Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2023 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR, PRINT John Capone TASTING DIRECTOR Anna-Christina Cabrales CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL Rachel Tepper Paley SENIOR EDITOR, PRINT Stacy Briscoe SENIOR EDITOR, DIGITAL Arielle Weg DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT Jacy Topps CONTRIBUTING EDITOR, FOOD Nils Bernstein WEB PRODUCER Samantha Sette DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL VISUALS EDITOR Evan de Normandie DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena TASTING SENIOR EDITOR, TASTING Jim Gordon SENIOR TASTING COORDINATORS Craig Chamberlain, Cody Wexler ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Russell Peborde SOCIAL DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Marco Bruno VIDEO SUPERVISING VIDEO PRODUCER Braxton Parr VIDEO PRODUCER Rob Martin WRITERS AT LARGE WINE Michael Alberty, Danielle Callegari, Mike DeSimone, Matt Kettmann, Christina…

“Beverage director really is an all-encompassing, creative role when it comes to the restaurant. So, it is very much a creative and administrative role.”Erin Healy Beverage director at Gramercy Tavern “It’s super important for me … to have a list that anyone who wants to order a bottle of wine can enjoy a variety of bottles at different price levels.”William Edwards Beverage director at Manhatta Let’s get the conversation started. The Wine Enthusiast Podcast, hosted by Jacy Topps, is your serving of drinks culture and the people who drive it. The podcast, which airs twice a month, features real conversations about beverage-related topics. Recently, we’ve talked about the many ways in which beverage directors stay in the know and create interesting and accessible wine lists. Listen in everywhere you get…

Gochujang vinaigrette: Mix 2 tablespoons each gochujang, rice or cider vinegar, and toasted sesame oil with 1 tablespoon each soy sauce and honey. Toss with any salad or roasted vegetables. Gochujang mayo: Mix ½ cup mayo, 1 ½ tablespoons gochujang, and 2 teaspoons lime juice. Serve with fish, fries, burgers, wings or anything else. Gochujang noodles: Mix ¼ cup gochujang with 1 tablespoon each soy sauce, rice or cider vinegar, toasted sesame oil and honey. Toss with soba, somen or other noodles and top with shredded cabbage, carrot and cucumber. FERMENTED The pleasantly funky, faintly cheesy aroma of gochujang comes from the fermentation process. The quality is terrific with skin-contact whites (aka “orange” wines). Though these vary wildly, they’re usually intensely aromatic, often with unusual notes like nut butters, buckwheat…

In Paso Robles, 300 miles south, winemakers also cite a difference of 50 degrees or more. If you’ve ever encountered the word “diurnal” it was likely during a visit to a California winery or between sips at a winemaker dinner. And then you probably heard it again at the next place you visited and the one after that and so on. Diurnal means “daily,” and in winegrowing regions “diurnal swing” or “diurnal shift” is the difference between the maximum daily temperature and the minimum nightly temperature in a 24-hour period. It is a valid metric for understanding certain aspects of grape and wine quality, but only—in my view—when used in moderation. Some wine producers, eager to convince you that their vineyards—and not the vineyards of their colleagues in other Golden…

Never has so much enthusiasm been generated by so few vines as it has in Willamette Valley by Chardonnay grapes. The wines made from those grapes are earning the kind of praise, prices and points that have everyone combing the region for available fruit. With only 2,200 acres of Chardonnay planted, it is a daunting task. “All the fruit in the valley is locked up. If you want more Chardonnay, you have to plant it,” says Josh Bergström, owner and winemaker at Bergström Wines in Dundee, Oregon. And people are doing just that, as the Willamette Valley’s Chardonnay acreage totals have doubled since 2014. Tai-Ran Niew, an investment banker turned vocal Willamette Valley Chardonnay advocate, is part of that increase. Inspired by Chardonnay’s potential in the Willamette Valley, in 2016,…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Anna-Christina Cabrales (Burgundy, Rhone), Senior Editor, Tasting Jim Gordon (Napa, Sonoma), Senior Tasting Coordinator Craig Chamberlain (Virginia), Senior Editor, Print Stacy Briscoe (California), Assistant Editor Jacy Topps (Languedoc-Roussillon, Vin de France) and Writers at Large Michael Alberty (Oregon, Washington, Canada), Mike DeSimone (Spain, Croatia, Israel, Turkey, Lebanon, Armenia, Hungary), John Holl (Beer), Matt Kettmann (Central and South Coast California), Kara Newman (Spirits), Christina Pickard (Australia, New Zealand, England, New York), Emily Saladino (Greece, Georgia), Layla Shlack (Alsace), Jesica Vargas (South America and South Africa), Roger Voss (Portugal, France: Bordeaux, Beaujolais, Champagne, Loire, Provence, Southwest France), Aleks…

CHARDONNAY 89 David Finlayson 2020 Camino Africana - Shale Terraces Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). The nose is restrained, offering a light bouquet of citrus fruit. Mineral texture and moderate acidity support a creamy palate with lime, pear and vanilla bean flavors that extend into the medium finish. It’s a smooth Chardonnay. Southern Starz, Inc. —J.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 89 Glen Carlou 2021 Petite Chardonnay Chardonnay (Coastal Region). The wine has an herbaceous character, and its subtle aroma displays celery and gunflint. It’s light and fresh, with a mineral texture holding mild notes of lime and white grapefruit. Good acidity extends hints of grass and citrus flavors into the finish. Pace Wine and Spirits. Best Buy. —J.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $13 89 Glenelly 2021 Glass Collection Unoaked Chardonnay (Stellenbosch). The nose is…

CHARDONNAY 94 Bodega Catena Zapata 2020 Adrianna Vineyard White Bones Chardonnay (Mendoza). This white comes from a plot within the famous Adrianna Vineyards in Gualtallary, Uco Valley. The soil profile includes calcareous layers, limestone and fossilized animal bones. It’s vibrant and delicate, opening with aromas of eucalyptus, wet stone, lime and almond. A dry and harmonious palate with mineral texture offers lime, kumquat, apricot, herbs, honey and hints of smoke that linger in the delicious finish. Winebow Imports. Editors’ Choice. —J.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $140 91 Pyros 2021 Appellation Chardonnay (Pedernal Valley). Coming from San Juan, Argentina’s second largest wine-producing region, this white offers delicate notes of white flowers, lime and herbs. A light note of honey adds to its complexity. The mineral-textured palate has weight and shows white peach,…

WHITE WINES TOSCANA 95 Le Macchiole 2021 Paleo (Toscana). Opening aromas of rubber bouncy ball and green apple on the nose belie the seriousness of this Chardonnay. It subsequently suggests salted lemon peel, damp cobblestones and more lush tree fruit and spices. The palate turns to crisp green-apple slices and lemon-lime candy, with salted peanuts on the back and searing acid that lifts it all into an ethereal plane. Vintus LLC. —D.C. abv: NA Price: $100 93 San Felice 2020 Ancherona Chardonnay (Toscana). Hot pavement, lemon and the salty grit of seashells make for a warm, spicy nose on this wine. That remains the rule for the palate, which stays reduced and citrusy. Mouthfilling and savory, this Chardonnay lingers with more citrus, flowers and crushed rock on a long finish.…

RED WINES CAIRANNE 93 La Bastide Saint Dominique 2020 Les 2 Arbres (Cairanne). This wine is an even blend of Grenache, Syrah, Carignan and Mourvèdre. It offers a dynamic and layered palate of blackberry, rhubarb and cassis liquor over a persistent layer of dried cranberries, fines herbes and black peppercorn, with a stony finish. It is quite impressive and accessible after a short decant. Europvin USA. Editors’ Choice. —A.C.C. abv: 14.5% Price: $26 92 Domaine de la Présidente 2020 Vieilles Vignes (Cairanne). This is a flashy blend of 60% Grenache and 40% Syrah. The palate starts with blackberry-mint compote fused with green peppercorn, bringing harmony to this intensely savory and meaty wine. Powerful and energetic, the wine is enjoyable in its youth or cellar through 2028 or a bit longer.…

There is complex simplicity to the saison. It is often called a Belgian farmhouse ale, thanks in part to its history. The well-repeated story has this rustic style being served to farmers in the field during the growing and harvest season. This is fitting since the style evolved as a means to use the late-harvest grains. While not as flashy as India pale ales in the eyes of consumers, nor with the same behind-the-scenes brewers push that craft lagers achieve, the saison has a dedicated and passionate following among producers and drinkers who appreciate the combination of earthy hops, wheat, rustic grain and often Brettanomyces. “Standout offerings typically come from brewers who appreciate tradition… and who maintain correct patience during the fermentation process.” The beer is typically yellow straw in…

I’ve I’ve grown up with such a level of confidence in my wine knowledge that it has never occurred to me to be embarrassed by my preferences. I’ve been exposed to so many facets of wine that I always end up back where I am—drinking whatever I like. And yet, I am constantly baffled by the ubiquity of self-doubt and fear of judgment some feel when talking about what wines they enjoy. Chardonnay may be one of the most consistently misunderstood varieties in this universe of strong preferences. It’s a surprising grape to have become so polarizing. On its own, it’s an innocent blank canvas. What did Chardonnay ever do to you? I’ll tell you what it did; it did exactly what the winemakers and viticulturists wanted. It’s been…

“Imagine if a flawless glass of white wine ate a hallucinogenic mushroom,” says Natasha David of her “luscious” milk punch, which dispatches a full bottle of Chardonnay alongside pineapple gum syrup, Sauternes and spiced velvet falernum. Featured in her cocktail book Drink Lightly, the author and former owner of NYC’s Nitecap bar is only one of many devotees using Chardonnay in applications way beyond the wine glass. It’s Been There All Along Chardonnay’s versatility and zippy acidity appeals to those making creative spirits and mixing cocktails. Most likely, you’ve already had it in your martini: The grape often goes incognito in white vermouth and aperitif wines, sometimes as part of a blend (for example, Italy’s Carpano Bianco mixes it with Trebbiano and Cortese grapes). Others are more forthcoming, trumpeting local…

Unless you’ve been living under an especially sozzled rock, you likely know that demand for zero-proof cocktails has soared—sales of non-alcoholic drinks in the U.S. surged 20.6% in 2022, according to Nielsen IQ—and most bars and restaurants have added creative non-alcoholic drinks to their repertoires. At Thompson Savannah, head bartender Ryan O’Neil developed this vegetal and vividly hued NA offering to accommodate the hotel’s guests who might like to drink their veggies. “I want to make sure non-drinkers have an equally interesting, fun and seasonal option,” O’Neil says of this spring-y drink, which features carrot-orange juice and a boozeless agave distillate—one of the growing ranks of non-alcoholic bottles lining the shelves. The result is a savory and sophisticated sipper. BUNNY IN A TOP HAT Courtesy Ryan O’Neil, Head Bartender,…

BUTTER BOOSTER In a world that craves unadulterated wines more than ever, denying Chardonnay its natural inclination to undergo malolactic fermentation is an enological faux pas. Why rely on modern technology to change the way this noble grape has been treated since Burgundian monks got a hold of it a millennium ago? It’s true that winemakers can use a cold cellar to block ML at first. But to ensure that it doesn’t spontaneously start in a bottled wine, the only safe solution is sterile filtration. There’s nothing inherently wrong with that widespread practice, but it may also remove a wine’s subtle nuances and texture. That’s why so many wineries today pride themselves on producing unfiltered wines. If you do go with wines that haven’t gone through ML, you’re likely…

CHARDONNAY 97 Giaconda 2019 Estate Vineyard Chardonnay (Beechworth). Giaconda’s Chardonnays have a kind of cult status Down Under for their ability to give Burgundy a run for its money. In the Beechworth region of Victoria, at high altitude, the winemaking is ultra traditional. A rich, toasty style, this vintage is gorgeously aromatic right off the bat, with concentrated melon, stone fruit, smoke, oyster shell and buttered toast, revealing polished oak. In the mouth, the flavors ricochet with intensity and richness. Beautifully balanced with length and poise, this is an indulgent wine now, but could cellar gracefully for another 12-15 years. Legend Imports. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $195 96 Bass Phillip 2019 Premium Chardonnay (Gippsland). For full review see page 86. Vineyard Brands. abv: 13.8% Price: $127 95 Stella Bella 2021…

CHARDONNAY 95 Cuvaison 2020 ATS Estate Grown Chardonnay (Carneros-Napa Valley). Heady aromas, complex flavors, a great concentration of fruit and oak spice components lift this wine well above the pack. Everything from toasted baguettes to grated ginger, poached pears and marzipan play across the palate as a full body and lush texture carry them forward to a lingering finish. Editors’ Choice. —J.G. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 95 Mira 2017 Hyde Vineyard Chardonnay (Napa Valley). For full review see page 87. abv: 14.6% Price: $95 95 Morgan 2021 Highland Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see page 87. abv: 14.1% Price: $30 95 Newton 2020 Beckstoffer Carneros Lake Vineyard Chardonnay (Napa Valley). Toasty, spicy flavors, full body and a creamy texture come together beautifully in this detailed and well-balanced wine.…

WHITE WINES COLLIO 93 Primosic 2021 Pinot Grigio (Collio). Pale copper in color, with lacy and wafting aromas, this is a unique and worthwhile Pinot Grigio. Aromas of white cherry, lemon pith and green apple set the stage for more subtle aromas of pressed flowers and river stones. The palate is broad and ample. A solid core of baked pear and citrus skin wrapped in vivid acidity gives it a sturdy backbone. Drink now–2030. Panebianco. Editors’ Choice. —J.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $25 93 Primosic 2018 Ribolla Gialla (Collio). Macerated for over 28 days, this golden-hued wine jumps out of the bottle with aromas of spiced dried apricots, roasted honey, dried yellow flowers and dried earth. The palate is rich and full in body, with a nuttiness mixed with dried peach…

94 Badia a Coltibuono 2016 Montebello (Chianti Classico). Intense black pepper on the nose of this wine feels straight from the grinder, backed by cardamom pod, tree bark, cigar box, red berries, rose petals and finally chocolate. The palate is spicy and peppery like the nose. Acid highlights the heat before darker fruit, spices and bitter chocolate come out. It’s long, deep and harmonious. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. —D.C. abv: 14% Price: $61 94 Gagliole 2018 Gallule Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). The herbaceous and floral nose on this wine also has notes of iron, new bricks, sour plum and sour cherry. Cherry lingers on the palate, swinging into fig and raisin like a chocolate fruit cake, with umami density from well-aged balsamic vinegar. Tannins are softened but hold their structure,…

RED WINES MARGAUX 98 Château Margaux 2020 (Margaux). This is a big wine, smoky and rich. With a higher proportion of Petit Verdot than in the past, it offers complexity and bold black fruits. The wine is structured while always ripe and generous. Drink this magnificent wine from 2028. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $641 98 Château Palmer 2020 (Margaux). Massively rich already with density and opulence, this powerful wine is half-and-half Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. The dark tannins presage aging for many years. Drink from 2027. Multiple U.S. importers. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $342 97 Château Durfort-Vivens 2020 (Margaux). In this wine, the tannins are velvety, with black fruits that are immensely concentrated. The texture and powerful tannins provide superb foils for the…

Many writers have a superstition—those eccentric or even somewhat strange behaviors to dispel bad luck or maintain positive outcomes. I read somewhere Truman Capote refused to start or finish a piece of writing on a Friday. My superstition? Every time I pitched a story to an editor, I had to be drinking a glass of Chablis. My unfounded belief started when I got it into my head to pitch my favorite international feminist publication—Bust. I sat down to write the pitch while, you guessed it, drinking a glass of Chablis. Three days later, the publication accepted the pitch. A triumph, I decided, I had to recreate with every single pitch. So, every time I contacted an editor, I opened a bottle. Depending on the publication, I would buy more…

Could ChatGPT, the AI from research lab OpenAI, write spirits reviews for this magazine? Kara Newman, the human who rates them for Wine Enthusiast, wanted to know. She watched, with some nervousness, the development of the ChatGPT as it got out into the wild. In the span of a couple of months, it passed a Wharton MBA exam, rewrote a Shakespearean soliloquy from the perspective of a kindergartener and prompted a multi-billion-dollar investment from Microsoft. “Am I at risk of being replaced by an AI bot?” she wondered. Then she asked the robot to write some reviews to find out. >_ write a whiskey review by a journalist Johnnie Walker Blue Label is a blended Scotch whisky from the Johnnie Walker company. It is made with a blend of…

There must be something special about a grape if a state declares it as its own. Meet Traminette, Indiana’s signature wine grape. This white hybrid is a cross between Gewürztraminer and Joannes Seyve 23.416 (itself already a hybrid—making Traminette a true mashup), bred in 1965 by Herb C. Barrett, whose original intent was to create a table grape that incorporated the classic floral perfume and white pepper spice innate to Gewürztraminer. “It’s a grape we can grow from north to south,” says Jill Blume, enology specialist at Purdue University, explaining that the state, which sees all four seasons—from extremely cold winters through to hot, even humid summers—is much cooler in the north than it is in the south. Thus, finding a grape that is both winter-hardy and disease resistant…

Paul Siguqa stood at the podium, looking out at the sea of people waiting to hear him speak. There was barely any standing room in the conference hall—organizers struggled to fit in as many guests as possible. They had underestimated, not expecting such a turnout for this, the first afternoon seminar at Cape Wine’s 2022 exhibition. People—eager to learn about the shift occurring in South Africa’s wine industry and how Black people were leading the transformation—turned out in droves. Siguqa, the son of a farm laborer, gave an impassioned speech about changing the narrative long bestowed on Black farmers in South Africa. He talked about land ownership, diversifying the value chain and the benefits a more inclusive wine industry could bring for the country’s entire economic landscape. “If it’s possible…

Christina Pickard reviews wines from Australia, New Zealand, England and New York, while Jesica Vargas is the reviewer for South America and South Africa. Christina Pickard: I’ll go ahead and say it: Australian Chardonnays are some of the most underrated wines on the planet. They strike an elegant balance between vibrant fruit, piercing acidity and silky texture. Utterly delicious now, many will age gracefully for decades. And most come with price tags last seen in Burgundy a generation ago. If you’re holding onto outdated notions of over-ripe, toffee-oaked Aussie Chard, I beg you to pour yourself a glass of any of the wines reviewed in this issue, from Victoria and Western Australia, where the cooling influences of either the ocean or elevation retain gorgeous acidity. From Margaret River, top Chardy…

CHARDONNAY 96 Pyramid Valley 2019 Lion’s Tooth Chardonnay (North Canterbury). From one of New Zealand’s most revered vineyards, Lion’s Tooth comes with a fair lick of smoke and oyster-shell aromas at first sniff. But a little aeration in glass and the delicate aromas of lemon curd, white peach, vanilla bean and cream shine through. There’s weight to the palate and a lovely slippery texture. The laser-like, citrusy acidity is a reminder of just how cool the climate is up in Pyramid Valley, north of Christchurch. Persistent, layered, elegant and classy, this is one of New Zealand’s most expressive Chardonnays, and it almost guarantees a long and ever-changing life ahead. Drink now through 2032 at least. Pyramid Valley Vineyards LLC. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $100 95 Pyramid Valley 2019 Field of…

CHARDONNAY 94 Appassionata 2019 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Anyone questioning Chardonnay’s potential in the Willamette Valley should try this rich and sophisticated wine. A silky texture, is met with mouthfilling flavors of orange sorbet, pineapple and challah bread, as well as a hint of mint. The aromas of lemon curd and petrichor are equally delightful. Enjoy now until 2032. Cellar Selection. —M.A. abv: 13.5% Price: $95 92 Angela Vineyards 2019 Chardonnay (Willamette Valley). Tangy ginger and white-pepper aromas will wake you right up, followed by bursts of juniper berries, wet rocks and tart Anjou pears. The wine’s crisp texture is like biting into a chilled apple, with white-peach and pine-needle flavors, and it’s lovely with goat-cheese pastry puffs. —M.A. abv: 13.2% Price: $38 92 Bethel Heights 2019 Justice Vineyard Chardonnay (Eola-Amity…

95 Tiefenbrunner 2019 Vigna Au Riserva Chardonnay (Alto Adige). Grown at elevations between 853 feet and 1,050 feet on the steep slopes of this single vineyard, this wine is serious. Reluctant at first to show itself, the wine eventually opens up to showcase aromas of fresh red and green apples, lemon zest and hints of oak. The palate is rich yet well balanced, and fresh with quince and pear flavors. This refined wine will reward you with a few years in the cellar. Drink 2025–2035 Winebow Imports. Cellar Selection. —J.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $100 94 Cantina Produttori San Michele Appiano 2020 Sanct Valentin Chardonnay (Alto Adige). Since 1907 this historic winery has made great white wines. Today, the 350 members of this cooperative work together to grow site-specific grapes that…

WHITE WINES CHABLIS 95 J. Moreau & Fils 2019 Les Clos Grand Cru (Chablis). Silky and lactic, this golden-yellow wine offers complex layers of Meyer lemon, lime skin, citrus oil, tangerine, mangosteen, geranium and toasted almond, with a firm yet subtle mineral finish. The wine should hit peak in the next three to five years and hold well beyond 2030. Boisset Collection. —A.C.C. abv: 13% Price: $95 94 Domaine Laroche 2020 Les Blanchots Grand Cru “Reserve de l’Obedience” (Chablis). For this reviewer, the delicious umami midpalate of this wine is everything. Framed by fresh verbena skin, lemon oil, acacia spice, dandelion, celery leaf and black peppercorn, the wine is exciting now but can benefit from cellaring through at least 2028. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —A.C.C. abv: 14% Price: $156 93 Domaine…

Espresso Martini. Dirty Shirley. Cosmopolitan. Dirty Martini. Lemon Drop. What do these five drinks have in common? Each ranked within the 10 top-trending drinks-related searches on Google in 2022—and all are made with vodka. Yes: Fully half of the top 10 are vodka cocktails, handily outpacing drinks made with any other spirit (two rum drinks, one whiskey, one gin and the Aperol Spritz comprise the rest of the top 10). “Vodka’s versatility and mixability explain why the spirit remains the top seller, year after year.” Vodka’s versatility and mixability explain why the spirit remains the top seller, year after year. Several studies show that in 2021 and 2022, vodka sales grew more slowly than in previous years, while sales of tequila accelerated rapidly. While vodka provides a blank-canvas backbone to…