Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2015 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

There’s no denying that the ways we share information today are vastly dif erent than in eras past. Today, the immediacy of the Internet means that practically no topic, no interest, no corner of the world is lef untouched. Staying nationally or globally current is as easy as f ring up your phone. The digital age has had a huge impact on wine, beer and spirits culture in America. Conversations about everything from the best Pinot under $20 to what constitutes a natural wine are fast and furious, and many of the best (and meatiest) are taking place online. With importers, retailers, winemakers and beyond among their ranks, these are the pioneers who are influencing what you find on store shelves and on restaurant tables, and shaping the landscape of…

These green gnocchi from Florence are one of Italy’s many less-known regional hand-shaped pastas featured in Pasta By Hand (Chronicle Books, 2015), Portland chef Jenn Louis’s (Lincoln, Sunshine Tavern) eye-opening new cookbook. Have plenty of wine to wash down these delectable dumplings: Strozzapreti, “priest stranglers,” are named for a hungry holy man who ate too many, too fast. STROZZAPRETI ¾ pound lacinato kale or white chard 5 tablespoons fresh bread crumbs 2 eggs 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons ricotta cheese, preferably fresh 1 cup plus 1 tablespoon finely grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, plus more for serving Freshly grated nutmeg, to taste Kosher salt, to taste Freshly ground black pepper, to taste Melted butter, for serving Heat a large pot of water until boiling. Add kale or chard and blanch for…

In the Lone Star State, barbecue inflames more passionate debate than politics. Yet, it’s simply slow-smoked meat. Your choice of meat, rub and sauce defines what kind of Texan you are. While much past acclaim focused on rural barbecue joints, the trend has clearly come to the city (think Franklin Barbecue in Austin, where even President Obama stood on line). And without the dry county limitations prevalent in small-town Texas, the traditional iced “sweet” tea is being replaced by spirited libations, including wine. “My wine buddies in New York and San Francisco, when they come home, they want Texas barbecue,” says June Rodil, MS, the wine and beverage director for a group of six Austin restaurants. “The full-dining scene is changing, and barbecue is becoming mainstream, so wine fits in…

Every family has its favorite goto dinners for busy weeknights. And whether it’s spaghetti and meatballs or a composed salad, every one of them can be a transcendent experience when paired with a wine that will make a crazy day feel like a distant memory. We asked prominent wine professionals how they would transform a basic American dinner into a world-class meal. GRILLED OR BROILED SALMON PAIRING: Gaia 2013 Wild Ferment Assyrtiko (Santorini) PRO: Daniel Beedle, wine director, Juni, New York City “My go-to wine for salmon would be Gaia Assyrtiko from the Aegean island of Santorini. [Its] Wild Ferment bottling spends 12 hours of contact with the grape skins, allowing for added richness and texture. Assyrtiko, which is naturally high in acidity, brings along with it fresh saline and…

CORBIÈRES 90 Château Ollieux Romanis 2014 Cuvée Classique Rosé ( Corbières ). This pale rosé is very expressive of its terroir, with beautiful aromas of garrigue herbs and minerality that abound in the bouquet. Additional hints of sweet pea and orange blossoftharmonize with the strawberry hull and melon rind fruitiness. Ethereal and dainty, the palate is light and bright, with vibrant acidity and a refreshing finish reminiscent of watermelon rind and orange pith. Drink now. Langdon Shiverick . — L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 17 87 Domaine Sainte-Eugénie 2014 Rosé ( Corbières ). This rosé, made from Cinsault and Syrah, offers assertive aromas of garrigue herbs— think rosemary and thyme—alongside fruity tones of minty cherry, strawberry and raspberry. The mouthfeel is light and fresh, with the mentholated character dominating the…

CARIGNANO DEL SULCIS 92 Sella & Mosca 2010 Terre Rare Riserva ( Carignano del Sulcis ). For full review see page 113. Best Buy. abv: 14% Price: $ 15 92 Cantina Santadi 2010 Terre Brune ( Carignano del Sulcis ). Made with very old, ungraM ed vines, this intense wine opens with aromas of toast, leather, espresso, ripe blackberry, spice and tobacco. The concentrated palate delivers ripe black cherry, dried plum, clove, leather and licorice alongside solid tannins and the warmth of alcohol. Empson USA Ltd . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 67 92 Mesa 2013 Buio ( Carignano del Sulcis). Scents of perfumed berry, eucalyptus, chopped herb and a whiI of leather unfold in the glass. The smooth, delicious palate doles out juicy black cherry, crushed raspberry, freshly…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 94 Cherubino 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ( Margaret River ). Of the three Cherubino 2010 Cabernets, I slightly preferred this one (the blended version), but just by a hair. The nose boasts seductive aromas of cedar, smoke, brown sugar and maple syrup, backed up on the palate by a convergence of chocolaty and meaty flavors that end in a softly dusty f nale. Full bodied and supple, it’s drinkable now, but should drink well through at least 2020. Middleton Family . Editors’ Choice. — J.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 54 93 Cherubino 2010 Cowaramup Cabernet Sauvignon ( Margaret River ). Cowaramup is a Margaret River subregion. A herbal note adds interest to the aromas, and some lifted red fruit sets this wine apart from Cherubino’s other 2010 Cabernets. Otherwise,…

CABERNET FRANC 90 The Infinite Monkey Theorem 2013 Cabernet Franc ( Grand Valley ). Concentrated cranberry and red currant aromas meet granite and dried herbs on the nose of this 100% Cabernet Franc. A round body of racy currant and blackberry meet a solid core of graphite, while G nely-grained tannins give support. This is a well-balanced showing from winemaker Ben Parsons. — A.P. abv: 13.8% Price: $ 25 87 Sutcliffe 2012 Cabernet Franc ( Colorado ). A cocktail of fresh strawberry, dried basil and thyme leads the aromas of this intriguing Cabernet Franc. While light in body and tannin, there’s an attractive roundness to a palate of juicy red berries and pink peppercorns. Drink now. — A.P. abv: 13.2% Price: $ 30 86 Creekside Cellars 2012 Franc Cabernet Franc…

WHO The country’s top tastemakers. WHERE NYC’s Highline Stages. WHAT This group of dynamic men and women changing the way Americans drink popped open bottles, had their photos snapped and chatted with Wine Enthusiast TV about HOW their innovation landed them on our 40 Under 40 list. Watch the video at winemag.com/tastemakers2015 and turn to page 43 for more on these stars. “Look at wine as more than just what’s inside the bottle.” —Ryan Arnold, Divisional Wine Director at Lettuce Entertain You “It doesn’t matter if you’re drinking a Moscato d’Asti or the most expensive Burgundy in the world, wine is fun and it should be accessible to everyone.” —Jessica Norris, Wine Director at Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steakhouse “I’m still the only producer on the planet not adding sweeteners.”…

THE MOMENT Tailgate Grilling THE BOTTLE Mitolo 2013 Jester Shiraz (McLaren Vale) Your alma mater may have started the season 0-4, but you still take tailgating seriously—and this hearty Shiraz is no joke. The smoky, meaty nose blends right into the char-grilled scents of the day, while the bold fruit flavors leave a lasting impression—like the indentation in the field left by your quarterback after he’s been sacked for the fifth time. —Joe Czerwinski THE MOMENT The First Snow Flurry THE BOTTLE Channing Daughters 2013 Mosaico (The Hamptons, Long Island) As temperatures drop and those familiar autumnal aromas of fallen leaves and wood smoke fill the air, you’ll be craving slow, simmered braises again. Whether you choose a root vegetable stew, chicken tagine or beef chili, this aromatic white blend’s…

Tucked away in northwest France, the apple-growing regions of Normandy and Brittany have been supplying the rest of that country with swiggable ciders for centuries. A far cry from the mass-produced sippers that have been exploding in popularity here in the U.S., these French cidres show remarkable depth, often brought about through the regions’ traditional method of fermentation. The process, called keeving, deprives the yeasts of proper nutrients, inhibiting the complete conversion of sugar to alcohol and yielding a slightly sweet, lowalcohol product. The area’s bittersweet apples are the key to this fermentation, providing the perfect tannin-to-acid balance. While most of these ciders offer a good amount of earthy funk, well-made offerings conjure memories of a fall jaunt through a U-pick orchard—dried hay, fragrant apples and even cinnamon-dusted donuts. With…

After the Rough Riders invaded the Cuban town of Daiquiri during the Spanish-American War, the local drink of rum, lime juice and sugar was taken to the U.S. and sold as a heat-beating cooler from the tropics. Fifty years later, Ernest Hemingway’s love of El Floridita’s blended version in Havana only solidified its one-season stigma. But now, bartenders are playing with flavors, spices and rum styles to make this tasty cocktail an all-year affair. SUMMER FROZEN HEMINGWAY DAIQUIRI Courtesy Nathan Dalton, bar director, Tiki Tolteca, New Orleans At Tiki Tolteca, these Daiquiris are pulled straight from the slushy machine, but Bar Director Nathan Dalton shares this singleserve variation. “Don’t get a brain freeze,” he says. 2 ounces light rum (like Old New Orleans Crystal Louisiana Rum) ½ ounce overproof rum…

Ben Parsons, 39 CEO/winemaker, The Inf nite Monkey Theorem Denver & Austin, Texas Eco-conscious urban winemaker Born in England, schooled in Australia and spreading roots in Denver and Austin, Parsons launched TIMT in 2008 to make wine more accessible and approachable. Using grapes sourced from Colorado and Texas, his line of high-end wines show that these regions are up-and-coming contenders in the wine world. Yet, it’s with his environmentally conscious canned wine, keg and wine-on-tap programs that Parsons is conquering the nation. Andrey Ivanov, 30 Partner/beverage director, Reeds American Table, St. Louis Midwestern mover and shaker Despite just hitting 30, Ivanov has launched wine programs at four restaurants, including the lauded Elaia & Olio and, currently, the hotly anticipated Reeds American Table, where he is a partner. Reeds boasts a…

Portuguese wine is impressively varied for such a small country. Styles range from the cool, fresh whites of the north to the big, bold reds of the south, with everything in between. The variety of wine styles produced is as vast as the country’s varied topography. From the lush, rainy north to the parched south, an astonishing range of grape varieties are grown, each perfectly suited to the diverse terrain. Over the centuries, regions have specialized in specif c varieties. Beginning in the north, in Vinho Verde, rich and floral Alvarinho makes the greatest wines, recently joined in quality by intensely fruity Loureiro. In the Douro, just to the south and east, Portugal’s national grape—the perfumed, rich and tannic Touriga Nacional—is blended with Tinta Roriz, Portugal’s version of Tempranillo, in…

BAROLO 99 Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio 2008 Cà d’Morissio Riserva ( Barolo ). This stunning wine is all about extreme elegance and subtlety. It opens with aromas of wild red berry, rose petal, sweet baking spice and a whiI aromatic herb while the focused palate delivers red cherry, crushed raspberry, licorice, pipe tobacco and white pepper. A firm backbone of polished tannins and vibrant acidity gives it an age-worthy structure. It’s loaded with G nesse and should develop even more complexity over time. Drink 2018–2033. Rare Wine Company . Cellar Selection. — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 595 96 Attilio Ghisolfi2011 Bricco Visette ( Barolo ). Scorched earth, ripe berry, underbrush, ground pepper, leather and a balsamic note are just some of the aromas you’ll G nd on this superb…

RIESLING TROCKEN 91 Kühling-Gillot 2012 Qvinterra Riesling Trocken ( Rheinhessen). Dusty pollen and mineral tones lend austerity and elegance to zesty orange peel and lemon flavors in this dry, bracing Riesling. While light bodied and spry, it’s surprisingly persistent on the finish. Ends on a delicate floral note. MS Walker . — A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 18 91 Matthias Müller 2012 S Bopparder Hamm Feuerlay Riesling Trocken ( Mittelrhein ). Opulent white blossoftand tropical fruit flavors abound in this superripe, concentrated Riesling. Dry in style, it’s plump and round in mouthfeel, yet reined in by bristling lime acidity and a rippling vein of minerality. It’s a powerful, composed and complex wine. Traubenhaus LLC . — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 29 90 Grans-Fassian 2013 Mineralschiefer Riesling Trocken ( Mosel…

CHARDONNAY 95 Sandhi 2013 Bentrock Chardonnay ( Sta. Rita Hills ). This is one of the most expensive white wines on the Central Coast, and it’s mighty good, with aromas of cheese rind, lime pith, slate and tiny bits of Marcona almond and oak smoke. It’s laser-focused on the chalky, mineral-laden palate, with poached apples in the midpalate and lemon peels and tangerine rinds throughout. — M.K. abv: 12% Price: $ 90 95 Sandhi 2013 Mt. Carmel Chardonnay ( Sta. Rita Hills ). Lime and apple blossoms, gray slate, wet chalk, a touch of struck match and an ever-so-slight lemon-butter element converge on a wondrous nose in this Rajat Parr-Sashi Moorman winner. Once sipped, the tight citrus hits G rst, but then come approachable white flowers, golden pears and a…

CABERNET FRANC 89 Stinson 2013 Cabernet Franc ( Monticello ). Medium ruby in color with a purple core, this wine exudes dark bramble berries on the nose, anise and sweet baking spices adding nuance. The round, silky palate is supported by supple tannins which carry the core of blackberry and cranberry notes. — A.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 24 88 Lovingston 2013 Josie’s Knoll Cabernet Franc ( Monticello ). Moss and wet earth aromas accent a dark, bramble berry core. The mediumbodied palate is supported by supple tannins and shows adequate concentration of cherry and blackberry tones, enlivened by a streak of granite. — A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 22 87 Pollak 2012 Reserve Cabernet Franc ( Monticello ). Dark bramble berry notes are focused on the nose, with sweet…

Fruit beers are of en polarizing—people either love them or hate them. Thankfully, there has been so much experimentation, from dif erent base-beer styles to real-fruit additives and varying aging techniques. Today’s selections offer something for most palates, running the gamut from nuanced to in-your-face fruitiness, and just about everything in between. As an overall style, fruit beers are loosely defined. It can be argued, however, that many of the best examples are those crafted from a sour beer base, offering balance and vibrancy to what could be an otherwise overly sweet or cloying fruit f avor. Some of the best fruit beers come from Belgium, where traditional lambics are king. Spontaneously fermented and blended with fresh fruits during secondary fermentation, these are some seriously fruit-driven beers that exhibit the…

IT ALL HAPPENED SO FAST. I’m living the dream. I’m in New York City and discovering a deep passion for all things wine. I work my way up through the ranks. And then, I’m the sommelier for two of the city’s top restaurants. Il Buco, recently named one of the eight most influential wine restaurants in New York City history. The other, The Lambs Club, run by celebrity Iron Chef Geoffrey Zakarian. I’m bringing A-list movie stars down to see the cellars, giving tableside lessons on Burgundy and lesser-known regions of Italy to music superstars and pairing wine to a tasting menu for Middle Eastern royalty. All the while tasting the best wine man has ever made. I have made it. This is my time and place. This is my…

AMERICAN CENTURY CELEBRITY GOLF CHAMPIONSHIP SOUTH LAKE TAHOE, NEVADA Celebs Charles Barkley, Aaron Rodgers, Ray Romano, John Elway, Jerry Rice and Jack Wagner putted for a good cause at the 26th annual starstudded sporting event at Edgewood Tahoe, sponsored by Korbel California Champagne. PARK CITY FOOD & WINE CLASSIC PARK CITY, UTAH One of the nation’s most popular wine-and-food fests, the five-day Classic drew more than 4,000 visitors to Utah to taste wines from Silver Oak, The Prisoner Wine Company, Pahlmeyer, Fisher Vineyards and David Arthur Vineyards. A portion of proceeds went to People’s Health Clinic.…

Perhaps the most extreme example of the trend is at Canon in Seattle, where a drink made with old booze sells for $1,100. Vintage glassware has its place, but would you drink an antique cocktail? A growing number of bartenders are getting their hands on old and rare booze, some dating back to the 1950s and earlier, and mixing them into pricey, limited-edition cocktails. “I don’t feel it’s sacrilegious,” says Travis Brown, bar director at New York City’s recently closed Alder, who stirred up drinks like a Martinez made with Plymouth Gin, Martini Rosso sweet vermouth and Stock Maraschino liqueur, all circa 1960s. “It was meant to be consumed, just like a vinyl record was made to be listened to.” It becomes about selling “a little bit of nostalgia.” One…

Being a Zinfandel grape in the middle of the Napa Valley must be a pretty lonely feeling. Like rockers Bruce Springsteen or Trent Reznor at the Academy Awards, they’ve earned the respect of people in the motion picture industry. But clearly, this isn’t their crowd. Zinfandel has a long history in Napa. That it of en exists in somewhat protected, historic vineyards may be one of the reasons it’s held on, if just barely, against the surrounding waves of Cabernet Sauvignon, the valley’s most important grape. The historic Zin vineyards of the Napa Valley, many of them dry-farmed, head-pruned f eld blends, continue to have their champions, namely producers willing to pay growers enough to keep them in the ground. Consumers also connect to them, smitten that a patch of…

CORTON-CHARLEMAGNE 95 Domaine Méo-Camuzet 2013 Corton-Charlemagne . This is a powerful, ripe wine, touched by its wood aging while having rich yellow fruits and a dense structure. Nervous tension comes from the acidity and the strongly mineral texture. It’s a magniG cent wine that needs aging, so drink from 2019. Kermit Lynch Wine Merchant . Cellar Selection. — R.V. abv: NA Price: $ 307 95 Louis Latour 2013 Corton-Charlemagne . For full review see page 103. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 140 93 Henri de Villamont 2013 Corton-Charlemagne . Round and ripe, this is a wine with generous, opulent fruits and touches of spice from wood aging. Plenty of yellow fruit and sliced apple flavors mingle with the mineral texture and fragrant acidity. With its power and richness still…

VERMENTINO DI GALLURA 93 Vigne Surrau 2014 Sciala Superiore ( Vermentino di Gallura ). For full review see page 106. abv: 14% Price: $ 23 90 Capichera 2014 Vign’Angena ( Vermentino di Gallura ). Honeysuckle, jasmine and orchard fruit aromas take center stage on this fresh, elegant wine. The savory palate delivers white peach, ripe apple, rosemary and a mouthwatering saline note. Fresh acidity brightens the finish. Lyra Wine . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 36 90 Jankara 2014 Superiore ( Vermentino di Gallura ). Aromas of tropical fruit, yellow peach and white almond mark the nose of this rich, structured white. The round, juicy palate delivers pineapple, tangy citrus, green apple and mineral. It’s nicely balanced, with moderate acidity and good length. Empson USA Ltd . — K.O.…

CHARDONNAY 90 Bodega Catena Zapata 2013 Catena Alta Historic Rows Chardonnay ( Mendoza ). A full blast of oak and related aromas open this creamy, ripe wine. Plump on the palate but with just enough acidity to preserve balance, this rich, friendly wine features walnut, papaya and citrus flavors that finish woody, smooth and long. Drink now. Winebow . — M.S. abv: 14% Price: $ 35 89 Bodega Catena Zapata 2012 White Bones Adrianna Chardonnay ( Mendoza ). Barrelrelated aromas of caramel, popcorn and baked pear dominate the nose, while the palate brings notes of citrus zest, with lively minerality and cutting acidity. This chiseled Chardonnay tastes like tart nectarine, green apple and lime, while the finish is tight as a drum. Drink through 2022. Winebow . — M.S. abv:…

RIESLING 95 Trisaetum 2014 Wichmann Dundee Estate Riesling ( Dundee Hills). Details of tea leaf, peach skin and pear introduce a wine with tremendous texture and length. The oI -dry sweetness is counterbalanced by tart acidity, creating perfect tension and continuing into a lingering, satisfying G nish. As with all these young wines, this will improve dramatically with ample aeration. Editors’ Choice. — P.G. abv: 11.5% Price: $ 28 94 Harper Voit 2014 Maresh Vineyard Old Vine Riesling ( Dundee Hills ). Sourced from the vineyard’s original 1970 planting, this is a succulent, dense, captivating wine. Scents of pollen, honey, tea and apricot lead into a mouthful of similar flavors. The tastes of apricot jam show tremendous concentration and length. It’s a gorgeous eI ort that should continue to age…

For most people, the word “brandy” conjures up images of Cognac. While we’re fans of France’s famous aged grape spirit, and its cousins Armagnac and apple-based Calvados too, the brandy world is far larger than just these pours. So we put out a call for fruit brandies— deliberately excluding those made from grapes and apples— in an ef ort to f ing that brandy door open as wide as possible. As expected, plenty of wonderful surprises emerged, including a mouthwatering Williams Pear Brandy that could hold its own on the dessert table next to any Cognac bottling, and a digestif-worthy, palate-cleansing Kirsch (cherry eau-de-vie) that actually evokes cherries— a far cry from cherry-f avored spirits that bear little resemblance to fruit. Since many fruit brandies skew traditional, hailing from the…