Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2015 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Those principles guided Barney Fetzer in 1968, when he turned an old sheep barn into a winery and founded Fetzer Vineyards in California’s Mendocino County. In tune with the rebellious spirit of the 1960s, Barney sparked a revolution in winemaking, introducing eco-innovations that are viticultural traditions today. Nearly 50 years later, Fetzer Vineyards remains a pioneer in sustainable winemaking. Te company also continues its commitment to making high-quality wines that people can enjoy every day. “My winemaking philosophy is always to exceed expectations,” says Winemaker Charlie Gilmore. Taste the Quality Fetzer sources grapes from its 1,100 acres of estate vineyards—all sustainable—plus respected growers, including many who have worked with the company for 40 years. “Te biggest improvement for our wines comes from our ability to source fruit from better regions,”…

Many people start at the outside of the plate and work inward, or sneak a glimpse at their host for guidance. But if you’re the one setting the table, well, you’re on your own. Most five-piece flatware sets come with two all-purpose forks, but those who entertain frequently keep an array of shapes and sizes in their cutlery chests. One rule of thumb: Forks go to the left of the dinner plate in the order of use, with one exception, the oyster fork. SALAD FORK Recognized by its often-reinforced center tines, the four-pronged fork has an extra-wide left tine that can be employed as a cutting edge for vegetables and lettuce. If salad is served after the main course, it will be placed closest to the left side of…

Stouts have long suffered from a perception problem. They’re oft en dismissed as dark and heavy, the tint clouding the opinions of many. That’s because few brews can match the creamy majesty of a milk stout, fall’s easiest-drinking fridge stuffer. These dark beauties are brewed with lactose, which imparts sweetness and incomparable richness. The style has caught on with craft brewers, who have made milk stouts their newest flavor playground by adding different ingredients like oats, coffee and vanilla beans. Here are five releases milking the trend. LEFT HAND BREWING COMPANY MILK STOUT NITRO Taking a page from Guinness, the Coloradans goosed their mochatouched milk stout with nitrogen, turning the beer into a roasty milkshake. To achieve the proper cascading effect, pour hard. HARDYWOOD GINGERBREAD STOUT Brewed in…

Even in a society with a heightened awareness of sustainability and organic farming, the concept of biodynamic farming remains a mystery to most. In layman’s terms, it’s organic cultivation taken to the highest degree. A more detailed and technical definition is offered up by Joseph Brinkley, biodynamic vineyard manager for Bonterra Organic Vineyards. “The biodynamic farmer strives to work within the natural and universal laws of life and integrate them into the day-to-day farming activities. The view is that life begets life and, thus, any meaningful fertility must come from a living source versus a synthetic chemical.” As it relates to viniculture, biodynamic farming revolves around treating a vineyard as a single biological entity, a “closed system,” if you will. As such, very few inputs from outside that system are…

Dundee, Oregon A second generation of harmonious wines The down-home, country-comfort styling of Lange Estate Winery and Vineyards’ 2013 Willamette Valley Pinot Noir (91 points, $25) flows naturally from the Lange family, who founded their winery in the Dundee Hills in 1987. Don Lange was a successful singer/songwriter back in the day and still maintains a recording studio at the winery. He and Wendy Lange moved to Oregon with their young son, Jesse, to focus on Pinot Noir, Pinot Gris and Chardonnay. Jesse, now the general manager and winemaker, says his earliest wine memories are from the tender age of seven, picking grapes at the Sanford & Benedict Vineyard in Santa Barbara County. In Oregon, Jesse says he grew up “with farming and wine as a part of my being.”…

Santa Rosa, California Introducing folks to quality Pinot Adam Lee, winemaker at Siduri Wines in California’s Sonoma County, takes a macro view on making affordable Pinot Noir: He simply wants more Americans to drink wine. A native Texan and frequent business traveler, Lee knows that people across the U.S. don’t feel as comfortable about wine as they do in Sonoma. Even at $30 a bottle and under, wine is a luxury for most. Siduri’s 2013 Sonoma County Pinot Noir (87 points) is $22, one of the best wine deals in the world. “We just don’t make money [on it], but we have a commitment to making something for a wine drinker just starting out that’s at a more reasonable price point,” Lee says. “We need more people to drink wine…

Red Wines 92 Château Duplessis 2012 Moulis-en-Médoc; $25. It’s said that Duplessis was once a hunting lodge for a nephew of Cardinal Richelieu. Today, it’s one of three chateaus owned by Marie-Laure Lurton, one of six children of Lucien Lurton, who built an empire of Bordeaux chateaus. Wines from this estate tend toward structure and austerity when young, and they blossom into serious wines with age. This Cru Bourgeois is typical of the style. It starts dark and dense and, as it matures, the black fruits start to shine, working within a firm, food-friendly tannic structure. Saranty Imports. Why buy?Duplessis ages well and has complex, serious structure. 92 Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux 2012 Moulis-en-Médoc; $29. This 79-acre estate is the home of the Cordonnier family, which bought it in 1967.…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director/Senior Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Assistant Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Mike DeSimone, JeffJenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials appear following a…

RIESLING 94 Hermann J. Wiemer 2013 HJW Vineyard Riesling ( Seneca Lake ). Taut and crisp compared to the soft er, riper Magdalena or Josef Vineyard bottlings, this polished, steely wine is a showcase of brash mineral style. It’s dry on the palate, but flavors of white grapefruit and lime seem kissed with a spray of honey. Drinks beautifully now but should continue to improve through at least 2025. Editors’ Choice. — A.I. abv: 12% Price: $ 39 94 Hermann J. Wiemer 2013 Josef Vineyard Riesling ( Seneca Lake ). The 2013 Josef Vineyard is quieter on the nose than the more exuberant Magdalena, but the palate packs plenty of luscious fruit and floral punch. Semidry in style, it’s feather light in texture yet concentrated apricot and yellow-cherry flavors are…

WHITE WINES RÍAS BAIXAS 93 Adegas Gran Vinum 2014 Selección Especial Albariño ( Rías Baixas). For full review see page 112. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 27 92 As Laxas 2014 Albariño ( Rías Baixas). Pure minerals, peach and melon aromas come with a hint of leesy dust. This wine is elegant, chiseled and minerally on the palate. Flavors of dusty apple and citrus end long and stony, with class. Laxas is a top-flight Albarino producer and this vintage is one of its best. Drink now. Frontier Wine Imports . Editors’ Choice. — M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 22 91 Bágoa do Miño 2014 Lágrima Albariño ( Rías Baixas ). Leesy aromas of pear, apple and vanilla are pure and generous, with intensity. Layered and elegant on the palate,…

SPARKLING WINES 94 Bolney Wine Estate 2009 Blanc de Blancs ( England). This has the crunchy, enticing freshness of the very first, pale, almost translucent apples of the year. Underneath it brings earth, chalk, stone and yeast. The autolysis is distinct but expresses itself as a restrained, chalky background that imbues the entire wine with a soft , gentle and very fine creaminess. This is elegant, serious and lasting. Tenzing Wine and Spirits . — A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $ NA 94 Hattingley Valley Wines 2010 Blanc de Blancs ( England). Gentle white blossom, white currant and Golden Delicious apple unite on an intriguing, subtly aromatic nose. Earthy, stony elements lend depth and resonance. This is so integrated that the delicious, ripe apple fruit is completely embraced by earth and…

With fall in full swing, drinking preferences oft en trend towards more robust and full-flavored selections than those we typically enjoy during the summer. The holidays are also just around the corner, and family and friends will be gathering, so it’s best to be prepared with a fridge stocked full of chilly weather’s best friend: Imperial IPAs. Imperial IPAs are basically India pale ales kicked up to 11— more malts, more alcohol, and most importantly, more hops. The result is a complex, strong sipping beer with IBUs, or international bittering units, climbing above 60 and, in some cases, well beyond at upwards of 100. Imperial IPAs are perfect for the season. They lend themselves wonderfully to Thanksgiving fare, especially sweet potatoes, savory stuffing and even turkey—they off er assertive earthy…

In Spain, there is jamón (ham) and there is jamón ibérico, the latter coming exclusively from a breed of pig known as pata negra, or “black hoof.” And while most Spanish hams are delicious, jamón ibérico is the country’s best ham bar none. Fitting then that J. García Carrión, Europe’s largest winery, would choose to name its new Spanish wine brand after this iconic animal. Because once you’ve tried a bite of pata negra ham, you’re not going to want to go back to the basic stuff. Similarly, once you’ve cracked open your first bottle of Pata Negra Rioja Reserva or Cava Brut Reserva, you’re not going to want to go back to what you were drinking before. With wineries in Rioja, Ribera del Duero, Cava, Valdepeñas, Rueda, Toro and…

At New York City restaurants Quality Italian and Quality Meats, Executive Chef Craig Koketsu serves fun, innovative twists on steakhouse classics alongside extensive wine lists. His next restaurant, Quality Eats, opens this month in Manhattan’s West Village, but Koketsu took the time to give us this smart alternative for Thanksgiving left overs. 8 slices thick-cut bacon, cut crosswise into ¼-inch strips 1 large onion, finely chopped 1 cup finely chopped mushrooms 2 cups turkey (preferably dark meat), cut into ½-inch pieces 3 cups cooked rice, preferably short-grain Japanese or sushi rice, cooled 2 cups turkey stuffing (if moist, dry in a 300˚F oven until crumbly) ¼ cup soy sauce ½ cup gravy 2 eggs, beaten Freshly ground black pepper Salt (optional) 1 bunch scallions, finely chopped (green and white parts)…

It’ been more than 20 years since John Berendt’s Midnight in the Garden of Good and Evil helped make Savannah one of the country’s most alluring retreats. The sultry coastal city has evolved a lot since then, as reflected in a roster of refined restaurants and bars that still pay homage to its deep Southern roots. Add to that the gluttonous and lively Savannah Food & Wine Festival (November 9–15), and you’ve got yourself an ideal wine and food lovers’ outing. Linger at these eight hot spots. THE GREY An original skylight and metal accents evoking vintage buses are glorious reminders that The Grey is housed in a 1938 Art Deco Greyhound terminal. Sidle up to the horseshoe-shaped bar for Mashama Bailey’s catfish tagine spiked with preserved lemon, or the…

Value might be a subjective term, but the concept is one that’s universally understood— what gives you the most bang for your buck? While the reviewers here at Wine Enthusiast taste wines at every price point, at the end of the day, we’re no different. We want to find high quality wines at accessible prices for everyday drinking, too. Our Best Buy designation identifies those high quality-to-price ratio treasures. If a wine is given a certain numerical score—on the high side of the 100-point scale—and its suggested retail price is $15 or less, it may be designated a Best Buy. Out of the nearly 19,500 wines we reviewed this year, less than seven percent (about 1,200) achieved this distinction, which gives you an idea of just how special these finds…

Turner, Oregon Taking whole clusters mainstream Christine Collier, winery director for Willamette Valley Vineyards, grew up looking out her bedroom window at the new vineyard and winery taking shape on a south slope of Oregon’s Salem Hills. Later, she sold friendship bracelets in the tasting room, ran through the vines to keep in shape, and even house-sat for the Bernau family, who founded Willamette Valley Vineyards in the mid-1980s. Today, she leads the company’s winemaking and vineyard operations, as well as the customer experience at each estate. We asked her about the specific winemaking decisions behind the winery’s 2014 Whole Cluster Pinot Noir (90 points; $22). “Many wineries that make an affordable, entry-level wine typically declassify it from their other wines,” she says. “This is not the case with our…

Lompoc, California Crafting recession-busting values Winemaker Aaron Walker remembers the day in 2009 when, in the grips of the Great Recession, the Pali Wine Co. team realized people were no longer dropping $50 for a bottle of single-vineyard Pinot Noir. It had been the Lompoc-based winery’s bread and butter since 2005. “We were looking for a way to survive and capitalize on a bad economy,” says Walker, so they went to the store and bought 15 bottles of Pinot priced below $30. Walker, along with Pali’s Co-founder Tim Perr and Consulting Winemaker Kenneth Juhasz, blind-tasted them. “It was very obvious that the quality of Pinot under $30 was really crappy,” says Walker, who joined Pali in 2007 and took over as winemaker in 2008. “We thought there was potential for…

Why buy?Top classedgrowth attention to detail at a fraction of the price. 91 Château La Garricq 2012 Moulis-en-Médoc; $25. Here’s another Moulis wine that shows the excellent value from this impressive Medoc appellation. La Garricq is just an eight-acre vineyard. The old Petit Verdot vines convinced the Cazeneuve family to buy the estate in 1993. This Cru Bourgeois has 20-percent Petit Verdot in the blend, almost unheard of in Bordeaux. It gives this wine great color and a rounded, full-bodied blackberry character. This perfumed wine needs to age, so drink from 2018. Millesima USA. Why buy?The high percentage of Petit Verdot is fascinating in itself. 91 Château Larose-Trintaudon 2012 Haut-Médoc; $25. One of the largest estates in the Medoc, with 430 acres of vines, this misses being in Pauillac by…

97 Cobb 2012 Diane Cobb Coastlands Vineyard Pinot Noir ( Sonoma Coast ). Named for winemaker Ross Cobb’s late mother, who more than 20 years ago planted the Coastlands Vineyards’ dryfarmed vines—some of the oldest in the region—this exquisitely distinctive wine celebrates all that is extreme and remarkable about the marriage of site, style and variety. Offering bay laurel in abundance, it has plenty of body to remain vibrant and complex, marked entirely in forest floor and heady allspice, with a nuance of cherry and white pepper on the finish. Editors’ Choice. — V.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 85 94 Chamisal Vineyards 2012 Chamise Chardonnay ( Edna Valley). This wine by winemaker Fintan du Fresne shows sea salt, apple blossom, cherimoya and tangerine rinds on the nose. Flavors are clean…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 89 Kingston Family 2014 Cariblanco Sauvignon Blanc ( Casablanca Valley ). Aromas of snap pea, tropical fruits and grass comprise the nose. This feels citrusy and pure, with salty, briny grapefruit and tangerine flavors. On the finish, this falls offa touch, with yeasty, bready notes filling the voids. Kingston Family Vineyards . — M.S. abv: 13% Price: $ 18 88 Garces Silva 2014 Boya Sauvignon Blanc ( Leyda Valley). Grass and bell pepper aromas define the nose on this lithe white. Following the nose, the palate is tangy, angular and sharp. Lively flavors of lemon, scallion and tarragon finish long, with hard-driving acidity. Vine Connections . — M.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 18 85 Calcu 2014 Sauvignon Blanc ( Colchagua Valley ). Gaseous aromas settle on saline, chlorine…

RED WINES SAINT-ÉMILION 92 Château la Chapelle aux Moines 2012 SaintÉmilion . At the eastern end of Saint-Emilion, this vineyard is close to Castillon. The wine has structure and density, with powerful tannins that are still filling out. Delicious, juicy black plum and damson flavors are going to be full and generous, while remaining fruity. Drink from 2018. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd . Editors’ Choice. — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ 22 90 Château Cormeil-Figeac 2012 Saint-Émilion. It’s almost worth buying this bottling just for the extravagant medieval label design. Luckily the wine is lives up to the heraldic billing. It is rich while also well structured. Juicy berry fruits and fresh black currant acidity show well against a stilltannic structure. The wine comes from the Moreaud family. Drink…

BARBERA D’ASTI SUPERIORE 90 Michele Chiarlo 2012 La Court ( Barbera d’Asti Superiore ). Fresh and structured, this off ers aromas of ripe dark-skinned berry, mature plum, violet, coff ee and baking spice. On the smooth palate, notes of chocolate, chopped mint and clove accent the black cherry core. Bright acidity and fine-grained tannins provide balance and structure. Kobrand . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 50 89 Bersano 2011 Generala ( Barbera d’Asti Superiore Nizza ). Baked earth, pressed rose, coff ee, cocoa and plum aromas emerge on this full-bodied red. The round, hearty palate doles out mature black cherry, juicy blackberry, licorice and baking spice alongside velvety tannins. You’ll also notice the warmth of alcohol on the close. Drink sooner rather than later to capture freshness and fruit…

Six years ago, my partner Jeff and I visited Rioja. It was the first time we had visited purely in pursuit of fun. While dining at Restaurante Alameda, a high-end but simple restaurant in the tiny village of Fuenmayor, we feasted on a perfectly grilled chuletón de buey, an oversized rib steak seasoned with only salt and pepper. We caught the attention of a local winemaker, mainly because Americans don’t usually vacation in Rioja during the dead of winter. We returned to Restaurante Alameda this past spring, hoping its chuletón was as good on the plate as it was in memory. It was the best steak I had ever eaten—and I eat a lot of steak. As we began to tuck in, the winemaker came to our table and asked…

ACADIA Chicago, Illinois This sleek upscale eatery—inspired by coastal Maine, surprisingly— hits all the right notes for an autumnal feast. Start out with a truffle- and celery-flecked chestnut soup paired with an amontillado Sherry from Bodegas Valdespino, making your way to the turkey saltimbocca served with cornbread pudding, salt-baked carrots and Domaine de la Charbonniere’s 2010 Les Hautes Brusquieres Cuvee Speciale from Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Dessert is an ode to the season, too: a sticky toffee apple cake with vanilla ice cream and smoked maple pecans paired with Le Bocce’s 2007 Vin Santo del Chianti Classico. Acadia’s five-course dinner is served from 1–7 pm, $85 per person, $135 with wine pairings. acadiachicago.com DRY CREEK KITCHEN Healdsburg, California A dressed-up yet cool coastal vibe makes this quintessential white-tablecloth Sonoma Valley steakhouse a perfect…

With powerful yet balanced ripeness, tradition-bucking blends and a proud Wild West attitude, Paso Robles is one of the nation’s—and some would argue, world’s— most innovative wine regions. But this massive, diverse appellation in California’s Central Coast, divvied up into 11 distinct districts just a year ago, may someday be known simply as one of the best. Nearly every grape on the planet can find a happy home in its micro climates, from Pinot Noir cooled by the coastal fog of the Templeton Gap District to Aglianico that’s scorched by the blistering sun of the Paso Robles Highlands District. Yet the stalwarts Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah (and their respective Bordeaux- and Rhonestyle cousins) thrive throughout the region, from the shady, calcareous shale-crusted hills of the Adelaida District to the rocky…

Now that carrots no longer have cocktail shock value, bartenders are working with different seasonal root vegetables—notably, the humble parsnip. Once juiced, its mildly sweet, slightly earthy flavor profile “screams autumn,” according to The Punch Room’s Bob Peters. COCKTAIL CLASS: The Dry Shake Why do you need to shake this recipe twice? That first shake without ice, called a “dry shake,” ensures that the honey will melt completely into the cocktail. This technique is also used to help egg whites emulsify. The shake with ice mixes, chills and dilutes. THE ALLEN PARSNIPS PROJECT Recipe courtesy Bob Peters, head mixologist, The Punch Room at The Ritz-Carlton, Charlotte, North Carolina ½ orange 2 ounces vodka, like Tito’s Handmade Vodka 1 ounce freshly pressed parsnip juice (approximately 2–3 peeled parsnips) ½ ounce ginger…

Pinot Noir has a reputation for being a difficult and unforgiving grape variety. Couple that with the variable weather conditions in the grape’s original home of Burgundy and burgeoning worldwide demand, and it’s easy to understand why most entry-level Pinot Noirs fall short of quality expectations. Thankfully, these American wineries buck the trend by off ering high quality Pinot Noirs for $30 or less.…

Philo, California A history of direct-toconsumer sales The coastal terroir in Northern California’s remote Anderson Valley makes elegant Pinot Noir possible for Navarro Vineyards. But it’s the 42-year-old winery’s focus on direct-to-consumer sales that helps make its Pinots surprisingly affordable. Winemaker Jim Klein paused during his 24th harvest for the winery to discuss its well-balanced 2013 Anderson Valley Pinot (88 points, $20) and more assertive 2012 Methode à l’Ancienne Pinot Noir (91 points, $30). Both are great values in a region where Pinot is more oft en $50–75. Navarro sells 85 percent of its wine directly to consumers, which keeps prices low. “Our $30 wine can go toe-to-toe with wines that are $50, but we really don’t need that extra markup because of the way we do business,” says Klein.…

You’ve probably been told many times that Bordeaux makes great value wines. Maybe you don’t believe it. Many headlines tout high prices and auction records. So here’s proof: The 30 wines described here are all delicious, and all retail for $30 or less. I reviewed 850 bottled wines from the 2012 vintage, and picked 28 of my favorite values. It’s an attractive vintage that yielded wines to drink over the next two to three years. For the “I can’t wait” crowd, there are two whites from the 2014 vintage. Many of these wines come from high-quality producers working in top vineyards and renowned appellations. Some are simpler Bordeaux, but produced with just as much care. This is a small cross-section of what Bordeaux is really about. If you check out…

Washington wines are oft en noted for their stylistic consistency across vintages due to always-warm summers in the Columbia Valley and the widespread use of irrigation. The last five years, however, have been an exception. The state saw its coolest vintage on record in 2011, which produced more elegant wines than typical. This was followed by the state’s warmest vintage to date in 2014. These young wines seem destined to be known for their opulent fruit. The 2012 vintage—the year from which most of the red wines in this month’s Buying Guide hail—was a Goldilocks vintage for Washington. The year tracked almost perfectly to 20-year historical averages for heat accumulation. The results are quintessential Washington wines, with generous, ripe fruit flavors supported by lively acids and tight tannins. These wines…

CHARDONNAY 94 Bien Nacido 2012 Chardonnay ( Santa Maria Valley ). A vivid bouquet of white flowers is cut by a pungent, pithy funkiness of crushed ants and iodine on this classic bottling by the Miller family and winemaker Trey Fletcher. The intriguing palate is tensely layered, with grapefruit pith, lime-sprayed limestone and a bit of almond oil on the finish, proving uniquely spicy and incredibly long-lasting. — M.K. abv: 14.1% Price: $ 45 94 Chamisal Vineyards 2012 Chamise Chardonnay ( Edna Valley). For full review see page 111. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 60 94 Shafer 2013 Red Shoulder Ranch Chardonnay ( Carneros). For full review see page 112. abv: 14.9% Price: $ 52 93 Bargetto 2013 Regan Vineyards Reserve Chardonnay ( Santa Cruz Mountains). Ripe apples and pears meet…

CHENIN BLANC 90 Cederberg 2014 Chenin Blanc ( Cederberg ). Attractive notes of fynbos, savory herbs, green peppercorn and sweet grass give an herbal edge to the nose of this well-balanced wine, with supporting notes of yellow apple, snappy pear and grapefruit peel. The palate is bright and refreshing, with prickly acidity that lift s the green fig and apple flavors. Banks Channel . Best Buy. — L.B. abv: 13% Price: $ 14 89 MAN Family Wines 2014 Free-run Steen Chenin Blanc ( Coastal Region ). Hints of lanolin, waxy green-apple skin and lime peel add depth to the pear, melon rind and honeycomb core of this delicious white wine. It’s light, refreshing and balanced, with zingy lime-juice acidity adding verve to the palate while accents of sweet grass and…

WHITE WINES CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE 92 André Brunel 2013 Les Cailloux ( Châteauneuf-du-Pape ). This is a full-bodied, richly textured blend of 80% Roussanne, 10% Grenache Blanc and 10% Clairette. Toasted marshmallow, pineapple and peach flavors finish long and mouthwatering. Robert Kacher Selections . — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 65 91 Domaine de Nalys 2012 Eicelènci ( Châteauneuf-du-Pape ). Grilled yellow plum and anise aromas set the stage for this blend of 47% Roussanne, 40% Grenache Blanc and 13% Clairette. It’s full and plump on the palate, with smoky notes that accent the plum and melon flavors on the lengthy finish. Baron Francois Ltd . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 60 90 Château Maucoil 2014 Trésor des Papes ( Châteauneuf-du-Pape ). This is a rich, toasty white Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Notes of…

At the Canadian Whisky Awards held in Victoria, BC earlier this year, Forty Creek founder John Hall took the podium to accept a Lifetime Achievement award. “Canadian whisky is Canada’s spirit,” Hall declared. “It’s like hockey or maple syrup.” He has a point. Canada’s homegrown spirit is a point of patriotic pride, much as Americans love to celebrate made-inthe-USA Bourbon. Hall—who sold Forty Creek to Campari USA in 2014 for a reported $120.5 million— rightly scooped up eight medals for various bottlings at the awards ceremony that evening. (Though not reviewed below, the Forty Creek Barrel Select is well worth seeking out.) But somehow, quietly, Canadian whisky has reached a crossroads in the last year or two. It’s no longer just a mild-mannered whisky meant for mixing. Just look at…