RISOTTO AL SALTO
Risotto alla Milanese has its charms, especially in its home city, but this classic northern-Italian dish takes on another dimension when served “al salto”. The rice is pan-fried in butter as a cake, resulting in a crisp, nutty shell that yields to saffron-rich risotto, served with a creamy Taleggio sauce. Damned delizioso. Rovello18, via Tivoli 2, Milan, +39 02 7209 3709 ANTHEA LOUCAS
CHIIZU TORI KATSU
Thanks to Izakaya Rintaro, eating claypot rice with Santa Barbara uni (in what feels very much like a treehouse) is now one of my new favourite things to do. But the real standout is a plate of the chiizu tori katsu: the chicken is filled with wagon-wheel cheese, then crumbed and fried. Dangerously good fun. Izakaya Rintaro, 82 14th St, San…