Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2016 i Surfing World Magazine

I used to daydream of wave pools. I daydreamed I had one under my house. I could catch an elevator that was hidden in my closet down to this giant stadium where a perfect four foot, right point peeled off for 200 metres. Away from prying eyes I could practice my tuberiding, roundhouses, and end section tail slide reverse 360s (thank you very much Kelly Slater in Black & White), and then blow minds at boardriders when I returned to the ocean a far superior surfer. In my daydream, only my best mates were allowed to come and surf my wave pool with me, and we’d laugh at all the old angry kooks who were back up on the surface complaining about the three month northerlies that blew our local…

Peter Capaldi is probably the finest exponent of invective working in the English language. He’s sadly wasted as Doctor Who. If Capaldi was a member of the WSL commentary team we’d have a much richer culture. In fact, if we ever have a “Scottish Storm”, the webcast will only be available via deep encryption from the Dark Net. It’s a sad reality that despite our happy-go-lucky demeanours, surfers occasionally feel the need to share emotions which are less than unequivocally buoyant. Sometimes, just sometimes, we need to advise each other that we are not entirely thrilled by one another’s presence in the lineup, or by natural human variances such as choice of equipment, technique or even facial expression. For such occasions, surfers have historically been happy enough to carry ordinary…

SNAP Snap-crackle-crackle-pop. The sound of the fire echoes off the ice chunks as Mick Fanning and Mason Ho — wetsuited and booted — warm their hands over the flames. A new swell is coming soon, they’re almost sure of it. So they wait. Pop-crackle-snap. “We need that big chunk to go so we can get a west swell,” Mason says, pointing straight ahead. “I want one of those lefts so bad.” “You reckon those last couple of easts brought in too much ice?” asks Mick. The water just off shore is a minefield of microwave-sized ice cubes. “Maybe,” Mason says. “But we gotta go no matter what. How often will we get a chance to do this?” A half-mile in front of them, a 500-foot glacier rises from a calm…

Sometimes people on surf trips think way too much about their moves before they catch a wave, or even see it. What’s good about Rasta is he doesn’t complicate things; it’s all feeling. Dave’s such a rad person to watch in the water and we’ve had a bunch of good surfs together in Byron and down the coast. He rides alot of twin-fins and I’ve tried to surf a few, but it’s real tricky, especially keeping all that drive and control the way Rasta does. I get on them and feel like I’m sliding all over the shop. I mean, you don’t see many people surf those boards like a thruster; because it’s insanely difficult to do well. With all that surface area, you almost have to toe tap your…

Every day I wake up and make stuff. Sometimes I might make a mushroom omlette. Sometimes I might make a hotel out of crayons and cardboard boxes. Sometimes I might make a sad face just so Mylie gives me a cuddle. I make stuff because making stuff is fun. That’s really what this regular column in Surfing World is all about. Except that sometimes I don’t make stuff. Recently the fam and I went over to Bali to get away from winter for a while and I got so busy eating Nasi Goreng, having afternoon pissang massages and shredding perfect lefts on the magical Bukit Peninch that I barely had any time left to make stuff at all. In fact, the only thing I did make…

1. WHAT IS THE MOST INSPIRING THING ABOUT SURFING FOR YOU RIGHT NOW ? Dane: Noa, Jay Davies, umm... the Dill & Beeg Project was rad. And Taj... always. Dion: All the new gang of freesurfers and that whole movement is incredible right now. You have so many amazing young guys with awesome personalities who all work really hard. Craig Ando, Creed, Noa, Dane, Brendon Gibbens, Jay Davies, Shaun Manners, Chippa… the list goes on. They’re all so talented in the water and some of my best friends who make me so pumped to keep trying to get better. Ozzie: Probably Mason Ho is my fave to watch. I also love Jack Coleman movies. All the fish and friction free stuff… I love all that too. But the most…

So I’d really like to start this little story about the drunk-pop band The Ruminaters by telling you about the first time I saw the drunk-pop band The Ruminaters. I’d like to… thing is though, I don’t actually remember that. No, I can only remember the first time I didn’t see them. We stood, my girlfriend and I, outside a house party a drop-punt back from Mona Vale Beach on Sydney’s Northern Beaches. “You can’t come in,” security said. “The party is at capacity,” security said. There were a bunch of kids standing around us all disappointed, clutching their bags of goon as they tried to convince the bouncers why they were meant to be inside. Down the street, kids were climbing the fences of neighbouring houses, trying to find…

PROFESSOR SHARKEY CHALLENGED THE NOTION THAT MACHINES COULD EVER REPLACE HUMAN CONTACT…”THIS ISN'T EMOTION; IT'S DECEPTION,” HE SAID. “THESE ROBOTS ARE DECEIVING PEOPLE AND FOOLING THEM INTO THINKING THEY LOVE SOMETHING THAT CAN'T LOVE THEM BACK.” WHEN BRITISH TECHNOLOGY EXPERT NOEL SHARKEY MADE THESE COMMENTS RECENTLY, HE WAS TALKING ABOUT THE DEVELOPMENT OF ‘SEX ROBOTS’ (DON’T LAUGH: THEY’RE ONLY ABOUT TEN YEARS AWAY AND YOU’RE GOING TO HAVE TO EXPLAIN THEM TO YOUR KIDS.) BUT LOOK CLOSER AT WHAT HE’S SAYING: WHEN HUMANS TRY TO USE TECHNOLOGY TO REPLICATE A NATURAL, PRIMAL INTERACTION, SOMETHING GOES MISSING. IS HE RIGHT? AND IF SO, IS THERE AN ANALOGY HERE FOR WHAT HAPPENS WHEN YOU REPLACE A COASTLINE WITH A MACHINE? IT’S ALL A MATTER OF PERSPECTIVE… Right now there is only one…

There’s nothing more democratic than the free flow of waves through salt water. Waves are amongst the few truly inexhaustible resources on our planet. Even in the surfing mecca of the Far North Coast of NSW, where you might believe that every wave is occupied by some hipster doofus with a man bun or impossibly dysfunctional attire (maybe both), there are so many waves to be had. And all alone, if you employ even a modicum of critical thinking. I didn’t grow up on the groomed points of the North Coast, I was raised on an island in Florida where we always walked to surf our straighthanders. It didn’t feel like a luxury then – we weren’t rich people living on ‘island time.’ I was just blooming where I was…