Innholdsfortegnelse for Spring - Summer 2019 i SHOWDETAILS MILANO+PARIS+BEST BRANDS

MILANO September 21, 2018 Capucci dipped into the brand’s archive, proposing a collection inspired by the Angel of Gold gown designed by Roberto Capucci in 1987 - a feast of baroque pleats and plissé in a vision of an angel ascending to Heaven. Light silk georgette dresses featured loose sculptural sleeves like wings. Shiny mini-dresses were embellished with irregular pleats and sequins. Archive winged prints were hand-painted on the impalpable surfaces of shirts and dresses in bold tints of purple and turquoise. While some of the looks were for refined, elegant angels of the night, most were for daytime angels. Dresses featured ribbons, bows and delicate bustiers, suits came with sculptural ruffles, overcoats, shirt-dresses and blouses made great daywear in technical taffeta with dabs of colour and jewelled brooches. Capucci…

MILANO September 19, 2018 Fausto Puglisi presented a collection inspired by a mix of inspirations. He celebrated the visual references that have recurred throughout his career. He paid homage to Stephen Burrows, Halston, and Norma Kamali. And Christian Lacroix and Azzedine Alaïa. The colours were intense and brazen. Fuchsia and orange alternated and mixed in a colour vortex that teamed greens and yellows, shocking pink and bold emerald. Lycra dominated in tight stretch dresses with an athletic, sensual allure, with exaggerated splits and gilt embroidery, crystals and rhinestones. Pannier skirts left the legs uncovered. The body was exhibited, wrapped and enhanced in bodices, bustiers and daring bodysuits. Oversize T-shirts were printed with the iconic logo, bright details and “House Puglisi” lettering. A patchwork effect bomber was glam and oversize, bright…

MILANO September 20, 2018 Terre Alte has taken inspiration from an ethnic-urban style to produce a collection of de-structured lines that highlights the brand’s research into volumes, yarns and precious textures. The focal point of the collection is the sun, the emblem of supreme cosmic power. It can be found in different forms: as a jacquard symbol on bombers and jacquard, in sophisticated textures (such as the special ‘plissé soleil’) and in the sheen of gold lurex yarns that give the entire collection a particular splendour. The lines, especially those in the dresses, team comfort with femininity in harmony with contemporary lifestyles. The details, inspired by distant and close cultures, mix with exotic graphics and patterns, while geometric jacquard designs maintain a fluid, dynamic character, making each piece unique. The…

MILANO September 22, 2018 An Vandevorst and Filip Arickx’s brides were immaculate and unconventional. They walked innocently to the alter with a bouquet of flowers and a lace balaclava. Black trousers were worn under a long silky skirt and cycling shorts under a puff sleeved formal mini-dress. Heads were veiled and waists and chests cinched by belts with metal buckles. Trains were asymmetric and tulle flounces slid to the feet, in the vein of deconstructed ceremonial dress. The show depicted the ritual and tradition of mothers passing their wedding gown to their daughters. Vintage dresses were freely reworked, cut and assembled with printed T-shirts, tight jumpsuits and streetwear fabrics. Sweatshirts had lace insets and embroidery. Outfits were embellished with studs and beads. Satin was the main fabric used in all…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Clothes that give a voice to past lives, which cut across the years and memories to reach us. The show referenced a story of exile and silence, the tale of Romanework, daughter of the Negus of Ethiopia, who was married to a commander of the Ethiopian resistance and exiled by Mussolini to the island of Asinara. Antonio Marras dressed a woodland, elegant, emotional and sylvan woman. She is the silent inhabitant of a foreign, arid, uninhabited land. Regal and nostalgic, she dresses in deconstructed parkas covered with feathers. She opts for dark green clothes in a mix of lace, intarsia, floral damasks, tulle camouflage, ruches, fringes, dappled prints, python, and waist-cinching belts. Her minute embroidery is reminiscent of the distant past. She crosses the forest, gathers…

MILANO September 23, 2018 Tradition, devotion and maximalism are embedded in Dolce & Gabbana, which celebrated the family in all its aspects. Mothers, fathers, sons and daughters, grandmothers with grandchildren, husbands and wives paraded hand in hand, wearing clothes with a strong visual impact between glorification and innovation. The clothes ran the gamut of the brand’s repertoire, including lace, brocades, embroidery, crosses, gold medallions, ex voto, tassels, fringes, patches, flounces, bows, crowns, neck scarves and black veils. The show was an explosion of floral prints, Virgin Mary collages, votive statues, maxi polka dots, hearts, animals, dappled textures, scribbles, stars, pupils, and piano notes. Sweatshirts featured Madonnas and invocations of tradition. There was no shortage of fifties looks, waspie dresses and lace slip dresses. Tailored jackets had jewelled lapels. Suits were…

MILANO September 22, 2018 Retro femininity, but no nostalgia. Ermanno Scervino looked to the past, but only to give shape to the future and create new dreams. Poetic and hyper-feminine, the summer collection showed tailoring skill and an instinct for innovation. Knitwear experimented with cable knit and sheen produced by a lacquered treatment. Gutsy pleated leather was paired with tulle layers, or else wrinkled as seen in a double-layer overcoat in military green. Lacquered macramé lace, floral prints, gilded jacquard fabrics and brocades illuminated the runway. White shone in a light calfskin shirt with a vintage feel, airy tulle skirts, impalpable mini-dresses, and an ironically scribbled suit. Outerwear was borrowed from menswear and given a romantic twist. Evening dresses featured lots of ruffles and ruches, a long train and a…

MILANO September 22, 2018 Gabriele Colangelo chose colour. Electric blue, ultramarine, cobalt, indigo and cerulean. His minimal aesthetic was oriented towards pigment, harmoniously teaming rigour and artistic experimentation. He drew inspiration from a painting technique called pliage. Created by artist Simon Hantaï, it involves pleating the canvas before painting it to produce a threedimensional texture. The designer used it to produce very abstract motifs and haphazard geometry. The randomness of the colour was a sign of uniqueness and authenticity. A cotton suit revealed the elegance of the painted weaves and the different shades of colour. Chiffon dresses were finely pleated yet retained a feminine, breezy look. Obi belts cinched the waist. Shirts and blazers came in very refined shapes. Flashes of gold appeared on dresses and double-breasted coats. Trenches highlighted…

MILANO September 19, 2018 Jil Sander moulded a conceptual, plain, intellectual collection. With a focus on experimentation. The core inspiration was uniforms and workwear, worn every day, sportswear, from boxers to ballerinas, and art smocks. The clothes designed by Luke and Lucie Meier had the tenacity of day-in-dayout training, work and discipline, but with a touch of delicacy and expressive freedom. They were understated. The codes of rigour and minimalism and purity of form were all there. Structured suits and defined volumes. Loose, asymmetric, fluid tunics with slits and transparencies. Knit pieces were closefitting and athletic. Cuffs were large and shaped. Zips were refined. Necklines were deep. Fine lines sketched out female nudes or marked out empty frames on the fabrics. Elegance and sensitivity produced a quiet yet determined attitude…

MILANO September 20, 2018 Timeless women. Inheritors of distant legends. Protagonists of epic tales and contemporary stories. They are inspired by the Odyssey and read “The Penelopiad” by Margaret Atwood and “Circe” by Madeline Miller. They are modern Amazonians and travellers. They are the daughters of Ulysses and Poseidon. They love the colours of the desert and the ocean. They cover their head, dress in layers, and pair a skirt with trousers. They choose shaped trenches, waxed raincoats and sharp suits. Their style is formal, minimal and rigorous. But it also includes feminine details: sinuous ruffles, ruches, polka dot prints, black organza gloves. Pencil skirts and one-shoulder tops are moulded to the body in leather and patent similar to friezes of Doric or Corinthian columns and have asymmetric draping. Ian…

MILANO September 21, 2018 A dreamy instinct and attitude. MSGM travels in a suspended time between sleep and wakefulness. Massimo Giorgetti composed a visionary, delicate, ethereal collection. An enchanted garden took shape in fluid, sleek, impalpable, jersey dresses. Buds, petals and blossom were printed in shades of rose, azalea, coral and amaranth. They spread over skinny trousers, tight crew neck knits, and romantic and pop outfits. Sheer trenches, jackets and trousers featured the same prints, as though dawn were slowly chasing our dreams away. One-shoulder dresses were asymmetric with irregular draping, pleats and light plissé. Poetic and light, they featured bold expanses of vermilion, black and emerald. Knitwear was emblazoned with intarsia letters reading “dream” and “REM”. Denim cardigans and coats had tie-dye effects reminiscent of the nineties. A highly…

MILANO September 22, 2018 Philosophy di Lorenzo Serafini took a trip to calm serenity in shades of sand, turtle-dove, camel and clear skies. Kaftans, tunics and djellaba were ideal for a trip to the desert. Long, lightweight robes suitable for walking on the dunes. In dark or light tints, they featured transparencies, fringes, polka dots, flounces, needlework and passementerie. Nautical prints and stripes came in turquoise. Knots and rope belts cinched the waist. Mini-dresses featured puff sleeves, deep V necklines and Victorian ruches. Python featured heavily in the collection, in relaxed shorts and trousers and ruffled tops. Bombers and mini-dresses had snakeskin patterns. Other materials were leather, suede, linen and natural fabrics. There were also dinner jacket bib fronts, chenille jumpsuits, and crystal-covered dresses like shimmers in the Saharan skies.…

MILANO September 22, 2018 Between workwear and elegance. Functionality and luxury. Salvatore Ferragamo composed a work aesthetic. The brand presented a practical collection with clean lines and no frills or excess. The focus was on tailoring and comfort: gilets, shirts, blazers, dungarees, trenches, garments with handy pockets, belts, metal press studs. Some of the pieces referenced the decisive yet discreet style of the Forties. Versatile leather and suede were paired with satin and chiffon. Each piece came in neutral shades of beige, turtle-dove, café noir and black. Later, the palette lit up with more intense, vivid tints. A sea blue trench, a shocking pink suit worn with a bright red shirt, a lilac shirt, a fluid purple dress, and an orange overcoat. Archive prints of plant motifs were reworked in…

MILANO September 24, 2018 Rock and romanticism are the key concepts in the new collection from upcoming brand Ultràchic, which brought colour to the Milan Fashion Week runways supported by the National Chamber for Italian Fashion. The show paid homage to music with pop/rock icons from Elvis Presley to Jimi Hendrix printed on dresses and skirts. It was a journey through the wonderful ’60s and kaleidoscopic ’70s to the excesses of the ’80s. Dresses in iridescent, almost psychedelic, colours took us on an irreverent magical mystery tour of fashion. Silk, shaded neon mikado, open work and laminated textures were merged in an extravagant, urban mix. Ruches, appliqués and sequins were some of the elements used to embellish jackets, dresses, shirts, skirts and shorts. The ‘Calamity Jane’ bag in brightly-coloured mirrored…

NEW YORK September 12, 2018 Jason Wu freely admitted that he chose to present his collection off the runway because he was “very tired”. He felt the need to work in the atelier and these 16 looks were the result of the time he carved out for himself in the studio. The 16 midi and long dresses, including some pinstripe frocks trimmed in black lace, recalled Wu’s tailoring experience at Boss, while other asymmetric offerings were patchworked from laces the designer has used over the years. Bodices were fitted and skirts fluid, except for a navy blue sheath with a ruffled neckline and a black one with a split and jewel appliqués on the shoulders. The designer’s latest work was a clear, measured response to so much improbable, undone fashion.…

NEW YORK September 12, 2018 A plush white carpet, faux yellow sunlight and vintage TVs playing grainy video of oceans, hay fields and sunsets was the scene Francesco Fucci set inside a Chelsea gallery for his Theory collection. A former member of the team at The Row, he is aiming to express a similar sense of clean, relaxed luxury. The clothes fell precisely down the body in clean, almost austere shapes softened only by the yellow, ivory and red colours reminiscent of the designer’s youthful holidays on the Mediterranean. The already vertical silhouette was further elongated by long dresses and soft trousers worn with tunics or tube skirts, straight shirts worn outside the trousers, straight overcoats and some visible underwear. Un morbido tappeto bianco, un finto sole giallo e televisori…

NEW YORK June 4, 2018 With this collection Alexander Wang marked a new beginning and a new identity in his career as a designer, as he wrote in the show notes. He wanted to convey that he has ‘come back home’, where ‘home’ is understood as being family, origin and roots. So many designers include personal references and family experiences in their collections. Wang had not yet done so. Perhaps that’s what he means by a ‘new beginning’. The collection was a melting pot of American culture, as seen by the designer as a teenager, so there were Axl Rose bandanas and cropped perfecto jackets, football jerseys, leather shorts and mini-skirts with branded belts, bombers and sweatshirts. Surgical masks decorated with studs and safety pins recalled street gangs while oversize…

NEW YORK September 12, 2018 ‘Jaws’ and ‘The Graduate’ are two very different films, but Raf Simons for Calvin Klein chose them both as inspiration for this new collection because they have both left an indelible mark on his memory. The ‘Jaws’ poster featured on T-shirts and tanks worn with and without a tailored jacket topped with rubber harnesses and paired with miniskirts that resembled the top of a scuba diving suit. Harnesses appeared again over two-dimensional printed cocktail dresses complete with jewelled brooch over the bow fastening, while circle skirts paired with chunky knits had shark-bite cut-outs. The more literal reference to ‘The Graduate’ had the models wearing mortarboards and graduation gowns as a coat. ‘Lo squalo’ e ‘Il laureato’, due pellicole diversissime tra loro ma che Raf Simons…

NEW YORK September 8, 2018 Tender is the night for Custo Barcelona’s woman, who comes to life after the sun goes down and chooses silvery reflections on technical fabrics. The show’s title, ‘After Sun’, perfectly suited the collection of asymmetric mini-party dresses that featured not only metallic shiny surfaces but also holographic sequins, geometric prints, translucent patches, cheeky cut-outs and zigzags. The nocturnal animal par excellence, the owl, featured in metallic patchwork appliqués, often edged in fringes, which were another frequent embellishment. The predominant gold and silver were accompanied by neon pink, lavender, red, yellow and sea blue, emphasised by glossy texture effects. Tenera è la notte per la donna di Custo Barcelona, che vive sostanzialmente dopo il tramonto del sole, vestendosi di riflessi argentati su tessuti techno. Quindi, sì,…

NEW YORK September 7, 2018 Nicola Glass’s first stint as creative director was a new beginning and a tribute to the brand’s founder Kate Spade, who tragically passed away in June this year. Glass aimed to keep Kate and Andy Spade’s spirit by drawing inspiration from their archive, reworking the brand’s spade symbol, artfully hiding it in prints and intarsias. Fluidity was another element the designer kept, applying it to overcoats and the few trousers on show, calf-length jeans with button fastening worn with light pussy bow blouses and cropped knits. The mainly hand-held bags harked back to Kate Spade’s early models, with stacked spades constructing a basket or doubling as a closure. Un nuovo inizio che è insieme un tributo quello che va in scena sulla prima passerella di…

NEW YORK June 5, 2018 21 looks made for grown-up women who are neither millennial It girls nor trend fanatics, just lovers of good cuts and materials. These are the women Narciso Rodriguez sets out to win over with this complete collection ranging from tailored daywear to cocktail sheaths with graphic, three-dimensional embroidery and asymmetric elegance for the evening. In black and white with splashes of red and olive green, comfortable overcoats and long blazers were worn over shirts with asymmetric collars, the longest of which was shot through with metal eyelets. Draped geometric tops were embellished with metallic decorations, while fit-and-flare dresses falling to the knee or below had imperceptible pleats for added movement. Everything came with stiletto heels. 21 look fatti per donne adulte che non sono né…

NEW YORK September 7, 2018 “Your designs define an unwavering integrity, and that is why we are here tonight.” This was Oprah Winfrey’s moving message to Ralph Lauren, who is celebrating 50 years in business, a historic anniversary commemorating the father of American sportswear and a brand as iconic as Coca-Cola. The anniversary show featured the iconic looks that have made the brand great over the decades, from military style outerwear to checked flannel shirts over fluid velvet dresses, from embroidered sweaters, one bearing the designer’s image, to tweed tailoring and deluxe patchwork for evening wear. The details, opulent, sparkling baroque jewellery and big western belts, widebrimmed hats and knit beanies, all spoke of insurmountable American style. “Le tue creazioni definiscono un’integrità incrollabile, ed è per questo che siamo qui…

SHANGHAI September 4, 2018 Tommy Hilfiger showed his collection in Shanghai because, as he said backstage, “Someone once told me to go to where your customers are.” And since the brand is in partnership with Tmall, the e-commerce giant owned by Alibaba, and each piece is immediately shoppable in China, it made sense for the American sportswear icon to travel to the far north of the Huangpu River, which cuts through the centre of the city. The show was packed with easy, highly saleable pieces, from tracksuits in bold colours with contrasting bands worn with sliders and branded socks to matching bra tops, bombers, parkas, patchwork shirts, hooded sweatshirts, polo shirts, blazers and sailor stripes worn with cargo trousers. Everything came in the brand’s unmistakable red, white and blue, with…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Au jour le jour’s presentation had an Eighties feel: accentuated shoulders, glossy decorated mini-dresses, sequinned fabrics. Mirko Fontana and Diego Marquez were inspired by Italian variety and evening TV shows. This produced a sparkling, hyper-feminine collection with cocktail and dancing dresses ramped up to the max. Big ruffles embellished the shoulders, emphasising the volumes like sculptures. Asymmetry played with draping. A plain black sheath had large flower-shaped brooches and a fuchsia drape highlighting one shoulder. The dresses were embellished with lots of metallic decorations, dyed synthetic feathers, silver encrustations, fanshaped embroidery and sequins. Taffeta, satin, georgette and lurex made up the broad range of materials, while tropical prints with a pop style included parrots and exotic animals, fish, panthers and palm fronds. The palette was pink,…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Dondup embraced simplicity. Lines were tamed. Made more formal and less rebellious. Colour was reduced to black and white. Menswear classics were revisited and made more feminine, playing with combinations. Double-breasted blazers came in pinstripe, midnight black or total white. Linear and defined. White shirts were given loose, gathered sleeves with wide open cuffs. One was topped with a black waistcoat with fringed edges. Denim was given a rock injection with a pair of ripped, hyper-decorated jeans, a raw-edged mini-skirt with a tulle overlay, and sleeveless jackets, while slogan T-shirts featured black and white lettering. Blouses and jumpsuits had romantic pussy bows and were printed with lunar motifs, meridians and parallels. A long white evening dress with understated, refined lines left the back uncovered. Dondup semplifica…

MILANO September 23, 2018 Manuel Facchini moulded a sensual, futuristic collection. The traditional epaulettes on military garments were given shiny metallic drops and sparkling appliqués. They lit up an all-black double-breasted jacket and a dazzling white dress with a sky high split. Fringes of shiny bugle beads fluttered on the hems of mini-dresses. Dresses were trimmed with decorative motifs that repeated hypnotically, like the elements of a mysterious gear. The collection was entitled “Divine device”, which revealed its gothic, rock soul with a strong focus on devices and mechanisms in bold black, red and white. Leather was perforated in a geometric game of shadows and surfaces. Vinyl biker jackets were like new body shields. Trousers were skinny like a second skin. The aesthetic of devices was expressed in the clothes…

MILANO September 20, 2018 The reassuring feeling of standing out with personality. Wearing comfortable, classically cut clothes reworked in a modern and never banal style, materials that follow the body shape like a soft caress. A harmony of premium leathers, worked by the very best craftsmen, caress everyday life with style, comfort and a feeling of protection. The new 2019 Spring/Summer collection from The Gregory daringly and confidently mixes a boundless future with the flavour of the past in an authentic dialogue. Silk-soft calfskin, lambskin as delicate as lace that lets through the sun’s rays to illuminate hand-painted silk and linen floral linings. Every detail is unique, carefully selected to make each piece one of a kind and peerless. A return to traditions mixed with a desire to look fearlessly…

MILANO September 19, 2018 Lightness, evanescence and levity are in Alberta Ferretti’s DNA. Her latest romantic collection included all three and added some urban, casual influences too. Lightness: blouses and mini-dresses had maxi ruffles, flounces and perforations in white broderie anglaise fabrics with airy puff or bubble sleeves, soft volumes and bows tied at the waist. Evanescence: the clothes came in pale rainbow hues and featured clear transparencies and delicate surfaces in chiffon, plissé, tricot mesh, crochet and lace tinged with dark, mysterious colours. Levity: airy, voluminous jumpsuits, oversize trenches, multi-pocketed bombers, overall, bermuda shorts, canvas, denim and cotton, XXL aviation suits - for daring, fearless women ready to take flight. The palette was a breeze of delicate nuances, including pink, sky blue and pastel green. Leggerezza, evanescenza, lievità sono…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Athletic poetry for Blumarine. The dream-like, romantic atmosphere that always surrounds Anna Molinari’s work has gained a sporty twist. Ideal for a dreaming yet sporty woman who is not afraid of contrasts and wants to wear unexpected combinations. Elasthane and chiffon were confidently paired. Athleisure was the overall mood. Cycling shorts and sports bra tops in neon orange, blue and highlighter green were a must. These were layered under airy, sheer, fluid dresses. Lustrous, python overcoats, satin jackets and macramé shirts were worn over tighter, sportier pieces. White elastic trimmed both sportswear and dresses similar to contemporary peplums. Cycling shorts, tops and briefs were tinged with lilac and worn under glossy fringed cloaks, and floral embroidery dresses with crystals and ruffles. Poesia atletica per Blumarine. L’atmosfera…

MILANO June 17, 2018 Dsquared2 chose a dynamic military style with disco and techno references. The collection was a mixture of sporty influences, streetwear and the Nineties. All with a more seductive appeal. Lingerie was destructured. Corsets and bodices were deconstructed and teamed with street pieces or romantic dresses with trains. Gilet-bustiers were paired with cargo trousers and layered over a military green top or gathered mini or long loose dresses. Bib fronts in khaki or neon tints were tied at the neck and chest, or left open with long hanging cords. Zips and straps defined the shapes. Shirts, jackets and bombers had iridescent holographic patches. A colour-block windbreaker was oversize with multi-purpose pockets. Nylon and silk came with camouflage textures, floral motifs and flashes of highlighter colours. Dsquared2 sceglie…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Etro paid homage to the ocean. The brand mixed bohemian culture with oriental spirituality. The California coast with Japanese horizons. The waves and the tides. “Pacific Zen” was an eclectic and joyful collection. The dresses featured paisley prints, joyous vibrations, sunrise pale pink and turquoise and sunset grapefruit, mandarin and lime. Floral print Japanese kimonos, Hawaiian mini-dresses and exotic kaftans featured in the show. But also one-piece swimsuits, bikinis, turbans, surfboards, towels and skateboards. Knitwear was snug fitting and similar to diving wetsuits. Tropical-style jackets came in neoprene. Patchwork effect cloaks covered the shoulders in waves. Overcoats were quilted. Fringes, tassels, flounces, shell jewellery, pearls, and crystals embellished the looks. Martial arts belts cinched the waist. An exotic lightness was teamed with premium materials, damask fabrics,…

MILANO September 22, 2018 The future is neon: Giuliano Calza, creative director of GCDS, showed a dystopian reflection with a nod to a hyper-colourful future. Techno culture provided the mood against a backdrop of green plastic. The brand’s more underground spirit turned psychedelic thanks to a collaboration with Pokémon. Elemental green, orange and shocking pink colours were bold, intense and cartoonish. Glittery knit pieces featured the shapes of fantastical creatures or imaginary manga characters. Space suits were metallic and reflective with prints, logos, lettering and numbers. Tops, mini-dresses, miniskirts and cycling shorts came in highlighter colours. A mould-green bodysuit, a split suit, and army-style jackets were uniforms with a military attitude. A technical fabric outfit with a camouflage design was topped with sparkling floral motifs in pink rhinestones. Un futuro…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Marco de Vincenzo paid homage to an eccentric American aunt who visited him in Messina when he was a boy. Childhood memories pervaded the collection. The clothes and accessories explored USA style, but Sicily remained the primary inspiration. Black retro lingerie and pop-socks recalled the island’s aesthetic and were glimpsed under romantic, sensual lace dresses in pink tones. Shiny Charleston dresses were covered with bright fringes and cascades of multi-coloured sequins. Midi length skirts with delicate plissé were paired with oversize sweatshirts and polo shirts featuring ironic images of pet toys. The prints were playful, pop and optical, with maxi portraits of animals, poodles and lambs. A series of all-black looks were edged in multi-coloured crystals. Sicily was also represented with large cross necklaces. Bags featuring…

MILANO September 22, 2018 Missoni’s style knows no bounds, limitations or barriers. For next summer, it paid homage to a mixture of culture and tailoring to celebrate the brand’s 65th birthday. The show was an ideal trip around the world. It wove threads together like horizons, coastlines, mountaintops and stories. It created links and weaves, like an intersection of worlds. Denim was knitted. Long woven cashmere cardigans wrapped around the figure, protecting from the summer breeze. Soft knits, intarsia coordinates, ethereal and rarefied kimonos, light fluid bed jackets, and beaded mesh tunics all conveyed an ineffable, transparent and light elegance. Soft, ethereal dresses came in pale, muted, pearly shades of green, lilac and indigo. Glossy lurex threads added brightness to the surfaces. Zigzag motifs, stripes, flounces, patchwork effects, leaves fluttering…

MILANO September 19, 2018 Alessandro Dell’Acqua celebrated the art of dressing. No complications, prints or frills. Nothing reminiscent of a baroque aesthetic. N°21’s summer season is a mix of couture and hi-tech. Sheaths, mini-dresses, tight pencil skirts and vinyl skirts played with materials. Premium fabrics - faille, taffeta, gazar, cady, duchesse and chiffon - added grace to the silhouette. They were used to make cocktail dresses but also more casual pieces, such as sophisticated anoraks and outerwear, in a mix of experimentations. The couture dresses were made from unforeseeable materials: shine-coated chiffon, artificial ostrich skin and hi-tech fabrics. A coat came in multiprene, a material normally used for bra cups. There was no shortage of ribbons, bows, gathers and shine. Slip dresses were festooned with sequins while plainer dresses were…

MILANO September 20, 2018 Conservatism and absolute freedom. Miuccia Prada forged a bon-ton collection with an injection of psychedelia. Satin skirts were flared and came in techno fuchsia, orange and acid green. Little nylon coats had classic lines. Cashmere sweaters worn over neat white shirt collars were paired with Sixties-style minidresses in black leather. Dresses were short and A-lined with deep necklines held by elastic bands under the bust. Chiffon transparencies revealed the all-white underwear beneath. Biker trousers were worn with sheer knee-high socks. Prada showed classic and irreverent, formal and hallucinogenic clothes. In a mix of oversize sequins, crystals, spatial prints, chain graphics, tie-dye patterns, illustrations of urban landscapes, human shapes, bows, polka dots, little buttons and studs. A contrasting aesthetic for a rave-bourgeois style. Conservatorismo e libertà assoluta.…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Sportmax focused on surfwear. The brand showed hyper-dynamic clothes suitable for catching the perfect wave, gliding over calm waters and anticipating wind currents. Jackets covered the shoulders to protect from sea breezes. Dresses were long and body-con with a sporty appeal, dotted with sequins and ergonomic stripes. Pencil skirts and shorts were paired with sweatshirts or wetsuits. Mini-dresses resembled scuba diving gear, with windproof jackets tied around the waist. Tailored outfits came with an athleisure twist. Transparencies had the consistency of water. The raincoat was a mix of cotton and nylon. The parka was doubleface, monochromatic or striped. Swimsuits were crocheted. Zips and elastic cords added a gutsy touch to the looks. Prints and graphics were reminiscent of surfboards. Jersey dresses had a more refined side,…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Nineties seduction. But also gypsy influences and a hippy vibe. Donatella Versace showed gutsiness, colour and electricity. It was all about “Maximalism”. Prints were a mix of dappled elements, multi-coloured polka dots, and neon florals. Baroque and showy in a triumph of stripes, buds and logos. The silhouettes were sculpted in a play of draping and enveloping fabrics. Asymmetric dresses, airy skirts with deep splits, and Seventies-style flared trousers with ruches and ruffles. Suits, pencil skirts, outerwear and trenches were cut in leather, vinyl and python. The palette was bold, from neon yellow to elemental blue with touches of vermilion and turquoise. A belted suit with gold buttons and one-shoulder evening dresses in sleek satin came in midnight black. The brand’s signature metal mesh was painted…

NEW YORK September 11, 2018 First Paris, Provence, Marrakech, Positano, Careyes, Tokyo, and finally ‘Wonderland’, which is the title of the collection by Stacey Bendet, who loves taking her audience on imaginary trips using spectacular vignettes. Naturally, the clothes were suitable for the trip. Bold floral or ethnic patterns, in vibrant graphic or monochrome colours, with lots of beading and appliqués. There’s definitely no chance of the Stacey Bendet girl getting bored. Not content with so much colour, she also opts for a highlighter yellow jacket for chillier nights and extends the colour to total looks in a cocktail dress or a more casual knit and skinny jeans or palazzo pants outfit. A long skirt was decorated with an image of the Eiffel Tower, a monument that is another wonder…

NEW YORK September 6, 2018 Moving away from the catwalk to focus on ‘wardrobing’, i.e. practical clothes that cover day to evening wear and accessories. Like other brands, Rag & Bone is taking a step towards clarity, presenting a range of interchangeable knits, sweatshirts, high-waist jeans and military pieces worn with high-heeled suede or python boots. Silky pyjama-suits resembled tracksuits, the classic beige trench came in red, a tailored corduroy suit came in mauve, while camouflage also appeared in red suede. The accessories were also comfortable and versatile, ranging from a leather bag that unfastens to pack flat and classic white sneakers with vulcanized soles. Allontanarsi dalla passerella per fare ‘wardrobing’ ovvero rinnovo del guardaroba in senso pratico e lungimirante, dal daywear alla sera agli accessori; come altri brand, anche…

NEW YORK September 4, 2018 Zac Posen staged his latest collection outside the red carpet, in a world of beaches, unmade beds, gardens and verandas, a more natural and spontaneous setting starring Maya Hawke, the 20-year-old Stranger Things actress, who wears red carpet and everyday beach or countryside clothes like cropped tops, floral blouses and skirts, and very vintage swimsuits. Shot by Gia Coppola, a friend of the designer, the images have a retro yet instant feel that uses lighting and setting cleverly to make even the most elegant dresses look wearable and real. They include a peachcoloured princess gown, an empire line dress in three layers of pastel lace, and a green bustier dress with floral appliqués. Beautiful clothes made to look as if they were within reach of…

NEW YORK September 10, 2018 Anna Sui always chooses niche references as her inspiration. For next summer, she chose ‘Kismet’, the 1955 adventure musical set in ancient Baghdad that reproduces an epic grand bazaar scene in Spring Studios. Cleverly, Sui did not just bring turbans, bright colours and bold patterns to the runway; she also mixed them with ‘universal’ details from other contexts, such as the outdoors with Teva sandals with platforms and socks, westerns with fringed cowboy shirts, sportswear with tracksuits and sporty bands, and beachwear with swimsuits and shorts. The result was a series of truly eye-catching looks that nodded to every age bracket whilst simultaneously opening up to the widely varying, melting pot that is today’s world. Anna Sui sceglie sempre per le sue ispirazioni i riferimenti…

NEW YORK September 10, 2018 There’s been a change of guard at Carolina Herrera. Wes Gordon made his début as creative director of the long-standing brand after working alongside its founder for a year and a half. The most important lesson Gordon learned in that time is that “happy people make happy clothes”. And with the blessing of Herrera herself, the young designer presented a collection that nodded to the younger generation, with wraparound mini-skirts worn with a classic white shirt, floral and polka dot cropped tops and mini-dresses. Long-time clients may prefer the longer hemlines, which came in the same bold tints of orange, red, yellow and green used even for the evening wear. Cambio di guardia sulla passerella di Carolina Herrera, con Wes Gordon che debutta alla direzione…

NEW YORK September 9, 2018 After years of low-key presentations, Escada returned to the runway to celebrate 40 years since being founded by Margaretha and Wolfgang Ley in Munich, Germany. The brand’s current owner, Indian businesswoman Megha Mittal is determined to return the brand to its former glory, i.e. the ’80s when the corporate power woman emerged in suits and shoulder pads, as in the film ‘Working Girl’. Niall Sloan demonstrated all this in his collection. In addition to masculine suits with pencil skirts, there were also oversize shirts partly tucked into soft trousers and skirts of various lengths, long dresses decorated with stripes, polka dots or floral motifs. The bright colour palette included glossy fuchsia, red, yellow and green as well as neutrals and pastels. Bumbags and chain belts…

NEW YORK September 12, 2018 Marc Jacobs, now 55, was a fashion-mad teenager and in this collection he showed everything he has loved over the years since then. He referenced ’80s-era Yves Saint Laurent and Karl Lagerfeld’s earliest days at Chanel but also his own archive, taking everything to extremes as though the decade in question were not excessive enough. So, giant Pierrot collars exploded under little bouclé jackets and tailored blazers with oversize shoulders paired with loose trousers with high waist and darts, wide sash belts with big flowers, and puffed-up feathery dresses. Veiled hats, ruched tops, silky overcoats, lurex tights and pastel or metallic colours created an infinite game of extravagant couture. Marc Jacobs, che oggi ha 55 anni, andava già pazzo per la moda da adolescente e…

NEW YORK September 11, 2018 Adapting to the times. That’s what the Oscar de la Renta brand has done since its founder passed away, with Laura Kim and Fernando Garcia who, in just two years, have revolutionised the label with a relaxed, artsy approach, especially when it comes to evening wear. This collection had a clear exotic feel produced by sarong-style dresses and skirts edged with fringes and fastened with tasselled belts, striped kaftans worn over trousers, ikat motifs and other ethnic patterns. The creative duo said that the red floral embroidery, seen on some of the overcoats and dresses, was taken from a vintage de la Renta show, while a patchwork scarf print was sourced from a textile mill in Como that archives the late designer’s fabrics, but the…

NEW YORK September 9, 2018 The Mulleavy sisters at Rodarte chose an emblematic location, the Marble Cemetery, for their return to the New York runways after two years away. One of the city’s oldest cemeteries, it provided a beautiful backdrop in the East Village near Manhattan. Walking through the wrought iron gates, you are plunged into another era well suited to the multi-coloured lace dresses packed with flounces and ruches parading amongst the graves and flowerbeds. With flowers in their hair and veiled headpieces on their heads, Rodarte’s girls looked straight out of an Edith Wharton novel, or else a fairy tale so immersed were they in clouds of tulle, metallic capes, cascades of flowers and satin bows around the waist. They were dream-like brides, but also fairies or spirits…

NEW YORK September 7, 2018 Travel and distant worlds, far removed from Manhattan’s skyscrapers. On a path between hedges, flowers and plants, not a new location for Tory Burch, young models paraded in long fluid dresses, the shortest of which fell to just below the knee, in a reference to the clothes the designer’s mother, Reva Robinson, used to wear on her Europe trips. Airy tunics, softly belted shirt-dresses and tabard-skirt pieces with contrasting macramé insets alternated with safari suits with loose trousers and neck scarf printed looks. Everything was worn with large straw hats, striped blanket scarves and handbags of various sizes and styles. At the end of the show, Tory Burch stopped to kiss and hug her mum, Reva, in the audience, confirming her as her muse for…

BABYLON, AN EXPANDING EMPIRE / BABYLON, UN IMPERO IN ESPANSIONE Launched as a way of being, a lifestyle, more than just a clothing brand, Babylon has come a long way since 1984. Founded by Bruno Morreale, who is now assisted by his son and daughter Luca and Sara, the brand reinterprets the contemporary woman’s style, creating three different lines that team luxury, originality and femininity. Its presentations at Milan Fashion Week attracted a lot of attention from the public, and it even made an appearance on the red carpet at the last Venice Film Festival. Designers Keddy Frahm, Ana Paula Rocha and Monica Rossi dressed a number of show business personalities for the occasion: from Italian actress Paola Cortellesi to Argentine model Valentina Di Paola, as well as Emanuela Grimalda,…

MILANO September 22, 2018 The Bally women have been visiting the Rose Bowl Flea Market in Pasadena, California. Picking up ideas and souvenirs from the stalls. This collection reflected their love of vintage pieces with a contemporary attitude. A soft shearling coat had a retro feel and a leather trench had a defined shape and belted waist. More relaxed, hooded versions had tone on tone zips and came in bright green or red. There was also a tartan raincoat, double-breasted jackets and soft bombers. Mini-dresses, polo shirts and shorts were made from towelling in emerald or peach and white stripes. Zip pullers sported the “B” for Bally. A soft, white knit was paired with loose drawstring trousers with side bands. Sneakers or gold sandals were reminiscent of the Nineties. A…

MILANO September 20, 2018 The Emilio Pucci spirit tinged with lightness and a hint of tropical flavour. A journey amongst Caribbean colours and lights. The shapes were relaxed and free. The colours were joyful. The clothes were mainly asymmetric, fluid and long. Pieces tied at the front, left the shoulders bare, featured splits, and cords tied at the waist. Shirt-dresses had billowy drapes with neck scarf prints and plissé insets. Midi-length skirts were bright, beaded and fringed, the latter also fluttering at the hems. Mini-skirts were paired with hyper-feminine double-breasted jackets. Prints dominated the collection. They included iconic decorations, multi-coloured swirls, geometry, bold and bright colour labyrinths. Tradition was followed and transformed. The names were new: Villa, Shell, Rivera. Innovation came in the form of two-colour effects on pleats with…

MILANO September 22, 2018 Africa provided the inspiration for the new Shirtaporter collection, which took us to distant lands, tribes and unspoiled nature. From giraffes to tropical flowers, flora and fauna were the key features here. Tradition mixed with modernity to team animal and safari prints with denim and geometric stripes. Colours ranged from the warm earthy tones typical of the Savannah to brighter, more eccentric and extravagant tints with a contemporary pop character. The fabrics expressed the lightness of winds over the plains, using silk and cotton muslin to take full advantage of long fluid dresses and light tunics. Flounces, bows and draping completed the looks, for a woman with an adventurous nature who does not want to sacrifice her femininity. L’Africa è l’ispirazione. Con la sua nuova collezione,…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Like a skilled sculptor, Goga Ashkenazi showed contemporary peplums filled with poetry, grace and measure. The column dresses in the show were monuments to femininity, celebrating the levity and elegance of silk tulle with a quiet, romantic style. Pleated fabric moulded and veiled the body. Bodices were finely draped in a new classical style, inspired by ancient Greece but located firmly in the present day. Suits were fluid and airy in technical taffeta with soft pockets, hanging straps or shaded prints. Unexpected details gave the silhouette a new touch: parachute belts cinched the waist, perfectly in line with the colour palette of the dresses. The palette featured diaphanous skin tones but also shades of stone grey, antique pink and Peloponnese sand. With touches of fuchsia, black…

MILANO September 19, 2018 The grace of Antonio Canova, marble, whiteness. Alberto Zambelli polished surfaces, allowing the purity of absolute white to emerge in all of its varieties. Its qualities changed depending on whether organza, silk, shantung, cotton or viscose was used. A dazzling, liquid, milky white. Or else opaque, like chalk, lime or alabaster, a mixture of stone and water. Metallic reflections and silver brushstrokes shone on latex and techno-silver garments. Alberto Zambelli sculpted the clothes in sinuous, draping lines. He produced kimono and egg-shaped dresses, fluid tunics, dresses with very long sleeves, stiff blouses with deep V-necklines, gathered mini-dresses, crystalline cloaks with giant buttons. He moulded puckered transparencies and sculptural ruffles. Floral traces were like silvery lace. Prints of Antonio Canova’s work, fragments of diaphanous sheen, white marble.…

MILANO September 23, 2018 “Flemish Revolution” travelled between the Netherlands and California. It oscillated between rigour and freedom. Order and disorder. Retro elegance and urban style. Cristiano Burani showed a new interpretation of Flemish portraiture: austerity mixed with street style. Plain suits were paired with handembroidered high crochet collars reminiscent of antique ruffs. Finer fabrics were given graphic effects and abstract motifs created using innovative treatments. Fluorescent touches and tie-dye effects invaded velvet and silk satin dresses that were long and draped, knotted and asymmetric. Pale-coloured coats were given oversize zips. Taffeta and chiffon had a crushed look. Denim featured brushstrokes of colour. Volumes were defined, shoulders oversize and waistlines accentuated. The palette ranged from white to black, with touches of lilac and neon flashes of fuchsia, lime green and…

MILANO September 20, 2018 Emporio Armani’s summer show took off with impalpable dresses in soft neutral shades of turtle-dove, pale pink and stone grey. The setting was Linate airport, the first time it has been used to stage a fashion show. Fluid, soft, airy and sophisticated clothes were the order of the day. The looks featured reflections and shimmers, silk was lustrous, tops and bombers iridescent and trenches python printed. Denim overalls, in transparent organza or pinstripe fabric, came in dark blue tints. But Giorgio Armani’s aesthetic really took off when bright, energetic tints of electric blue, fuchsia and acid green came into play. Nylon raincoats had a spacelike sheen. High-waist, loose, airy trousers had cascades of fringes and vertical bands to give a sporty touch. Tops and mini-dresses featured…

MILANO September 20, 2018 The pocket was the key element in Fendi’s summer collection. Functional and poetic, it contains, conceals and stores secrets and little everyday essentials. Karl Lagerfeld and Silvia Venturini Fendi highlighted its expressive power and refined character. Multi-purpose clothes featured XXL, loose, puffy pockets in leather with a raised brand logo in tone on tone colour. Pockets appeared on trenches, PVC raincoats, fur outerwear, knitwear, denim bombers, blazers, drop shouldered shirts, body-con mini-dresses and cargo trousers. Functional belts, like elegant bumbags, were teamed with pleated midi-length skirts or athleisure biker trousers in neoprene and scuba fabric. Lighter, airier dresses featured floral embroidery, prints and organza, expressing a soft yet gutsy femininity in earthy dark brown, forest green and bright orange. Tasca, sostantivo femminile, elemento del vestiario, protagonista…

MILANO September 23, 2018 Sea creatures, sirens in organza and chiffon. The Giorgio Armani collection shimmered with iridescent elegance in metallic grey, soft blue and powder pink. The summer season is liquid. The collection was an ode to fresh and salt water. Dresses fluctuated like waves. Shapes were understated and light. Embroidery, plissé and fringes in oceanic colours provided the decoration. A smooth parka came in soft stone and ice shades. Tunics featured glossy encrustations and maxi sequins similar to fish scales. Sheer trousers were topped with opalescent veils knotted at the waist like refined sarongs. Plexiglas bustiers played with reflections over tiered and pleated skirts. Suits were soft and relaxed. Light, ethereal cloaks covered the shoulders. Watercolour brushstrokes coloured the clothes periwinkle, cobalt, aqua green and fuchsia. Creature marine,…

MILANO September 23, 2018 Clothing and hybridization, spontaneous assemblies. The show was a changing, multiform experience, an artist’s laboratory, a metamorphosing atelier. Francesco Risso is a modern Dr Frankenstein, shaping new Olympian gods using poetry and experimentation. He brought the daughters of the Venus de Milo to the runway. They wore draped dresses with contemporary peplums, prints, gathers, fine shapes, asymmetry, skin-revealing segments, sequins, crystals, chains and stones. These mythological and revolutionary creatures were covered in disorderly prints and collages, images of ancient statues, sculptures, cut-outs and polka dots in a mix of references ranging from classical to naïf. Naiads, nymphs and Nereids wore little coats hand-painted with dabs of paint, which were sharp of line like white monuments or Doric columns. Ruffled Amazonians in sculptural bustiers in ecru leather…

MILANO September 20, 2018 Moschino revealed the tools of the trade in this highly creative show. Jeremy Scott told stories of the atelier, workshops and creative spaces through clothing. And “work in progress” was the main ingredient of the collection. Scribbles and sketches invaded trenches, shirt-dresses, skirts and tights. Multi-coloured prints, markings and drawings covered the surfaces of leather bombers, bustiers, and Eighties-style suits with big bows cinching the waist. The clothes revealed the creative process. They gave the impression of being unfinished. They showed the tools of the trade. A long black dress was caged inside a giant pair of scissors. A large tape measure was turned into a giant ruffle wound around the shoulders and falling to the ground. The evening dresses even came with a bolt of…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Philipp Plein’s show was an explosive tribute to Michael Jackson. It was packed with leather, denim, latex and gold leaf python. Rock chicks paraded on a mirrored runway. Motorcycle riders covered in studs, feathers, crystals, spangles, precious stones, shiny fringes, white gold and black skulls. Leather gloves covered the arms. Fetish, tight-fitting, mini length gilded dresses were cinched by multiple belts embellished with studs and large metal buckles. Vinyl trousers and mini-skirts were equally tight. A seductive nocturnal bodysuit was festooned with jewels in sparkling floral designs. The blazer is oversize and covered with sparkling sequins. Iconic camouflage parkas featured patches and rolled up sleeves or straps tightening the cuffs. There was no shortage of metallic athleisure mini-dresses and coordinates covered in branding and printed T-shirts,…

MILANO September 22, 2018 Everything began with a trip to Morocco. Paul Surridge was inspired by the lights of Marrakech and the colours and fragrances of North Africa. The collection that followed had afro influences in nude, sulphur, sand, bronze and sea blue tints. Athletic, sensual women wore draped minidresses that left the shoulders bare. Tailored jackets were paired with dynamic, sporty cycling shorts. The evening dresses were a triumph of shine. Stretch fabrics enveloped the body in sparkles and crystals. Deep necklines and jewel appliqués. Leather and silk were hand-woven. Animal prints were toned down to soft hues. Innovative python and pony skin patchwork was created with a new aluminium technique. Fringes, irregular hems, mesh, plissé and glossy appliqués demonstrated the level of attention to detail. Jackets were covered…

MILANO September 21, 2018 Tod’s celebrated the Mediterranean with a palette of spicy tones reminiscent of the earth, clay and the Italian peninsula. The brand’s signature leather was cut into understated, elegant pieces. Premium leather cut by artisans and carefully crocheted. Leather in intarsia and strips alternated with soft bands in suede, python and patterned fabrics. Ochre, mahogany and burnt sienna leather. A white wrap dress was covered in vibrant leather fringes and feathers and came cinched with a double-T belt. Pencil skirts were tight with splits. Trousers were practical, functional and cropped at the ankle. All-leather outfits came in hyper-feminine yet gutsy shades of pastel pink. But it wasn’t all about leather. There was light nappa for trenches, python for blouses and blazers, and hide for classic shirts. Fringes,…

NEW YORK September 11, 2018 What counts for Cynthia Rowley, too, is real women and they are the ones she is embracing with her new collection of dresses in every length and style decorated with floral prints and bold colours, including a panelled mini bustier dress in neoprene that Rowley deemed “indestructible”. But, aside from the super-sexy tube dress, the rest of the clothes were fluid and featured asymmetry, ruches, flounces and splits that added movement and adapted to the female body. Trousers included a few flares and some black lace-trim cycling shorts that peeped out from under flared cassocks in black or bold prints. Being a surfer herself, and having just returned from a surfing trip to Montauk, the designer also produced surf and swim wear. Anche per Cynthia…

NEW YORK September 10, 2018 Peace, calm, relax. The new summer collection from The Row presented in the Olsen twins’ Lower East Side studio included clothes that speak for themselves, just as the designers like it. The brand’s signature elongated lines featured in dresses, coats and trousers that fell close to or all the way to the floor in a delicate palette ranging from ivory to sand, charcoal to black. The effect was majestic, reminiscent of something regal and timeless. This was especially the case in some of the looks, such as a monastic long flared dress with wide pleats with a high collar and ¾ sleeves or a long white tunic overcoat. Some light skirts were layered over masculine trousers, but the overall look remained clean, rigorous and poetic…

NEW YORK September 10, 2018 Phillip Lim captured the exotic mood pervading the New York runways, staging his show on the Lower East Side and having his models parade in large fisherman’s hats with long cords that resembled conical Vietnamese hats without the point. The rest of the looks had a vaguely North African feel, with striped and fringed cassocks, dresses and skirts. This hippy-chic aesthetic was filtered through Sixties influences with bralettes fastened with big buttons visible under asymmetric dresses or layered over knits and mini-dresses, chainmail tunics and orange and yellow florals in the finale. Lim loves layering, though this season he bared more flesh than usual with cut-outs and cropped cuts. Una certa tendenza esotica soffia sulle passerelle newyorchesi e cattura anche Phillip Lim che, sul tetto…

NEW YORK September 9, 2018 The opening look in the Boss show ‘explained’ the entire collection, the first post-Jason Wu created by a team headed by Ingo Wilts. The focus was California and, more broadly, a desire for lightness. The first look’s light lines and fabric came in the form of a sinuous, highnecked midi-length fine-knit dress and a beige nylon trench paired with flat lace-up sandals, which were worn with almost every look, even the most elegant ones. Equally loose masculine suits were paired with sheer shirts and knits, giving a sense of fluidity that even spread to the leather pieces, which came in bordeaux or patchwork. An abstract roadmap of Los Angeles was printed on some of the dresses in a repetitive block design, creating a real ‘Californian’…

NEW YORK September 11, 2018 Ghost Ranch is a place of spiritual retreat in New Mexico, famous for the paintings Georgia O’Keeffe produced there. Now, it is also an important palaeontological site containing dinosaur fossils from the Triassic Period. Stuart Vevers, the creative director of Coach 1941, visited the area to source his inspiration for this summer collection, which teams sandy deserts with playful touches such as Disney characters like Dumbo, Bambi and Pinocchio printed upside-down on oversize T-shirts and sweatshirts with and without a hood. The rest of the clothes and details followed the same theme. Long prairie skirts and dresses with flounces, ruched shirts and blouses, fringed jackets and gilets, patchwork denim pieces, mini and maxi leather outerwear and shoulder bags with fringes and hanging laces - all…

NEW YORK September 6, 2018 Jeremy Scott’s inspiration was himself, or rather his adolescent self. The one, he revealed backstage, that when he was thirteen threw away a shirt he thought he would not wear anymore, only to regret that choice a week later and resolve to keep everything from then on, just in case. The show included aspects of Scott in the ’90s, like polaroids of the designer printed on T-shirts, sweatshirts and one long dress, while big cartoon-style neon words like ‘sex’, ‘shock’ and ‘resist’ decorated knits, dresses, tops and mini-skirts. There was also camouflage and tartan with a touch of grunge, tracksuits and leather motorcyclist pieces, patchwork jeans and zipped jumpsuits with built-in stiletto heels, but the footwear was dominated by over-the-knee motocross boots, which were also…

NEW YORK September 12, 2018 Michael Kors found inspiration for his new summer collection in Bora Bora and Tetiaroa, in Polynesia. The bright colours and summer joy in the 54 looks were all about beach life, beginning with the first look: a brightly-coloured shirt and midi skirt worn with rope platform sandals and a soft wide-brimmed hat. That outfit was followed by shorts and T-shirts, minidresses of various styles, sundresses, little fringed skirts and, naturally, swimsuits and bikinis. For cooler days, there were cashmere sweaters, sweatshirts, faded denim pieces and zipped jackets, plus the odd metallic brocade and lace piece, such as a white jumpsuit with Seventies flared trousers. Backpacks, cloth bags, cloche hats and elegant beach towels worn over the shoulders completed a day at the beach. Michael Kors…

NEW YORK September 10, 2018 Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough at Proenza Schouler returned to New York after a couple of shows in Paris and it marked the beginning of a new period, as they explained “we want the clothes to be fashion, but also to be more real”. Real like denim, which dominated the collection in a bleached wash on blazers, A-line skirts with oblique fastening, drop-waist and apron dresses, shirts and giant bags. These were teamed with masculine pieces such as sleeveless blazers, gilets and high-waist trousers with darts and wide belts, while there were almost no prints or textures, with the exception of some tie-dye effects and a few shots of New York applied to hems or backs. The other real fabric, canvas twill, was used for…

NEW YORK September 5, 2018 Tom Ford is a big fan of Babylon Berlin, the German TV series set in the late ’20s and early ’30s, especially because it is packed with his signature illicit, after-dark glamour. The opening looks were clear: suits with tapering ruched skirts and lace peeking out from the hem, body-con dresses, slip dresses worn with masculine blazers - all in bright faux crocodile or glossy silk. Ford also played with asymmetry and deconstruction in tops teamed with dress trousers, while evening wear included cascades of fringes sinuously following the body’s movements and corsets worn with boxy animal print jackets. Babylon Berlin, la serie televisiva tedesca ambientata tra la fine degli anni ’20 e i primi anni ’30, piace anche a Tom Ford, soprattutto perché è…

MILANO SHOWROOMS AU JOUR LE JOUR Tel. +39-0249529717 www.aujourlejour.it BALLY Tel. +39-0258411112 www.bally.it CAPUCCI Tel. +39-0276394399 info@capucci.eu www.capucci.eu DONDUP Tel. +39-02277231 info@dondup.com www.dondup.com EMILIO PUCCI Tel. +39-02885821 www.emiliopucci.com FAUSTO PUGLISI info@faustopuglisi.com www.faustopuglisi.com MANUEL FACCHINI info@11srl.com www.manuelfacchini.com SHIRTAPORTER Tel. +39-0457570591 info@shirtaporter.com www.shirtaporter.com TERRE ALTE Tel. +39-0541743658 info@terrealte.net www.terrealte.net THE GREGORY Tel. +39-0516320346 info@lunapienasnc.it www.lunapienasnc.it VIONNET Tel. +39-0249682500 info@vionnet.com www.vionnet.com MILANO CATWALKS A.F. VANDEVORST Tel. +32-495524263 www.afvandevorst.be ALBERTA FERRETTI Tel. +39-0276003095 info@aeffe.com www.albertaferretti.com ALBERTO ZAMBELLI Tel. +39-0365654499 info@albertozambelli.it www.albertozambelli.it ANTONIO MARRAS Tel. +39-0289075001 info@antoniomarras.it www.antoniomarras.it BLUMARINE Tel. +39-059637511 blufin@blufin.it www.blufin.it CRISTIANO BURANI Tel. +39-0596550415 bdesignsrl@live.it www.cristianoburani.it DOLCE & GABBANA Tel. +39-02774271 www.dolcegabbana.com DSQUARED2 Tel. +39-0242297890 www.dsquared2.com EMPORIO ARMANI Tel. +39-02723181 www.armani.com ERMANNO SCERVINO Tel. +39-05564924 info@ermannoscervino.it www.ermannoscervino.com ETRO Tel. +39-0257931 info@etro.com www.etro.com FENDI Tel. +39-06334501 www.fendi.com GABRIELE COLANGELO Tel. +39-0287226518 communications@gabrielecolangelo.com www.gabrielecolangelo.com…