Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2023 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT John Capone TASTING DIRECTOR Anna-Christina Cabrales CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL Rachel Tepper Paley SENIOR EDITOR, PRINT Stacy Briscoe SENIOR EDITOR, DIGITAL Arielle Weg ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT Jacy Topps CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Nils Bernstein WEB PRODUCER Samantha Sette DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL VISUALS EDITOR Evan de Normandie DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena TASTING SENIOR EDITOR, TASTING Jim Gordon SENIOR TASTING COORDINATORS Craig Chamberlain, Cody Wexler ASST. TASTING COORDINATORS Augi Anagnostos, Russell Peborde, Dan Storm SOCIAL DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Marco Bruno VIDEO SUPERVISING VIDEO PRODUCER Braxton Parr VIDEO PRODUCER Rob Martin WRITERS AT LARGE WINE Michael Alberty, Danielle Callegari, Mike DeSimone, Matt Kettmann, Christina…

Tune In The Wine Enthusiast Podcast, hosted by Jacy Topps, is your serving of drinks’ culture and the people who drive it. The podcast, which airs twice a month, features real conversations about beverage-related topics. Recently, we’ve been discussing the sober-curious movement, what makes a great Italian wine bar and under-the-radar wines from Portugal. Listen everywhere you get your podcasts or at wineenthusiast.com/podcast. “I’ve had a lot of people, from all over the world, come into my wine bar and actually teach me a few things about wine, and I welcomed that.”Camilla Bellini Owner, Bellini Enoteca EPISODE 146: What Makes a Great Italian Wine Bar? “I think there’s more opportunity to promote a healthier way of drinking. And that doesn’t mean eradicating alcohol, but just encouraging consumers to try new…

ALIGOTÉ’S TIME TO SHINE There’s a blossoming appreciation for this native variety’s ability to produce terroir-focused wine. Aligoté, often incorrectly regarded as the subtler iteration of Chardonnay, is a cross of Pinot Noir and the more obscure Gouais Blanc. With its historical roots tracing back to the 17th century, this variety flourished throughout Burgundy, including in the famed slopes of Corton, Musigny (blanc) and Chambertin. Despite being more recently uprooted in favor of Chardonnay, Aligoté once boasted over 400 clones, categorized into two primary variations: Aligoté Verte, distinguished by its green hue and herbaceousness, and Aligoté Doré, radiantly golden in hue with an array of ripe citrus and fennel nuances. These variants were often co-planted, making their differentiation challenging, particularly because if Verte is managed at lower yields and fully…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. STAFF EDITORS Anna-Christina Cabrales: Burgundy, Rhône Valley Jim Gordon: Napa, Sonoma Craig Chamberlain: Virginia Stacy Briscoe: Northern California & California AVA Jacy Topps: Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence, Vin de France WRITERS AT LARGE Michael Alberty: Oregon, Washington, Canada Danielle Callegari: Tuscany & Southern Italy Mike DeSimone: Spain, Croatia, Israel, Turkey, Lebanon, Armenia, Hungary John Holl: Beer, Hard Seltzer Matt Kettmann: Central & South Coast California Kara Newman: Spirits, RTD Christina Pickard: Australia, New Zealand, England, New York Jeff Porter: Piedmont & Northern Italy Emily Saladino: Greece, Georgia Reggie Solomon: Beaujolais, Loire Valley Jesica Vargas: South America & South Africa Roger Voss: Portugal, France: Bordeaux, Champagne, Southwest &…

WHITE WINES ALENTEJO 91 Quinta da Fonte Souto 2021 (Alentejo). The wine, from the northern Alentejo, is full of ripe white fruits and rich. It has a vibrant white fruit character that gives the wine weight as well as fine acidity. Produced by the Symington family, the wine is ready to drink. Premium Port Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $29 90 Quinta do Paral 2020 Superior (Alentejo). Wood aging has brought richness and density to this rounded wine. It is spicy, contrasting with apples and kiwi fruit flavors, freshened with acidity. Drink this wine now. Kindred Vines. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 89 Quinta do Paral 2018 (Alentejo). This mature, wood-aged wine is ripe with smooth fruits. Its spicy character is at the center of this rich wine, with…

RED WINES 96 Agricola Querciabella 2019 Camartina (Toscana). The nose starts off spicy and meaty, full of cracked pepper and gunpowder, before turning herbal, with notes of coriander seed, fennel and cherry. The cherry shines on the palate, above earthy and bitter undertones, and the fennel returns for the finish. Firm but lithe tannins and confident acidity are present, making for an accomplished dancer. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —D.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $179 95 Tenuta Luce 2020 Luce Della Vite (Toscana). The nose starts off wild and herbal, expanding into the scents of a classroom, full of pencils and erasers and new leather bags, with a whiff of vanilla-cherry cola. The spiced, densely fruity palate shifts to the indulgence of a slice of cake soaked in rum. Vintus LLC.…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 91 Altocedro 2020 La Consulta Vineyards Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Uco Valley). There is a subtle perfume of plum and bell pepper on the nose of this balanced Cabernet Sauvignon. Aged for 18 months in oak barrels, it feels fresh, with smooth tannins and savory notes of thyme, plum and chocolate. Vino Del Sol. —J.V. abv: 14.9% Price: $30 91 Mascota 2020 Unánime Signature Cabernet Sauvignon (Mendoza). Green bell pepper, plum and black cherry aromas are dusted with cinnamon on the nose of this Cabernet. Velvety tannins support prominent notes of vanilla and other baking spices, as bright black and red-fruit flavors enrich the palate. The finish shows light notes of herbs. Deutsch Family Wine and Spirits. —J.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $40 90 Casarena 2020 Owen Single Vineyard Agrelo…

I’ve recently moved into a new home. As the congratulations and cardboard boxes disappeared in unison, I was left with the realization that I was fully burned out on spending. I imagine it’s a sentiment many of you have shared after a big move. However, I still needed more stuff. What’s a gal to do? That’s when my quest began. I started scouring the internet for all the alternative ways of procuring more “stuff” for less. Between estate sales, yard sales and vintage finds, I found so much joy in uncovering treasures for my home. I couldn’t stop talking about it to anyone who would listen. I became obsessed. I had tapped into one of life’s greatest pleasures—the art of getting more value for your dollar. I think we’ve…

Washed Out Before Don Lee at NYC’s PDT cocktail bar put bacon fat in bourbon in an Old Fashioned in 2007, nobody had heard of fat-washed cocktails. It’s one of those techniques that seems like it’s been around much longer than it actually has. Perhaps because, at its core, it’s centuries old: Parisian perfumiers have been practicing it since the days of Louis XIV. Fat is soluble in alcohol; by allowing it to infuse with alcohol (and, in the case that you are going to drink it and not spray it behind your ears, a liquor) the aromatics and flavors of said fat are conveyed by its host. Whether that is fat from peanut or pig matters not. Some drinkers, whether for dietary reasons or simple revulsion at the idea…

Tequila fans, get ready to hear a new refrain: “additive-free.” One of the biggest controversies in the tequila world right now revolves around sweetening syrups, caramel color, glycerin and oak extracts intended to make a tequila seem smoother, older or tastier. Tequila advocates refer to the “1% rule:” namely, by Mexico’s law, producers are allowed to use up to 1% of these additives without disclosing it. But according to tequila database Tequila Matchmaker, around 70% of all tequila includes undisclosed additives, ranging from vanilla extract to stevia. “It’s a transparency issue,” explains Grover Sanschagrin, cofounder of Tequila Matchmaker. “The common thread seems to be people feeling deceived.” Sanschagrin, along with cofounder Scarlet Sanschagrin, founded the Additive-Free Program in 2020. From their home base in Guadalajara, Mexico, they tour distilleries and…

You might know that Best Buys refers to the top-rated wines we reviewed under $20. But don’t forget there is value to be found in Hidden Gem and Editors’ Choice designated wines. These are some of those wines we reviewed for this issue that we liked best. Turn to page 107 to find full reviews and more wines rated. Rip out this page and stuff it in your pocket for when you go to the wine shop next or just search wineenthusiast.com/ratings. FOR THIS ISSUE • WE blind tasted more than 2,500 wines that scored 80 or higher • 1,667 of them were rated 90 points or higher • 80 wines from Northern Spain scored 90 points or higher • With an average price point of $39, wines from this…

Some foragers head off into forests, meadows and mountains to pick wild edibles. But if you’re looking for forager Danny Childs, also beverage director for The Farm & Fisherman Tavern, don’t forget to check the nearest parking lot. “In the parking lot behind the restaurant I can get crabapples,” he says, describing the late-autumn bounty of Southern New Jersey, where F&F is located. “We have staghorn sumac growing there, and serviceberries. We pick juniper from there all winter long.” Working in a densely populated suburban area just outside Philadelphia, “there’s not many meadows around,” he acknowledges. “But I’m always on the lookout. I can almost always find mulberry, sumac, walnuts, oak trees and acorns and honeysuckle—all these things packed with flavor, just waiting to be used.” “What a lot of…

RED WINES CAHORS 94 Château du Cèdre 2019 GC (Cahors). This is a powerful wine from its balanced alcohol and suave tannins. The wine’s ripeness is finely tuned, black fruits are set against acidity. This impressive wine should be ready from 2025. Organic. Martine’s Wines. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $153 94 Château Lagrézette 2019 Cuvée Marguerite Massaut (Cahors). An impressively rich wine, the tannins are dense, showcasing the black fruits. The structured wine comes from the third terrace of vines above the River Lot. The wine has enormous potential and should be drunk from 2026. David Milligan Selections. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $70 94 Château Lagrézette 2018 Paragon (Cahors). A powerful, dense wine, this is impressive. It has structure and a massive texture that emanates from the tannins…

WHITE WINES VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE 92 Bisol NV Jeio Made with Organically Grown Grapes Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). Certified organic, this Prosecco brings lifted aromas of yellow peach, green apple and citrus zest with subtle hints of crushed stones. The palate pops with superfine bubbles that highlight notes of Comice pear and apricot with a kiss of sea salt on the finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.P. abv: 11.5% Price: $25 92 Mionetto NV Brut (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). As classic an Italian wine as there is this wine brightens every glass. Aromas of fresh McIntosh apples combined with yellow peach and wildflowers swirl from the glass. It’s crisp and refreshing on the palate with notes of pear and crushed rocks all wrapped up by lively and vivacious bubbles. Freixenet Mionetto USA.…

MALVAZIJA 94 Saints Hills 2022 Mala Nevina Malvazija (Istria). Pale yellow in the glass, this wine has a bouquet of caramelized pineapple, orange blossom and a hint of butterscotch. Pineapple transitions to the palate, where it is joined by vanilla bean and white peach flavors with a hint of honeysuckle set into a well-textured wine with touches of white chocolate and lemon zest on the finish. Massanois Imports. —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $27 90 Crvik 2019 Blasius Dubrovačka Malvazija (Dalmatia). This amber-colored wine offers aromas of apricot, slivered almond and petrol. It is full textured, is almost gritty and has nectarine, apricot, charcuterie, hazelnut and orange zest flavors. A whiff of smoke and touches of bright citrus fruit are carried over the finish line. Croatian Premium Wine Imports, Inc. —M.D.…

CHENIN BLANC 94 Sadie Family 2021 Skurfberg Chenin Blanc (Citrusdal Mountain). Gentle aromas of herbs meet light notes of ginger on the delicate nose. The mineral-textured palate is more generous. It has depth and layers of lime, peach, apricot, ginger spice, linden tea and honey that sing in tune, alongside lively acidity. Drink now–2031. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.V. abv: 14% Price: $170 92 Alheit 2021 Hareafter Here Chenin Blanc (Western Cape). Delicate citrus aromas take the lead, supported by herbs and vanilla bean. Flavors of baking spices are integrated and persistent on the medium-weight palate. It has layers of grapefruit, lime and hints of mint lifted by excellent acidity. This is a delicious, structured Chenin Blanc. Broadbent Selections, Inc. Editors’ Choice. —J.V. abv: 13% Price: $41 91 Wolf…

For margaritas, ranch waters and other tequila-based cocktails, blanco tequila is the clear choice for mixing. Whether called blanco, plata or silver, it tends to be crisp and clear, with nuanced cooked agave and lively peppery tones. To many, blanco is the purest expression of Mexico’s signature agave spirit. Typically unaged, or rested up to 60 days in steel tanks, the tequila can’t hide behind the aromas and flavors that barrel-aging can provide. To many, blanco is the purest expression of Mexico’s signature agave spirit. Thanks to celebrity-driven labels and enthusiasm for agave-based cocktails, tequila sales continue to skyrocket. According to data released by IWSR Drinks Market Analysis, U.S. tequila sales by volume surged 12% in 2022, handily beating both whiskey (+3%) and vodka (+1%) in the same period. “Over…

On the cold nights when, huddled around the blazing fire pit and still bundled up against the elements, I want to have a beer, I’ll pour something malty and strong into a stein and reach for my poker. Officially, the company that manufactures and markets the poker calls it a “beer caramelizer.” And rather than the traditional fireplace versions, the tip is flat, not pointed. Plunge it into the fire, let it get glowing red, and carefully remove and plunge into your beer of choice. The heat takes residual sugars in the beer and creates a foamy, caramelized flavor and enhances its mouthfeel. With roots in Germany, where it’s called “beer spiking,” hot pokers have been used in beer in America since at least the 1700s but the practice…

SURE, YOU’RE BUYING THE OCCASIONAL Meyer lemon, blood orange or clementine and visions of sour orange and calamansi may dance in your head, but for overall complexity, there’s a reason yuzu has hung on to its culinary currency. It’s associated with Japanese cuisine (and Japanese markets are where you’re most likely to find it, either bottled or fresh, or blended with red or green chili peppers to make the condiment yuzu kosho), but it’s widely used in Korean cuisine as well. It’s also cultivated in the U.S., where imports of the fresh fruit are banned. Here’s how to make the most of its singular combination of flavors. ♦ CITRUS Yuzu is a kind of pan-citrus, whose flavor touches on aspects of them all. Pairing with citrus is tricky—often a…

If you already love an Old Fashioned made with whiskey, it’s time to give this rum-based version a try. Although the drink is stiff rather than sweet, with aged rum providing plenty of backbone, chocolaty accents give the perception of dessert-like decadence. At Everdene, a scene-y restaurant within NYC’s new Virgin Hotel, where all the signature cocktails namecheck song titles (such as this 1989 Janet Jackson hit), this drink is presented with a trio of garnishes, for maximum aromatics and visual appeal. For a casual drink at home, we might suggest paring that back to just one—choose between a swath of grapefruit peel for a fresh, lively scent or a dusting of grated chocolate for more richness and depth. Either way, you can’t go wrong with a rum Old…

Earlier this year at a dinner with many witnesses, I pledged to do something more to help fight climate change. I blame the Napa RISE organizers and the dinner hosts, Jean-Charles Boisset and Gina Gallo, for this moment of clarity. What I did afterward was start a personal research project. It’s on an aspect of wine production that has been identified as the biggest target wineries can aim at to reduce their carbon footprints and thus reduce the amount of climate-changing gases their operations are responsible for releasing into our ever-warmer atmosphere. I began weighing all the 750 ml. bottles of wine that Napa and Sonoma wineries sent me to review in blind tastings once they were empty. What I’ve found so far is dramatic. Having weighed 709 wines since…

Jacy Topps, assistant print editor, reviews French wines from Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence and Vin de France. Roger Voss, writer at large, reviews the wines of Portugal and the French regions of Bordeaux, Champagne, Southwest France and other France. Jacy Topps: Lower-priced wines can sometimes be polarizing in the industry. And while there are several factors that can determine the price of a bottle, the price doesn’t necessarily have to dictate the quality and complexity of the wine. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with expensive cellar-worthy fine wine. However, a delicious bottle of wine doesn’t have to break your budget. We’re lucky our regions offer a great selection of both high-end and affordable bottles. Roger Voss: I agree. In the regions I review, I discover many great wines that are certainly of good…

WHITE WINES PICPOUL DE PINET 90 Les Vignobles Foncalieu 2020 Réserve Delsol (Picpoul de Pinet). Notes of honeydew and white peach open this white wine. The palate is light, driven by racy acidity that leads into a lengthy finish. Scoperta Importing Co. Inc. Best Buy. —J.T. abv: 13% Price: $15 88 Jadix 2022 (Picpoul de Pinet). Enticing aromas of citrus fruit, melon and crushed slate are displayed on the nose of this easy-drinking white. The palate is light with a soft flavor of green apple, lemon and ample minerality. Aquitaine Wine Company. —J.T. abv: 12% Price: $29 88 Les Vignobles Foncalieu 2022 Réserve DelSol (Picpoul de Pinet). Lovely notes of honeydew melon and apple open this refreshing wine. The palate is tart with flavors of green apple and lemon peel.…

RED WINES LANGHE 93 Colombo 2021 (Langhe). This serious example of Nebbiolo hits the mark. Aromas of macerated cherry and raspberry combine with wild mint, dried orange peel, savory spice and wild herbs on the nose. It’s giving on the palate with a core of red-berried fruit that is balanced by savory elements that finally give way to a mineral and earthy note that lingers on the finish. Drink now–2035. Artisanal Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —J.P. abv: 14.5% Price: $37 93 Vietti 2020 Perbacco (Langhe). The 2020 Perbacco is lights out! From the moment the cork is pulled you will be smitten with aromas of cherry, wild herbs, dried rose and anise enticing you to the glass. The wine delivers fresh and clear red-berried fruit snuggled with sweet and savory spices…

CHARDONNAY 99 Tor 2021 Cuvée Susan Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (Carneros). This quietly lavish wine made in a tiny quantity is one to take time with and savor among good friends. Finely detailed aromas of poached pears, vanilla and butter lead to a palate impression that’s quiet at first and then builds into layers of marzipan, golden apples, butter and macadamia nuts. Everything is backed by subtle, silky acidity that keeps it fresh through a long, lingering finish. Best through 2035. Cellar Selection. —J.G. abv: 14.8% Price: $95 97 Rhys 2021 Alpine Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Cruz Mountains). The texture and length on this bottling, and the fact that it retains as much many days after being opened, is jaw-dropping. The nose begins with soft yet alluring butter, nut, apricot and wet…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 98 Clos Henri 2020 Clay Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). A special cuvée launched in honor of this top biodynamic winery’s 20-year anniversary, Clay is, as the name suggests, from vines with feet in the estate’s Broadbridge clay soils. Native yeast, lees and old Austrian oak barrels all contribute to this pristine wine, which is round, elegant and poised. With aeration, it opens to a multifaceted nose of tangerine, white peach, orchard blossom and grass, shaded in salted cream. The palate is full-figured, with depth and weight but also freshness, length, a saline spine and a gorgeous chalky texture. There’s a level of complexity here rarely seen in Marlborough that, frankly, raises the bar for the whole region. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 96…