Innholdsfortegnelse for August/September 2025 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Something is growing in Italy. A new wave of winemakers is taking control of the narrative and giving the next evolution of Italian wine a fresh face. Usually, when we think about a younger generation’s perspective on an art form, we assume it will be more modern, dismissive of tradition and different for the sake of being different. But that’s not what’s happening here—and it is thrilling. On my recent trip to the annual Vinitaly conference in Verona, I encountered a captivating group of visionaries. Arianna Occhipinti’s windswept Sicilian vineyards seem to lend her an electric energy that fills every room she enters. Her wines aren’t traditional in the modern sense, yet they feel deeply rooted in a time before intervention and innovation. They speak to an era when the…

IT’S HARD TO IMAGINE MEDITERRANEAN CUISINES WITHOUT THE ASSERTIVE TRIO of tomatoes, anchovies and capers. Shapeshifters at heart, they can take center stage as soloists or recede into the background as fundamental bass notes. They’re an example of where simplicity—the hallmark of Italian cooking—requires confidence and superlative ingredients. The best part? They can live in your pantry full time, keeping quick, personality-filled dishes at your nonna’s fingertips (she wants you out of the kitchen). All three have a reputation for being difficult to pair with wine, but that’s una sciocchezza—nonsense. There’s an Italian wine for every ingredient and every dish. TOMATOES A tannic wine can feel harsh with both fresh and cooked tomato sauces: Acid and tannins can clash, and tomato sauces usually lack the fat or protein to soften tannins.…

I was recently in the Southern Rhône tasting through a lineup of wines from Rasteau, a region known for producing bold reds with a rustic edge brimming with jammy fruit and earth. About halfway through the flight of 60 wines, several of them stopped me in my tracks. They were so strikingly elegant that I had to retaste them. They evoked ripe dark fruit, pink grapefruit rind and ethereal violet-thyme perfume with a persistent mineral nuance while maintaining a silky texture. My eyes lit up as if I hit the jackpot. These expressions were a total departure from what one typically thinks of Rasteau. They demonstrated tension and graceful force, yet with finesse. As I started to explain why I was so surprised, someone offered a familiar shortcut: “Ah, yes,…

RED WINES BAROLO 99 Giovanni Rosso 2021 Vignarionda Ester Canale Rosso (Barolo). Some wines are born of soil and sun, others of history and heart. When these precious 0.85 hectares returned to Ester Canale’s family in 2011, it wasn’t just land coming home, but destiny fulfilled. From these hallowed slopes of Serralunga, blackberry and Damson plum weave through waves of mixed spice incense and sweet baking notes in a mesmerizing symphony. The wine moves with such ethereal grace, it nearly brings tears to the eyes. This profound beauty, from vines planted in 1946, doesn’t just demand attention but commands silence, contemplation and ultimately surrender to its sublime elegance. A masterpiece that reminds us why Vignarionda stands among Barolo’s greatest sites. Giovanni Rosso Az. Agricola. Editor’s Choice. —J.P. abv: 14% Price: $400…

RED WINES VINO NOBILE DI MONTEPULCIANO 95 Boscarelli 2021 Riserva (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). The nose is balanced between wild cherries, raspberries and violets on one hand and potting soil, licorice and fresh-cracked black pepper on the other. The palate brings more of everything, as the cherries, berries, flowers and earth all drift along a stream of chocolate ganache. Acid bubbles around solid, dense tannins. Boscarelli. —D.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 94 Boscarelli 2021 Costa Grande (Vino Nobile di Montepulciano). The nose is both floral and saline, with aromas of roses, violets, peonies, mixed tart berries, top soil and wild fennel. The palate is laden with juicy, fresh plums and blackberries, even as the earth tones and herbs punch through and tannins cling. Boscarelli. —D.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $NA 90 Cecchi 2019…

WHITE WINES 93 Antichi Poderi Jerzu 2021 Josto Miglior Riserva (Vermentino di Sardegna). Plums, black cherries, figs, top soil, gun flint on the nose perfectly foreshadow a palate that is simultaneously earthy with herbs and more soil, and dense with dark but still snappy fruit. The finish brings notes of dark chocolate and espresso, as well as a lingering heat. Vias Imports. —D.C. abv: 14% Price: $NA 91 Antichi Poderi Jerzu 2023 Lucean le Stelle (Vermentino di Sardegna). The nose drips with citrus aromas of lemon, lime, grapefruit, green and yellow apple, tulips and abundant salt, but also has depth and seriousness. On the palate, dried pineapple, lemon slices, lemon curd and more apples create a slick, rich feel that carries through a long finish. Vias Imports. —D.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA…

RED WINES CROZES-HERMITAGE 96 Domaine Verzier 2022 Vagabonde (Crozes Hermitage). Plush and focused, this wine opens with deep red cherry and licorice, accented by violet, smoked meat and granitic minerality. A complex palate, lively acidity balances a serious blend of black currant, olive, charcuterie, black tea, terracotta and rose. Layered and evolving, it is full of intrigue and energy. This is one to watch, so cellar several bottles for its unfolding journey. Domaine Verzier. Editor’s Choice. —A.C.C. abv: 12.5% Price: $31 94 Domaine Les Hauts de Mercurol 2022 (Crozes-Hermitage). From 30 - to 50-year-old vines in the village of Mercurol, this wine unveils a complex nose—deep floral notes intertwine with olive, saffron and roasted earth, creating an alluring bouquet. The palate is lifted, with a white-pepper overtone enhancing layers of plum and…

When NYC’s Rosevale Cocktail Room opened in 2022, Alec Kass wanted to organize the 150+ vermouths on the list by their botanicals. “The bittering agents, the citrus, the florals, the spices—those are the things that drive the flavor,” says Kass, beverage director for Carver Road Hospitality, which owns Rosevale. Ultimately, he opted for a more traditional taxonomy, grouping them by color (red, white, amber) and style (dry, bianco, sweet). While this is more intuitive for guests to navigate, he likens it to “grouping animals by the color of their fur instead of their DNA.” Vermouth remains a key component of many cocktails, from martinis to negronis, but you’ll rarely see a full accounting of the ingredients that go into the bottle. Most vermouth-makers are super-secretive about their botanical blends, teasing…

Showcasing three of Italy’s best-loved bevvies—amaro, espresso and prosecco—this drink hails from Good Guy’s, a Mediterranean-inspired wine and aperitivo bar from the team behind Attaboy in NYC. “This is an alcoholic version of a drink we developed for our Australian café, Hearts,” co-owner Sam Ross explains. “That version replaces our house blend of amaro with tonic water as a topper for a refreshing, sweet coffee. This iteration is an interesting blend of a classic spritz and the hugely popular espresso martini.” That amaro house blend is made with a 3:1 ratio of Italian coffee liqueur to CioCiaro, a mild amaro with distinct bitter orange and dark chocolate notes. In a pinch, this pick-me-upper could be made with a full ounce of either coffee liqueur or amaro. It won’t have quite…

Here’s a fun math problem: A typical raspberry weighs about four grams. If Vittorio Capovilla uses 50 kilograms of raspberries to make a liter of his fruit distillate, how many raspberries does he need? Answer: 12,500 raspberries, give or take, per liter. Capovilla, a renowned 79-year-old Italian distiller, has never taken shortcuts. While many liqueurs use maceration to infuse a base alcohol with fruit, requiring only one kilogram of fruit per liter, he ferments pure ripe fruit naturally with native yeasts and distills it slowly at his distillery in Veneto. That’s why his distillates conjure the essences of strawberries, apricots, cherries and many other fruits with magical accuracy. The first things you notice about Capovilla are his bushy white eyebrows, sturdy handshake and hardscrabble elegance that’s part farmer, part scientist.…

The Tacuinum Sanitatis is a medieval guidebook about how to maintain a healthy lifestyle, originally written in Arabic in the 11th century. This page comes from a Latin edition published in Northern Italy around 1475. The text and illustrations are about making wine from Malvasia grapes and how to enjoy it while keeping your bodily humors balanced, i.e., avoiding a nasty hangover. Another section of the book advises that structured red wine should be paired with pomegranate; just be careful if you have a weak spleen. We also learn that aged aromatic wine can be bad for babies’ memories, but that can be remediated by pairing it with apples and lettuce hearts.…

DOC and DOCG labels on wine bottles refer to the top two tiers of Italy’s classification system, but there’s more to it than “DOC=good” and “DOCG=great.” A DOC (Denominazione di Origine Controllata, or Controlled Designation of Origin) regulates the grape varieties producers can use, the geographic boundaries of the region, time spent aging in barrel and bottle and the abv. The rules for DOCG (Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita, Controlled and Guaranteed Designation of Origin) are much stricter. DOCG wines must meet all the DOC criteria and are also subject to longer aging requirements, smaller harvest-yield limits, more anti-counterfeiting measures and even a taste test and chemical analysis by the Ministry of Agriculture. A wine needs to be DOC for 10 years before it can qualify for DOCG status,…

Special Designations Editors’ Choice: Products are those that offer excellent quality at a price above our Best Buy range, or a product at any price with unique qualities that merit special attention. Cellar Selections: Are products deemed highly collectible and/or requiring time in a temperature-controlled wine cellar to reach their maximum potential. Hidden Gems: Are products which are not your typical regional finds, but should not be missed. These fun, esoteric wines are priced above $20 and score above 87 points. Best Buys: Are products that offer a high level of quality in relation to price. Wines meriting this award are generally priced at $20 or less, and are designated Best Buys after surpassing 85 points and a specific quality-to-price ratio benchmark. SUBMITTING PRODUCTS FOR REVIEW: Products should be submitted as detailed…

RED WINES BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 96 Castiglion del Bosco 2020 Campo del Drago (Brunello di Montalcino). On the nose, the tang of wild herbs and blackberries is balanced by textured notes of coffee grinds and tilled soil. The palate brings more berries, alongside abundant salt and citrus, creating a bright, crunchy, lean, energetic feel that’s further intensified by an electric vein of acid. Castiglion del Bosco. —D.C. abv: 14% Price: $160 96 Col d’Orcia 2019 Vigna Nastagio (Brunello di Montalcino). A festive, inviting nose of figs, black cherries, blackberries, dark chocolate and walnuts warms and expands with sweet blackberries and more nuts and chocolate on the palate. A persistent, just barely bitter earthiness is emphasized by chalky, almost flinty tannins through a languorous finish. Taub Family Selections. —D.C. abv: 14.5% Price:…

RED WINES PRIMITIVO 92 Varvaglione Vigne & Vini 2020 Papale (Primitivo di Manduria). The nose is earthy, savory and spicy, with cinnamon, cumin, hot pavement and mixed herbs leading the way, while tart blackberries and a hint of milk chocolate provide balance. Those notes all reappear on the palate, as the chocolate and dark berries come into their own and the spices remain lively, while vibrant acid lifts undertones of bitter citrus, salt and pepper. WinesU. —D.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $29 91 Amastuola 2021 Lamarossa (Puglia). The nose is tangy, spicy and earthy, with aromas of top soil, pencil shavings, cinnamon, cumin, wild strawberries and pomegranate seeds. Sweet strawberries and raspberries headline the palate beneath a drizzle of pomegranate syrup, then the earth and spices reappear, before malted chocolate takes over on…

91 Rosset Terroir 2022 Petite Arvine (Valle d’Aosta). The wine glides from the glass with quiet assurance, lifting you straight to the alpine heights of Valle d’Aosta. Jasmine and elderflower dance with lemon curd. The palate balances tart freshness with a hint of baked apple richness while vibrant acidity and salty minerals echo the rugged mountain terrain. Rosset Terroir. Hidden Gem. —J.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $32 LOIRE VALLEY WHITE WINES SANCERRE 94 Maison de Madeleine 2023 Caillottes (Sancerre). This gorgeous Sancerre is a chameleon in a glass whose character flips on the palate while remaining entirely delicious. Intense golden fruit aromas of baked yellow apple and ripe Anjou pear surrender to brioche, bread dough, toast, bruised honeysuckle blossom and orange zest on the nose. The palate is creamy and delicious with yeasty…

RED WINES RIBERA DEL DUERO 95 Garmon Continental 2020 (Ribera del Duero). Rich, detailed aromatics are followed by flavors of anise, violets, and dark fruits with spiced tobacco and hints of sandalwood carrying the midpalate through the mineral finish. Refined tannins and complex flavors last through a long finish. Garmon Continental. —E.C.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $85 93 Cruz de Alba 2017 Finca los Hoyales (Ribera del Duero). Immediately vibrant, the nose veers toward bright red berries. The hint of reduction helps to streamline the palate, balancing both the minerality and fruitiness. Given the serious poise, my guess is that this wine has a real future ahead of it. Zamora Company USA. —B.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 92 Bodega Y Viñedos Milénico 2017 Valdepila De Milénico Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). This is deeply…

SPARKLING WINES 98 Gusbourne 2016 51°N Traditional Method Sparkling Blend (England). England’s most premium sparkler is all it’s cracked up to be. It walks a line between classic and modern. The bright, lucid nose of lemon curd, ricotta and toasted brioche, with flinty, nutty, mushroomy undertones, is hard to stop smelling. When you do, the palate doesn’t disappoint. It’s focused and long; the toastier, more lactic notes are well-tucked beneath a radiant sunbeam of unmistakably English acidity, a zing of citrus zest that makes taking another sip—or 10—an incredibly easy endeavor. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —C.P. abv: 12% Price: $370 97 Gusbourne 2020 Brut Reserve Traditional Method Sparkling Blend (England). 2020 was an excellent vintage in England and it shows on this Brut reserve from one of the region’s most acclaimed producers. It’s…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 96 Clos Henri 2024 Waimaunga Windblown Clays Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). French winemaker Damien Yvon and his team have a knack for lucidly expressing site in their Sauvignons (the biodynamic farming helps, too). The power from the weathered clay soils of Waimaunga is on full display in this complex wine. There’s herbflecked lime and passion fruit, with salt-and-stone mineral notes tucked behind. The depth and generosity can really be felt on the palate. It’s sculpted with a laser beam of acidity, an almost talc-like texture and an ultralong finish. One of this famed region’s top Sauvy Bs. Clos Henri. Editor’s Choice. —C.P. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 95 Clos Henri 2024 Otira Glacial Stones Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). There’s a gentleness to this single-site Sauvignon, from a top French-owned biodynamic estate. It’s concentrated,…

Since its release in 2006, Marquette has been a premium cold-hardy hybrid red grape. Designed by the University of Minnesota’s grapebreeding program to thrive in severe winter conditions, Marquette is also moderately resistant to downy and powdery mildew and black rot, which can reduce the need for certain vineyard sprays. This makes it especially attractive for sustainable, organic and regenerative viticulture. While widespread throughout the Midwest, Marquette has also found success in the cool climates of New York and Vermont. Furthermore, it is used in more far-flung regions for its disease resistance; plantings exist in Oregon, Canada, Patagonia, Finland and beyond. Most cold-hardy hybrid red varieties are fruit-forward with high acidity and low tannin levels, and Marquette is no different. It is often crafted in a gently extracted, lightly oaked…

The first time I visited Castello di Brolio, I arrived as the sun was dipping below the horizon. I was there to meet my friend Francesco Ricasoli, president of the renowned Ricasoli winery, whose ancestor, Bettino, invented the blend that became Chianti Classico. The castle carries almost 900 years of history and expectations, which, combined with the looming darkness and dense, sprawling woods of Chianti, was a little unnerving. I checked my phone and saw that I was actually supposed to link up with Francesco at the bottom of the road, not the top. I made my way back down, where I was delighted to discover a table with a classic Tuscan meal paired with the wines for which the castle and its surrounding vineyards are famous. My nerves started…

Rip out this page and stuff it in your pocket for when you go to the wine shop next or just search wineenthusiast.com/ratings. FOR THIS ISSUE Nearly 2,200 wines were blind-tasted and reviewed, with almost 1,400 bottles scoring higher than 90 points. Over 900 of those wines scored 90 points or higher 178 wines achieved scores of 95 points or higher Australian reds and whites showcased their great value, averaging a cost of $31 per bottle while receiving rave reviews Keeping on theme, over 350 Italian wines were reviewed, with their scores averaging 91 points “Some wines are born of soil and sun, others of history and heart. From the hallowed slopes of Serralunga, blackberry and damson weave through waves of mixed spice incense and sweet baking notes in a…

Chef’s tables are having a moment, but not in the stodgy sense of giving people a view of the action while keeping them conspicuously removed from the chefs and the inner workings of the kitchen. Perhaps inspired by the omakase boom, the best chef’s tables today give us a glimpse into the what, who and why behind the meal, with a hefty dose of theater for good measure. Ambra PHILADELPHIA, PA It’s a testament to the warm personalities of owners Marina de Oliveira and Chef Chris D’Ambro that this precisely wrought Italian tasting menu at the four-seat Kitchen Table always ends up feeling like the best dinner party of the year. To be fair, the dining room—consisting of one communal table—shares the celebratory vibes. Wines range from benchmark to new…

WHITE WINES GAVI 95 La Raia 2022 Riserva Vigna La Madonnina (Gavi). Fascinating savory depth emerges with delicate herbal undertones, framed by precise minerality. The lean, crisp structure showcases tart citrus pith and green apple while maintaining remarkable tension. Like a spirited young pony ready to bolt, this wine is holding its power in check: There’s so much potential coiled within. The taut, nervous energy suggests this will evolve beautifully with time. Drink from 2027. Tenimenti Rossi Cairo SRL. Cellar Selection. —J.P. abv: 13% Price: $21 94 Broglia 2021 Bruno Broglia (Gavi del Comune di Gavi). Ethereal aromatics of honeysuckle and jasmine float like a gentle breeze across hillsides, accompanied by delicate white-tea notes. The palate surprises with unexpected breadth, where brown-tinged orchard pears unfold against a cool marble-like minerality. The structure…

WHITE WINES 94 Noelia Ricci 2023 (Emilia-Romagna). Like catching up with an old friend, this Trebbiano delivers its familiar magic in a fresh new vintage. Concentrated notes of roasted apples drizzled with chestnut honey lead the way, while gentle sweet spices and a whisper of salt add complexity. The palate shows off a gorgeous texture—plush and round but never heavy, as bright acidity keeps everything dancing. It’s a reminder of why this wine is such a consistent crowd-pleaser, while also being a serious wine for aging. Drink now–2040. Noelia Ricci. Editor’s Choice. —J.P. abv: 13% Price: $29 94 Torre Zambra 2023 Piana Marina (d’Abruzzo). I never stopped thinking Abruzzo was one of the best places for wine in Italy, if not the world, but there was a moment where my attention was…

RED WINES 94 Donnafugata 2020 Mille e una Notte (Sicilia). The Mille e una Notte marriage of Syrah and Nero d’Avola feels like a fairy-tale romance—brooding and intense at first, then exuberant and exciting, with a warm, comforting finish. A story that gets better every time I read it. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —D.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $93 94 Donnafugata 2020 Tancredi (Terre Siciliane). The Tancredi blend is, like its namesake, both rich and beautiful, but also clever and unexpected, managing to respect what came before while testing new boundaries. It also has a vision for the future and I expect it will become truly exceptional as it matures. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —D.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 94 Tenuta Regaleali 2018 Rosso del Conte (Sicilia). Aromas of sweet blackberries are balanced by…

WHITE WINES GIGONDAS 97 Château de Saint Cosme 2023 Hominis Fides (Gigondas). This wine, in its youth, carries a delicate elegance with an understated power that makes it one to watch. The nose opens with a light touch of Pink Lady apple, white peach and white rose, but as it airs out, the layers grow deeper and more intriguing. On the palate, it starts off focused and direct, offering ripe Anjou pear wrapped in honeycomb and delicate white flowers, all lifted by a crisp, firm, stony minerality. Its initial simplicity is just a prelude to the depth that comes with air, revealing the wine’s true potential. It’s more than approachable now, but if you’re drinking soon, give it time to breathe, or better yet, let it rest in the cellar. This…

RIESLING 96 Nik Weis 2023 Bockstein Beerenauslese Riesling (Mosel). A dazzlingly rich and expressive dessert wine, bursting with layers of candied citrus, ripe apricot and quince paste. The concentration is remarkable, yet the wine maintains superb balance with its bright acidity, keeping the sweetness fresh and lively. Notes of honeyed peach, dried mango and a whisper of saffron add further depth, while the finish is endless, leaving an impression of both opulence and precision. A stunning example of what this vineyard can achieve at the highest level. Nik Weis | St. Urbans-Hof. Cellar Selection. —A.Z. abv: 8% Price: $285/375 ml 95 Fritz Haag 2023 Juffer-Sonnenuhr Gold Capsule Auslese Riesling (Mosel). A powerful and ripe Auslese, this delivers layers of honey, ripe guava, mango, passion fruit and glazed peach. The piercing acidity…

WHITE WINES 94 Kristinus Borbirtok 2021 Analog White Blend (Balatonboglár). A blend of biodynamically farmed, spontaneously fermented Welschriesling, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc grapes give this dry, tart white wine from Hungary its layered flavors. Aged for 10 months in amphorae and tanks, it has tart lemons and limes as well as balanced floral and funky flavors. It wraps up with a bright, citrus-forward finish. ZRS Wines LLC. Best Buy. —E.S. abv: 12% Price: $18 90 Count Karolyi 2023 Grüner Veltliner (Pannon). Lemon, nectarine, apricot, grapefruit pith and honeysuckle aromas burst out of the glass of this Gruner Vetliner from Hungary’s sunny Pannon region. The crisp, linear body has minerally notes plus citrus on the long, elegant finish. Quintessential. Best Buy. —E.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $12 RED WINE 96 Kristinus Borbirtok 2022…

In April, a deer crashed through the window of The Gin Room, a St. Louis bar and restaurant with a collection of 2,000 gin bottlings. “This thirsty forest friend busted in like it had a rezzy for a Negroni and no time to wait,” Gin Room owner Natasha Bahrami wrote on social media. “Ran around, broke some bottles (rude), and left us all shook and slightly impressed.” The skittish animal was safely shepherded back outdoors, where it might have a better chance of finding juniper berries, the piney botanical that’s a key flavoring in gin. It’s an exciting time for those who enjoy gin (and not just because deer are randomly bursting into gin bars). When things calmed down in her bar, we called on Bahrami to weigh in on…