Surfing World Magazine September 2016

I used to daydream of wave pools. I daydreamed I had one under my house. I could catch an elevator that was hidden in my closet down to this giant stadium where a perfect four foot, right point peeled off for 200 metres. Away from prying eyes I could practice my tuberiding, roundhouses, and end section tail slide reverse 360s (thank you very much Kelly Slater in Black & White), and then blow minds at boardriders when I returned to the ocean a far superior surfer. In my daydream, only my best mates were allowed to come and surf my wave pool with me, and we’d laugh at all the old angry kooks who were back up on the surface complaining about the three month northerlies that blew our local…

Sometimes people on surf trips think way too much about their moves before they catch a wave, or even see it. What’s good about Rasta is he doesn’t complicate things; it’s all feeling. Dave’s such a rad person to watch in the water and we’ve had a bunch of good surfs together in Byron and down the coast. He rides alot of twin-fins and I’ve tried to surf a few, but it’s real tricky, especially keeping all that drive and control the way Rasta does. I get on them and feel like I’m sliding all over the shop. I mean, you don’t see many people surf those boards like a thruster; because it’s insanely difficult to do well. With all that surface area, you almost have to toe tap your…

GET BEHIND IT Clean Coast Collective The Clean Coast Collective is a lifestyle brand and non profit group that is dedicated to the very important issue of minimising marine debris in our oceans through their events and projects. Last year, for their Trash Tribe project, they took a group of artists and environmentalists to a remote beach in Cape York and removed 3.1 tonnes of marine debris over six days. Head to their website to see more of their beach clean-ups and other good projects. – cleancoastcollective.org INSTAGRAM Woody Gooch Arguably Australia’s finest young lensman, the Sunshine Coast Surf photographer is becoming internationally known for his considered framing and eye for splashes of light bouncing off intricate detail. Still just at the very beginning of his 20s, he’s a likely…

Gerry Lopez Pipe Guru ...it’s you and your mate and you’re doing some synchronized surfing together. Luke Egan Former World No. 2 ...it’s a relo, pay back or you’re late for work. Peter Townend World Champion ...you’ve been sitting in the line-up for some time and someone paddles up your inside! Noa Deane Nozzle of Nozrabia ...you’re cookin’ a blow-in. Lisa Andersen X4 World Champion ...you’re surfing with your husband and he lets you go in front of him. Taylor Steele Filmmaker ...it’s a party wave.…

Every day I wake up and make stuff. Sometimes I might make a mushroom omlette. Sometimes I might make a hotel out of crayons and cardboard boxes. Sometimes I might make a sad face just so Mylie gives me a cuddle. I make stuff because making stuff is fun. That’s really what this regular column in Surfing World is all about. Except that sometimes I don’t make stuff. Recently the fam and I went over to Bali to get away from winter for a while and I got so busy eating Nasi Goreng, having afternoon pissang massages and shredding perfect lefts on the magical Bukit Peninch that I barely had any time left to make stuff at all. In fact, the only thing I did make…

Power Cover… Dane Kealoha rocking boardies at Bells by Aitionn. Margo Oberg & Lynn Boyer do it for the sisters at Bells ‘78… Sexism dies a slow death, but in Australian surfing, at least, the coffin was well and truly nailed on Easter Sunday. Revelation at the Stubbies... Bertlmann. We’d heard and read all the frenzied appraisals, hype and publicity but as with so many overseas heroes in the past I expected to be disappointed. Not so. For a start his totally committed, radically adventurous surfing, especially when he had so much to lose in the contest, was inspiring and refreshing when compared to the play it safes. Amped up would describe him and his compadre Dane Kealoha to a tee. Jamming their little boards seemingly under the steam of…