Innholdsfortegnelse for Best of the Year 2015 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

1 DROUGHT ON THE WEST COAST. The escalating drought (three years and running) and increasing battles over access to water for wineries up and down the entire West Coast were big news this year. Grape yields were down considerably as well, although some contest grape quality is actually up. 2 THE ONGOING IMPACT OF CLIMATE CHANGE. Drought wasn’t the only aberrant natural obstacle this year for vintners. Heat waves in Italy, Austria, Germany and others, plus an early and erratic season in California, show that extreme weather shifts are a modern vintner’s Achilles heel. 3 THE INCREASING IMPORTANCE OF CROWD-FUNDING IN WINE. Sites like Kickstarter and Indiegogo have been helping small business get a foothold for years, but Naked Wines, Fundovino, Cruzu and Seedrs gained noticeable momentum in the wine…

So-called “natural” wines are considered by many to be more authentic, expressive of terroir and respectful of the earth than those that are manipulated in various ways during the winemaking process. And we agree: When successful, natural wines can exhibit unique and nuanced characters. Unlike organic grapes and wines, which follow a rigorous certification process, there are no specific requirements for using the term “natural wine.” But it’s generally agreed that they should be made from grapes certified organic or biodynamic, and should be fermented with indigenous yeasts. The mantra of its proponents? Let the wine make itself. It sounds simple, but it also has its pitfalls. Some natural wines are prone to problems like stuck fermentations (common with some yeast strains), oxidation, funky aromas and off flavors. Even worse…

Fine wine deserves fine stemware, but sooner or later, we suffer breakage, need volume or are tempted by fleamarket finds. If you know quality, you can score bargains from obscure sources. But going second-hand or searching out volume value doesn’t mean you have to sacrifice quality, if you follow these steps: 1. First, look at a glass. Turn it carefully against the light. It should be gin-clear from bowl to foot. Any hint of green means lowgrade bottle glass—move on. Colored stems are acceptable, if somewhat passé. Etching and engraving are for antiques only. 2. The lip should be flat—sheared, as if cut with scissors—for a crisp, clean pour. The too-common bulbous rim is sometimes labeled a “safety edge,” but that’s a marketing dodge used to disguise cheap manufacture. It’s…

Crisp, simple and supremely refreshing, this bubbly-based apéritif, created by awardwinning bartender Kenta Goto, relies on few ingredients and a subtly stylish presentation to deliver big results. The less-is-more approach is a guiding principle behind the menu at his new drinking den in New York City, Bar Goto. “It glows and has complex flavors, but it’s easy to make at home,” he says. So easy, we bet you’ll make seconds. GOLDEN CHRYSANTHEMUM ¾ ounce Suze 1 ounce Clear Creek Pear Liqueur 2 ounces pear brandy 1½ ounces dry sparkling wine Lemon twist, for garnish Combine Suze, pear liqueur and pear brandy in a cocktail shaker and fill with ice. Shake lightly, and strain into a coupe glass. Top with sparkling wine and garnish with a lemon twist. FAR EAST SIDE…

It’s easy to get lost in the sea of suds that are available to American consumers. From classic European staples to domestic craft-beer unicorns, the options are virtually endless, and often overwhelming—especially when considering wall after wall of fun labels, clever names and all-around tasty-looking selections. Thankfully, our annual list of the Top 25 Beers is here to guide your next tasting adventure. This list is not the top 25 beers of all time, but rather represents the most exciting brews reviewed this year, sure to please proud beer fans and curious cross-drinkers alike. They exhibit extraordinary craft smanship, innovation and quality at affordable prices. Within the limits of what was tasted throughout the past year, we’ve tried to include beers that not only represent different countries and regions, but…

2015 PERSON OF THE YEAR Gentleman. Winemaker. Businessman. Importer. Philanthropist. Father. Husband. Mentor. Michael Mondavi is a man of considerable talents, one who is many things to many people. The common denominator that ties them all together is the almost universal respect and admiration he enjoys. Michael was born into the wine industry as Robert Mondavi’s oldest son, but he’s always made his own way. He’s a quiet icon, a man who has been around wine for more than 70 years and is widely credited with helping establish the Napa Valley that we know today. “As one of the great leaders in fine wine, Michael’s legacy endures as an influential trailblazer who has helped elevate the world’s perception of California and Napa Valley, not simply through his own ventures, but…

2015 SOMMELIER/WINE DIRECTOR OF THE YEAR “I feel very strongly about having a wine list that is extremely accessible and right at the heart of where our guests are,” says Helen Mackey, vice president of menu strategy and food and beverage innovation at Ruth’s Hospitality Group, Inc., the parent company of Ruth’s Chris Steak House. Ruth’s Chris is the largest upscale steakhouse restaurant chain in the world, with more than 140 restaurants in 12 countries. Mackey started at the company in 2010 as director of beverage strategy. Now, she takes a holistic approach to the guest experience. “The best thing you can do is read your guests,” she says. “What are they asking from you? Where do they want you to take them next?” Mackey first began exploring the world…

2015 MIXOLOGIST OF THE YEAR If you want something, ask for it. That’s the big lesson to be learned from Claire Smith-Warner, head of spirit creation and mixology at Belvedere Vodka. When she started with Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) in 2003, “brand ambassador” was not a standard career description in the liquor world. After a postcollegiate stint in the hospitality business, Smith-Warner won “The Battle of the Giants,” a United Kingdom cocktail competition, in 2001 and her bartending career took off. “That really catapulted me into the high-profile London scene,” says Smith-Warner. “I spent time working in bars in London, working with influencers like [London bartending legend] Dick Bradsell. That really shaped my early experiences.” Shortly thereafter, LVMH approached Smith-Warner about working with Belvedere, which was about to launch…

CHARDONNAY 91 Ashan 2014 Barrel Fermented Chardonnay ( Columbia Valley). This wine offers a pleasing mixture of aromas and flavors of baking spices, pear and apple. Viscosity and weight gives it a sense of gravitas but never gets bogged down. — S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25 91 Gorman 2014 Big Sissy Chardonnay ( Columbia Valley ). Fermented and aged in new French oak, this wine shows pleasing pear and apple aromas along with toast and baking spices. The medium-bodied flavors show refinement, depth and balance. — S.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 90 14 Hands 2014 The Reserve Chardonnay ( Horse Heaven Hills ). This wine is made in a full-throttle style, with aromas of toast, melted butter, spice and vanilla—the latter from the 100% new American oak aging. It’s creamy…

CHARDONNAY 88 Trump 2014 Estate Bottled Chardonnay ( Monticello ). Fragrant aromas of green pear and apple mix with a riper peach note on the nose. With 10% aged in French oak, this Chardonnay trends toward the unoaked style—light bodied, crisp and fruit-forward. The streamlined, citrusy palate takes on a crunchy pear flavor, lightly dusted with talc. — A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $16 87 Sunset Hills 2013 Reserve Chardonnay ( Virginia ). Gooseberry and hop aromas are atypical for a Chardonnay, yet they surprisingly meld well with vanilla biscuit and peach tones. The medium-bodied palate brings lemon curd and brûléed peach flavors that carry to a vanilla-cream finish. Snappy acidity—presumably from the addition of 7% Petit Manseng—keeps the palate lively and in check. — A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 86…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 89 Montes 2015 Spring Harvest Sauvignon Blanc ( Leyda Valley). Passion fruit, lettuce, grapefruit and tropical aromas get this Sauvignon Blanc off to a nice start. Zesty, speedy and super fresh on the palate, with blazing acidity, this tastes of passion fruit, green herbs and grass, especially on a racy, slightly pithy finish. Guarachi Wine Partners. — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $16 88 Arboleda 2014 Sauvignon Blanc ( Aconcagua Costa ). Hard-driving aromas of nettle, jalapeño, sea brine, wet stones and grapefruit set up a chunky palate with a ton of weight. Passion fruit, orange and controlled vegetal flavors are in harmony. Drink now. Thiénot USA. — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $20 87 Quintay 2014 Q Grand Reserve Sauvignon Blanc ( Casablanca Valley). Initially, this smells vegetal and…

GRAND CRU 97 Louis Jadot 2013 Chapelle-Chambertin. Packed with tannins and with enormous structure, this wine is opulent while very firm. At the same time, smoky acidity shoots through all this density. From a great terroir, this wine shows minerality and its great structure well. Drink from 2023. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $288 97 Louis Jadot 2013 Chambertin Clos de Bèze. This wine is perfumed with gorgeous fruit that contrasts with the strict minerality. The tannins under the fruit are severe, solid, dark and promising enormous potential. Concentrated even while it celebrates great fruit, it is going to last for many years. Drink from 2023. Kobrand. Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $468 97 Joseph Drouhin 2012 Grands-Échezeaux. A firm and tannic wine, this has…

RED WINES AMARONE DELLA VALPOLICELLA CLASSICO 94 Fumanelli 2009 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Pressed blue flower, ripe blackskinned berry, baking spice, tobacco and leather aromas come together on this round, full-bodied wine. The delicious palate offers juicy wild cherry, raspberry jam, vanilla, cinnamon and licorice while pliant, velvety tannins offer elegant support. It deft-ly combines power and finesse. Drink through 2024. The Sorting Table. — K.O. abv: 15.5% Price: $80 94 Montecariano 2011 Amarone della Valpolicella Classico. Underbrush, dark berry, scorched earth and spice aromas emerge on this full-bodied red. The structured, refined palate delivers layers of ripe black cherry, blackberry jam, ripe raspberry, licorice and tobacco alongside firm, rounded tannins that give it a velvety texture. Drink 2017–2026. Soilair Selection. Cellar Selection. — K.O. abv: 16% Price: $88 94…

WHITE WINES 91 Dobogó 2012 Szent Tamás Betsek Vineyards Furmint ( Tokaji ). Medium gold in the glass, this wine has a nose of Valencia orange, pear and kumquat. Flavors of lychee, kumquat and apricot mingle on the palate, remaining strong into the mineral-rich finish. Winebow. Editors’ Choice. — J.J. abv: 14% Price: $25 90 Patricius 2013 Dry Száraz Furmint ( Tokaj). Enticing aromas of pear and white peach set the stage for flavors of peach nectar and slightly tart white plum. This wine is full in the mouth with a bright citrus note on the finish. Parkstreet. Best Buy. — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $15 90 Patricius 2013 Sárga Muskotály Furmint ( Tokaj ). Light straw to the eye, this dry Furmint has aromas of canned apricot and white…

Although most of the following reviews focus on single-malt Scotch, don’t be alarmed if you notice bottlings from a few other countries woven in: Australia, England, Ireland, France, India, Japan and the United States also produce noteworthy single malts. How to define single malt? In Scotch speak, the single means it’s from one distillery, and the malt refers to the malted (germinated) grain. When whiskies from more than one distillery are mingled together, it’s considered a blended whiskey. Since most whiskeys made in America (and other countries) are made at a single distillery anyway, odds are you’ve probably sampled a single malt without it being labeled as such. So this month, we deliberately made the category definition vague, calling for singlemalt whiskeys instead of the usual single-malt Scotch. In part,…

Digital Editorial Manager @mvataj toured vineyards in Okanagan Valley, British Columbia. At Summerhill Pyramid Winery, she tasted grapes off the vines. Photo Director @meg_baggott watched the team at South Africa's Boekenhoutskloof blend their signature wines to perfection. Senior Associate Digital Editor @joeybear85 tasted dazzling biodynamic Rieslings with Angela Kühn of the Peter Jakob Kühn winery in Rheingau, Germany. Associate Editor @annaliz8 sipped tiki cocktails at the recently opened @thepearlnyc—fire and seashells included. Spirits Editor @newman_kara sipped The Floating World, a gorgeous gin and Fu-Ki plum wine-based drink, to kick off Portland Cocktail Week. Art Director @juliaglea tasted through local gin, vodka and white rye whiskey at Denning’s Point Distillery in Beacon, New York. “Drinking #DomPerignon 1990 Rosé Oenothèque by the ocean. Great old Champagne. I rated it 97 points…

Here in the Northern Hemisphere, conventional wisdom is that oysters are best served from October through April. Yet, the best accompaniments to oysters are light, clean and crisp wines that speak less to winter than to the summer currently being enjoyed at the bottom of the world. To help you wash down these delectable bivalves and dream of the warm weather to come, we asked our reviewers of Southern Hemisphere wines to share their favorite oyster pairings. CHILE 90 SAN PEDRO 2014 1865 SINGLE VINEYARD SAUVIGNON BLANC (LEYDA VALLEY). Snappy aromas of briny citrus fruits, jalapeño and bell pepper leave no doubt that this is an oyster-friendly Sauvignon Blanc. The palate is minerally and crisp, with juicy acidity. Flavors of lime, pickle brine, gooseberry and wet stones finish bright and…

Ilove ripe flavors and full body in wine, and winemakers in the California regions I cover have no problem coaxing these qualities out of their grapes. But I also love complexity, texture, acidity and surprise. Luckily, in 2015, a growing number of winemakers showed that they do, too. I’m not going to write a diatribe against highalcohol, extremely ripe and overtly oaky wines. I think people should drink what they like. I do know these wines quite well, however, since my tasting beats include some of California’s jammiest red blends, high-octane Zinfandels and plump Chardonnays. I know them so well that I sometimes get tired of them. (I also love slow-cooked pork shoulder, but it’s too rich to eat often, so the left-overs tend to congeal in the fridge.) That’s…

Making the decision to double our annual Top 50 Spirits list was easy. Narrowing the list of stellar spirits down to an even 100? That was the hard part. Never before have there been so many great spirits from which to choose. It seems like I say that every year, but this year in particular, I’ve been lucky to sample a handful of spirits from distillers who’ve declared, “This bottle represents the apex of my experience.” Consider, for example, Don Pancho Origenes Reserva Rum Aged 30 Years. After more than 50 years as a hired gun making rum for a wide range of companies, this was the rum that Francisco “Don Pancho” Fernandez yearned to bottle—and it’s delicious, redolent with toffee and spice. Another astonishing bottle: Angel’s Envy Finished in…

2015 LIFETIME ACHIEVEMENT AWARD It is impossible to talk about the Renaissance of modern-day Italian wine without mentioning Angelo Gaja. Trailblazing, creative and influential, during his half-century career, Gaja has been a fundamental force in ushering in the New Age of Italian wine and in raising its image around the world. Gaja’s quest began in 1960, when he graduated from the Enological Institute of Alba with a diploma in enology. In 1961, at the age of 21, Gaja joined his family’s winemaking firm in the heart of Barbaresco. Founded by his greatgrandfather in 1859, it’s the region’s oldest producer. Before Gaja took the reins in 1969, his father had already improved winemaking practices and acquired some of the area’s top vineyard sites. Gaja took a more drastic approach to upping…

2015 IMPORTER OF THE YEAR Yale Sager, founder and president of Winesellers Ltd., could not be more proud of his sons, Adam and Jordan, as they assume increasing responsibilities at the Illinoisbased importer. When his sons first joined the company, Yale says he cautioned each: “You’re going to make mistakes. But better to make them earlier.” “I was absolutely thrilled my sons came into the business,” says Yale. “We have a great portfolio, and a good number are brands that Adam and Jordan created with top-notch people like the Zuccardis [Argentinean wine producers] or Mel Master.” According to Adam, a third of the importer’s total volume comes from brands he and Jordan created in cooperation with various international wine producers. “Six years ago, we were selling virtually no Italian or…

2015 INNOVATOR/EXECUTIVE OF THE YEAR It has been 27 years since Aurelio Montes and three partners launched a startup winery named Discover Wine (now called Montes). The intent was to make high quality, internationally accepted wines that could help push Chile beyond its value-formoney roots. Fueled by tireless worldwide marketing efforts, groundbreaking wines and a business model with innovation at its core, Montes, Wine Enthusiast’s New World Winery of the Year in 2003, is now one of Chile’s premier wineries. Approximately 95 percent of the 700,000 cases that Montes produces annually are sold in more than 100 countries, ranging in size from the Seychelles to the United States and China. “No one is a prophet in his own land,” says Montes from his home in Santiago. “Locally, there are expectations…

TEMPRANILLO 87 Brennan 2013 Tempranillo ( Texas ). Condensed dark cherry and plum meet some savory elements on the nose. Silky on entry, with prickling acidity, the medium-bodied palate boasts juicy black-fruit flavors and red-currant acidity. There’s enough tannic structure and fruit here to pair alongside hearty grilled fare. — A.P. abv: 14.3% Price: $26 87 Brennan 2012 Tempranillo ( Texas ). Sweet mesquite meets dark berries and anise on the nose of this Texan Tempranillo. The mediumbodied palate is juicy with red fruit, yet crisp in acidity and supported by ample tannins. Toasted coconut and vanilla adds depth to the finish. — A.P. abv: 14.3% Price: $26 86 Brennan 2013 Reserve Tempranillo ( Texas ). Red cherry and currant mix with sweet sawdust and anise-spiced gum on the nose.…

RIESLING 94 Fox Run 2011 Reserve Riesling ( Seneca Lake ). Extended bottle aging and impeccable fruit ripeness make this late-release Riesling an absolute showstopper. Wafting of honey, mango and grapefruit, this deeply concentrated wine saturates the palate in dense, creamy waves. Shimmering lime and mineral streaks elevate the midpalate and extend endlessly on the finish. It’s stunning now, but composed enough to hold well until at least 2025. Editors’ Choice. — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $30 89 Barnstormer 2014 Semi Dry Riesling ( Seneca Lake ). A hint of rose petal perfumes white peach and grapefruit on this elegant off-dry Riesling. The midpalate is softened by a burst of luscious apricot, while a zesty steak of lime balances a long, meandering finish. — A.I. abv: 12.2% Price: $18 88…

PINOT GRIS/GRIGIO 89 Astrolabe 2014 Province Pinot Gris ( Marlborough). For full review see page 169. abv: 13% Price: $23 89 Seifried 2014 Pinot Gris ( Nelson). Off-dry in style (it reportedly contains 12 g/L of residual sugar), this is fairly broad on the palate, offering a mélange of ripe melon and stone fruit accented by hints of ground ginger, cinnamon and pepper on the finish. Pacific Prime Wines. — J.C. abv: 13% Price: $18 88 Brancott 2014 Pinot Grigio ( Marlborough). The wine is almost salmon in hue, but don’t let that put you off. Layers of ground cinnamon help provide balance to the broad, ripe flavors of melon, pear and stone fruit. Pernod Ricard. — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $14 88 Kim Crawford 2014 Pinot Gris ( Marlborough).…

WHITE WINES CÔTES DE PROVENCE 92 Château Saint-Maur 2014 L´Excellence ( Côtes de Provence ). From the top range produced at the estate, this rich wine is kept refreshing by the acidity. Peach and pineapple fruits balance with a squeeze of lemon giving the wine a light touch. There is a tangy, orange zest accent in the crisp aftertaste. Private Cask Imports. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $45 91 Château Sainte-Marguerite 2014 Symphony Vermentino ( Côtes de Provence ). Packed in an elegant bottle, this is a 100% Vermentino (aka Rolle) wine. The wine has a naturally rich character that is generous while also having plenty of acidity. Lemon and ripe apricots combine easily and giving a smooth, creamy aftertaste. Dreyfus, Ashby & Co. — R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30…

RED WINES TRENTINO 89 Tenute Lunelli 2012 Maso Montalto Pinot Nero ( Trentino ). This elegantly structured red opens with aromas of red and black berry, lightly toasted oak and a whiff of coffee. The smooth palate offers wild cherry, black raspberry, espresso and white pepper. Firm but silky tannins and bright acidity provide the framework. Drink through 2017. Palm Bay International. — K.O. abv: 12% Price: $NA 88 Bottega Vinai 2013 Pinot Nero ( Trentino ). This elegant, savory red opens with aromas of wild berry, baking spice and a whiff of toast. The supple palate offers sour cherry, crushed raspberry, white pepper and a hint of cinnamon alongside silky tannins. Enjoy through 2016. Palm Bay International. — K.O. abv: 13% Price: $18 88 La Vis 2012 Ritratti Pinot…

WHITE WINES 88 Cramele Recas 2014 Sole Chardonnay ( Recas ). This wine offers an uncharacteristic bouquet of grapefruit pith and white flowers. It is full in the mouth, with flavors of green apple and crème brulee. The finish is dominated by a streak of minerality. Tri-Vin Imports. — J.J. abv: 13% Price: $17 88 Davino 2013 Domaine Ceptura Blanc ( Dealu Mare ). A blend of 50% Sauvignon Blanc, 40% Feteasca Alba (a native Romanian variety) and 10% Riesling Italico, this medium-straw colored wine has a bouquet of lemon skin with a hint of licorice. The flavor profile is dominated by lemon with soft spice notes. Albus Imports LLC. — J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $22 87 Cramele Recas 2014 Dreambird Pinot Grigio ( Viile Timisului). A bouquet of lemon…

With the holidays just around the corner and the cold days of winter on the horizon, there’s no better way to celebrate than with the beautiful bounty of seasonal selections brewers release this time of year. A common style for the season is winter warmer. Typically robust and loaded with traditional holiday notes of sweet baking spice, dark fruits like figs and plums and an often roasty character reminiscent of warming by the fire, winter warmers are excellent options for a variety of coolweather gatherings and feasts. Winter warmers tend to show a malt-driven core, with softer accents of hoppy bitterness, though that will vary depending on the brewer’s style and location. Though the addition of spices are not necessary, and are actually more uncommon with international examples, domestic brewers…

Josep Roca is the head sommelier and one of three brothers who run the Michelin three-star El Celler de Can Roca. Located in Girona, about 75 minutes northeast of Barcelona by car, it was named World’s Best Restaurant 2015 by a panel of nearly 1,000 restaurant experts. Known for his humility and warmth (and a 60,000-bottle wine cellar), Roca uses wine to help create a complete gastronomic experience worthy of the number one spot. First of all, how did you celebrate the win? We set up tables in a parking lot and made huge pans of paella with the staff, drinking Cava and easy-drinking Catalan wine from ¿Vamos? ¡Vamos! What makes the wine service at Can Roca so special? We try to make an emotional wine pairing. With the dozen…

January is the perfect time to visit Montgomery, Alabama, where countless celebrations around Martin Luther King’s birthday showcase the history of the civil rights leader’s home. At the city’s hottest restaurant, The A&P Social, Executive Chef Miguel Figueroa updates Southern classics like this blackened redfish, pioneered in the 1970s by the late Cajun chef Paul Prudhomme. BLACKENED REDFISH WITH LENTILS, TOMATO SALAD AND BUTTER SAUCE Courtesy Miguel Figueroa, executive chef, The A&P Social, Montgomery, Alabama 1½ cups lentils 1½ teaspoons ground sweet paprika 1½ teaspoons cayenne 1½ teaspoons garlic powder 1½ teaspoons onion powder 1½ teaspoons salt 2 tablespoons chopped onion 1 bay leaf ½ teaspoon black peppercorns ½ cup white vinegar ½ cup white wine 1 cup heavy cream 1 stick butter, at room temperature Salt, to taste 4…

BY THE EDITORS OF WINE ENTHUS IAST MAGAZINE This year, Wine Enthusiast’s tasting panel reviewed more than 19,800 wines from around the globe, spanning Old World and New World wine regions alike. In the last two issues, we celebrated wine with excellent quality-to-price ratios (Top 100 Best Buys) as well as those cellar-worthy options that need a bit of rest before they’re best enjoyed (Top 100 Cellar Selections). So now comes the show stopper: The Enthusiast 100. This yearly roundup of the best-of-the-best showcases the incredible diversity of high-scoring wines on the market. Each was chosen for a myriad of reasons, including high quality-to-price ratios, good market availability and “buzz,” an x-factor that can’t be precisely defined. The wines span 16 countries, hitting every wine style imaginable—from dry whites and…

Sixteen years ago, the editors of Wine Enthusiast conceived an annual award program to honor individuals and companies that have contributed to the success of the wine industry. Over the years, the size and scope of our Wine Star Awards have expanded to encompass spirits and beer, and to showcase hands-on consumer gatekeepers such as mixologists and wine directors. We recognize how multifaceted and rich the wine culture and its peripheral facets have become, and continually embrace and acknowledge the trailblazers who are impacting what you put in your glass every day. What does it take to be a Wine Star winner? Among other attributes, energy, courage, groundbreaking vision and business acumen. We invite you to turn the page and learn about these vanguards, whose work is changing the drinking…

2015 WINEMAKER OF THE YEAR Going into Jean-Baptiste Lecaillon’s office at the Louis Roederer cellars in Reims, France, you’re confronted with piles of folders both on the floor and on shelves. All have dates on them. “I’m going back over our harvest records since 1832,” Lecaillon says. “I’m putting them all on a spreadsheet. What they are telling me is that our ancestors were looking for ripe grapes to make wines first, Champagnes second.” Which is exactly where Lecaillon is headed today. In many cases, he’s also using the same methods—biodynamic and organic farming, fermenting in wood, picking grapes for ripeness, not for acidity—to make a new-old style of great Champagne. “I want to reconnect with the past to make the wines of the future,” he says. Lecaillon, 49, is…

2015 SPIRIT BRAND OF THE YEAR The E. & J. Gallo company is best known for producing wine. But it also has a thriving spirits division that includes New Amsterdam, a fast-growing success story known for gin and vodka. The story starts in 2003, when the modern-day cocktail revolution was still in its infancy. Gin selections were considerably more limited than today. “There had been very little innovation in decades,” says Ernest J. Gallo, vice president and general manager of E. & J. Gallo Winery’s spirits division, which also includes E&J Brandy and Familia Camarena Tequila. In the years preceding today’s craft distillery boom, there were few American-made gin brands, as imported, London dry-style gins were the rule. After years of development, New Amsterdam Gin was introduced in 2007. It…

This time of year, everyone is looking for gift ideas. If wine is on your giving list, the 2013 Pinot Noirs from Sonoma are a good place to start. A stellar vintage almost across the board, you can find standout wines from veteran producers, newcomers and resurrected brands. What’s so special about the 2013 wines? Their structure and ageability. They’re less instantaneously likable than the 2012s, less flaunty and more tightly wound. They’ll take a little more time to get to know, like a Wilco album or Springsteen’s Nebraska years. But down the road? You’ll appreciate them more. They’re less instantaneously likeable than the 2012s, less fl aunty and more tightly wound... but down the road? You’ll appreciate them more. Among the top picks this month are wines from the…

WHITE WINES 86 St. Julian 2013 Braganini Reserve Albariño ( Michigan ). This is an interesting variety choice for Michigan, yet it seems to show some typicity. Muddled stone fruit meets yellow plum and milky, white flowers on the nose. The palate is focused on citrus and pineapple rind while showing good overall balance of acidity. — A.P. abv: 12% Price: $15 86 St. Julian 2013 Reserve Traminette ( Lake Michigan Shore ). A heady, floral aroma of rose petal meets faint tones of grapefruit rind and unripe tropical fruit on the nose. Round in weight, the palate is riper in character, with an additional note of honey on the close. — A.P. abv: 12% Price: $13 85 Bowers Harbor 2013 Unwooded Chardonnay ( Old Mission Peninsula ). Green apple…

ILLINOIS 86 Illinois Sparkling Co. NV Brut ( Illinois). The restrained nose of this Frontenac Gris and St. Pepin sparkling wine shows steely lemon and cheese rind notes. The palate brings a bit more character, with riper tones of crisp green apple and pear carried along by a mild mousse of bubbles. — A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $26 85 Illinois Sparkling Co. NV Franken’s French Hybrid Brut ( Illinois ). This brut sparkler is made from Chambourcin, a hybrid grape of uncertain parentage. Fresh figs and dates come to mind on the nose, while the linear palate is persistently citrus-driven. — A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $32 84 Illinois Sparkling Co. NV Heirloom Sparkling Rosé ( Illinois). Medium-salmon in color, this sparkling rosé made from Marechal Foch offers raspberry and strawberry…

RIESLING 94 Domaine Ostertag 2013 Clos Mathis Riesling ( Alsace ). Subtle but luscious notes of Mirabelle plum, ripe greengage and peach lend a seductive touch to this taut, structured and beautifully textured wine whose palate is reminiscent of bot fresh apple peel and grapefruit zest. Covers of fruit are tautly spread across spokes of acidity, creating a wonderful tension that keeps you wanting more. Authentic in its appeal, it’s delicious now but will drink well until at least 2025. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant. — A.K. abv: 13% Price: $47 94 Domaine Ostertag 2013 Fronholz Riesling ( Alsace ). Lemon-scented Mirabelle notes hover on the nose and turn into fully fledged, ripe plum on the palate where the seam of fresh, enlivening and brightening acidity sets a lively theme. The…

WHITE WINES CORBIÈRES 90 Château Ollieux Romanis 2013 Cuvée Prestige ( Corbières ). Aromas of chalk, limestone, sweet pea, orange blossom, lime leaf, ginger and nectarine dance on the nose of this beautiful white. The medium-weight mouthfeel offers fresh, attractive flavors of green melon and citrus rind, with a baking spice accent that lingers softly on the finish. Langdon Shiverick. — L.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 90 Gérard Bertrand 2013 Château de Villemajou Grand Vin ( Corbières ). Crisp, light and ethereal, this blend of Roussanne, Marsanne and Vermentino offers attractive herbal aromas of lavender, laurel and honeysuckle that are partnered with ripe fruit tones of apple, yellow melon and orange. The medium-weight palate is smoothly textured, with good cut to the ripe fruit flavors and a lingering sweet-spice accent…

WHITE WINES 89 Sonberk 2010 Ryzlink Rýnský ( Moravia ). This deep straw-colored wine has a nose of mango, caramelized pineapple and canned apricots. A strong backbone of minerality runs through the core, bolstering flavors of peach and tropical fruit. Czech Wine Imports, Inc. — J.J. abv: 13% Price: $40 88 Vino z Czech 2014 Chateau Valtice Rivaner ( Moravia ). Using the local name for the Müller-Thurgau grape, this Rivaner features aromas of ripe yellow peach and canned pears. It is gentle on the palate, with flavors of peach and tropical fruits. Czech Wine Imports, Inc. — J.J. abv: 12% Price: $15 88 Vino z Czech 2013 Michlovský Riesling ( Moravia ). This dry Riesling offers rich floral aromas of lilies and freesia. Soft floral notes continue on the…

SLOVENIA 89 Edi Simcic 2014 Giocato Pinot Grigio ( Primorska ). Light straw in the glass, this wine offers green herbal aromas on the nose, complemented by floral notes and a whiff of sandalwood. Its green apple flavors and strong minerality make for an enjoyable quaff. August Wine Group. Best Buy. — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 89 Edi Simcic 2014 Giocato Sauvignon Blanc ( Primorska ). This wine has a nose of lemon peel, lemon grass, and a freshly cut lawn. It is clean in the mouth, with flavors of lemon, lime and Seckle pear that wind down to a mineral-laden finish. August Wine Group. Best Buy. — J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 89 Vino Kupljen 2013 Renski Rizling Selection Mon Royal Riesling ( Slovenia ). Dark straw in…