Innholdsfortegnelse for September 2015 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Having recently returned from the food mecca of San Sebastián, Spain, I’ve enjoyed bringing the experience of those pintxos (small plates) bars to my own gatherings at home. I love the exploration that goes on in a tapas setting, and I feel strongly that that’s how wine and food lovers are tasting today. Have you ever gone to a restaurant and ordered more appetizers than entrées? That trend in food experimentation has truly influenced the adventurous approach we now see in wine. All of those diverse flavors and tastes, paired with a mixed table of equally diverse wines…nothing could be better. This is a perfect way to play with pairing and indulge your passion for wine and food. It’s also a fun and collaborative way to entertain. I love the…

AMERICA’S 100 BEST WINE RESTAURANTS PARTY NEW YORK CITY Wine Enthusiast fêted 100 celebrated restaurants with wines from Opici Wines and cocktails made with spirits from William Grant & Sons at Brooklyn’s Wythe Hotel. The event opened with a panel including somms Jeff Porter of Bastianich & Batali Restaurant Group and Lee Campbell of Reynard, Diner, Marlow & Sons, Roman’s and Achilles Heel, plus Chef Ryan Hardy of Charlie Bird. CANNES INTERNATIONAL FILM FESTIVAL CANNES, FRANCE Mouton Cadet of Baron Philippe de Rothschild hosted its fifth annual rooftop wine party at the Palais de Festivals during the film festival’s 68th year on the French Riviera, attended by Eva Longoria, Joel and Ethan Coen, Sienna Miller and Jake Gyllenhaal. SOUTHWEST WINES OF FRANCE GOURMET FRENCH FRIES COMPETITION NEW YORK CITY Fries…

Beyond love-it-or-hate-it Beaujolais Nouveau—which isn’t released until late November—the wine-drinking world can only pour promises (and prayers) during fall harvest. But a growing number of brewers are forgoing traditional techniques and making drink-now delights from this year’s bounty. Mid-August through early September is harvest season for hops, the flowering cones that provide beer with bitterness, aroma and flavor. Farmers rush to reap the fat, resinous flowers, drying them for use throughout the year. These beer buds must be dried quickly because they typically lose potency within a day of being plucked. But preserving them comes at a price. “They may last longer, but drying drives of a significant amount of the most fragrant oils,” says Victory Brewmaster Bill Covaleski. To capture these aromas, Covaleski and others are adding fresh hops…

THE PRIETONI 1¼ ounces La Venenosa Raicilla 1 ounce Campari 1 ounce sweet vermouth Strip of orange peel, for garnish In a mixing glass, combine all liquid ingredients with ice. Stir well, and strain into a chilled coupe glass. Garnish with orange peel. WHAT IS RAICILLA? Relatively new to the U.S., raicilla (pronounced rye-SEE-ya) is an agave-based spirit from Jalisco, the birthplace of Tequila. Sometimes called “Mexican moons hine,” the earthy, herbal flavors hover somewhere between Tequila and mezcal. —Kara Newman…

Ntsiki Biyela had never tasted wine when she was awarded a college scholarship to study winemaking. Now, she’s a winemaker at Stellekaya, a boutique winery in Stellenbosch—where her very first red blend took the gold at the country’s prestigious Michelangelo Awards in 2009. How did you discover wine? I grew up northeast of [the wine-growing region] Western Cape, in a village there called Mahlabathini. I grew up and went to high school there. We did not have wine there. When I finished high school, I was recruited to apply for a winemaking scholarship. Winemaking was chosen for me. I had the opportunity to change it a year later, but by then I knew I did not want to. Wine is an ever-changing concept, and that’s what fascinates me about it.…

CAPE TOWN, SOUTH AFRICA Cosmopolitan, innovative Cape Town is a city always on the move. Tapas bars, casual bistros and fine dining are bolstered by myriad craft beers, spirits and fine wines to create an ever-changing world of drinks and dishes embraced within the heart of the mother city. Each visit is as exciting as the first. Aubergine Original gourmet dishes are complemented by an internationally awarded wine list offering great breadth and depth. Knowledgeable sommeliers ensure a memorable wine-and-dine experience. Belthazar Up-market steakhouse, where properly aged beef and more is matched by an extensive list that offers more than 200 wines by the glass. Bascule Whisky, Wine & Cocktail Bar Some 500 whiskies from around the world are available at this waterside venue, while the wine list features the…

MEXICO CITY, MEXICO Though Mexico is home to the oldest winery in the Americas—Casa Madero, founded in 1597 as La Hacienda de San Lorenzo—and Baja wines are increasingly making waves, Mexico City is no wine mecca. But with its dining scene at a peak, a throng of traditional tipples and the economy on the uptick, there’s no better time to go. Au Pied de Cochon This luxe restaurant modeled aft er the 1940s Parisian institution has Mexico City’s best wine list, including back vintages of many Mexican and South American producers. It’s open 24/7, providing unparalleled people watching. La Clandestina Both here and at its sister bar, El Palenquito, Karla Moles (who also owns the mezcal brand Milagrito) uses garrafones (water jugs) to sell backyard mezcals, mostly from Oaxaca. Their…

GRÜNER VELTLINER 93 Eichinger 2014 Wechselberg Grüner Veltliner ( Kamptal ). Apart from fresh citrus peel and yeasty savoriness, this Grüner delivers a full herbal repertoire of chervil and rocket, watercress and lemon balm. The spine is of lemony acidity, painting a picture of thrilling, concentrated freshness, interspersed with peppery layers of interest and a nearly endless herbal finish. Weygandt-Metzler . — A.K. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 19 93 Nikolaihof 2014 Hefeabzug Grüner Veltliner ( Wachau ). Funky notes of yeast still dominate the nose, but there is an abundance of yellow, juicy pear and Russet apple once they blow off , framed by citrus freshness and underlined with a yeasty savoriness that recalls slightly pungent herbs like watercress and arugula. The finish is ultraclean. Skurnik Wines, Inc . —…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 94 Emilio Moro 2011 Malleolus ( Ribera del Duero ). This pure, bullish, smoky Tinto Fino is full of charred blackberry, cassis and licorice aromas. The palate is massive but superbly balanced. Flavors of mocha, black coffee, bitter chocolate, toast, blackberry and cassis finish with power and precision. Drink 2017–2025. Skurnik Wines, Inc . Editors’ Choice . — M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 49 94 Resalte 2009 Gran Resalte ( Ribera del Duero ). Rooty aromas of blackberry and baked plum share space on the bouquet with vanilla, smoke and coconut scents. This feels lush, round, firm and tannic, with profound depth. Flavors of blackberry, baking spices, chocolate and pepper finish toasty, with massive black-fruit left overs. This is a powerful specimen to drink 2017–2030. RM Distributors…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 91 Nautilus 2014 Sauvignon Blanc ( Marlborough). This is a tight, crisp rendering of Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. Struck flint aromas add nuance, while the bright lemon-lime flavors whirl together into a citrus sorbet of refreshment. Negociants USA, Inc . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 13% Price: $ 19 91 Omaka Springs 2014 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc ( Marlborough). For full review see page 73. Editors’ Choice . abv: 12.5% Price: $ 20 90 Craggy Range 2014 Te Muna Road Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ( Martinborough). Craggy’s style of Sauvignon Blanc has always favored texture over flamboyant aromatics, but the 2014 offers subtle notes of tomato stalk layered over citrus fruit. Grapefruit predominates, but there’s a hint of stone fruit and the hallmark Craggy creaminess to the wine’s texture.…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 90 Channing Daughters 2014 Mudd Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ( Long Island). An intoxicating whiff of musky floral perfume persists throughout this bright, full-bodied Sauvignon Blanc. Gooseberry and white grapefruit flavors are tart and crisp, gaining plushness through the addition of Chardonnay in the blend. Elegant and substantial in mouth feel, it finishes long. — A.I. abv: 13% Price: $ 20 90 Paumanok 2014 Sauvignon Blanc ( North Fork of Long Island ). This bright, citrusy Sauvignon Blanc is full of mouthwatering grapefruit and lemon flavors. It’s delicately framed, yet cutting and spry with a mineral-tinged backbone that begs for pairing with oysters and other briny seafood. — A.I. abv: 12% Price: $ 24 90 Raphael 2014 First Label Sauvignon Blanc ( North Fork of Long Island ). Bristling…

Although celebrated for its world-class wineries and breathtaking beaches, the heart of Long Island’s East End lies in its deep agricultural and fishing traditions. Alongside rustic potato farms and cabbage patches, visitors will find the finest handcrafted cheeses, pickles, soaps, craft beers, spirits and more. Providing a surprising juxtaposition to the bustling city lights of Manhattan a few hours away, the East End of Long Island is a farm-to-table paradise just waiting to be discovered. Check dates and hours before visiting; most of these businesses are open late spring through fall. 1 Long Island Spirits Craft Distillery: While the locavore movement has captivated the New York culinary scene, many still haven’t caught on to the bevy of opportunities to drink local as well. Long Island Spirits, founded in 2007, is…

New York City is one of the world’s greatest wineand-food metropolises. At the same time, it’s also rooted in regional farming traditions, with a fine-dining scene deeply committed to locavorism. As quality winemaking throughout New York has taken off, Manhattan sommeliers have taken note. Today, many of the city’s best restaurants aren’t just about eating local, but drinking local, too. Juliette Pope Gramercy Tavern For almost 20 years, Gramercy Tavern, one of New York City’s hallmark dining establishments, has offered a gustatory vignette of New York’s agricultural traditions. As part of the restaurant’s devotion to locally sourced, sustainable produce, New York wines have always featured prominently on the menu. “It’s in our backyard,” says Juliette Pope, the wine director, describing regions like the Finger Lakes, Long Island and the Hudson…

Traditionally, ice wine—like nectar of the arctic gods—can be made only in the world’s coolest wine regions. With consistently bitter, icy winters, the Finger Lakes are one of the few places where traditional ice wines can be produced annually. Grapes used range from vinifera like Riesling, Chardonnay, Gewürztraminer and Cabernet Franc to hybrid varieties like Vidal Blanc, Vignoles and Chambourcin. There are roughly 20 producers in the Finger Lakes of traditional ice wine, as well as the more technology-reliant “iced” wines (made from grapes frozen after harvest). This diversity guarantees an ice or ice-style wine for every preference, and at every price point. Some producers, like Lakewood Vineyards, make ice wines both ways. Others, like Casa Larga, Sheldrake Point, Glenora, Knapp and Wagner, make them only in the traditional way.…

In the second category belong contributions from Cornell University’s College of Agriculture and Life Sciences and its graduates. With one of the world’s top viticulture and enology programs, the school earns acclaim for its expertise with cool-climate growing conditions. “In New York, we have every challenge known to grape-growing and winemaking, of en on the same day,” says Gavin Sacks, associate professor of enology in the school’s Department of Food Science. Big successes include the Cornell hybrids, cold-hardy grapes developed by the university’s New York State Agricultural Experiment Station (NYSAES). The only Ivy League school with an enology and viticulture program, Cornell has deep agrarian roots. It was founded in 1865 as a land-grant university with the double mission of both teaching “branches of learning as are related to agriculture…

The secret of success in these northerly latitudes where temperatures in winter can drop down to minus-40°F: the “Minnesota Varieties,” Survivor-tough grapes that produce top wines in chilly climes from Maine to North Dakota. Named for the numerous islands that dot the northeastern end of Lake Ontario and the western St. Lawrence River, the Thousand Islands region pulls visitors from both sides of the U.S.-Canadian border. In addition to on-the-water recreation, attractions include forts, lighthouses and fantastical structures like Boldt Castle, a turreted island manse built by early 20th-century hotel magnate George C. Boldt. Located along the river in historic Clayton, Coyote Moon Vineyards is one of the state’s most award-winning wineries. The Randazzo family carefully craft s 20 wines, everything from dry Merlot made from New York grapes to…

Long Island Bedell Cellars bedellcellars.com 631-734-7537 Bedell Cellars is a pioneering, family-owned winery on Long Island dedicated to quality and creativity in everything we do. We have handcrafted our wines in small batches for 34 years using sustainable methods that define the regional style. Bouquet bouquetwine.com 877-877-0527 Award-winning wines and cool accessories for dining, picnics, gifts and storage! Harmony Vineyards harmonyvineyards.com 631-291-9900 Let our historic waterfront tasting room, located on Stony Brook Harbor—just one hour from Manhattan, introduce you to our Bordeaux-style red blends and Chablis-style Chardonnays. Gourmet small plates menu and local beers served. We always have live music! Jamesport Vineyards jamesportwines.com 631-722-5256 Jamesport Vineyards is a father-son collaboration that began in 1981, making it one of the North Fork’s oldest vineyards. With vines planted on 60 acres,…

europeanwinetreasures.com/en/ www.facebook.com/europeanwinetreasures Think about it, meatballs feature prominently in many cuisines and cultures in the world. In the US alone, we have Italian Spaghetti and Meatballs, Swedish Meatballs, Greek Keftedes, and Turkish Kofta, which can be made from a single meat or a combination of beef, pork, lamb, and veal depending on their origin. Why not expand your culinary skills and wine knowledge by making some Bulgarian Kyute, but let’s break withtradition a bit and serve them with a delectable sauce made from Mavrud wine, one of Bulgaria’s indigenous red grapes. We’ll start with a basic Bulgarian meatball recipe and modify the sauce to showcase the versatility of Bulgarian wines. It will be a perfect pairing with a rich, fruit-forward, sensual, and elegant Mavrud produced in Bulgaria’s Thracian Valley. It’s…

This Rosh Hashanah, pay homage to the 5,776-year-old culture responsible for some of the greatest comfort foods ever. There’s the bagel and lox, braised brisket and the ever-versatile (and often unsung) kugel, like this sweet-and-savory version from Shaya restaurant in New Orleans. PAIR IT Opt for an opulent Israeli white wine, like Kishor’s 2013 white blend, made with Viognier and Sauvignon Blanc from Western Galilee. “The Viognier is weighty enough to stand up to the kugel’s decadence, yet [the wine] keeps a spine of acid from the quirky addition of Sauvignon Blanc,” says Peggy Keplinger, Shaya’s beverage manager. KUGEL WITH FIG CUSTARD ½ cup salt 1 pound dried pasta shells 24 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature 3 cups whole milk 8 eggs 1. tablespoons salt ½ cup sugar Zest…

Sooner or later, it happens to all of us: The Sauvignon Blanc or rosé we bought by the case to enjoy over the summer starts to lose its luster. What once was so refreshing begins to seem one-dimensional and—though we hate to admit it when we still have a few bottles left —boring. And while we can see the light of cool weather ahead in the reflection of summer’s last zucchini and tomatoes, it’s still too warm to pull the big Cabernets or Châteauneufs from their safe spots in the cellar. Fortunately, there are a number of red wines that thrive served with a slight chill—and make a welcome respite from the parade of summertime whites and rosés. Reach for reds high in acid, the same thirstquenching element that brightens…

MARGAUX 94 Château Rauzan-Ségla 2012 Margaux . This firmly structured, beautifully crafted wine has a solid backdrop of tannins and plenty of concentration. Beyond that, it is already well balanced, bringing together its dark texture and blackberry fruit flavors with generous acidity. It needs to age, drink from 2020. Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: NA Price: $ NA 93 Château Lascombes 2012 Margaux . This vintage of Lascombes shows more restraint on oak than previous vintages. The result is a ripe wine, still showing some wood flavors although it is already beginning to balance these with the black fruits. It has an opulent style that is warm and generous. Drink from 2019. Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: NA Price: $ NA 92 Château Marquis de Terme 2012 Margaux…

CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 95 San Felice 2011 Il Grigio Gran Selezione ( Chianti Classico ). For full review see page 69. abv: 15% Price: $ 44 94 Castelli del Grevepesa 2011 Lamole Gran Selezione ( Chianti Classico ). Made entirely with Sangiovese, this offers lovely aromas of iris, fresh violet, perfumed berry and a whiff of sweet baking spice. The elegantly structured palate doles out juicy black cherry, crushed raspberry, mocha, white pepper and cinnamon while firm, velvety tannins offer support. It closes on a tobacco note. It’s already delicious but hold for complexity. Drink 2016–2021. Votto Vines Importing . Cellar Selection . — K.O. abv: 14% Price: $ 45 94 Castelli del Grevepesa 2011 Panzano Gran Selezione ( Chianti Classico ). Made entirely with Sangiovese, this offers aromas…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 95 Portfolio 2011 Limited Edition Red ( Napa Valley ). This is a tiny-production blend of 82% Cabernet Sauvignon and 18% Cabernet Franc, the latter sourced from Detert East Vineyard along the Oakville bench, the former from Hendry Ranch in western Napa. Made by Genevieve Janssens, it has an old-world soul with plenty of California complexity, balanced in woody notes of coconut flake and black cherry, the tannins are fine-grained and integrated. A simply gorgeous wine. Editors’ Choice . — V.B. abv: 15% Price: $ 140 94 Mithra 2012 Cabernet Sauvignon ( Mount Veeder ). For full review see page 70. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.2% Price: $ 190 94 Sojourn 2012 Proprietary Cuvée Cabernet Sauvignon ( Napa Valley). A 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from a number of hillside…

Single estate. Single vintage. Barrel aged. No, we’re not talking about wine—this is the language used to describe two exciting spirits from South America: cachaça and pisco. Since pisco is a grape-based brandy, perhaps it should be unsurprising that it draws comparison to wine. Aft er all, like wine or grappa, the character changes vastly depending on the grapes from which it is made. A particularly pleasant surprise in this month’s reviews: two new Distiller’s Reserve piscos from Campo de Encanto, each made with grapes harvested from a single vineyard. Compared side by side, the differences were striking: one fruity and vibrant, the other floral and delicate. Meanwhile, rum-like cachaça, distilled from sugar cane, doesn’t usually bring wine-making techniques to mind. But perhaps that’s likely to change. For example, a…

President, New York Wine & Grape Foundation The New York wine industry is experiencing an exciting renaissance that I invite you to discover. New York State has America’s oldest winery, dating back 175 years, and many of the newest, including more than 140 just since 2011. There are now over 400 wineries in 59 of New York’s 62 counties, from Long Island to Niagara and Lake Erie, from the Thousand Islands to the Finger Lakes, Hudson Valley and even New York City! No matter where you are in New York State, you’re near a winery—or many. Each region is unique in geography, wine types and styles. “Wine trails” in every region make it simple to visit several wineries in a day or weekend. Wineries and tasting rooms also host special…

What’s in a wine grape hybrid? You’ve probably seen some of their names—Baco Noir, Seyval Blanc, Vidal Blanc, Chambourcin, Vignoles. They sound distinctly French, but are they? Yes and no. Hybrid grapevines have been created to resist the pests and problems that nearly decimated vineyards in Europe in the 19th century and that also flourish in occasionally calamitous climates in the Catskill region. Hybrids deliver the best of all worlds: versatile grapes that can be made in a range of styles (and sometimes are dead-ringers for their European cousins), but can hang tough when the season or reason calls for it. Wine grape hybrids come from a cross between noble but temperamental European Vitis vinifera varieties and hardy, less tasty vines native to North America. More than just robust, hybrids…

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BLANC CHECK Most whites should be sipped at significantly cooler temps than reds. So if your weekly wines are a wave of both reds and whites, you’re overdue. RED HEAD If the only white wines in your world come in the form of chicken francaise, then you’re really missing out on a lot of incredible pours. Your narrow winededness, however, does have a bonus: The often less costly single-zone fridges are designed for reds (and short-term aging) and keep your cache between 54 and 65˚F. GOAL, KEEP If you’re cellaring most of your bottles beyond a year, you really only need to know one number— 55˚F—the ideal aging temperature for almost every wine style. Overkill. POP STAR Champagne and sparkling wines are not created equal. The grapes, the price and…

Is California Merlot back? Well, sort of. There may not be as much of it as there once was, before consumer backlash and the Pinot Noir renaissance took hold. But what’s left is better than ever—and can be truly exceptional. “We all know what happened to the variety,” says Pierre Noique, vice president of luxury wines at Constellation Brands, which owns Robert Mondavi Winery and Franciscan Estate, among others, in the Napa Valley. “In speaking with restaurateurs around the country, Merlot is in a bit of a unique situation,” he says. “It was one of the hottest varieties before 2004, then it came to a screeching halt and the Merlot crisis eliminated all the producers who weren’t serious, and only the high-quality, truly committed remained. A lot had jumped on…

LIMA, PERU The pisco sour, Peru’s national drink, is said to have been invented in Lima about a century ago by an American expat barkeep. The classic is made with pisco (a grape brandy), citrus, syrup, a bit of bitters and egg-white froth. Mixologists in Lima, the coastal capital, have tinkered with versions ever since. In addition, locals drink wines imported from Argentina and Chile, both of which also claim the pisco sour as their national mixed drinks. Gran Hotel Bolivar The bar of this opulent hotel in the heart of historic Lima popularized the pisco sour—it was once the place where local and international socialites gathered to see and be seen. Astrid & Gastón Housed in the elegant Casa Moreyra in the San Isidro district, Astrid & Gastón is…

MELBOURNE, AUSTRALIA If it’s true that a city gets the dining culture it deserves, Melbourne’s wine drinkers have been very well behaved. The rise of the enoteca-style outfit—part wine shop, part restaurant, part wine bar—means it’s a great time to discover the best artisan, classic and iconic offerings from Australia and beyond. Siglo Rooftop views of Melbourne’s grand end of town and an extensive European wine list make this the best slice of the Old World in the New World. Geralds Bar A cozy bar loved by locals, Geralds pours Australian wine heroes and curious internationals. The first customer gets to choose the night’s by-the-glass option. Gertrude Street Enoteca Melbourne’s top take on the Italian enoteca, it’s a welcome nook in an area with a definite vibe to it. An…

Most of the intake for this month’s Austrian slot are non-single vineyard whites wines from 2014, a vintage that was panned by some commentators while winemakers were still picking grapes last fall. While there was a lot of rain and therefore rot, those who sorted and selected carefully and put in all the hours now present a range of squeaky-clean wines that defy the doomsayers. The wines deliver authenticity and originality— true to land and vintage. Grüner Veltliner offers taut, bright and focused whites and conforms once again to its delicious varietal hallmark of herbal pepperiness—something that tends to get lost in riper vintages. Cooler seasons bear out this intriguing facet unequalled in other whites. Rieslings have even more citric thrill than is customary. That dollop of extra acidity from…

TAVEL 92 Domaine Maby 2014 Prima Donna Rosé (Tavel ). This complex rosé effortlessly combines hints of flowers, dried spices, garrigue and red berries. It’s full-bodied yet paradoxically weightless, buoyed by a long finish of crushed stone and fresh lime juice. Drink it over the next few years. Vintage Imports, Inc . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 18 91 Chateau d’Aqueria 2014 Rosé (Tavel). Fullbodied, rich and slightly warm, this assertive Tavel boasts notes of raspberry, peach and melon. It’s a bold, fruit-driven style that brightens on the finish, where crisp acids and a chalky feel add texture. Kobrand . Editors’ Choice . — J.C. abv: 14% Price: $ 20 90 Alain Jaume et Fils 2014 Le Crétacé Rosé ( Tavel ). In its weight and…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 94 Recanati 2011 Reserve David Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon ( Galilee). For full review see page 70. Kosher. Cellar Selection . abv: 14% Price: $ 25 93 Golan Heights Winery 2011 Yarden Cabernet Sauvignon ( Galilee). Violet-red in the glass, this wine has a nose of blackberries and gingerbread spice. It is well balanced, with equal amounts of velvety tannins and refreshing brightness cavorting on the palate. Pronounced flavors of blackberry, aniseed, smoke, flint and thyme are accentuated by notes of mint tea. Kosher. Yarden Wines, Inc . Cellar Selection . — M.D. abv: 15% Price: $ 33 92 Dalton 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon ( Galilee ). For full review see page 72. Kosher. abv: 14% Price: $ 32 92 Jerusalem Wineries 2013 3400 Premium Cabernet Sauvignon ( Judean…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 91 Alleromb 2012 La Reyna Blanca Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ( Columbia Valley). Made in a full-bodied style, this wine possesses aromas and flavors of nut oil, lemongrass, citrus and herbs, with a rich texture and a finish that lingers. — S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $ 42 90 Novelty Hill 2013 Stillwater Creek Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc ( Columbia Valley). Barrel fermented in new and used French oak and aged sur lie for seven months, this appealing wine brings aromas of pear, spice, fig and papaya. The Sémillon blended in (16%) adds to the palate’s richness and weight, with the pleasingly long finish contributing to the enjoyment. — S.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 20 89 Januik 2013 Sagemoor Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc ( Columbia Valley). This wine is more a Bordeaux…

As emerging as the category of cider is in the beverage world, there still manages to be an astounding number of styles— sparkling, still, dry and sweet hardly scratch the surface. With American traditions hailing back to the colonial era, and European roots even further, it’s no surprise that each region has its own way of doing things using its own regional apples, resulting in distinctly different offerings. This month’s focus is a rather broad category in the cider world: dry unoaked American selections. Even within these constraints, there is still an array of styles—ranging from earthy French-influenced pours to vibrant, pristine, fruit-driven ciders. The common thread that holds this lot together is the type of apples used. These are not your typical grocery store finds—they are heirloom varieties that…

“I learned to cook from my Sicilian grandfather,” says Josephine Proul, chef/owner of Local 111 in Philmont. The Hudson Valley’s preciously limited growing season makes her appreciate the products that flourish around her and use them to best effect. Instead of farm-to-table, she describes her cuisine as “community-to-table,” since she sources 85% of her ingredients within miles of her restaurant’s door. “We take out the pretension out of it,” she says of her New England- and American-skewed menu, which changes each month. “I think it’s approachable for everyone.” Grilled Lamb Burger with Mint-Parsley Pesto, Cured Cabbage and Feta Sour Cream For burgers: 3 pounds ground lamb 5 cloves garlic, chopped 2 tablespoons fresh oregano, chopped ¼ cup dry red wine Salt and pepper to taste 6 buns Mix by hand…

Lavish with fruit and perfume, yet fierce with acidity and steely edges, Riesling is one of the great noble white wines of the Old World. While rooted in Germany, its migration through both the Old World and New World has produced a rainbow of expressions worldwide. In the United States, the Finger Lakes region is setting a new framework for world-class Riesling. Unexpected success Riesling and other classic Vitis vinifera grapes (like Chardonnay, Cabernet Franc, Pinot Noir and more) reign supreme in the region today. However, just a few generations ago, people thought vinifera grapes could not survive in the Finger Lakes. In 1951, when Dr. Konstantin Frank, a viticulturist from the Ukraine, arrived in the U.S., only hybrid and native American grapes were grown commercially in the region. Conventional…

The oldest and largest Concord grape-growing region in the world lies along the southeastern shores of Lake Erie in western New York and northwestern Pennsylvania. Its traditions, along with the passage of new winery laws in the 1970s and ’80s, afforded growers the opportunity to make small batches of wine. New and different wine grapes were planted, and a new wine industry emerged. This blend of old and new is reflected in the story of Johnson Estate Winery. Although the Johnson family had grown grapes on the property since the early 20th century, their eponymous winery was not founded until 1961, making it the oldest estate winery in New York State. Today 115 acres of vineyards—some more than 70 years old—overlook panoramic views of Lake Erie. Winemaker Jeff Murphy craft…