million subscribers on Vine or 6 million followers on Twitter, it is more than likely that you have not come across him, as we can no longer rely on the traditional media to be properly informed about what makes the heart of the world’s young people race. Despite his dizzying celebrity, very few articles have actually been written about Cameron Dallas, who is his very own medium, showing every hour, every minute of his life on the social networks where he has become a legendary hero. At 21, with his angelic, Justin Bieber–ish good looks, his perfect, symmetrical physique and the…