Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2015 i Gourmet Traveller

COCKTAIL PARTY Vietnamese spring rolls with mustard leaves and herbs (RECIPE P48) Spring onion fritters and crisp broad bean leaf tips with preserved-lemon mayonnaise (PICTURED; RECIPE P126) Veal schnitzel rolls with chipotle sauce (RECIPE P122) New Melbourne bar Heartbreaker has the right idea: offer a core range of just four classic cocktails – Negroni, Martini, Old Fashioned and Manhattan – but do them brilliantly. Try the same approach with this party menu: serve one or two great cocktails, plus one type of beer and maybe some fizz. Keep it simple. Have fun. BACKYARD BASH Prawn, corn slaw and chervil rolls (PICTURED; RECIPE P50) Lamb and roast carrot sausage rolls (RECIPE P139) Coconut cupcakes with passionfruit curd (RECIPE P160) In today’s craft-beer-obsessed world, longneck bottles of daggy old beer brands such…

RISOTTO AL SALTO Risotto alla Milanese has its charms, especially in its home city, but this classic northern-Italian dish takes on another dimension when served “al salto”. The rice is pan-fried in butter as a cake, resulting in a crisp, nutty shell that yields to saffron-rich risotto, served with a creamy Taleggio sauce. Damned delizioso. Rovello18, via Tivoli 2, Milan, +39 02 7209 3709 ANTHEA LOUCAS CHIIZU TORI KATSU Thanks to Izakaya Rintaro, eating claypot rice with Santa Barbara uni (in what feels very much like a treehouse) is now one of my new favourite things to do. But the real standout is a plate of the chiizu tori katsu: the chicken is filled with wagon-wheel cheese, then crumbed and fried. Dangerously good fun. Izakaya Rintaro, 82 14th St, San…

A bittersweet elixir to refresh the palate. “The idea was to create a cleansing, post-dinner beverage with a digestive component,” says Proof’s Shane Ettridge. “Cointreau Noir has a strong orange profile, which balances the bitterness of Averna, while burnt bitters provide intense clove and cinnamon to enrich its complexity.” To get the right mix, Ettridge suggests running your glass under warm water before lighting and swirling the bitters inside. Proof, 9a Anster St, Adelaide, SA, (08) 8212 0708, proof-bar.com > Season a cocktail glass with four dashes of Angostura Bitters and set it alight. Once it’s extinguished, chill the glass in the fridge. Pour 30ml Averna, 30ml fresh lemon juice and 30ml Cointreau Noir (or Grand Marnier) into a cocktail shaker with ice and shake vigorously. Strain into the chilled…

MATTHEW BAX, BAR CZAR What can you suggest in the way of cocktails that can be made ahead for parties? Which ones work? Which ones don’t? Batched drinks. It’s the fancy term we use in cocktail-land to describe cocktails we make and chill before service. They’re great at a party for all sorts of reasons. One of the cool things about making cocktails ahead is that you can chill them down in the freezer, which means you can serve them without ice. This means, though, that you need to stick with drinks that have enough alcohol in them that they don’t freeze. Anything with juice, for instance, will end up solid, and not in a fun, El Bulli-esque way. I’d look to the booze-on-booze classics: the Old Fashioned, Manhattans, the…

Luxury US kitchen brands Sub-Zero and Wolf open an Australian showroom. Sub-Zero and Wolf stand at the top of the luxury-appliance tree. The American company manufactures fridges, ovens and cooktops that star in many a designer kitchen. They’re striking, high-performing and meticulously designed. (They also have reassuringly high price tags; Sub-Zero refrigerators, for example, range from $16,000 to $50,000.) Australian company Multyflex has imported Sub-Zero and Wolf for more than six years, but has added a Melbourne showroom to its digs. The 500-square-metre space on Bank Place features every Sub-Zero and Wolf product available in Australia, in a smart fit-out by Mim Design. The fact the products look as sharp as their performance, says marketing manager Nadia Bridgeford, means a lot to their customers. “We’ve tried to create a beautiful…

A touch of Japan and a toolbox of French techniques may inform the work in the kitchen at Estelle by Scott Pickett (ESP for short), but Pickett would hesitate to call the food at the Melbourne hotspot anything but Australian. Having grown up on a farm near McLaren Vale, Pickett says his feet are planted firmly on the ground, even as the cuisine at his newly refitted Northcote eatery reaches for the stars. “We grew our own vegetables and fruit trees, and we had cows and chickens,” he says. “From an early age I had an appreciation for where food came from.” What was once The Estelle is now two restaurants, the more casual Estelle Bistro, and the tasting menu-focused ESP, and Pickett also keeps a hand on the tiller…

Sharp design, solid investment On hot days when deadlines approach, the Dyson AM06 table fan keeps your workspace at the optimum temperature. The powerful airflow of Dyson’s Air Multiplier technology creates a smooth jet of air to maintain the cool of the room – and your focus – without fussy blades. Energy efficient Your power bill won’t have to take the heat for all this cool. Clever engineering means Dyson Cool fans now use up to 40 per cent less energy. Works the room Whatever look you’re going for, there’s a Dyson model to complement it. The Dyson AM06 table fan comes in white/ silver, black/nickel or iron/blue. No blades, no worries With no fast-spinning blades and no awkward grilles to accumulate dust and grime, Dyson Cool fans are easy…

How has Neil Perry kept the Sydney flagship of his restaurant empire on top for more than two decades? A big part of it is his investment in talent. As chef of Rockpool from 2010 on, this talented young chef has been in charge of one of the most respected kitchens in the world, and kept it riding high as it made the transition from The Rocks to its darkly glamorous new home on Bridge Street. In this session Wood translates the Rockpool magic to energise your cooking just in time for the entertaining season. Whether it's lamb with ginger, clams and grilled lettuce or an omelette with crab sauce, elegance is the watchword. EVENT DETAILS CHEF PHIL WOOD TOPIC ROCKPOOL ENTERTAINS LOCATION HARVEY NORMAN @ DOMAYNE, 84 O’RIORDAN ST,…

We’re all acquainted with ways to use up leftover bread (think panzanella, crostini, pappa al pomodoro, bread sauce and breadcrumbs), but we’re perhaps less familiar with uses for flatbread. Just like its fuller-figured relative, leftover flatbread can be put to good use as the basis of many a meal and snack. There’s a host of flatbreads available; the flatbread used in these recipes is the Middle Eastern-style or Lebanese bread. Its versatility continues even after it’s past its best-before date. Bake flatbreads unadorned and crumble them through salads in the fashion of the classic Lebanese fattoush of mixed vegetables and fried pita – a great warm-weather go-to. This approach works well in all manner of salads; just be sure to serve the salad straight away so the flatbread remains crisp.…

Shrinking property sizes mean smaller patches with little space for the big guns of the vegetable world. And if we do have the space to weave some green-thumbed magic, something as bold as a pumpkin rarely eventuates. A sprawling mess of vine punctuated by burgeoning jack-o’-lanterns seems more like the stuff of an organic Halloween fantasy than our cluttered urban reality. But even when real estate is at a premium, there are ways to accommodate all that the gardening gods have to offer. When choosing which variety to grow, let your available space guide the decision. While there are varieties that love to go on and on, some are better suited to competitive fruit-lifters than others. Thus, variety is an important decision. If, for example, you have a bad back,…

Breaking good Michael Madrusan from The Everleigh (a former GT Bar of the Year) has teamed up with cocktail guru Sebastian Reaburn at this former tiki bar, now called Heartbreaker. Open until 3am most nights and with a jukebox, pool table and red neon signage, it’s channelling the American dive bar. But hand-bottled cocktails, craft beer and continent-jumping bar food, set the dial at louche rather than loose. Heartbreaker, 234a Russell St, Melbourne, (03) 9041 0856 Raising the steaks An outpost of steak frites specialist Entrecôte in South Yarra has opened in the space once occupied by Prix Fixe. At Entrecôte City steak (Hopkins River porterhouse with herbed butter, bottomless fries and salad) is still a main event, but seafood shares equal billing, with hefty platters piled with prawns, oysters,…

Ramen riot You’ve got until 30 November to get your taste of Sokyo chef Chase Kojima’s take on ramen. A pop-up at the casino, Sokyo Ramen by Chase Kojima sees him trading his sushi blades for stockpots with no small amount of success. Our pick is the yuzu shio bowl. Rather than a pork-bone base, it’s made with chicken broth, making it refreshingly light. Sokyo Ramen by Chase Kojima, café court, ground floor, The Star, 80 Pyrmont St, Pyrmont Ring in the changes Two of the principals from CBD cocktail envelope-pushers Bulletin Place, Tim Philips and Rob Sloan, are part of the team behind Dead Ringer, a new Surry Hills haunt that does both drink and (gasp) food. That means alongside your Yuzu Breezer (rum, yuzu, grapefruit) and Dixie Cup…

Yoghurt-braised lamb neck Serves 6 6 portions (200gm each) lamb neckOlive oil, for frying½ onion, finely sliced1 garlic clove, finely sliced1 tsp chopped thyme1 cup white wine2 cups Dodoni Greek yoghurt1 cup chicken stock2 tbsp butter, dicedPotato mash, coriander and whole andslivered almonds, to serve 1 Preheat fan-forced oven to 160C. Heat a heavy-based frying pan over high heat. Season the lamb necks with salt and pepper, add olive oil to the pan, then lamb necks and brown all over. Transfer to a baking dish just large enough to fit the lamb snugly. 2 Return the pan to medium heat, add onion, garlic and thyme and sauté until softened. Add to the baking dish. 3 Deglaze the pan with white wine and with a wooden spoon scrape up any caramelised…

As a person who loves entertaining but whose domestic habits tend dreadfully towards messiness, I live constantly on the horns of a strategic dilemma. Invite hordes of people round, necessitating a preparatory hour or two of curse-sprinkled panic-tidying? Or not bother and miss seeing friends? Neither is entirely satisfactory, and the most sensible immediate solution – be neater – seems congenitally beyond my reach. Happily, though, there is a Third Way, and that way is to invade other people’s homes with one’s baked goods. This simple – if opportunistic – solution allows one to feed one’s friends in a convivial environment while skirting much of the cleaning-up, and offers the added and genuine thrill of a logistical challenge. Getting a complicated dish from A to B undamaged is a richly…

KitchenAid KSM156 Platinum Stand Mixer Made to perform and built to last, the KitchenAid Platinum Stand Mixer takes the classic stand mixer to a whole new level, and with a two-coat metallic finish and glass bowl it has the looks to match. Its mixing muscle and versatile attachment hub make this a culinary superstar. Easily transformed into a pasta maker, vegetable slicer or sausage maker, this is much more than a mixer. RRP $899. KitchenAid KSB5080/85 Magnetic Drive Blender Welcome to high power, high style and low effort with this smart blender. Simply slide the jug in, select a preset program, hit the button, and walk away. The Magnetic Drive Blender will take it from there, from $999. KitchenAid KHB2569 Artisan Deluxe Hand Blender The Artisan Deluxe Hand Blender is…

Alice Waters says she took all the best of Chez Panisse with her. Justin Hemmes says she cooks some of the best food he’s ever eaten. With such high praise, it’s no wonder there’s much excitement about chef Danielle Alvarez’s arrival in Sydney to head up Fred’s, a new restaurant in Hemmes’ Merivale Group, slated to open in Paddington early next year. Born in Miami to Cuban parents, Alvarez spent nigh on four years cooking at Chez Panisse in California, and though she also worked at the glittering likes of The French Laundry, it was the Alice Waters style at Chez Panisse that captured her imagination. It’s this fluid, collaborative, produce-first approach that will be the essence of the new restaurant. “I don’t like muddled flavours,” she says. “If it’s…

When is a restaurant cookbook not a restaurant cookbook? “One of the things that was important to me when I was putting together this book was that the recipes were not about restaurant food,” says chef and restaurateur Andrew McConnell. “I wanted to reflect what I feel this food and these flavours are all about – the home-cooked meal, the shared table and having fun with friends and family.” McConnell, whose stable of Melbourne restaurants includes Supernormal, Cumulus Inc, Cumulus Up, Cutler & Co, Luxembourg and Moon Under Water, is reflecting on why Supernormal, his modern Japanese/Chinese/Korean-influenced diner – and one of his newer outings – became the focus of his second cookbook. “I suppose the recipes in the book are very much about the way I like to eat…

For a city that otherwise punches so far above its weight in hospitality, Sydney is home to surprisingly few hip hotels – which makes the arrival of The Old Clare Hotel all the more welcome. A designer hotel in the living heart of the city, it’s a property envisioned with ambition and realised with verve. It’s quirky without being twee, modern without being cold, and put together in a way that sees aesthetics complement comfort. Best of all, perhaps, it’s the sort of hotel that can be enjoyed by Sydneysiders as much as their guests – a gleaming addition to a quarter of the city that’s on the up. You have to give it to Loh Lik Peng. In the four years since the project got under way, Chippendale, the…

LONGEST HAUL The world’s longest non-stop flight will be launched by Emirates in February. The 17-hour and 35-minute route between Dubai and Panama City is the carrier’s first toehold in Central America. emirates.com/au OFF THE MENU First-class Qantas flyers to Dubai and the US this month will enjoy a new, off-menu dish – zucchini flowers filled with Fraser Island crab and served with tomato vinaigrette – as part of a Rockpool initiative to showcase seasonal Australian ingredients. And dishes are matched with the first fleet of mainly Australian wines selected by a panel of Rockpool sommeliers, with a focus on lighter, cleaner styles. qantas.com.au HEATHROW IN A HURRY Good news for well-organised Heathrow habitués: new fares booked three to six months in advance on Heathrow Express trains to inner-city Paddington…

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DON’T MISS Stroll with a culinary historian on a Farm to Fork tour of Europe’s oldest market, the 13th-century Boqueria, with the highly regarded tour company Context (which launched tours this year in Sydney and Melbourne). The amble includes tastings of local specialties. contexttravel.com DAYTRIPPING Three former journalists, one with a degree in gastronomy, run Aborígens Barcelona, offering insider food tours in areas just beyond Barcelona. On their 10-hour Outer Food Tour in the Catalan countryside, travellers meet artisanal producers and learn about regional traditions. aborigensbarcelona.com…

FOOD Trifling matters Your favourite festive dessert goes glam six ways from Sunday with chocolate and blackberry, meringue and dulce de leche, and more. The seafood extravaganza Make it a truly Australian Christmas this year with a fresh haul of ideas for the ocean’s bounty. For the birds We’ve got turkey plans galore, but also hot-smoked chicken, crisp duck and spiced quail. Orphans’ Christmas Chefs Luke Burgess, O Tama Carey and Analiese Gregory are set to make waves with their new projects, but in the meantime they’re cooking up the bring-a-plate lunch of our dreams. TRAVEL Soul of empire Kyoto, the spiritual and aesthetic heartland of Japan, is a wellspring of culture and refinement. Drink deep for inspiration and restoration both. Gone to Goa In beach shacks and ancestral mansions,…

Aeria Country Floors aeria.com.au Anibou (02) 9319 0655, anibou.com.au The Bay Tree (02) 9328 1101, thebaytree.com.au Beacon Lighting beaconlighting.com.au Bison Australia (02) 6257 7255, bisonhome.com Chanel 1300 242 635, chanel.com Chefs’ Warehouse (02) 9211 4555, chefswarehouse.com.au Cocktail Kingdom cocktailkingdom.com Corporate Culture (02) 9690 0077, corporateculture.com.au Country Road 1800 801 911, countryroad.com.au The Country Trader (02) 9698 4661, thecountrytrader.com.au David Jones 1800 354 663, davidjones.com.au The Design Hunter (02) 9369 3322, thedesignhunter.com.au Dior (02) 9295 9022, dior.com Domayne domayneonline.com.au Dunlin dunlin.com.au Emporio Armani 1800 818 853 The English Tapware Company englishtapware.com.au Fox Run foxrun.com.au Francalia (02) 9948 4977, francalia.com.au Freedom 1300 135 588, freedom.com.au Georg Jensen 1800 536 736, georgjensen.com.au Ginkgo Leaf ginkgoleaf.com.au Great Dane greatdanefurniture.com Hayden Youlley Design haydenyoulley.com Iced Affair (02) 9519 3679, icedaffair.com.au Ici et Là (02) 8399…

Confetti cake A triple-layered cake is a guaranteed show-stopper, but if you’re not feeding a large crowd, it’s simple to reduce the quantities and make a single or double-layered cake. Sparklers to adorn it are optional, but highly recommended. The buttercream frosting is inspired by a Catherine Adams recipe. Prep time 45 mins, cook 1 hr 40 mins (plus cooling) Serves 15-20 350 gm softened butter, plus extra for greasing Scraped seeds of 1 vanilla bean700 gm (4 2/3 cups) plain flour550 gm (2½ cups) caster sugar380 ml milk200 gm crème fraîche 6 tsp baking powder280 gm eggwhites (about 10) 3 tbsp hundreds-and-thousands, plus extrato serve Buttercream frosting 500 gm caster sugar230 gm eggwhite (around 8)500 gm butter, at room temperatureScraped seeds of 1 vanilla bean 1 Preheat oven to…

Wouldn’t it be great if you could outsource some of that party-season planning, if someone could step in and pull together a great spread for those end-of-year get togethers? We hear you – the Gourmet Traveller hamper has arrived. Created in conjunction with our friends at Snowgoose, we’ve curated a collection of our favourite party snacks. Deputy editor Pat Nourse nominated the muscatels produced by the Garreffa family at Mildura’s Tabletop Grapes as a must-have, and wine editor Max Allen chose the St Ronan’s “complex and creamy” pear cider as a springtime bubbly to get your party started. Will Studd selected the Lincet Brillat Savarin and Le Roi Roquefort for your cheese platter, and Richard Cornish suggested Mason Clarke Preserving Co’s blackcurrant jelly. I nominated Rockpool Bar & Grill’s beef…

Australia’s artisanal wine fiesta is back – bigger and tastier than ever. Whether it’s acrobatic antics from its founders, unholy after-parties or just general rollicking romps, Rootstock has done more for the idea that wine is supposed to be about good times than any other wine event. “It’s a festival that also never forgets to be a lot of fun,” says co-founder and wine writer Mike Bennie. Together with importers Matt Young and Linda Wiss (Black Market Sake), and sommeliers Giorgio De Maria and James Hird, Bennie is responsible for curating the Sydney event, which champions wines made with minimal intervention. For its third year, Rootstock has expanded its brief to include coffee, raw cheese and indigenous food. “It goes hand in hand with the mores of our wine program,”…

COPENHAGEN Chef René Redzepi has announced plans to close Noma in its current incarnation, with the last service at the site to take place on New Year’s Eve 2016. He wants to remake the restaurant, he says, as an urban farm, moving it to a site over the river near Christiania. The menu will change structure entirely with the seasons, perhaps focusing on seafood in the winter, or going vegetarian in the summer months. SYDNEY Noma Australia might still be a few months off, meanwhile, but the end of the year should see the arrival of some food excitement at Barangaroo regardless with the opening of Anason, a new 80-seater from the team behind Turkish favourite Efendy. The menu will be largely seafood and vegetables in the style of Istanbul,…

What’s planned at Pata Negra for the warmer weather, David? Produce-wise, I’m looking forward to asparagus, artichoke and pea season. I’m also looking forward to getting the barbecue out the back cranked up, and opening the courtyard. Hopefully, we’ll do a few parties, too. Tell us about the parrilla. We fire it up on weekends for busier services and use it to grill things like sardines, herring and skirt steak, which we serve Spanish-style with garlic, parsley and lemon. Just simple and straightforward. We start with jarrah and let it burn down to coals and then top it with charcoal. The courtyard stays open till the end of March when it starts getting cool. Perth people are a little bit more precious about their environmental temperatures than people in Melbourne.…

1 Celebration layer cake pans, $38 for a set of two, from Williams-Sonoma. 2 Professional non-stick jam roll pan, $49.95, from KitchenAid. 3 Professional non-stick mini muffin pan, 12-cup, $59.95 for a set of two, from KitchenAid. 4 Professional non-stick muffin pan, six-cup, $59.95 for a set of two, from KitchenAid. 5 Springform 24cm round cake tin, $50, from Le Creuset. 6 Silverwood individual hexagonal tin set of 18 at 5cm, $79.95, from Iced Affair. 7 Balmoral ribbed cake tin, $14.50, from Chefs’ Warehouse. 8 Tala 23cm fluted flan tin (loose base), $22.95, from Spotlight. 9 Mastrad silicone 8-cup Bordeaux pan, $29.99, from Myer. 10 Nordic Ware heritage bundt pan, $50, from Williams-Sonoma. 11 Square 20cm cake tin, $13.10, 25cm cake tin, $17.50, and 30cm cake tin, $21.90, all from…

There are few names more respected in pâtisserie in Australia than that of Lorraine Godsmark. Over the course of her career, from Rockpool to Six Seven Ate to Yellow and now her gilded home at Lorraine's Pâtisserie at The Ivy complex in the heart of the Sydney CBD, this gifted chef has impressed her legion of fans with exquisite renditions of the classics and an eye for elegant innovation. Get ready to create serious show-stopping desserts for your festive table as Godsmark shares the secrets behind her panettone with peach, chocolate sauce and cassata ice-cream, and a magical raspberry tart with lychee jelly. EVENT DETAILS CHEF LORRAINE GODSMARK TOPIC FESTIVE DESSERTS LOCATION HARVEY NORMAN @ DOMAYNE, 84 O’RIORDAN ST, ALEXANDRIA, NSW DATE & TIME 7PM, WEDNESDAY 25 NOV TICKETS $60…

SPARKLE AND SHINE A pristine white tablecloth complements metallic gold accents in a stylish two-tone table setting. Pairing gold tableware with textured white finishes - from smooth, glossy decorations to frosted matte glassware - makes for the most glamorous of festive tables. Front Cover Furniture Baron Hand Finished Timber Top Dining Table, $2399. Toli Carver Dining Chair White, $169 each. Front Cover Homewares Wild Pine Pre-lit Tree White, $599. Copenhagen Pendant Gold, $169.95. Modern Angles Glass Ornament White/Gold, $6.95 each. Base 16-Piece Dinner Set, $24. Frost Champagne Flutes, $49.95 Set of 4. Base Cake Stand, $10. Maison Table Cloth White, $69 135x180CM. Simplicity 56-Piece Cutlery Set, $229.95. Metallic Tree Tall, $54.95; Medium, $24.95; Small, $14.95. Kimball Geo Glass Ornament White, $6.95. Elin Stone Glass Ornament White, $7.95. Feather Wreath Natural,…

I had a very happy childhood. Every year Mum would make me a fantastic themed birthday cake: one year she accomplished The Yellow Submarine wrought in a structural sponge, another year a cake castle under siege, then a football pitch with a match mid-play (Bolton Wanderers winning against Chelsea), and last, but not least, the Batmobile (definitely Adam West era, not Christian Bale). I looked forward to those cakes, but then something happened – we grew up, and the birthday cake took a back seat to dancing, snogging and drinking. By the time many birthdays have gone under the bridge, one is lucky if there’s a small candle in a scoop of ice-cream. Now we are preparing our own children’s birthdays, but I’m not a great cake baker, so I…

Dodoni was founded in northern Greece in 1963 to provide fresh and delicious products to the residents of the local town, Ioannina. Today in Australia we lovingly use the same techniques and recipes as they use back home. Authentic always. Dodoni yoghurt is made only from fresh pasteurised milk that’s strictly selected for its quality and is preservative-free. In accordance with the traditional method of making yoghurt – the only way Dodoni knows – the sole additive is yoghurt culture. We use cultures that come from Greece and real proteins, which give our yoghurt its smooth taste and characteristically creamy texture, with no overly cultured flavour. It’s our adherence to authenticity and traditions first established by Dodoni more than half a century ago that guarantees the true flavour of Greece.…

Bread winners Whichever way you slice them, sandwiches are the ultimate crowd-pleasers. Chez Alvarez Here’s a taste of the Chez Panisse magic chef Danielle Alvarez will bring to her new Sydney restaurant. Light entertainment Punchy party food that’s big on flavour and light on fuss. Let the fun begin. Rockin’ LA Former Longrain chef Louis Tikaram is wowing Angelinos with his bright, fiery brand of modern pan-Asian cooking at EP & LP. Here’s how he does it. Super-size me In his new book, Supernormal, Andrew McConnell shares the secrets of party-perfect Asian entertaining essentials. Sweetness & light Just the word “sponge” conjures up tea party treats and classic desserts – here we have them all.…

Potato and mussel pancakes with sesame dipping sauce Mussels add a great briny flavour to these pancakes, inspired by the jeon of Korea. Prep time 40 mins, cook 25 mins Makes about 40 1 kg mussels, scrubbed 2 Desiree potatoes (about 250gm each) 2 spring onions, thinly sliced, plus extra to serve 2 garlic cloves, finely grated 1 long red chilli, finely chopped, plus extra to serve 1 bunch garlic chives, cut into 2cm batons 1 egg, lightly beaten 30 gm plain flour 30 gm rice flour 125 ml (½ cup) vegetable oil Sesame seeds, to serve Sesame dipping sauce 2 tbsp soy sauce 2 tbsp Asian sesame paste (see note) 1 tbsp rice wine vinegar 1 tsp sesame seeds 1 birdseye chilli, thinly sliced 1 Heat a large saucepan…

Victoria sponge The Victoria sponge is perhaps the greatest afternoon teacake of all time. It can be sandwiched with jam or any seasonal fresh fruit along with cream. The secret to making a light cake is to beat the butter and sugar for a long time to trap as much air as possible. Prep time 30 mins, cook 20 mins (plus cooling) Serves 8 180 gm self-raising flour 180 gm unsalted butter, coarsely chopped and softened 180 gm caster sugar 3 eggs 1 tsp vanilla bean paste 200 gm strawberries, hulled and thickly sliced, plus extra, whole, to serve 2 tbsp pure icing sugar, plus extra for dusting 150 ml pouring cream 1 Preheat oven to 180C. Butter and flour two 20cm-diameter sandwich tins. Sift flour and a pinch of…

Nespresso is involved in every aspect of the coffee chain, from the country of origin to the cup. This ensures only the highest-quality coffee is selected to produce each of the 23 Grands Crus in the range. Colombia is well known for producing exceptional Arabica beans and is a land with very diverse terroirs. To ensure the best quality and distinct profile of 100% Colombian Arabica beans, Nespresso sources its beans from two terroirs, Cauca and Nariño, both more than 1800 metres above sea level and surrounded by rainforests and river basins. Nespresso is committed to sustainable farming practices in Colombia, ensuring social, economic and environmental conditions are well managed and improved. The AAA Sustainable Quality Program, which works to improve the lives of coffee farmers, recently introduced the AAA…

Low-cost airlines that have traditionally flown short-haul routes are beginning to take on full-service carriers on the long haul. The conventional wisdom among full-service carriers has always been that passengers are happy to pay a little extra for full service, including meals, when flights exceed about 10 hours. The evidence, however, that low-cost carriers can operate successfully over the long haul is mounting: Qantas’s subsidiary, Jetstar, has taken on medium to long-haul routes using wide-body jets; AirAsia’s low-cost long-haul project, AirAsia X, is growing, and so is Europe’s leading long-haul low-cost carrier, Norwegian Air Shuttle. The response of heavyweight airlines has been slow, but even the biggest names are readying themselves to try no-frills intercontinental flying with subsidiary brands. Lufthansa’s Eurowings is scheduled to begin flights this month on six…

ALICE STOREY Contributing food editor Alice Storey has been with Gourmet Traveller since 2007, and in addition to her work with GT, she is also known around her adopted home town of Sydney for her dazzling line of Pure Pops iced-confections. In this issue she came up with a collection of recipes guaranteed to get your party started. “And if all else fails, crack out the tequila, pom-poms and lime,” she says. “That always works for me.” Fire it up on page 132. ANNABEL CRABB ABC writer, broadcaster, and host of the political cooking show Kitchen Cabinet, Annabel Crabb has made an art of charming her way into politicians’ homes with cake and crumbles. She has now co-authored a cookbook, Special Delivery, all about movable feasts. “This book is an…

Colour, texture and form sets life-inspired tableware ranges apart. Two days a week Marloe Morgan travels south from her cooperative art studio in northern New South Wales to Lismore, where she’s completing a Diploma of Ceramics. The journey brings her plenty of inspiration for her high-fired, hand-thrown stoneware. From shallow bowls awash with popping orange and yellow, to organic-shaped platters and high-gloss rain-print sake cups – no two pieces are the same and each is designed with sharing, entertaining and everyday use in mind. What techniques do you use in creating your pieces? I throw on the potter’s wheel, slip-cast using moulds of work I have thrown, and hand-build using pinching and slab-rolling techniques. Not all creations can be realised using just the one technique and being able to work…

Green liquid gold grown in the Tasmanian heartland. WHO Richard and Belinda Weston have a small farm near Brighton, 30 minutes north of Hobart, which supplies produce to Hobart’s best restaurants and their Pigeon Hole Café. At heart they are more gardeners than farmers, though, producing on a small scale and working their land by hand. WHY The Westons’ original plan was to grow peonies, flowers ideally suited to Tasmania’s cool climate. They still do, but in the late 1990s, with the peonies well under way, they began looking for other plants that would also thrive in a place that saw low rainfall and had a frost-prone aspect. They decided on olives and in 1999 planted 600 trees, a mix of 16 different varieties, to see which ones were best…

MAXIMUM GOURMET This month sees the last of this year’s Gourmet Institute sessions at Harvey Norman at Domayne, and we’re going out with a bang. On 11 November it’s Phil Wood, chef of our restaurant of the year, in an event titled Rockpool Entertains, while on the 25 November, master pastry chef Lorraine Godsmark shares her secrets to creating show-stopping centrepiece desserts. Both events will be held at the Alexandria showroom of Harvey Norman at Domayne in Sydney. Tickets cost $60. eventopia. co/gourmetinstitute…

1 Will Studd Lincet Brillat Savarin Our resident cheese expert, Will Studd, has hand-picked this lush Brillat Savarin from Didier Lincet, a producer in Champagne. It’s as rich, sweet and velvety as they come and gets even better with time. 2 Le Roi Roquefort This beautifully veined Roquefort, also selected by Studd, is a no-brainer for fans of the funk. Catering for a bigger crowd? Add a mighty one-kilo hexagon of ultra-creamy Le Dauphin brie as well. 3 Sheridan’s Irish brown-bread crackers All that cheese calls for a quality accompaniment. These Irish brown-bread crackers, made from stone-ground wholemeal flour with a touch of butter, buttermilk and sea salt, fit the bill perfectly. 4 Tabletop Grapes’ muscatels Grown outside Mildura, the Garreffa family’s muscatel clusters bring a welcome touch of sweetness…

OUR APPS GET THE GOURMET FAST AND RESTAURANT GUIDE APPS FOR YOUR iPHONE FREE AT THE APPLE APP STORE Gourmet on iPad + Interactive and made for iPad + Video content and step-by-step demonstrations + Extra images in our photo galleries + Landscape cook-mode for easy cooking SEARCH FOR GOURMET TRAVELLER IN THE APP STORE; AVAILABLE FOR IPAD: APP STORE.COM/MAG SHOP GOURMETTRAVELLER.COM.AU SUMMER LOVIN’ In anticipation of summer, we have 34 fast recipes (think oregano lamb with watermelon salad) to ensure you spend less time in the kitchen and more time in the sun. CALIFORNIA DREAMING Love our feature with Danielle Alvarez (p124)? Hop online for more California-type eats, such as sunny fish tacos and tangy Zuni-style pickles. HAVE YOUR…

1 Tostadas with radish, crab and jalapeño salsa 2 Chicken roasted with wine, basil and capers 3 Grilled lamb cutlets with yoghurt and fresh chilli chutney 4 Snapper with corn salad, burnt butter and shredded nori 5 Fried potato skins with fonduta sauce 6 Indian-style curried eggs with rice 7 Pad Thai 8 Yakiton with shichimi togarashi 9 Peach fool 1 Tostadas with radish, crab and jalapeño salsa Serves 6 as a snack Vegetable oil, for deep-frying 6 corn tortillas 200 gm cooked spanner crab meat, drained 50 gm Kenko mayonnaise (see note) 2 radishes, thinly sliced Hot sauce and lime halves, to serve Jalapeño salsa 2 green jalapeños, finely diced (seeds removed; optional) ½ white onion, finely diced ½ cup coriander, coarsely chopped, plus extra leaves to garnish Juice…

This majestic French confection, originally called croque en bouche (“crunch in the mouth”), is the centrepiece at celebrations, many of them weddings. A tower of cream puffs built around a cone-shaped mould and held together with caramel, which adds the essential crunch, it’s attributed to Antonin Carême, the 19th-century chef famed for the architecture he brought to buffet tables. Three cooking skills are key here: a mastery of choux pastry, crème pâtissière (or pastry cream), and sugar cooking. For the pastry, water and milk are brought to the boil along with butter and salt so the butter emulsifies in the liquid. Have the sieved flour on a sheet of baking paper ready to shoot into the liquid all at once and, critically, off the heat. Beat the dough until it…

“For a party, I love cooking spiced-up snacks for my guests. My Korean pork wraps include kimchi, a high-fibre condiment that’s said to improve gut health. It’s also an excellent source of probiotics – the good bacteria that help fight off various infections – and is packed with vitamin A, some B vitamins, iron, calcium and selenium. Chicken is a good source of protein, niacin (which apparently aids metabolism), B6 (which helps maintain the immune system and blood-sugar levels) and B12 (which is important in the formation of red blood cells). I always look for free-range pork and chicken; the farming practices tend to raise healthier and leaner animals, so in the end I think you get healthier meat.” Roast Korean pork lettuce cups with ssämjang Prep time 20 mins,…

Tripe is one of the great room-dividing ingredients. Eat a substandard version and it’s easy to make enemies with bovine stomach lining. But make contact with a specimen like the trippa alla Maremmana at Emilia and you’ll understand instantly what all the fuss is about. Guts and glory. Emilia’s tripe – from Maremmana cattle, an Italian breed – is treated with care and skill, slowly simmered with onions and celery, emerging soft, tender and aromatic. It’s then sliced into thin ribbons and sautéed with celery, onions, carrots and rosemary before being tossed in a sauce of tomatoes, cannellini beans, parmesan, olive oil, chilli and parsley. It’s a great dish, beautifully fortifying, deeply flavoured, with slippery-smooth textures and a degree of finesse that belies its apparent rusticity. It’s one that’ll have…

“And here is your smelling cup,” said the waitress. I nodded along, anxious for her to think I knew what the hell she was talking about. She saw through it, though, and explained that you poured the tea from the very small pot into the very small cup – the smelling cup – and then into the marginally less small cup, which I’m tempted to call the drinking cup. “The smelling cup,” she said, “is for smelling the tea before you drink it.” Ah. Oh. Mmm-hmm. This was back in June at a surprisingly good Taiwanese restaurant in London. Imagine my delight, then, when I pulled up a chair at the counter at Master and was able to say airily to the chap I was having dinner with, “Oh look,…

1 BREAKING BREAD Champagne Charlot-Tanneux Expression Extra Brut, Mardeuil, $80 There’s a hint of yeasty freshly baked bread rolls at the heart of this pinot meunier-dominant Champagne and an almost sake-like quality – fragrant, delicate fruit, just a hint of lactic tang. Quite moreish. eurocentricwine.com.au 2 BEAUT BLEND 2015 Gentle Folk Gnomes, Adelaide Hills, SA, $35 A complex, dark, satisfying blend of petit verdot and merlot. Some of the wine was bottled with a tiny addition of SO2 preservative, some with none: the former is better after decanting; the latter is delicious as soon as you open. gentlefolk.com.au 3 EARTH CORE 2014 Domaine Joncier L’O, Côtes du Rhône, $28 Another young red that benefits from exposure to air (in a decanter or drunk from big glasses): a bit growly when…

Copenhagen. It’s one of the cities that’s destined always to be division two: contenders – plucky, attractive, imaginative, with flair, taste, heritage – that always tick above expectations but never quite get into the international premier bucket list, the before-you-die-must-see league. And that is one of the finest, sweetest and most desirably exclusive things in its favour. Because the top tier, the places and things that everybody absolutely has to have photographed to complete the album of a full and virtually experienced life are becoming grim. In the last year I’ve been back to two cities that I remember as pukka, first-division places: Istanbul and Rome. And though each was still magisterial and gorgeous, they were also essentially elongated, confused and contradictory queues. Taking my children around the Pantheon and…

Bruschetta with mozzarella, zucchini, mint and lemon These are great for a barbecue. The mozzarella softens deliciously over the char-grilled sourdough. Prep time 20 mins, cook 10 mins Makes 8 8 slices sourdough bread Olive oil, for brushing 3 zucchini, thinly sliced lengthways on a mandolin 1 cup (loosely packed) mint, torn 60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve 4 anchovy fillets, finely chopped Diced flesh of 1 lemon plus juice of ½, or to taste 250 gm buffalo mozzarella, torn into bite-sized pieces 1 Bring a barbecue to high heat. Brush bread with oil and grill, turning once, until charred, golden and warm (2 minutes each side). Keep warm on the side of the barbecue or in a low oven. 2 Meanwhile, brush zucchini with…

Ask the average American about Australian food and you’d be lucky to get a Vegemite joke. Even in Los Angeles, where avocado on toast and flat whites are ubiquitous, few people would know they have Australian café culture to thank for those gifts. Given all that, it might be considered foolish to hope that one day soon Angelinos will gain an appreciation for Australian cooking, but if chef Louis Tikaram has any say in the matter that day is not far off. Tikaram was lured to LA from his post as head chef at Sydney’s Longrain by Melbourne restaurateurs David Combes and Grant Smillie to head the kitchen at EP & LP a sprawling two-level restaurant and bar in the shiny heart of West Hollywood. After a lifetime of admiring…

Myanmar, Lizard Island and Sydney’s Old Clare Hotel are reborn – now, that’s cause to celebrate. The new Old Clare Hip yet hospitable, both contemporary and classic, Sydney’s hottest new hotel, The Old Clare, places its guests in the thick of the city’s action. Myanmar rising As the former Burma emerges from decades of isolation, a river cruise on the Irrawaddy is the ideal way to experience the charms of old Indochina. Island dreamtime Two cyclones and nearly $50 million later, the all-new resort on Lizard Island has opened. Helen Anderson surveys the scene above and below water. Grain of truth British chef Anjum Anand heads to Hyderabad to find the perfect example of its local specialty – biryani.…

Ita was in no hurry to leave when she visited Lizard Island. Before checking in about 6.30pm on 11 April last year, she’d been forecast as a ferocious category-five tropical cyclone, and with winds up to 158 kilometres per hour she hung around for 12 hours. The worst possible guest. The island had been evacuated a couple of days earlier, and staff returned in Ita’s wake to find the luxury resort destroyed, trees uprooted and the lush greenery stripped. An 18-metre catamaran blew into the camping ground. The two remaining walls of Watson’s Cottage, standing since the 1880s, collapsed. At the height of the clean-up and feverish rebuilding project that followed, 250 construction workers lived in tents on the island. Just shy of a year later, and a week before…

EVOLUTION IN THE GALÁPAGOS Luxury small-ship line Natural Habitat Adventures has added a new vessel to its Galápagos fleet, the MV Origin. The 43-metre yacht will lodge 20 passengers in 10 staterooms – each with panoramic windows for optimal viewing of sea lions, dolphins and birds throughout the UNESCO World Heritage islands. Origin is the fourth yacht in the Natural Habitat fleet and will début in 2016. nathab.com P&O PANTRY Five of P&O’s ships will sail into Sydney Harbour on 25 November, including the line’s two newest vessels, Pacific Aria and Pacific Eden. Their arrival coincides with significant developments for P&O, most notably the decision to say goodbye to the traditional cruise buffet. Starting this month, P&O will welcome a sleeker dining concept called The Pantry in which various dining…

ROME DAVID MCALLISTER Artistic director, The Australian Ballet “I had always wanted to see Rome. After years of seeing Italian movies and reading about the Eternal City, the chance finally arrived in 2008 after a tour by the Australian Ballet to Paris and London. We finished the tour and, as fate would have it, there was a free week before we started working in Melbourne. Rome was calling. “Two very dear friends and I rented an apartment around the corner from the Trevi Fountain and had the most idyllic week. On the first night we were just like everyone else re-enacting Three Coins in the Fountain; we each took turns to throw a coin and wished for holidays filled with excitement and wonder. Most days we would head to a…

Kailis Australian Pearls stands for confidence and style, so it was a natural fit for the brand to team up with three inspiring women who embody these attributes: chef Kylie Kwong, interior designer Justine Hugh-Jones and actor and director Gracie Otto. Across different industries, these women have become well-known for their talent as well as for their determination to succeed. Kylie Kwong, one of Australia’s best-loved chefs, faced her biggest challenge yet this year with the reopening of her restaurant, Billy Kwong, in much larger premises in Sydney’s Potts Point. Here, Kwong shares some of her work and life philosophies with Gourmet Traveller. Who are you inspired by? “I’ve been deeply inspired by Gayle Quarmby, who, with her husband Mike, runs Outback Pride, an organic bush food nursery in South…

1 Louis Vuitton Solaris necklace, $2,590. 2 Ellery “Gertrude” duchesse silk-blend satin blazer, $3,926, from Net-a-Porter. 3 Marimekko “Kaivo” scarf, $139, from The Modern Furniture Store. 4 Chanel lambskin zipped pouch, $1,190. 5 Gucci “Gia” python boots, $2,244, from Matches Fashion. 6 Aurélie Bidermann mother-of-pearl earrings, $345, from Matches Fashion. 7 Byredo Parfums Hair Perfume Gypsy Water, $66 for 75ml, from Mecca Cosmetica. 8 Cecilie Copenhagen cotton shorts, $95, from Parlour X. 9 Emporio Armani handbag, $995. 10 Maison Margiela pussy-bow spotted devoré-velvet playsuit, $2,905, from Net-a-Porter. 11 Chanel cuff $2,200. 12 Dior Diorific Vernis in Gris-Or, $43. Stockists p215.…

APT Touring Immerse yourself in the beauty, charm and individuality of India on a luxurious India river cruise and small group journey with APT. Call 1300 335 714 or visit aptouring.com.au/destination/asia/India-2016. Liebherr The under-bench Glass Door Beverage Centre UKes 1752 offers the perfect storage solution for your food and beverages, keeping things cool and stylish with its sleek stainless steel frame. 1800 685 899, andico.com.au Domayne Indulge in the luxury of marble without the price tag. The porcelain 12-piece marble-look dinner set, $119.95, features an elegant marble finish that evokes a regal, old-world feel.domayne.com.au Wolf The revolutionary M Series professional built-in oven features the Unique Dual VertiCross system, which quickly saturates the oven cavity with consistent heat across all racks.subzerowolf.com.au Riedel The Heart to Heart Central Otago Pinot Noir glass…

MEASURES & EQUIPMENT * All cup and spoon measures are level and based on Australian metric measures. * Eggs have an average weight of 59gm unless otherwise specified. * Fruit and vegetables are washed, peeled and medium-sized unless otherwise specified. * Oven temperatures are for conventional ovens and need to be adjusted for fan-forced ovens. * Pans are medium-sized and heavy-based; cake tins are stainless steel, unless otherwise specified. COOKING TIPS * When seasoning food to taste, we use sea salt and freshly ground pepper unless otherwise specified. * To blanch an ingredient, cook it briefly in boiling water, then drain it. To refresh it, plunge it in plenty of iced water (this stops the cooking process), then drain it. * We recommend using free-range eggs, chicken and pork. We…