Innholdsfortegnelse for Best of 2023 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT John Capone TASTING DIRECTOR Anna-Christina Cabrales CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL Rachel Tepper Paley SENIOR EDITOR, PRINT Stacy Briscoe ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT Jacy Topps CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Nils Bernstein WEB PRODUCER Samantha Sette DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL VISUALS EDITOR Evan de Normandie DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena TASTING SENIOR EDITOR, TASTING Jim Gordon SENIOR TASTING COORDINATORS Craig Chamberlain, Cody Wexler ASST. TASTING COORDINATORS Augi Anagnostos, Russell Peborde, Dan Storm SOCIAL DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Marco Bruno VIDEO SUPERVISING VIDEO PRODUCER Braxton Parr VIDEO PRODUCER Rob Martin WRITERS AT LARGE WINE Michael Alberty, Danielle Callegari, Mike DeSimone, Matt Kettmann, Christina Pickard, Jeff Porter, Emily Saladino, Reggie…

The Wine Enthusiast Podcast, hosted by Jacy Topps, is your serving of drinks’ culture and the people who drive it. The podcast, which airs twice a month, features real conversations about beverage-related topics. Recently, we’ve been discussing whether there’s a right or wrong way to talk about wine, the perceived stuffiness in wine education and empowering the Latina community within the industry. Listen everywhere you get your podcasts or at wineenthusiast.com/podcast. “The two biggest problems in wine education are the terminology and its cultural perception.”Marie Cheslik Founder, Slik Wines EPISODE 152: Why Making Wine Education Less Stuffy Could Save the Industry “Being in wine tastings and masterclasses is already intimidating. But it’s way more intimidating when you don’t see people in the room that look like you.”Martha Cisneros Paja Founder,…

Recently, Champagne backtracked on its promise to reduce the use of herbicides, leaving consumers outraged, and thirsty for sparkling winemakers willing to walk their talk toward social and environmental responsibility. Luckily, a few biodynamic bubble makers already do just that, having eliminated the use of all herbicides, pesticides and other harmful chemicals and focusing on the health and longevity of their land. The result: vibrant, transparent sparklers, expressive of place and vintage. “What is the cost to the planet of growing on a solely productive and volume-based conception?”–Ton Mata, enologist, Recaredo Working in Harmony “We’ve always been dedicated to doing everything we could to work in harmony with the environment in which we’re growing our grapes,” says Jim Bernau, who cofounded Oregon’s biodynamic sparkling winery Domaine Willamette with wife Jan.…

“Nothing counteracts a chill like the cozy pleasure of a hot toddy,” says William Elliott, executive bar director of Brooklyn’s Maison Premiere. The New Orleans-style oyster bar rightly gets a lot of attention for its Martini and Sazerac “service,” which brings drink prep tableside—but its less-known Toddy Service is ideal for the chilly season. In fact, it’s only available at Maison from September through mid-April. Think of it as tea with boozy bells and whistles, providing fortifying comfort for one or a group. Hot water poured over spices in a tea strainer quickly infuses the drink, which can be made with a wide range of spirits and sweeteners. Finishing touches like aromatic bitters, absinthe or a quick squeeze of fresh lemon are optional; warming enjoyment is mandatory. TODDY SERVICE…

Is it just me or does life these days feel faster paced and more stressful than ever? The cadence in general seems to be accelerating and multitasking is the new norm. I suppose we can blame some of that on the pandemic lockdown, doomscrolling and 7-second viral videos (thanks, TikTok). All of a sudden, AI instantly creates content that used to take us humans hours or days. Pile on the daily grind and normal life events that we all endure, and that additional tension in your neck and shoulders is easily explained. Whatever it is that makes you feel as wound up as a yo-yo ready to be unleashed, there is always one activity that can help reduce those stress levels and bring you back to neutral: breathing. Sometimes we…

While John Sutton’s route to his current post as chief executive officer of The Wine Group (TWG), may be unconventional, he says it has ensured that he’s achieved the kind of well-rounded experience necessary to lead a company through challenging times, fierce economic headwinds and unprecedented environmental uncertainties. In the 1990s, Sutton served in the White House under President Clinton as special assistant to the counselor to the president and went on to work as an attorney, eventually working as outside counsel to The Wine Group as an attorney for the firm Howard, Rice, Nemerovski, Canady, Falk & Rabkin. Sutton officially joined TWG in 2007, rising through the ranks from his original post as general counsel to chief financial officer and now his current role as chief executive officer, a…

“I’m passionate about wine,” says Christian Wylie, managing director of Bodega Garzón. He recently returned from a presentation in ProWine São Paulo and was preparing for a trip to the U.S. the following week. Selling and educating people around the world about Tannat from a small wine region in South America is a challenging task. But Wylie is someone who embraces challenges. Bodega Garzón, located in Maldonado, Uruguay, holds a Leadership in Energy & Environmental Design certificate, offers luxury experiences to nearly 32,000 visitors annually and houses a restaurant owned by renowned chef Francis Mallmann. Wylie’s first visit to Uruguay was when he was 25 years old and playing rugby. Little did he know then how much this country would impact his personal and professional life. Born in Chile, the…

In 2000, the Chilean Cartoni family made a bet on the quality of the wines produced in Argentina and embarked on their first venture in the wine business. They bought a century-old winery in Maipú, Mendoza, hired an architectural firm to refurbish the building and added the latest winemaking technology. Being new to the wine business meant opportunities to be innovative, says CEO Alessandra Cartoni, who works alongside her brothers and father. Today, Antigal produces 2.5 million bottles per year and exports to 70 countries. The vast portfolio consists of a range of red and white wines from Uco Valley and Maipú, including single-vineyard selections. Antigal’s commitment to sustainability has led them to obtain several social and environmental certifications from organizations such as LETIS, Bodegas de Argentina and Sedex, among…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. STAFF EDITORS Anna-Christina Cabrales: Burgundy, Rhône Valley Jim Gordon: Napa, Sonoma Craig Chamberlain: Virginia Stacy Briscoe: Northern California & California AVA Jacy Topps: Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence, Vin de France WRITERS AT LARGE Michael Alberty: Oregon, Washington, Canada Danielle Callegari: Tuscany & Southern Italy Mike DeSimone: Spain, Croatia, Israel, Turkey, Lebanon, Armenia John Holl: Beer Matt Kettmann: Central & South Coast California Kara Newman: Spirits, RTD Christina Pickard: Australia, New Zealand, England, New York Jeff Porter: Piedmont & Northern Italy Emily Saladino: Greece, Georgia, Hungary Reggie Solomon: Beaujolais, Loire Valley Jesica Vargas: South America & South Africa Roger Voss: Portugal, France: Bordeaux, Champagne, Southwest & Other France…

RED WINES 99 Masseto 2020 (Toscana). A hedge maze of aromas greets the nose, from blackberries and black cherries to crushed stones and crumpled petals, before a gentle addition of vanilla and toasted coconut. Mixed berries with vanilla and cardamom soak the palate, followed by freshly tilled dirt and flinty stone notes, and finally an astringent, brooding spiciness on the back. Tannins are tightly stitched together across the palate like a tapestry, with acrobatic acid emphasizing a salt and pepper finish. A wine that speaks volumes without shouting. Vintus LLC. —D.C. abv: 15% Price: $860 98 Le Macchiole 2020 Messorio (Toscana). A nose like a private library with old books on the shelves, dried lavender and violets on the desk, and sunbeams and damp air from outside streaming through the…

ALL-SEASON STOUTS Winter isn’t the only time for stouts and porters. Many people have a seasonal mindset about stouts and porters. They believe that because the beers have a deep color and rich disposition, they are ideally consumed during the colder months. Undeniably, the dark brews land differently on the palate when the mercury is low, acting like a taste-bud comfort blanket. However, the truth is that stouts and porters are enjoyable any time of year. The most famous stout in the world is brewed by Diageo’s Guinness. This dry Irish stout served in nitro is as much fun to look at as it is to drink. Thanks to St. Patrick’s Day, the beer is most popular in late winter and early spring. Adventurous newcomers to the ale are often…

BUBBLES & BITES A welcome-glass of bubbles is de rigueur this time of year (and really, why not any time?), but that doesn’t mean the pairings must be overly fussy to be perfect. We took a stroll down the snack aisle, raided the pantry and put together a cheese board to create a spread of simple things you can throw on a table or pass around for your guests to nosh and still have time to enjoy their company. The basic rule is you don’t have to go overboard to find the perfect complements to Champagne. But go right ahead and dip those chips in caviar. GUACAMOLE (AND CHIPS) Zippy expressions of yellow stone fruit and quince beautifully enhance the creamy ripeness of avocado, while the wine’s bright acidity enhances…

Think of a perfectly cooked medium-rare filet mignon and you’d bristle at the thought of adding anything more than some good salt and freshly ground pepper (OK, maybe béarnaise sauce, but just a touch). Take that same piece of beef when raw, however, hand mince it as fine as possible, and it becomes a blank canvas for a five-star tartare. Tender and subtle—you could even call steak tartare a “light” dish—it begs for a variety of punchy, spicy ingredients to enhance its flavor without completely masking it (pro tip: For most steak tartare recipes, start with half the suggested quantities of accouterments and add more to taste). Don’t relegate steak tartare to a restaurant dish: As long as you trust your butcher and your knife skills, it’s quick and…

In 2023, we mark the 24th anniversary of Wine Enthusiast’s Annual Wine Star Awards, honoring the individuals and companies that have significantly contributed to the success of the wine and alcohol beverage world. In our ever-evolving industry, it’s important that we salute the dedicated professionals and progressive thinkers who have shown initiative and drive. From winemakers to wineries, sommeliers to CEOs, innovators and social visionaries, the honorees you’ll learn about on these pages have balanced business acumen with action, making steps to improve the future of wine and alcohol beverage. Nominated by members of our global sales, events, marketing and editorial divisions with final selections made by our executive publishing team, winners will be honored at our black-tie gala in February 2024. For details on the event and further insight…

Carolyn Wente’s early career running the family winery with her two brothers was clouded by death, taxes, and earthquake and fierce competition. But she rose to the challenge, something that she’s done time and again over her 40-year career with the Livermore-based winery Carl H. Wente founded in 1883. Today, the Wente operation is the longest continuously family-owned and operated winery in the U.S. In the early 1980s, Carolyn was among the first women to take a leading ownership and management role at a major California winery. Today, she is the first woman recognized with an American Wine Legend Wine Star Award. Carolyn was instrumental in reshaping the family business, which at the time was respected for viticultural and enological leadership but was perceived as stodgy in the marketplace. Beginning…

“I think a sommelier is and should be constantly trying to be the most hardworking, humble, dedicated, and knowledgeable person on the floor,” says Jhonel Faelnar, beverage director for New York restaurant group NA:EUN Hospitality, which includes the two-Michelin-star Atomix, as well as Atoboy, Naro and Seoul Salon. “A sommelier’s first responsibility is to add to the guest experience and everything leading up to that, from the routine tasks of the day to the complex guest interactions that are often undervalued in their elegance and brevity.” Faelnar started his career in fashion and retail management, first in his hometown of Manila, and later in Osaka, Japan. His travels led to an interest in food and hospitality, and he enrolled in the International Culinary Center’s intensive sommelier program in 2013 upon…

CHARDONNAY 96 Patz & Hall 2021 Bootlegger’s Hill Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Lush, ripe Bosc pears and golden apples dominate the palate of this full-bodied but well-balanced wine made from the Hyde-Wente clone. A streak of lemony acidity lifts the rich flavors through a lingering finish. The wine has all the opulence and vivid fruit one could want, nicely accented by light oak spices and a touch of butter. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 95 Lombardi 2020 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Creaminess in the texture and deftly layered flavors give this extraordinary wine an almost irresistible attraction. So light but so rich at the same time, the wine offers vanilla, butter, poached pears and hints of caramel and toast, while the finish is delicious and lingering. Great for a special occasion.…

It is rumored that before King Louis XVI lost his head, he told the crowd, “I’m going to miss that biscuit.” My head filled with a crunch that sounded like bears eating potato chips as I bit down on the rock-hard pink biscuit. The flavor, a wisp of unsweetened Kool-Aid powder, didn’t help. I considered using the remainder of the three-inch rectangle topped with powdered sugar to level the wobbly wine bar table. Sensing my befuddlement, a passing waiter blurted out for everyone to hear, “You’re supposed to dip them in your Champagne.” I dutifully submerged the pink object into my bubbles. The biscuit’s tiny air pockets soaked up the Champagne to create a pink pillow filled with red berry flavors. Then it hit me. I exclaimed, “Come quickly; I…

Once relegated to car races and celebratory occasions, sparkling wine has become an everyday drink. It’s the fastest growing category in the U.S., with double digit growth recorded in 2021. Winemakers across North America have taken notice. While the U.S. still imports almost half of all the bubbles consumed stateside, domestic production is catching up. And few U.S. regions better suit the style than New York State. The third largest wine-producing region in America boasts a cool climate perfect for high-acid, early-ripening sparkling varieties. New York also has a rich bubbly history that dates back further than almost any other commercial wine in America. In the mid-1800s, one Finger Lakes winery was even nicknamed the “Rheims of America” after the famed Champagne capital. Today, New York bubbles are making a…

When Joseph E. Gallo took the reins of the E. & J. Gallo Winery in 2000, he had already been in the family business for decades. But he had big shoes to fill, those of his father, Ernest Gallo, who cofounded the Modesto, California-based winery with his brother Julio Gallo in 1933. During his 20-year stint as president and chief executive officer, Joseph E. Gallo calmly charted a course for the world’s largest wine producer through waters crowded with competitors, constantly discovering opportunities for growth and identifying the top talent within the company and among family members to pursue the company’s growth strategies. Under his leadership, the privately held wine company welcomed a third and fourth generation of Gallo family members into the business and virtually reinvented it in the…

The aesthetic qualities of Planeta wines capture the appealing essence of Sicily. Despite occupying a relatively small corner of the winemaking world, these wines have found resonance with a broad international audience. As Planeta’s CEO and chief winemaker, Alessio Planeta sees this as a harmonious and intricate synergy that fuels his work. Each bottle that a customer savors becomes a bridge between the island and wine enthusiasts worldwide. Alessio eloquently expresses this concept: “The extraordinary thing about all of this is to imagine how from little Menfi, from this little area so far from the world—so isolated until a few decades ago—one could, thanks to wine, go around the world and bring a message which is that of the quality of the wines we make, but which is also that…

“When I first started studying wine, I only knew of two Black sommeliers—Andre [Hueston] Mack and Nadine Brown. It was very rare at the time to see myself in the industry,” says Carlton McCoy of becoming a master sommelier in 2013. “Had I an organization then that could have given me a sense of community and guidance, it would’ve made the road a lot easier.” This difficulty of starting his wine journey, coupled with participating in the Careers Through Culinary Arts Program (C-CAP), is ultimately what inspired McCoy to cofound The Roots Fund with Ikimi Dubose-Woodson and Tahiirah Habibi in 2020. “From the beginning, we knew we had to address the lack of wine education and career opportunities available to communities of color,” he says. The hard work of the…

One of the things Sarah Pierre, proprietor of 3 Parks Wine Shop in Atlanta, learned from years in the restaurant industry was never to say no to a customer. If that meant sending someone to run down the street to buy theater tickets so a dallying diner wouldn’t miss their show or running to the supermarket to grab an ingredient that would delight a guest, Pierre did it. When she opened 3 Parks in 2013 with a determination to do things differently, she brought this ethos. So, she always said yes to her customers and found ways to surprise and delight. She’ll note when a regular customer has a baby and then, years later when those birth vintages came into the shop, she’d let them know she’d put aside a…

This Buying Guide wraps up 12 months of blind tasting for our team of 18 reviewers, and it is a big one. As one of the 18, I had an eye-opening year reviewing Napa and Sonoma wines, including 532 in preparation for this issue alone. My learnings were many while conducting blind tastings two to three times per week, writing the reviews, meeting with winemakers, walking vineyards and writing articles. The reviews in these pages reflect my continuing education in wine after several decades of fascinating “study” and my best efforts to keep you apprised of what to buy. So what should you buy now? My usuals—Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County Pinot Noir and Chardonnay—but also some unusuals. The 2020 vintage was a smoky one in this part of…

BAROLO 98 Borgogno 2019 Cannubi (Barolo). From the first sniff, the significance of this wine is evident. Dark cherry, rosebud, clove and savory herbs create an enveloping aroma. The polished and pure palate offers generosity, yet yearns for further development. Presently, flavors of mixed wild berries, licorice, tobacco and chalk notes shine on the palate. Drink 2025–2050. Ethica Wines. Cellar Selection. —J.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $190 97 Ceretto 2019 Prapo’ (Barolo). With aromas of dark cherry, preserved raspberries, clove and dried roses, this wine wafts from the glass with grace and class. It offers a firm and well-structured palate, displaying solid tannins and energetic acidity that lifts the notes of mixed wild berries, tobacco and tea, finishing with a chalky minerality. Trinchero Family Estates. Editors’ Choice. —J.P. abv: 14.5% Price:…

SINGLE MINDED Within limits, single malt Scotch finds room to innovate. When it comes to luxury bottles, single malt Scotch—that is, whisky made in Scotland by a single distillery, using only malted barley, yeast and water—is often top of the list. While some regard old, rare or expensive single malts as status symbols, know that doesn’t always have to be the case. Many experts suggest that Scotch is best between 12 to 25 years old. After that, many become overly woody and flavor compounds tend to fade. (That said, some older bottles hold up better than others.) And some single malts offer excellent value. In fact, we’ve designated 16 bottles priced $60 or under as Best Buys. Some single malts offer excellent value … We’ve designated 16 bottles priced $60…