Innholdsfortegnelse for June/July 2024 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

I remember it well. The first time I tried wine made with regeneratively grown grapes side-by-side with one called simply “sustainable” was at Robert Hall Winery back in 2022. It was a hot August day—as all August days seem to be in Paso Robles—beautiful but sizzling. The team served two versions of the same Cabernet Sauvignon made from vines only a few rows apart, planted just yards from where we sat. There were some flavor components in the glass that were slightly improved. Specifically, the regeneratively grown Cab had a more complex texture than its sustainable sibling. However, that wasn’t what I took away from the tasting. I took away the feeling that within this glass lay the solution to saving the world. That trip to Paso was so…

Based in Adelaide, Aussie bartender and distiller Steven Roennfeldt is best known for his “Steve the Bartender” YouTube channel, which he started in 2015 (he can also be found on Instagram and TikTok at @stevethebartender). This is his take on a drink created by Joerg Meyer, the owner of the Le Lion bar in Germany, where they make about 300 to 500 Basil Smashes a week, he estimates. BASIL SMASH Adapted from Steve the Bartender’s Cocktail Guide, by Steven Roennfeldt (DK Publishing, 2022) 10 basil leaves2 ounces gin1 ounce fresh lemon juice¾ ounce simple syrupBasil sprig, for garnish In a cocktail shaker, gently muddle the basil leaves. Add remaining ingredients and ice. Shake for 10 to 12 seconds, then double strain over fresh ice into an Old-Fashioned glass. Garnish…

A few months back, just as he had done for the five previous seasons, John Branding went to his field in Virginia, adjacent to his brewhouse, planted the grain that would soon grow, be harvested and later turned into beer. Branding, who owns Wheatland Spring Brewery with wife Bonnie, calls the enterprise an “estate brewery” that practices regenerative agriculture to grow grains and uses renewable energy to brew. Grain is a crucial ingredient to making beer, but most breweries in the United States rely on large commercial grain suppliers to make ales and lagers. A small—but growing—number use grains grown on small farms in at least some of their beers. There are reasons that most brewers rely on commercial growers. “Practicing regenerative agriculture involves more manual labor than you…

California’s vineyards are on the verge of crisis. Vine disease is rampant, labor costs are exploding, and the climate is getting hotter, sometimes wetter, certainly weirder. But most places you look, the vineyards appear exactly as they did decades ago: trellised, trimmed and utterly exposed to increasingly hostile elements. Despite brand new challenges, many are battling the same old ways—bringing shovels to a knife fight. Not everyone thinks this way. A growing number of vintners across the state are managing their lands with proactive philosophies born from extensive experience and backed up by tangible outcomes. While many of their strategies rely on the latest science and technology, it turns out that the best tool we have to win this fight is as old as time, because Mother Nature can…

This year, Demeter, the leading certification organization for biodynamic agriculture, marks the 100th anniversary of biodynamics. Some may know that the teachings of Rudolf Steiner, an Austrian philosopher and social reformer, laid its foundations. Perhaps this is why his home country is at the leading edge of environmental stewardship today, especially when it comes to viticulture. If you don’t know very much about Steiner himself, you are not alone. In the annals of history, few figures stand as complex and enigmatic as Rudolf Steiner. Born in 1861 in the Austrian Empire (in a town that is now part of Croatia), Steiner was a polymath whose influence extended far beyond the conventional boundaries of academia and philosophy. His insight into spirituality and connecting it with science created a legacy that…

FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEENTHUSIAST.COM/RATINGS A GOLDEN STATE OF VINE California is elevating classics and embracing innovation. The Golden State’s wines shimmer as brightly as ever. You might be shocked to read the statement above if you’ve just paid attention to the sensationalist headlines that claim rising costs and wacky weather are driving stakes into the heart of California’s wine business. But based on the reports of our four California reviewers, myself included, California remains a superstar on the global wine scene. All varieties play leading roles. Chardonnay is sexy again, from Sonoma Coast to the Santa Cruz Mountains. Sauvignon Blanc is soaring, from Edna Valley to Happy Canyon. Chenin Blanc is the comeback kid, from Chalone to the Sierra Foothills. And reds, like those Cabs, Merlots,…

94 Desparada 2022 Callisto Sauvignon Blanc (Central Coast). The nose on this blend of Oliver’s Vineyard in Edna Valley and Presqu’ile in Santa Maria is focused and direct, delivering aromas of lawn clippings, grapefruit zest and rainy sidewalk. Taut in structure and generous in flavor, the palate shows waves of citrus followed by clay, mud and then green sansho peppercorns. —M.K. abv: 13.3% Price: $42 94 Desparada 2022 Epione Moretti Canyon Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc (Edna Valley). Energetic aromas of grass clippings, lime peels and rainy sidewalk zip across the racy nose of this bottling from vines planted more than 20 years ago. The palate is lively and super chalky, offering more lime and grass flavors as well as an appealing hint of underripe pineapple. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $38…

94 M. Mathis Winegrower 2022 Alfaro Vineyard Grüner Veltliner (Santa Cruz Mountains). This is a fascinating bottling, one of the better Grüners in the state. Aromas of Asian pear, honeydew, jicama and sweet herb show on the crisp nose. Sizzling acidity and a fantastic grip frame the palate, where vibrant and tantalizing citrus and green-fruit flavors pop long into the finish. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $29 93 Grafted 2022 Escondido Albariño (San Diego County). Albariño might be the perfect grape for the Escondido region of San Diego County, as it retains acidity and coastal pizzazz even in warmer climates. This bottling puts minerality at the forefront, showing crushed riverstone aromas alongside citrus flesh and nectarine on the nose. The palate is sharp with acidity and very textural, offering white…

98 Paul Lato 2021 Stand by Me Drum Canyon Vineyard Pinot Noir (Sta. Rita Hills). Lavish and intense aromas of Luxardo cherry, toasted spices and warm cherry pie draw the nose into this single-vineyard expression. There’s crunchiness to the black raspberry base of the palate, where the fresh texture creates a fantastic sensation that goes beyond mere fruit and spice flavors. —M.K. abv: 14% Price: $90 97 Farm Cottage 2022 Trout Gulch Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Cruz Mountains). There’s a tremendous purity of fruit on this single-vineyard expression from second-generation vintner Ryan Alfaro. Aromas of frozen strawberry and black raspberry sorbet are lifted by wild mint and damp soil on the nose. The palate is jubilant and joyous, with berry, cherry pie and lightly toasted flavors. —M.K. abv: 13.2%…

93 Ovis 2019 Petit Verdot (High Valley). This wine is rich, opulent and lively. Concentrated with blackberry, blueberry pie and orange zest weave into toasty vanilla spice, cardamom, red berry flavors, mineral and dried herbs to finish. Decant and enjoy with hearty beef stew. —T.P. abv: 14.1% Price: $60 92 Gibbs 2019 Petit Verdot (Calistoga). Juicy blackberries, plums and boysenberry fill the mouth with flavor. The tannins are palate coating while velvety, keeping the wine approachable and delicious through a long finish. —E.C.B. abv: NA Price: $60 92 Ruby Hill Winery 2021 Jewel Collection Petit Verdot (Livermore Valley). This wine is dense, concentrated with aromas of spiced blackberry, boysenberry, florals and cloves. The midpalate has flavors of blueberry, cardamom spice and grilled blood-orange zest intertwined with sedimentary rock, dried…

95 Majuscule 2021 Merlot (Mount Veeder). Fine-grained while firm tannins and a long finish carry flavors of mixed berries and graphite, with accents of cocoa and bay. Offering impressive structure and focus, this firmly wound Merlot will benefit from decanting, and stand up to a nice range of foods. Drink 2028–2040. —E.C.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 94 Herman Story 2021 On The Fence Bien Nacido Vineyard Merlot (Santa Maria Valley). Blackberry, chipped oak, loamy soil and a hint of mushroom make for a rich and enticing nose on this Merlot from a cool-climate vineyard. Impressively dense and firm with tannins, the palate carries baked cherry, milk chocolate and baking spice flavors that are approachable despite being bold. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 15.7% Price: $88 94 Seavey 2021 Merlot (Napa…

95 Mauritson 2021 Zinfandel (Russian River Valley). Raspberry and black cherry aromas burst from the glass, mingling with notes of lavender and anise. The palate is brilliantly balanced and loaded with bombastic berry jam, lemon zest, root beer and licorice flavors. There’s no way around the absolute deliciousness of this wine. Editors’ Choice. —T.R.C. abv: 14.75% Price: $50 94 Frog’s Leap 2021 Zinfandel (Napa Valley). Mouthwatering and delicious with crisp acidity and a driving finish, this wine offers a pleasing range of flavors including mixed cherries, cranberries, warming spices and savory accents. Both friendly and beguiling, it has pleasing approachability and depth. Firm while moderate tannins and mouthwatering acidity create a palate-cleansing accompaniment to a wide range of foods. Editors’ Choice. —E.C.B. abv: 13.6% Price: $45 94 Robert Biale…

AMERICAN SINGLE MALT The still-emerging category reflects spirit-filled innovation. “In 10 years, bourbon will still be bourbon,” said Joseph O’Sullivan. “But American single malt shows geography, terroir—it’s a reflection of America. It will change how people look at American whiskey.” O’Sullivan, master distiller for Oregon’s Hood River Distillers and Clear Creek Distillery, shared those remarks at a Bar Convent Brooklyn panel last June. To rephrase his observation: Bourbon, America’s native corn-based whiskey, is a mature entity with well-defined parameters. Everyone knows what it is. By comparison, American single malt (ASM) is still evolving. ASM is made from 100% malted barley, distilled at one distillery and made nearly start-to-finish in the U.S. As of this writing, ASM is not yet an official spirits category recognized by the U.S. government. But…

There’s nothing novel about blending multiple vintages of wine into one bottle. It’s the basic formula for things like Champagne, Sherry and Port, after all. But a growing number of California producers are applying the concept to still red wines. “Wineries and winemakers get too hung up on vintage-dated and vineyard-designated wines,” says John Falcone, a veteran of Napa and Santa Barbara wine regions who makes Falcone Family Vineyards with his wife, Helen Falcone, from their small estate in Paso Robles. About 15 years ago, the couple launched their multivintage Annaté, inspired by pre-1980s California bottlings that embraced the nonvintage (NV) model. Their current release blends Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah from 2019, 2020 and 2021. “Not being limited to a single vintage is a great advantage because…

THE STAR OF LATE SPRING FARMER’S MARKETS, CHERRIES are a quintessentially West Coast fruit: California, Oregon and Washington produce more than 90% of the country’s sweet cherries (props to Michigan, which grows most of the sour cherries). Like other stone fruits—peaches, plums, apricots, even almonds—cherries are in the rose family, which contributes to their romantic appeal. What to drink depends how you choose to use them. CHERRY SAUCE Cherries are delicious in a quick pan sauce (recipe at right) for pork or duck. The cherry flavors of Sangiovese are balanced by high acidity and, often, savory notes of tomato, olive and dried herbs. It works with both the cherries and the meat. SALAD Add cherries to any green salad, especially with goat or blue cheese, basil or mint, and…

The White on Green originated due to two strokes of luck during the spring of 2021. The first: Augusto Lino, mixologist and bar manager of Noir, an intimate, dimly lit cocktail bar tucked within the lower level of The Charles Hotel in Cambridge, Massachusetts, blocks from Harvard Square and Longfellow House—Washington’s Headquarters National Historic Site. Observing from behind the bar, Lino noted his Cambridge clientele’s penchant for watching Wimbledon. Players clad in tennis whites face off on a grass court, a Pimm’s Cup the classic accompaniment. The second bit of luck: After an extensive tasting of German and Austrian Rieslings for Noir’s wine list, several open bottles were left behind. Lino grew up in São Paolo and arrived in New York City as an exchange student in 2002, planning…

Top 5 Best Buys These wines represent the highest quality-to-price ratio at $20 or less. 94 Vinos Regionales 2021 Gordo Monastrell (Yecla) Price: $20 abv: 14% 94 Howard Park 2020 Miamup Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River) Price: $20 abv: 14.5% 93 Viladellops 2022 Xarel-lo (Penedès) Price: $19 abv: 12.5% 93 Bon Vivant NV Sparkling Wine Chardonnay-Pinot Noir (California) Price: $20 abv: 12.5% 92 J. Lohr 2022 Riverstone Chardonnay (Arroyo Seco) Price: $14 abv: 14% Top 5 Hidden Gems These wines may be atypical but they are worth trying—especially if you are looking for something different. 99 Henschke 2008 Hill of Grace Shiraz (Eden Valley) Price: $1,325 abv: 14.5% 95 Grgich Hills 2020 Miljenko’s Selection Crljenak Kaštelanski Estate Grown Red Blend (Napa Valley) Price: $65 abv: 14.5% 95 Gregory James Wines…

Whether driving up 101 through inland Mendocino or veering west on 128 through Anderson Valley, it’s clear why Mendocino County AVA is reputed as California’s greenest wine region. Where else does vine land kiss ancient redwood forests? Images may be worth 1,000 words, but numbers don’t lie: 25% of Mendocino County’s vineyard acres are certified organic (accounting for a third of certified organic vineyards across the Golden State); 1,094 acres are Demeter Biodynamic. Then add on 10,626 acres of certified Fish Friendly Farming and the 8,179 acres certified through California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance … and you start to get the idea. “Mendocino County’s wine industry has long been at the forefront in terms of conscious viticulture in the United States,” comments Mark Wentworth, proprietor of Wentworth Vineyards. “Whether the…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. STAFF EDITORS Anna-Christina Cabrales: Burgundy, Rhône Valley Cody Wexler: Provence WRITERS AT LARGE Michael Alberty: Oregon, Washington, Canada Elaine Chukan Brown: Napa Valley Danielle Callegari: Tuscany & Southern Italy Thomas R. Capo: Sonoma County Mike DeSimone: Spain, Croatia, Israel, Turkey, Lebanon, Armenia Matt Kettmann: Central & South Coast California Kara Newman: Spirits, RTD Christina Pickard: Australia, New Zealand, England, New York Tonya Pitts: Northern California & California AVA Jeff Porter: Piedmont & Northern Italy Emily Saladino: Greece, Georgia, Hungary Reggie Solomon: Beaujolais, Loire Valley, Languedoc-Roussillon Jesica Vargas: South America & South Africa Roger Voss: Portugal, France: Bordeaux, Champagne, Southwest & Other France Aleks Zecevic:…

93 Foxen 2022 Old VIne Ernesto Wickenden VIneyard Chenin Blanc (Santa Maria Valley). This Chenin Blanc is a Central Coast highlight of each vintage. This year’s begins with tightly wound aromas of lemon gelato and wet rocks. The palate of the wine shows white flower and chalk, proving refreshing, textural and hard to put down. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.1% Price: $30 92 Walker Bateman 2023 Moor Sisters/Saureel Vineyards Chenin Blanc (Sierra Foothills). This wine is rich, concentrated with aromas of mango, apple, pear, papaya and toasty oak on the nose. The midpalate has flavors of fresh peach, cantaloupe and cinnamon spice intertwined with orange-blossom honey, dried herbs, mineral and a dry finish. Pair with fried oysters. —T.P. abv: 12.2% Price: $36 91 Big Basin 2022 Rodnick Farm Vineyard…

94 Domaine Carneros NV Cuvée de la Pompadour Sparkling Blend (Carneros). Flavors of ginger, rose, pomegranate and citrus show on the palate, with racy acidity and a long, creamy finish. A classic blend of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, this sparkling rosé is poised, refreshing and intriguing. Delicious. —E.C.B. abv: 12% Price: $47 94 Goldeneye 2020 Brut Rosé Sparkling Blend (Anderson Valley). This wine is zesty, lively with aromas of fresh strawberry, raspberry, rose petal and mineral. The midpalate has a creamy, fine mousse with tiny bubbles. Flavors stretch into juicy strawberry, Bing cherry and mandarin orange, with a flinty, dry finish. Pair with seafood and sunshine. —T.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $72 94 Olet’te NV Sparkling Reserve Brut Joie de Vivre Chardonnay-Pinot Noir (California). This wine is bright, crisp with…

93 Stasis 2022 Gamay Noir (Santa Maria Valley). Hearty boysenberry aromas meet with loamy earth and sifted ash on the intense nose of this bottling. The palate is deep in dark berry, pepper, lavender and lilac flavors that are wrapped in a creamy texture, making for a serious sip. —M.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 93 Stasis 2022 Gamay Noir (Santa Barbara County). That typical Gamay aromatic pairing of berry and crushed stone show strongly on the nose of this county cuvée, which also offers hints of lavender. The palate is tense and lively with boysenberry, black raspberry, violet and cracked pepper flavors. —M.K. abv: 14.3% Price: $55…

97 Alma Rosa 2021 El Jabali Vineyard Syrah (Sta. Rita Hills). In this bottling, winemaker Samra Morris is tapping the cool-climate Syrah vein like few others. The nose is awash in lamb, hot asphalt, iodine and dried berry aromas. Thick but firm in tannins, the palate shows amazingly savory flavors of charred lamb, olive tapenade, black currant and pepper sauce. —M.K. abv: 14.7% Price: $85 96 Holus Bolus 2022 Presqu’ile Vineyard Syrah (Santa Maria Valley). Few wines age better than cool-climate Syrah, and the generosity of fruit in this vintage will be fascinating to track as savory elements take hold. Aromas of strawberry, raspberry, pepper and foggy redwood forest kick off the nose. The palate lands with bay and eucalyptus leaf flavors that meet with underripe blackberry, green peppercorn…

94 Desparada 2021 Serrata Petite Sirah (Central Coast). Dense and intense on the nose, this bottling is a blend of Shell Creek from the Paso Robles Highlands and Nolan Ranch in Alisos Canyon. It offers aromas of blackberry syrup, fennel pollen and cookie crumble. The palate, where the tannins and acidity are expertly integrated, picks up cracked pepper, charred beef and clove flavors, giving a spicy edge to the core of blueberry and açaí. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $60 93 Handley 2019 Petite Sirah (Redwood Valley). This wine is concentrated, with aromas of deep black fruits, dried herbs and potpourri. The palate offers blackberry confiture, boysenberry, molasses, black tea leaf and blood-orange zest wrapped around sedimentary rock, with a long, dry finish. Decant for an hour and enjoy. —T.P.…

100 Quintessa 2021 Bordeaux-style Red Blend (Rutherford). An exquisite wine, relying primarily on Cabernet Sauvignon from a single estate. Aromas of lavender, dried herbs and grapefruit pith combine with flavors of firm fruits and cocoa on a structure of abundant, powder-fine tannin and a mouthwatering finish. This wine is refined, detailed and delicious, with as much elegance as energy. Best 2026–2040. Cellar Selection. —E.C.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $250 97 Larkmead 2021 Firebelle Red Blend (Napa Valley). This attractive and sophisticated wine relies on a hearty portion of Merlot combined with the structure of Cabernet Sauvignon and aromatics of Cabernet Franc. Tobacco, toasted oak and roast coffee aromatics are greeted by flavors of black plum, sweet tobacco and dark chocolate, with a refreshing lift of fennel. Creamy, palate-coating tannins carry…

97 QuintEssential Portside American Single Malt Whiskey (USA; Cedar Ridge Distillery, Swisher, IA). With a distinctly nutty aroma, this silky single malt opens with concentrated pecan pie and maple, evolving into dried dates and figs. It finishes with hints of orange peel and cinnamon tingle. Aged in ex-bourbon casks for six years and finished in casks that previously held ruby port and amontillado sherry, as well as virgin French oak casks. Limited edition. abv: 58.6% Price: $100 96 Westward American Single Malt Cask Strength (USA; Westward Whiskey, Portland, OR). This is remarkably soft and sweet for a cask-strength whiskey. Just a splash of water enhances the toffee aroma and creamy butterscotch and spice flavors, layered with hints of orange peel and hops. Clove, cinnamon and ginger create a warming…

For those immersed in the wine education world, the systematic approach to tasting (SAT), in which one evaluates the overall quality of a wine based on balance, length, intensity and complexity (or the BLIC scale), will be quite familiar. Now the cannabis industry, too, has a means for assessing tokes. “Cannabis is very nuanced and complicated,” says Derek Gilman, managing director of Ganjier. The Ganjier program, in short, is the weed-world’s answer to the sommelier—industry experts who’ve gone through training to guide consumers in finding the right herb for them. “The inspiration behind creating and developing the systematic assessment protocol (SAP) comes from different epicurean-based industries,” explains Gilman, pointing toward the Court of Master Sommeliers, the Ciceron Certification Program and, of course, the Wine & Spirits Education Trust (WSET).…

95 Flowers 2022 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This native-yeast-fermented Chardonnay is a swirl of golden sunshine in the glass, with aromas of tangy tangerine, orange blossom and sweet cinnamon on the nose. Bright and balanced, the palate has lovely precision and freshness. Enjoy now–2040. Cellar Selection. —T.R.C. abv: 13.5% Price: $55 95 Sanford 2021 Sanford & Benedict Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Earthy aromas of wool and melon rind are cut by lemon peel on the nose of this bottling from the region’s most historic property. The palate is immensely chalky in texture and fresh in flavor, as tantalizingly generous citrus flavors play against the grippy structure. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $62 95 Thomas Fogarty 2021 Albutom Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). Very delicate yet utterly enticing on the nose,…

92 Grafted 2022 Pinot Gris (Clarksburg). This wine is vibrant, zesty with aromas of orange blossom, yellow apple, spiced peach and dried herbs on the nose. The midpalate has flavors of white grapefruit, nectarine and cinnamon wrapped around baked apple, caramel and a dry, long finish. Pair with fruit salad. —T.P. abv: NA Price: $NA 92 Les Belles Collines 2019 Pinot Gris (California). This wine is fresh, lively with aromas of white peach, white grapefruit, white flowers and white pepper on the nose. The midpalate has flavors of orange-blossom water, Pink Lady apple and white tea slipping into fresh fennel, mineral, earth and a dry finish. Pair with sardines. —T.P. abv: 14.4% Price: $40 90 3 Steves Winery 2023 Pinot Grigio (Livermore Valley). This wine is crisp, zesty with…

97 Larkmead 2021 Solari Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). This distinctive and sophisticated 100% Cabernet Sauvignon is attractive, delicious and built to age. Aromas of freshly roasted coffee cascade into flavors of violet and sweet plum sprinkled with spiced cocoa. The tannins are persistent and velvety carrying into a long finish. Well done. —E.C.B. abv: 14.7% Price: $200 95 Baker & Hamilton 2020 Cabernet Sauvignon (Oakville). Pleasing flavors of black currant, sweet tobacco, bay laurel and graphite are carried on a well-structured and refined frame of persistent tannins and mouthwatering acidity. This is a well-crafted Cabernet Sauvignon with the tenacity to age, expressive of where it is grown. No hurry to open. Drink 2028–2040. —E.C.B. abv: 14.8% Price: $125 95 Copia 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon (Paso Robles). Intense, inky and fruity…

94 Villa Creek 2021 Garnacha (Adelaida District). Dark cherry and strawberry candy aromas meet with lavish French-toast spices on the nose of this extremely satisfying Grenache. The palate is bold in viscosity but that’s balanced by a firm grip, framing black cherry and cola flavors that unfurl into the chalky, mineral-washed finish. —M.K. abv: 14.5% Price: $72 93 Copia 2021 The Story Grenache (Paso Robles Willow Creek District). Dark berry, minty chocolate and black plum aromas show on the nose of this bottling, which includes 8% Mourvèdre. Baked cherry flavors are balanced by thyme and a graphite minerality on the palate. —M.K. abv: 15.2% Price: $62 93 Lindquist Family 2021 Reeves Vineyard Grenache (San Luis Obispo Coast). Alluring aromas of cherry compote and rosewater candy meet with a core…

93 Hanna 2021 Reserve Malbec (Alexander Valley). The nose of this opaque, almost purple, wine shows aromas of lavish black cherry, raspberry and anise. Broad and textured, the palate is saturated with cassis, blueberry, coffee and licorice flavors, giving way to a long and marvelously balanced finish with plenty of acid to balance the richness of the tannin. Grill a steak and go to town! —T.R.C. abv: 14.4% Price: $64 92 Stolen Owl 2020 Malbec (Knights Valley). This Malbec is inky black, with just a touch of ruby red at the edge. Dark intensity carries onto the nose, where aromas of blackberry, cassis and tobacco dominate. While the palate is spicy and intense, exuding berry compote and meaty flavors, it’s also nicely balanced. This wine is approachable now but…