Innholdsfortegnelse for October/ November 2024 Vol 26 issue 5 i Gripped: The Climbing Magazine

A small mountain community in the Himalaya called Thame, which is home to several Nepalese mountain guides, was struck by a devastating flood of freezing water earlier this year. Luckily nobody was killed, but dozens of homes were lost, including lodges used by trekkers passing through. Videos posted on social media by the local authorities showed muddy water digging through the landscape in scenes that looked like they were from Hollywood movies. Entire structures collapsed, as people fled to higher ground. Thame, a Sherpa village that sits at around 3,800 meters, was once home to Tenzing Norgay Sherpa, who was on the first ascent of Everest with New Zealander Edmund Hillary in 1953. The village is now home to Kami Rita Sherpa, the climber who holds the record for the…

Colorado has some of North America’s most classic winter climbing areas, from the tall classics at Telluride to the single-pitch playground in Ouray. Many climbers who are looking for something more overhanging than vertical head to Vail, where some of the most classic American mixed lines are located. Of them all, Amphibian at the Rigid Designator Amphitheatre, which was first climbed by Will Gadd in the mid-1990s, has become one of the most-climbed routes at the grade in the range. This was one of the first bolted mixed climbs in the country, so you know you’ll find some good pick placements once you sort the beta. A stick-clip is recommended for the first cruxes, as there are two starts with the left being slightly easier. Big moves lead to technical…

There might not be a better long rock climb in Yosemite for the 5.7 climber than Royal Arches. This 16-pitch classic follows slabs and cracks up a large piece of stone on the north side of the valley. It’s climbed often, is clean of loose rock and there are plenty of resources to use to guide you up it without any problems. It has a few points of easy direct aid, otherwise it can be climbed at 5.10. It was first climbed in 1936, believe it or not, by Ken Adam, Morgan Harris and W. Kenneth Davis. The three of them made their way up in October, which proves this is a good climb for a fall day. Because it has so many low angle sections, there are opportunities along…

Janja Garnbret is having a year for the history books. The Slovenian climber started the year off strong in April when she won gold at both the Boulder World Cup in Keqiao and the Lead World Cup in Wujiang. That same month she became the first woman ever to climb the Fontainebleau “Big 5”—a series of tall, notoriously difficult problems ranging from V9 to V11—in a single day on her first-ever visit to the French bouldering area. In May, Garnbret made the first female ascent of Bügeleisen Sit V15, joining the small group of women who have climbed the V15 grade. She ended up climbing the stout Nalle Hukkataival problem twice that session after being unhappy with the send footage of her first top. The following month, in June, Garnbret…

Arc’teryx Delta Pullover Hoody $220 This technical pullover fleece is perfect for the mixed climber looking for a reliable mid-layer. When you hold this up to the light you can pretty much see through it, which gives you an idea about just how lightweight it is. The length keeps it tucked into your harness on those steep climbs. The scuba-style hoodie fits snug under your helmet and there’s a lot of stretch in the arms and shoulders. Camp Orbit Lock $15 If you’re looking for a smooth-clipping and easy-handling locking carabiner for cleaning anchors then look no further. This lightweight screwgate has a narrow nose that allows it to clip quickly, a gate that opens to 17 mm, and it’s one of the lighter compact D options. Perfect for fall…

Mammut Eigerjoch Advanced IN Hooded Jacket $410 This stylish jacket has two types of insulation, a water-repellent down to keep your arms and core warm, and a synthetic material for your shoulders, back and hood. The material is one of the most abrasion resistant on a jacket like this, so it’s a good option for long approaches through the bush, long multi-pitch trad alpine-style mixed, and routes where you’re going to get yourself into some chimneys. This is built for the climber heading to technical objectives. Arc’teryx Proton Hoody $400 The new revised Proton hoody makes for a great fall layer that you can climb steep routes in. This is one of the most breathable layers in its category thanks to a combination of design and light fabric. It can…

Climbing Self-Rescue By Ian Nicholson, The Mountaineers Press, 2024 When asked what we would do if the leader fell and injured themselves several pitches up, few of us would have a clear idea of what to do. Our likely answers would be, “It’s not going to happen”, or “We’d figure it out then and there.” While leader falls with consequences might be rare, they do happen. If you’re fortunate enough to spend season after season in the mountains, the odds will catch up to you. And what about sudden changes in weather conditions, a pitch that appears to block progress, a dropped belay device, or a struggling second? These are almost common occurrences once you leave the world of single-pitch sport climbing. Studies conducted by various militaries conclude that, overwhelmingly,…

Rab Women’s Mythic Alpine Down Jacket $575 If you’re looking for a jacket to keep you warm in the cold months ahead, for moving up a snowy ridge or chilling at a belay, then consider this. Perfect for dry conditions, incredibly warm and retains its loft throughout the season. Scarpa Origin VS $159 Built on a slightly asymmetric flat last and featuring gentle tensioning, the Origin VS delivers a reasonable level of performance without the toe-crushing fit common with many higher-end specialized shoes. If you are a new or intermediate climber looking for a comfortable shoe, look no further. Patagonia M10 Anorak $499 Ice and alpine climbers are celebrating, as Patagonia has brought the M10 Anorak back to market. The minimalist shell will keep you safe from the elements, allows…

Tucked into the foothills of the eastern slopes of the Canadian Rockies is a bouldering area that’s been gaining popularity over the years. While climbers have been visiting the large conglomerate rocks found in a forest near Yamnuska for decades, it wasn’t until recently that a development spree took place that resulted in there being dozens of problems from V0 to V10. There are five main areas of boulders, with them being The Cottage, Lil’Un, Forget Me Knot, The Garden and Moss Rock. The approach is around 30 minutes of walking on a flat trail into a forest with views of the Prairies to the east and mountains to the west. This is the only place in the Canadian Rockies where you’ll find conglomerate, a rock that is harder than…

Storm Creek Headwall has become the most popular early-season mixed climbing crag in the Canadian Rockies. Thanks to the ice forming earlier than almost anywhere else in Alberta or B.C., the excellent rock and the amazing setting, climbers start to visit as early as October. While there are dozens of high-quality routes to do, Buddha Nature is likely the most popular at the grade of M6 WI5. And since it’s three pitches, you’ll be guaranteed an adventurous day, as the long approach to the area means you’ll have to leave the car early. Buddha Nature follows some exciting drytooling into steep ice which can be thin some years. With a route like this, you can expect a deep pump and fun exposure. The first pitch is a 30-metre M6 that…

Not far from Chattanooga in the Tennessee River Gorge, is one of the best areas to go trad climbing in the U.S., the Tennessee Wall, also known as T-Wall. There are hundreds of routes along the four-kilometre crag that follow esthetic lines up solid sandstone in a wilderness setting. There are routes for climbers at all levels, from 5.5 to as hard as you want to go. The few bolted routes that do exist are quite sporty, so if you’re going to just clip bolts, expect some big runouts. The first climbers to visit the area began to establish routes in the mid 1980s, with the first recorded route being In Sight of Power, a now classic 5.8+. The crag, called T-Wall, is divided into T Wall East and T-Wall…

HIT THE ROAD FOR A FALL WESTERN ROAD TRIP When it comes to having some of the best and most accessible rock in the world, few places can one-up the American west. From southern California north to the Canadian border are some of the most sought after destinations in the world. From roadside bouldering to backcountry sandstone towers and granite walls, the mountains and deserts of the states west of Colorado are ripe with adventurous possibilities. Whether you’re looking to escape work for a few weeks or just hoping to get away from the internet to avoid election drama, here are seven must-visit spots this fall. VANTAGE Known officially as Frenchman Coulee, this area offers some of the finest basalt column climbing in the U.S. There’s a great mix of…

Couple Repeats Seven Pitch 5.14b Austrian climber Babsi Zangerl and Italian Jacopo Larcher climbed The Gift in Rätikon, Switzerland. The 350-metre 5.14b climbs seven pitches up mixed terrain with bolted cruxes. Larcher’s ascent marked the first repeat since the route was established by Alex Luger in 2015, Zangerl redpointed it the following day. They both led every pitch without any falls. It took them six days of work. About her send, Zangerl said, “I found a small adjustment that helped a bit to make that crux move a bit less risky … I felt nervous when I reached the crux pitch but somehow managed to save some power for the low percentage crux, reaching the final hold with a big pump.” Hard New Andes Alpine Marcelo León reported that he…

Stairway to Heaven is a classic American 10-pitch WI5R found in Provo Canyon, Utah. It follows a series of hard-to-miss tiers up a stepped-out mountain side. In March 2024, Sean McLane and Jon Jugenheimer opened The Penitent Path, a 12-pitch M9 that climbs up next to Stairway to Heaven. This is a perfect route for the seasoned mixed climber looking to push themselves on a long route during a season with short days. As first ascentionist McLane put it, the route has “fully bolted sport drytooling for 12 pitches with most between M7 and M9.” He added, “No ice and no figure-fours are necessary.” The pitches go at M4 35 m 8 bolts, M7 20 m 9 bolts, M8 15 m 7 bolts, M5+ 20 m 5 bolts, M7+ 25…