Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2024 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

I’ve recently run into a conversation loop with visiting friends where they apologize to me for not enjoying bubbly drinks. Whether I’m offering canned seltzer, Champagne or a spritz, it seems as though nobody can burst the bubble’s hold on drinks of the moment. It’s so powerful in fact that people who are not taken by the charm of effervescence might feel ashamed by their (what could now be perceived as uncouth) preferences. And while cultural trends come and go, the surging popularity of fizzy drinks seems to be here to stay. There’s a reason we describe people we enjoy as “effervescent.” I’m a native New Yorker, and seltzer has always been a mainstay in our diet all the way back to the original egg cream invented in a…

Seattle is known for great seafood and abundant rain, and Madeleine Angevine goes wonderfully with the former and ripens early enough to pick before the latter. Producing dry, crisp wines, the grape is popular in Germany and the UK and grows well in its place of origin, France’s Loire Valley. But it absolutely flourishes in the cool, temperate climate of Washington State’s Puget Sound AVA, pairing perfectly with briny local oysters. People are often fooled by the reputation for rain in the Northwest, comments Betsey Wittick, who grows grapes and makes wine at Bainbridge Vineyards, an hour’s trip (including a 35-minute ferry ride) from downtown Seattle. Yet the summer climate is dry and Mediterranean, ideal for Madeleine Angevine. By the time the chance of rain really picks up in…

“To create a quality low-alcohol wine, you really have to start off with the good stuff,” says Casey DiCesare, winemaker for Scheid Family Wines in Soledad, California, where he oversees the winemaking program for the company’s low-abv Sunny with a Chance of Flowers label. What some consumers may not realize is that removing alcohol changes more than the abv. “Alcohol does a lot of great things for wine—it pulls aromatics to the top of the glass, adds weight to the midpalate, gives the perception of sweetness and fullness,” says DiCesare. Without it, acid can stick out, tannins may feel more aggressive—what’s more, the reverse osmosis (RO) process used to remove the alcohol concentrates these structural elements even further. “So, if you’re not compensating for that in the front end…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. STAFF EDITORS Anna-Christina Cabrales: Burgundy, Rhône Valley Cody Wexler: Provence WRITERS AT LARGE Michael Alberty: Oregon, Washington, Canada Elaine Chukan Brown: Napa Valley Danielle Callegari: Tuscany & Southern Italy Tom R. Capo: Sonoma County Cheron Cowan: Virginia Matt Kettmann: Central & South Coast California Kara Newman: Spirits, RTD Christina Pickard: Australia, New Zealand, England, New York Tonya Pitts: Northern California & California AVA Jeff Porter: Piedmont & Northern Italy Emily Saladino: Greece, Georgia, Hungary Reggie Solomon: Beaujolais, Loire Valley, Languedoc-Roussillon, Southern Coastal Spain Jesica Vargas: South America & South Africa Roger Voss: Portugal, France: Bordeaux, Champagne, Southwest & Other France Aleks Zecevic: Alsace, Vin…

WHITE WINES 92 El Enemigo 2021 Sémillón (Mendoza). This is a delicious example of Argentine Sémillon that shows depth and balance. The nose offers almond and white flowers followed by zesty notes. It’s enjoyable and fresh on the creamy palate, delivering chamomile and lemons. Stone fruit and wood spices are also included in the mix of flavors. Winebow Imports. —J.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $NA 90 Bodega Noemía de Patagonia 2019 A Lisa Sémillon (Río Negro Valley). This is a Sémillon from Patagonia that opens with aromas of peaches and pears. A focused citrus note runs through the oily texture and meets tropical flavors followed by dried fruit. It’s ripe and has moderate acidity. Vias Imports. Best Buy. —J.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $19 90 Bodega Piedra Negra 2023 Arroyo Grande…

Earlier this year I found myself stranded on the side of a remote, pothole-strewn track in rural England, dumped unceremoniously by a taxi whose driver refused to take me all the way to the winery of a celebrated but reclusive winemaker. My first thought? “Not again.” My wine career has been marked by a series of eventful journeys to reach farflung wineries. I once rode bareback on a horse named Romeo down the cobblestone streets of a tiny Loire Valley town led by a drunken natural winemaker who decided that midnight, post-boozy dinner, was exactly the right time to take a tour of his cellar; I sat silently tense in the back of a van while crossing through military checkpoints in Lebanon to reach Beqaa Valley wineries; I traversed…

CARMELO ANTHONY’S 40TH CELEBRATION Last summer, Robert Mondavi Winery and VII(N) The Seventh Estate celebrated Carmelo Anthony’s 40th birthday at The Nines in NYC. It coincided with the limited release of Ode to Soul, a red blend created in partnership with Robert Mondavi Winery. VII(N) is a wine estate founded by Carmelo Anthony and Asani Swann to bring new voices into the world of wine, offering premium wines while connecting perspectives and individuals from all walks of life.…

PEOPLE SAY THAT ANCHOVIES—THE TINY SALT-CURED FISH PACKED IN TINS—are a love-it or hate-it food. What they don’t tell you, though, is that even the “hate it” crowd has probably enjoyed them hundreds of times in restaurants, where chefs revere them as a ready source of umami flavor alongside things like miso, soy sauces and MSG. For the “love it” crowd, try dishes that put them center stage; though intensely salty, they retain enough oceanic complexity to welcome a range of wines. WHAT ARE WHITE ANCHOVIES? So-called “white” anchovies—aka boquerones—are the same fish as the tinned salt bombs, just uncured and packed in vinegar, which lightly pickles them. Mild and tangy, think of using them anywhere you’d use pickles, olives or lox, or as a milder substitute for tinned…

While much of the drink menu at NYC’s Coqodaq focuses on pairing Champagne and other sparkling wine with Korean-style fried chicken, bar manager Matt Chavez wanted to be sure the cocktail menu was just as exciting—including non-alcoholic options, like this drink. Tea became the focal point. “We use tea as a common thread in our menu because of its versatility and role in historical dining culture,” Chavez explains. “Tea not only has a unique set of flavors and textures but also traditionally was used as a natural ‘medicine.’” In the Grey Room, Earl Grey tea-infused coconut water and pineapple syrup wink at the flavors of a piña colada, while verjus (the pressed juice of unripened grapes) and non-alcoholic vermouth add bright acidity. He likens the final drink, stirred to…

Value doesn’t mean the same as inexpensive, though our Best Buys designated bottles are $20 or less. Our Editors’ Choice also denotes bottles that delight and provide a superior experience for their price point. You’ll find our top Best Buys of all that we’ve tasted in the past 12 months starting on pg. 54, and on pg. 111 a sampling of a few hundred of the thousands of wines we tasted just for this issue. Rip out this page and stuff it in your pocket for when you go to the wine shop next or just search wineenthusiast.com/ratings. FOR THIS ISSUE WE blind tasted more than 2,400 wines from all over the world for this issue More than 1,200 of them scored higher than 90 points Of those wines…

“If you know, you know.” The small world of Calvados is slowly changing—and that has everything to do with the people who are running the show. For decades, even centuries, Normandy’s distinct apple (and sometimes pear) brandy was the result of staunch tradition. Today, Calvados has taken a turn. Multi-generational family empires still exist—but many scions now work in other industries and countries first, bringing far-flung tastes and connections back to the family seat. Meanwhile, outsiders are just beginning to make headway into the realm, including ex-bartenders and former sommeliers who weren’t raised among the apple trees. The result: bottles that are evolving in fresh directions. Yet, it’s still a relatively small world: About 60 distilleries currently make Calvados, according to IDAC, the association that oversees the three appellations…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 93 Decoy 2023 Sauvignon Blanc (California). This wine is fresh, with aromas of citrus, white nectarine, yellow apple and orange-blossom water on the nose. The flavors on the palate are tangerine and Golden Delicious apple, sliding into white peach, white grapefruit zest and white pepper, with a mouthwatering, dry finish. Pair with fried calamari. Best Buy. —T.P. abv: 13.9% Price: $20 93 Kendall-Jackson 2022 Kelsey Hills Sauvignon Blanc (Red Hills). This wine is lively, crisp with aromas of yellow apple, citrus, melon and honeysuckle on the nose. The flavors on the palate are Key lime cream and yellow apple, interwoven with mineral, citrus blossom and a dry, supple finish. Pair with grilled Gulf prawns in lemon butter sauce. —T.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 93 Kenzo Estate 2023…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 91 Lapostolle 2022 Cuvée Alexandre Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This full-bodied Cabernet has a nose of cranberries, blackberries and herbs. Fruity and fresh, it offers integrated notes of wood spices that enhance dark berry flavors, leading to a lengthy finish. Winebow Imports. —J.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 90 Los Vascos 2020 Cromas Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon (Colchagua Valley). This Cabernet bursts with aromas of ripe red plum. The palate begins with notes of bay leaves and mint, followed by raspberries and blackberries. It has good acidity, adding freshness to the spicy finish. Taub Family Selections. —J.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $24 90 Odfjell 2020 Orzada Cabernet Sauvignon (Central Valley). This is an enjoyable medium-bodied Cabernet, with aromatic herbs on the nose and red berries on the palate. Made…

BEAUNE 93 Domaine Chanson 2020 Clos Des Marconnets Premier Cru (Beaune). Aromas of black cherry, ripe black plums, clove, shiitake mushroom, and gravel meld harmoniously in the glass. The palate offers a lush experience, with tannins that coat the mouth and support layers of plum, violets and spice. Its silky texture lingers long on the palate, keeping the palate craving for more. Enjoyable with spicy charcuterie boards and semi-firm goat cheeses with truffle. Vintus LLC. —A.C.C. abv: 15% Price: $55 93 Edouard Delaunay 2021 Grèves Premier Cru (Beaune). A beautiful melding of black cherry and violet creates a beautiful bouquet. The palate is round, with a good texture and density that is balanced with mouthwatering acidity and fine minerality. While the palate is currently quiet, it whispers a dark-fruited…

RIESLING 93 Madame Flock 2021 Mad Dog Warwick Riesling (Mosel). Underneath the initial reduction, there is an enticing mix of coriander, shaved orange peel, passion fruit and slate flavors, with spice and cardamom details chiming in on the midpalate. There is a textural grip that adds to the structure but also provides support for the juicy finish. An exciting, alternative expression of Mosel Riesling. Living Wine. Editors’ Choice. —A.Z. abv: 11% Price: $45 93 Nik Weis 2022 St. Urbans-Hof Goldtröpfchen GG Riesling (Mosel). Corduroy-like texture threads all the elements together in this complex and interesting white. Hints of cardamom pastry, chamomile tea and beeswax complement the orchard and citrus fruit here, with nice underlying saltiness adding a mineral component. The finish is long and complex. Best after 2028. HB…

If you want to turn a cocktail into a celebration, splash in some sparkling wine. “When you add it to a cocktail, it adds dryness and acidity—but it also delivers an entire mood, a vibe,” explains Elva Ramirez, author of Sparkling: Champagne and Sparkling Cocktails for Any Occasion (Union Square & Co.). “It makes everything more special and memorable.” History supports that celebratory spark: Wine, and later Champagne, was the customary quaff after France’s royal coronations. That enthusiasm for bubbly spilled over to America, becoming a symbol of aspirational luxury and style during the Gilded Age of the late 19th century. As the cocktail renaissance dawned, sparkling wine and mixology soon became entwined, with Champagne cocktails appearing in influential early books like William “Cocktail” Boothby’s 1891 American Bartender guide.…

Yotam Ottolenghi’s newest cookbook, Ottolenghi Comfort, may end up the most dog-eared of his many books on your shelf. As the name suggests, these are old and new favorites of his—and coauthors Helen Goh, Verena Lochmuller and Tara Wigley—that evoke nostalgia and beg to be shared. Of these fishcakes, he says, “As with most things potatoey and fried, these are a family-dinner-winner, served with a simple salad or piled into a brioche bun or baguette for lunch.” Try making smaller ones for dinner parties or holidays, as well. SALMON FISHCAKES WITH CHERMOULA REMOULADE Adapted from Ottolenghi Comfort by Yotam Ottolenghi, Helen Goh, Verena Lochmuller and Tara Wigley. (Ten Speed Press) 1 large sweet potato (about 9¾ ounces)2 russet (or other floury) potatoes (about 9¾ ounces)1 teaspoon olive oil1 pound…

From the time grapes are crushed until they go into the bottle, hoses—usually 1 1/to 3 inches in diameter and anywhere from 25 to 100 feet long—are the most used cellar tool. From pumping freshly pressed juice into tanks to pumpovers (to aerate and and increase color concentration, among other things) to racking off lees to pumping into barrels, the humble hose is winemaking’s most valuable player—well, other than the humans dragging, attaching, clamping and coiliing and uncoiling and recoiling those hoses multiple times a day.…

More often than not, celebrity-driven spirits tend to miss the mark. Maybe I’m still feeling petty after a TV personality with a shiny new gin ghosted me for an interview. Perhaps. Don’t worry, I’ll get over it. After cycling through the stages of grief in record time: (Denial, Indignance, Inferiority Complex, Huffy Texts to Friends, Acceptance), I’ve been thinking about celeb-owned spirits and what’s wrong with so many of them. Over the past decade or so, I’ve secured exactly two celebrity spirit interviews of merit, both for this magazine. Ludacris was the first celebrity I ever interviewed, on the launch of his Conjure Cognac: over the phone, with a PR rep monitoring every word on our 15-minute Q&A, every softball question submitted ahead of time for scrutiny. To my…

Nestled in the rugged landscapes of Alto Adige, where sun-kissed vineyards meet the towering Alps, a quiet winemaking revolution is unfolding. This region, also called Südtirol and where Austrian and Italian cultures converge and mountain hiking complements viticulture, is where tradition and innovation dance in harmony. Amid the picturesque Alpine landscape, wine cooperatives have long shaped the region’s identity. However, dedicated families and local hospitality owners are transforming the wine scene by reviving in-house vinification. With a push from visionary winemakers, this part of Northern Italy is rapidly evolving. In the heart of Südtirol’s wine country, wineries Pranzegg, In der Eben, Garlider and Thomas Niedermayr emerged as beacons of change. They founded Freistil, a collective driven by organic and biodynamic farming, with the aim to break free from convention.…

Jesica Vargas (J.V.) reviews wines from Argentina, Chile and South Africa; Tonya Pitts (T.P.) reviews wines from Northern California and California-appellated wines—all regions that dominate our Best Buy list. Flip to page 54 to see the Top 100 Best Buys of 2024. J.V.: Best Buys should spark excitement about a region. The wines I’ve sampled from this category surpass the typical price-to-quality expectation. I’m particularly impressed, for example, by the Sauvignon Blancs from the coastal vineyards of Chile’s Casablanca, where the cool Humboldt current shapes the vines that produce crisp and fresh whites. Casas del Bosque produces an exquisite bottling. “Wines found on this list also show the innovative grape growing and winemaking spirit of today’s industry.” What’s even more exciting is that wines found on this list also…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 91 DeLille 2021 Marguerite Sauvignon Blanc (White Bluffs). Marguerite’s aromas are a tropical whirlwind of pineapple, orange and guava. The medium-bodied, barrel-fermented Sauvignon Blanc will make “Gilligan’s Island” fans salivate with its flavors of coconut cream pie, passion fruit and ginger. These flavors glide along the wine’s creamy texture. —M.A. abv: 14.4% Price: $75 91 Januik 2023 Sagemoor Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc (White Bluffs). While lemons, cut grass and talc dominate as far as aromas go, there’s also a tiny sweet wisp of donut peaches that is quite nice. Bracing acidity goes hand in hand with flavors of tangerines, preserved lemons, ginger and a bitter green tea note. This 100% Sauvignon Blanc aged five months in French oak, 15% new. —M.A. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 91 Mark Ryan…

GRENACHE 96 Thistledown 2021 Sands of Time Grenache (McLaren Vale). The sandy Blewitt Springs subregion is renowned for stellar old-vine Grenache and this doesn’t disappoint. Pleasing aromas of blueberry and strawberry compote and violets lead with a stony, dried-herbal note behind. Light on its feet, there’s a silky ease here, with the fruit, acidity and fine tannins well integrated to form an elegant wine that effortlessly expresses place and variety. Southern Starz, Inc. —C.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 95 Thistledown 2021 Charming Man Grenache (McLaren Vale). From the cooler Clarendon subregion of McLaren Vale, there’s complexity and elegance here that can be hard to achieve in hotter regions. There’s fruit and florals aplenty, but they’re gently expressed, woven into mineral and ground spice notes. Like a slinky black dress,…

WHITE WINES 94 Cornelia Tessari 2021 Bine Longhe Costalta (Soave Superiore). This supersolid Soave is a well-constructed wine with a firm structure. Aromas of bruised yellow apple, honeysuckle and a hint of smoke entice the nose. On the palate, flavors of ripe pear, lemon zest and a touch of almond paste emerge, supported by a backbone of refreshing acidity that will allow it to age for years. Drink Now–2035. —J.P. abv: NA Price: $NA 94 Vignaioli Contrà Soarda 2017 Vespaiolo (Breganze). Seeking an aromatic white adventure? This Vespaiola is your ticket. Pressed wildflowers such as chamomile, elderflower and acacia mingle with orange oil, petrol and striking minerality for an enticing treat. The broad palate boasts ripe honeydew, mandarin orange, Key lime and lemongrass, culminating in a long, stony mineral…

TOKAJ 93 Vega Sicilia 2014 Oremus Tokaji Azú 6 Puttonyos White Blend (Tokaj). Honeyed apricots, juicy grapefruits and stewed figs convene on the palate of this beautifully balanced and structured Hungarian dessert wine. The long finish is bright, keeping the sweetness in check and leaving you eager for another sip. Europvin USA. —E.S. abv: 11% Price: $146 96 Royal Tokaji 2018 Betsek Single Vineyard 6 Puttonyos White Blend (Tokaj). Almonds, hazelnuts, lemon curd and sweetly stewed figs headline the nose of this single-vineyard Hungarian dessert wine, which has a pleasantly viscous palate rich with vanilla custard and spiced pear compote. The long finish has a subtle tartness, making you crave another sip. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —E.S. abv: 10.5% Price: $135 96 Royal Tokaji 2018 Nyulászó Single Vineyard 6 Puttonyos…

Rum suffers from a split personality. On one hand, the sugarcane spirit wants to be the life of the party, mixing into Piña Coladas, Mai Tais and more. On the other, it wants to be taken seriously, as “sipping rum” grows ever more expensive and seeks to compete with brown spirits, namely whiskey and aged tequila. “[Reviews] span from a rare $500 collector’s item to a bargain-priced bottle that can be picked up at Costco.” A recent spin around the New York Rum Festival underscored this dichotomy. The booth of an esteemed producer of single-estate Jamaican rum stood right next to a brand sending shots of bright yellow, banana-flavored rum down a giant ice luge. Luckily, there’s room for both. (And if you think I skipped past that ice…