Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2023 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT John Capone TASTING DIRECTOR Anna-Christina Cabrales CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL Rachel Tepper Paley SENIOR EDITOR, PRINT Stacy Briscoe SENIOR EDITOR, DIGITAL Arielle Weg DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT Jacy Topps CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Nils Bernstein WEB PRODUCER Samantha Sette DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL VISUALS EDITOR Evan de Normandie DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena TASTING SENIOR EDITOR, TASTING Jim Gordon SENIOR TASTING COORDINATORS Craig Chamberlain, Cody Wexler ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Augi Anagnostos, Russell Peborde, Dan Storm SOCIAL DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Marco Bruno VIDEO SUPERVISING VIDEO PRODUCER Braxton Parr VIDEO PRODUCER Rob Martin WRITERS AT LARGE WINE Michael Alberty, Danielle Callegari, Mike DeSimone, Matt Kettmann, Christina Pickard,…

BACK TO THE FUTURE Distance breeds nostalgia. Looking back into the coolers and at liquor-store shelves during the totally tubular decade, you can find the groundwork for some of the innovation that would alter the beverage landscape for years to come—from adding fruit flavors to everything to canning cocktails. Let’s jump in the DeLorean, hit 88 m.p.h. and sample these blasts from the past to answer the question, “Where are they now?” 1 ABSOLUT VODKA WHO DRANK IT: DARN NEAR EVERYBODY Thanks to memorable advertising, the Swedish vodka went mainstream in the 1980s giving the spirit artistic cache. It also helped introduce the concept of flavored vodka, notably in 1986 with Peppar, a spicy version and runaway success. Where is it today? Still around, placed among the endless stream of vodka…

It doesn’t matter that Norton isn’t grown in the world’s fanciest regions or that its heritage is more than a little suspect. To Andrew Meggitt, who has been making wine with the red grape for 20-some years, Norton is about as American as grapes get: “That’s what sells it,” says Meggitt, the excursive winemaker at Missouri’s St. James Winery, “that it is the quintessential American grape. It’s unique. It’s different. If wine drinkers are looking for a variety that looks and tastes like nothing else, then that’s Norton.” Norton is neither vinifera nor a Franco-American or modern hybrid. Rather, it is its own species, aestivalis. As near as anyone can tell, says Meggitt, Norton was an accident, a cross in the wild that was first discovered on the East…

Rip out this page and stuff it in your pocket for when you go to the wine shop next, or just search winemag.com/ratings. Top 5 Best Buys These wines represent the highest value wines we rated for this issue. 95 Kumeu River 2021 Estate Chardonnay (Kumeu) price: $22 abv: 13.5% 94 González Byass NV Tio Pepe Fino en Rama (Jerez) Price:$18/375ml abv: 15% 93 Bodegas Muriel 2017 Viña Eguía Reserva (Rioja) price: $19 abv: 13.5% 92 Silverado 2021 Block Blend Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley) price: $20 abv: 13.5% 92 Gérard Bertrand 2020 Héritage Kosmos 888 (Languedoc) price: $19 abv: 14.5% Top 5 Hidden Gems Our reviewers think you absolutely should try these atypical wines. 94 Outward 2021 Massa Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Carmel Valley) price: $38 abv: 13% 94 Donkey &…

WHITE WINES RIOJA 92 Bodegas Lozano 2020 Viñas Viejas (Rioja). This light-yellow-colored wine has a bouquet of grapefruit and yellow cherry, with a hint of fennel pollen. Flavors of white peach, mango, roasted fennel bulb and dried sage wend their way to a soft, floral finish. W. Direct. —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $60 92 CVNE 2019 Reserva (Rioja). Medium straw to the eye, this wine has aromas of green apple and Bartlett pear. It is bright on the palate, with flavors of pineapple, lemon curd, orange blossom and a hint of vanilla, culminating in an orange zest finish. Donna White Communications. —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $28 92 Lopez de Haro 2012 Gran Reserva Blanco (Rioja). This amber-colored wine has a nose of honeydew melon, Turkish delight, toasted almond and eucalyptus.…

Recollections of the 1980s conjure a sense of unbridled joy that’s very specific to that decade’s style. Neon signs, fluffy hair, white blazers and, of course, sunglasses at night. It was a time that celebrated pleasure and fun in an unabashed fashion. It makes sense that a decade pulsing with so much fluorescent potential would begin trends that defined an entire generation. The decade was pivotal politically, culturally, and, all the while, the American wine palate was growing out of its infancy. It was that general sense of pent-up potential and innovation that drove my parents to create Wine Enthusiast magazine 35 years ago in 1988. When we look back three and a half decades, I’m so grateful for the time period that birthed this magazine. It gives us…

There’s a running joke that bartenders hate making Espresso Martinis—the 1980s’ juggernaut drink that’s having a revival. Yet, Harrison Ginsberg, bar director at NYC’s sky-high Overstory bar, says he loves a well-made Espresso Martini (and not ironically, either). While his team can’t pull fresh shots of espresso (the 64th-floor bar has a tiny footprint and no espresso machine), he designed an alternative: the Matcha Shakerato. Instead of fresh espresso, he uses a combination of oat milk and matcha powder to mimic the texture, viscosity and weight of a freshly pulled shot. At the bar, a house-made green tea liqueur adds sweetness and complexity; this home-friendly version offers a similar flavor with cooled green tea and honey syrup. Vodka remains the base spirit. Ginsberg prefers Haku, a Japanese brand distilled…

RAISED IN THE ’80S Wine culture has come a long way since I was coming of age in the ’80s and ’90s. The focus was on tradition. While there’s something to be said about passing down established methods, customs and beliefs, I wish I learned sooner that wine could be more fun. I always felt wine had too many rules. You must drink white wine with white fish and red wine with red meat. You had to drink certain wines out of specific glasses. You only paired Italian wine with Italian food and French wine with French food. Wine descriptions for a variety had to be the same. And don’t even think about putting ice cubes in your wine. The list of rules can go on forever. I wish…

Tucked underneath the switchbacks and stairways that separate Bairro Alto from Lisbon’s historic core, where the sound of steel on steel sparks the air outside Rossio Station, a line begins to form outside a stone cavern with enough room for two purveyors and two customers. Inside, glass bottles filled with ruby-colored liquid called ginjinha spread from wall to wall. As the evening light retreats, the sour cherry liqueur pours into hundreds of shot glasses and grooved chocolate cups that look like the paper surrounding miniature Reese’s. Made from aguardente (an overarching term for “burning water” applied to a multitude of distillates), Morello cherries, sugar and a secret mix of spices (often including clove and cinnamon); ginjinha—or ginja as the locals call it—traces its history back to Galician friar Francisco…

Advertisers in the 1980s had a very loose interpretation of who could be a spokesperson. Many were not even people: Domino’s Pizza’s the Noid, Joe Camel, 7-Up’s Cool Spot the Red Dot (who was just a dot with sunglasses) and the California Raisins. These characters put anthropomorphized faces on mega-corporations. Perhaps none resonated more or for longer than Spuds MacKenzie, the official party dog of Bud Light. During 30-second TV spots he was seen lounging on a beach chair, diving into a pool or playing drums at a backyard barbeque. Just living the life, accompanied by a custom soundtrack and narration by Robin Leach, host of Lifestyles of the Rich and Famous, while Anheuser-Busch rode these riches all the way to the bank. Spuds appeared on T-shirts, hats, lighters, koozies,…

The physical embodiment of the figurative Iron Curtain, the Berlin Wall stood as the border between East and West in post-World War II Europe, prohibiting free movement in the German Capital. However, authorities of East Germany, then known as the German Democratic Republic (G.D.R.), had a different notion, referring to the concrete barrier as the Anti-Fascist Protection Rampart that protected citizens from fascist influences of the West and prevention of free will. In reality, it did quite the opposite. More than just steel and concrete—it was the division between two worlds, evident in the stark contrasts on either side up until 1989. On the west side, colorful urban art and graffiti adorned the wall. Whereas on the monotone gray east side, void of creativity and feeling, armed soldiers stood like…

Mike DeSimone reviews wines from Spain, Croatia and Eastern Europe; Jacy Topps reviews the wines of French regions Languedoc-Roussillon and Vin de France. Mike DeSimone: This month my selections from Spain included classic red and white Rioja and red Ribera del Duero wines, bold Garnacha from Valencia, and a great selection of Sherry in a broad range of styles. My Croatian coastal roundup features Plavac Mali, a full-bodied red, and Posip, a crisp white, from Dalmatia as well as Teran, an earthy red, and an elegant, slightly floral white Malvazija Istarska from Istria. And how could I forget Cava from the coast near Barcelona? How was your month in the tasting room, Jacy? Jacy Topps: I believe Languedoc-Roussillon is the French region many are missing out on. It’s one of…

WHITE WINES 94 Saints Hills 2021 Le Chiffre Chardonnay (Istria). Straw colored in the glass, this wine has a bouquet of nectarine, lemon zest and almond blossom. It is full in the mouth, with bold acidity and flavors of pineapple, lemon tart, vanilla and peach. A bright note of grapefruit washes over the finish. Massanois Imports. —M.D. abv: 13% Price: $55 93 Saints Hills 2021 Frenchie Bordeaux-style White Blend (Istria). A Bordeaux-style blend of Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon, this wine has a nose of Meyer lemon, freshly chopped parsley and Granny Smith apple. It is round in the mouth, with a nice note of eucalyptus mingling with flavors of lemon-lime, green apple and a tiny hint of dried Mediterranean herbs that fade into a smooth finish. Massanois Imports. —M.D. abv:…

DOURO 95 Casa Ferreirinha 2019 Quinta da Leda (Douro). From one of the top vineyards in the Douro Superior region, the wine is impressive. Its balance and richness are matched by the wine’s concentration. Powerful black fruits and a dense texture promise further aging. Drink this rich wine from 2025. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $80 93 Maçanita Vinhos 2019 Letra A Touriga Nacional (Douro). The wine’s name refers to the classification of Douro vineyards with A being the top of the list. So this wine comes from a fine vineyard and that shows in its richness and power. The black fruits and tannins need more time, so drink the wine from 2026. Olé & Obrigado Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $56 93 Quinta dos Avidagos 2018…

CHARDONNAY 96 Samuel Louis Smith 2021 Spear Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Everyone needs to get fired up by brisk, racy and mineral-driven Chardonnays like these—they’re the future. Aromas of just-ripe apple, Meyer lemon zest, white flower and stone drop into a palate of wet concrete, tight pear and delicate honeydew. —M.K. abv: 12.8% Price: $42 96 Seabold Cellars 2020 Olsen Prunetucky Sands Chardonnay (Monterey). For full review see page 89. abv: 12.7% Price: $40 95 Babcock 2021 Dream Field Chardonnay (Santa Barbara County). Pioneering vintner Bryan Babcock tapped two of his favorite vineyards, Peake Ranch and Bien Nacido, to craft this compelling wine. Sharp lemon and lemongrass aromas cut like a laser through the peach and honeysuckle of the nose. The palate is energetic with more sharp lemon alongside…

CHARDONNAY 97 Kumeu River 2021 Coddington Chardonnay (Kumeu). Following an outstanding 2020 vintage, the ’21s are, remarkably, even better. Coddington is the richest in the Kumeu Chard stable. Concentrated notes of honeyed peach, pineapple rind and buttered toast pulse with drive and force. The richness comes from fruit ripeness—the oak is present but in a supporting role—with a mouthwatering acidity. It’s shapely, long and elegant, and gives Meursault Premier Cru a serious run for its money. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 96 Kumeu River 2021 Rays Road Chardonnay (Hawkes Bay). Kumeu’s limestone hillside in Hawkes Bay has really stepped it up in just one year. It’s the most overtly fruity of the range, but it always feels fresh and mineral-driven, too, as if blown through with a…

While there is often a lot of attention on Dry January and Sober October, the non-alcoholic movement in American craft beer is now a year-round focus. From new entrants to established breweries who have long been making full-strength beers, there is a kaleidoscope of lagers and ales on the marketplace—all sans booze. That non-alcoholic brews have grown in popularity over the last several years is the culmination of several factors. First, technology has improved, which allows brewers to make non-alcoholic beer without sacrificing taste. In the past NA options have tasted like punishment or over-boiled beers with little redeeming character. Technology has improved, which allows brewers to make non-alcoholic beer without sacrificing taste. Second, many beer drinkers who have grown up with endless craft beer options are getting older. The…

I thought I’d found the perfect cocktail. When I was 25, I attended a wedding in Northern Italy, near the groom’s hometown. The wedding was held in a stone church in a village by a lake. I explored tiny shops on winding streets where I ate gelato before the ceremony. I’d never felt cooler. I’d heard George Clooney got married on a lake in Italy. I imagined he also had gelato. One of the highlights was a cocktail served that evening: a reddish drink over ice that came with a refreshing orange slice. A menu stated it was a Negroni—a famous drink from the area. My cocktail tastes had never grown beyond a rum and Coke, but apparently the region’s sophistication was rubbing off on me. I loved it.…

The Wine Enthusiast Podcast, hosted by Jacy Topps, is your serving of drinks’ culture and the people who drive it. The podcast, which airs twice a month, features real conversations about beverage-related topics. Recently, in a series we called “Wine and Basketball,” we talked to NBA stars who have gotten into the wine business. Listen in everywhere you get your podcasts or at winemag.com/podcasts. Châteauneuf-du-Pape is very interesting. If you know, you know, right? I wanted to create and invite my consumer and fan base into [regions] that they probably never even heard of. Carmelo Anthony NBA All-Star and cofounder of The Seventh Estate EPISODE 133: “We’re Creating Our Legacy:” Carmelo Anthony Talks About His New Wine Label There are many of the same values that you have in basketball…

THEY’RE BAAACK! SUN-DRIED TOMATOES, ubiquitous for most of the ’80s but whose popularity petered out shortly thereafter, are in fashion yet again—much like shoulder pads and Kate Bush singles. Chefs like Dominique Crenn, Bryant Terry and Eric Kim have recently extolled their virtues, and one of last year’s hottest TikTok recipes was a one-pot orzo with sun-dried tomatoes. Neither fresh nor canned tomatoes can compete with their complex combination of fruity brightness and umami depth. Most sun-dried tomatoes are dried in ovens, not the sun, which means if you find yourself with an overabundance of fresh tomatoes, they’re easy to make at home (halve plum or cherry tomatoes, remove seeds and juices, salt and bake at 250°F for at least 4 hours). At the store, you should try tomatoes packed…

It’s said that good things come in threes, and that really applies to Sherry. Hailing from an area called the “Sherry triangle” in southeastern Andalucía, the region officially known as DO Jerez-Xérès-Sherry gets its nickname from the city of Jerez de la Frontera along with neighboring towns El Puerto de Santa María and Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Although regional authorities recently added a handful of varieties allowed in the production of Sherry, it is traditionally made with three grapes: Palomino, Moscatel and Pedro Ximénez (PX). If your only image of Sherry is in the hands of an older relative enjoying a “nip” from a tiny, ornate glass in the afternoon, it’s time for an update. After all, if this region, whose winemaking history stretches back more than 3,000 years to…

A winemaker grabs a disc, a hunk of elemental sulfur, ignites it and hangs it from the hole in the top of the empty barrel from a hook. He repeats this for each barrel in each row, the smoke wafting in the air, filling the winery with something almost medieval. Like a priest burning ritualistic incense. Winemakers still do this. Though it’s far from the most common way to add sulfur to wine, it’s common enough that you might be touring a winery in Calistoga and see and smell smoke rising from barrels. The practice of using sulfur to protect wine from spoilage, volatile acidity (turning vinegary) and bacteria dates back to at least the 18th century. The idea that sulfites in wine is why you have a headache in…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. STAFF EDITORS Anna-Christina Cabrales: Burgundy, Rhône Valley Jim Gordon: Napa, Sonoma Craig Chamberlain: Virginia Stacy Briscoe: California Jacy Topps: Languedoc-Roussillon, Provence, Vin de France WRITERS AT LARGE Michael Alberty: Oregon, Washington, Canada Danielle Callegari: Tuscany and Southern Italy Mike DeSimone: Spain, Croatia, Israel, Turkey, Lebanon, Armenia, Hungary John Holl: Beer, Hard Setzer Kara Newman: Spirits, RTD Christina Pickard: Australia, New Zealand, England, New York Jeff Porter: Piedmont and Northern Italy Emily Saladino: Greece, Georgia Layla Shlack: Alsace Reggie Solomon: Beaujolais, Loire Valley Jesica Vargas: South America and South Africa. Roger Voss: Portugal, France: Bordeaux, Champagne, Southwest & Other France Aleks Zecevic: Austria, Germany TASTING METHODOLOGY…

RED WINES 93 Château de Caraguilhes 2020 Cochon Volant (Corbières). Vibrant and bright aromas of pomegranate, raspberry, fresh herbs and purple flowers all showcase the elegance of this bottling. The palate offers juicy red cherry and raspberry supported by fine tannins, with a perfect pop of acidity on the long finish. BNP Distributing. —J.T. abv: 14% Price: $25 92 Gérard Bertrand 2020 Héritage Kosmos 888 (Languedoc). Intense aromas of wild boysenberry, raspberry, dark plum and spice make for an intense nose on this blend. The palate is juicy, offering notes of jammy blackberry, strawberry, marjoram and spice on the finish. USA Wine West. Best Buy. —J.T. abv: 14.5% Price: $19 92 Les Domaines Auriol Claude Vialade 2019 Chateau Ciceron In Memoriam (Corbières). This elegant, violet-hued wine has explosive aromas of…

GRÜNER VELTLINER 96 Prager 2021 Ried Achleiten Stockkultur Smaragd Grüner Veltliner (Wachau). What a classic expression of Grüner Veltliner from the Wachau! This shows pedigree, combining vivacity, richness and elegance. Its firm structure is decorated with notes of cardamom, bergamot and thyme, underscored by bright acidity, while its silky texture adds extra charm. Nicely balanced from start to finish, it is showing beautifully now, but has the verve to age deliciously. Drink now–2041. Winebow Imports. Cellar Selection. —A.Z. abv: 14% Price: $95 95 Johannes Zillinger 2019 Numen Grüner Veltliner (Niederösterreich). Rich yellow and slightly cloudy in appearance, this white features a generous core of durian, Mirabelle plum and chamomile flavors, underscored by bracing acidity and corduroy-like texture. This Grüner is multilayered and complex with elegant acidity and a cool climate…

CHARDONNAY 94 White Walnut 2021 Dundee Hills Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). This breathtaking Chardonnay is made with biodynamically farmed estate fruit. Its aromas of Anjou pear, toasted filberts and pine needles are followed by this faint salty/savory note reminiscent of Stilton cheese. Brilliant acidity shines a spotlight on crisp flavors of lavender lemonade and wet slate. Editors’ Choice. —M.A. abv: 13.08% Price: $40 93 Domaine Serene 2019 Récolte Grand Cru Chardonnay (Dundee Hills). This is classic Willamette Valley Chardonnay, with lemon, butter, lemon verbena, chalk dust and toasted-filbert aromas emerging gracefully from the glass. Rich lemon curd and shortbread flavors mix with traces of pine needles and tonic water. The wine’s crisp texture goes hand-in-hand with tangy acidity. —M.A. abv: 13.7% Price: $160 93 On Wine Hill 2021 Millerandage Chardonnay (Tualatin…

If you already love tequila, it’s time to add mezcal to your home bar. This Mexican agave spirit offers some of the most complex, expressive flavors you can find in your glass, from herbal and grassy to honeyed and lush or savory and spiced. Some offer smoky or roasted flavors, reflecting the process of slow-roasting agave piñas. Oaxaca Old Fashioneds and Mezcal Margaritas have certainly helped fuel a rise in new mezcal bottlings. While a great mezcal can be a pleasure to sip neat, cocktails featuring mezcal have been on the rise. All those Oaxaca Old Fashioneds and Mezcal Margaritas have certainly helped fuel a rise in new mezcal bottlings in the U.S. Echoing the celebrity tequila boom, celebrity-backed mezcal has also arrived. Those getting in the game include Aaron…