Innholdsfortegnelse for Best of 2022 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

“It’s become such an issue that the federal agency that regulates wine had to remind these producers that it’s illegal to make health claims.” Whenever Tyler Eck’s friends see the ads on their Instagram feed, their next message is immediately to him. “Is this for real?” they ask Eck, a California winemaker who works for Fess Parker and has his own label, Dunitas, with wife Rachel. “Or is it a scam?” The ads tout “clean wine”—fewer calories, less additives and all the rest. Eck’s friends can’t believe that something that contains alcohol can be, for lack of a better term, beneficial. And, he tells them, they’re mostly right. “This is healthwashing, just like greenwashing,” says Eck. “They make a lot of claims, like lower sugar and less calories, that really…

Of all the wine classes I teach, Champagne remains my favorite subject. Students engage, eager to learn; the class feels like a casual conversation about artisans who inspire me. My presentation always includes a wine flight showcasing the differences between the two main types of Champagne producers one would likely find at their local wine shop: The large well-known maisons, or Grandes Marques, and grower producers. The Grandes Marques serve as the calling card of this illustrious place—carrying on a 350-year-old tradition that makes this region unparalleled. Stroll down the Avenue de Champagne in Epernay, once called Fabour de la Folie (“crazy suburb”), and you will find the famous names of Moët & Chandon, Pol Roger, Boizel and Vranken, just to name a few. These and the likes of Charles…

What does it take to stand out in the crowded beer industry these days? A commitment to quality, a desire for innovation and an understanding and appreciation for ingredient nuance. There are more than 9,000 breweries in the United States and many thousands more around the world. These breweries are standing on the shoulders of committed professionals, scientists and farmers who have built a base of knowledge that creates a dynamic and engaging drinking experience. This list represents the very best submitted to Wine Enthusiast, tasted throughout 2022. Hazy appearance is in fashion this year. But from the banana- and clove-forward Hefeweizens to the tropical and citrus hazy pale ales and international India pale ales, the selections here go well beyond looks. Smoky rauchbier joins ales and lagers with creative…

Through steady, strategic investments in vineyards, wineries and brands over 26 years, and a parallel progression in winemaking quality, William Foley has become one of the most influential vintners in California. The company he founded in 1996, Foley Family Wines, now includes in its portfolio such iconic wineries as Chalk Hill, Sebastiani, Firestone, Ferrari-Carano, Chateau St. Jean, Silverado Vineyards and many others in California and the Pacific Northwest, as well as investments in New Zealand, France and Argentina. Foley Family Wines was ranked No. 20 this year in sales volume among U.S. wineries by Wine Business Monthly, before the recent addition of Silverado, and will soon reach two million cases. Numbers like those might tie some owners into knots as they try to keep all the moving parts moving.…

There was nothing textbook about how the Miller family evolved from being primarily an agricultural company family on California’s Central Coast into managing nearly a dozen brands and partnerships, from luxury-level estate bottlings to nationally distributed retail lines and even a stunningly successful no-alcohol wine. “We started backward,” admits Nicholas Miller, who is the chief sales & marketing officer and executive vice president of the Miller Family Wine Company. “We had an upside-down pyramid.” The Millers, who got into the grape business in the early 1970s after a century of growing lemons and avocados in Ventura County, already owned more than 2,000 acres of vineyards and large production facilities by the time they ventured into winemaking about 15 years ago. But their business model was selling grapes—from Bien Nacido…

Wine lovers have always celebrated legendary winemaking regions of the world, but discriminating oenophiles know that hidden gems are discovered off the beaten tasting path. The mountainous coastal region of Abruzzo in central Italy, located along the Adriatic Sea, is one such wine destination. It is Wine Enthusiast’s Region of the Year for reasons that outnumber the surprises it offers—from its unspoiled villages to its stunning natural landscapes, filled with waterfalls, rivers and historic castles. The celebrated wine region is also fast becoming a heralded destination for slow travel with an ambitious emphasis on a sustainable connection to local culture, people, gastronomy and music. The celebrated wine region is also fast becoming a heralded destination for slow travel. One of the oldest wine-growing regions, Abruzzo is located a scenic…

“Zuccardi Valle de Uco is Uco Valley,” says Sebastian Zuccardi, director of winemaking and third generation of the Zuccardi family. The winery has focused on elevating the Uco Valley region while positioning itself as one of its most iconic wine producers. The Zuccardis’ innovative spirit guided them to the Uco Valley in the early 2000s. Since then, they have explored it thoroughly, from a macro to a micro perspective. As a result, their winery is currently praised for its wines made with grapes from acclaimed appellations such as Altamira, Gualtallary and San Pablo. “As a family,” says Zuccardi, “what we did well was create something with deep roots by first understanding the region, then purchasing land, learning more about the region and finally building a winery.” In 2009, Zuccardi…

When Pat (P.J.) Rigney first created the prototype for Drumshanbo Gunpowder Irish Gin in 2014, he had visions of a gin flavored with botanicals from around the world, reflecting his own lifetime of travel, but distilled in Ireland, where his own heritage lay. “This is my life’s work,” says Rigney, now managing director and founder of The Shed Distillery, located in Ireland’s western province, Connacht. After more than three decades working in the spirits industry, including representing legacy Irish brands such as Bailey’s Irish Cream and Irish Mist, Rigney set out to create his own brand, specifically a gin that would be “delicious, exotic, but with lots of layers to it.” He collected a recipe of 12 botanicals, including Ireland’s meadowsweet and Chinese “gunpowder” green tea, and distilled the…

“A crisis is a terrible thing to waste.” It is difficult to see 2022 in a vacuum when looking back at the past year. It feels like it has been a three-year rollercoaster of transformation. Changes in the economy, changes in agriculture, politics, technology, the list feels endless. All of that culminates in my understanding that change is not only constant, it’s a constant opportunity. Much of the news this year was challenging, however in the challenges we see glimmers of inspiration. As someone once told me, “A crisis is a terrible thing to waste.” Difficult times push us to be brave. At Wine Enthusiast, we’re no strangers to change, and there have been many these past few years, however it was felt most acutely in 2022. We have…

By bringing his winemaking equipment right into a vineyard block, as close to the source and as far from the commercial strains flying around the winery as possible, a winemaker is attempting to isolate the effects of native yeasts. Why is this man fermenting wine in the vineyard? Afew years ago, after decades of growing thousands of acres of grapes for dozens of brands across the Salinas Valley, the folks at Scheid Family Wines (who produce upwards of 700,000 cases a year) realized there might be something special about one of their smaller vineyards. Perched on a bluff that inspired a passage from John Steinbeck’s Of Mice & Men, the 360-acre Riverview Vineyard reliably produced Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays that stood above the rest of the Scheid pack. They wanted…

“A beverage without alcohol should not be considered lesser.” Nonalcoholic bottle shops, shelves of spiritless spirits and complex menu offerings that integrate vinegary shrubs with extracted produce essence are becoming commonplace. But even as we move toward this evolved world of nonalcoholic beverages, many still refer to them with the infantile word—mocktail. With my own adaptation to life post-breast cancer, I view thoughtful zero-proof menus as necessary evolutions. And as we reexamine the language used to describe wine and spirits to be more inclusive, menu language needs to be overhauled as well. A beverage without alcohol should not be considered lesser. “While the word mocktail is nearly universally recognized, and a clever portmanteau, it has been categorically the bearer of some of the most sugary, pandering beverages of all time.…

This past year has brought much to celebrate, including the continued (if cautious) return to gatherings with family and friends, and openings (and re-openings) of bars and restaurants across the country. It’s also brought a line-up of memorable spirits—and a number of surprises. This list was compiled from the hundreds of bottles we’ve had the opportunity to review over the past 12 months. It includes a top-scoring new bourbon that hailed from Colorado—not Kentucky—and an attention-getting Italian vermouth infused with Japanese cherry blossom that filled our glasses with pink-tinged Martinis. A toasty rye whiskey from Denmark shared space with top-tier American-made ryes, and a debut gin from Kenya charmed with brisk citrus and spice. Of note: This year’s Top 100 doesn’t include Scotch whisky—the first time since 2013 that has…

Just 25 years ago, no one—not even winemakers in Santa Barbara County—promoted the name “Sta. Rita Hills” as a prime place for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Yet just two decades after the appellation’s creation in 2001, this fog-soaked, wind-whipped western edge of the Santa Ynez Valley is a globally recognized hotspot for cool-climate grapes and a model of how to correctly craft an American Viticultural Area. “It can be hard to wrap your head around Southern California and think of a cool climate,” explains Matt Dees, who makes The Hilt wines from the Bentrock and Radian vineyards on Rancho Salsipuedes. “Until people come here and see it for themselves or taste enough wines, it’s hard to fathom. But once people taste that freshness and electricity in the whites and…

Randy Ullom, the man directly in charge of America’s No. 1 selling Chardonnay, is widely admired for his diligence, patience and pure winemaking talent. No less important: his knack for mentoring younger winemakers during an exceptional 47-year career. As the senior vice president and winemaster for all Kendall-Jackson wines (the biggest division of Jackson Family Wines), he oversees a massive program of vineyards, winery facilities and employees from his base in Santa Rosa, California, while still handling some of the detailed quality control chores of a winemaker. The steady quality and value of Vintner’s Reserve wines under Ullom’s direction have grown the brand to 3 million cases, about two-thirds of which is Chardonnay. It’s a testament to the talent of this mustachioed, soft-spoken but determined winemaker and the team…

Smoke taint is one of the greatest threats to America’s West Coast wine regions, with wines from more than half the vintages of the last decade affected. In the age of climate change, as wildfires become an increasingly regular part of life, the need for more research into the effects of smoke on grape growing and winemaking takes on new urgency. Enter three researchers: Anita Oberholster at the University of California, Davis; Tom Collins at Washington State University and Elizabeth Tomasino at Oregon State University. Individually, Oberholster, Collins and Tomasino had already been working on topics related to smoke and wine, but when the three applied for and received a four-year Specialty Crop Research Initiative (SCRI) grant in 2020, they combined forces, bringing research experience from their respective states…

Though today it’s a globally recognized wine country full of stylish tasting rooms and lined with vines as far as the eye can see, Paso Robles, California, was little more than a dusty cowboy town when Chuck and Marilyn Hope bought land to plant vineyards here in 1978. Four decades later, Hope Family Wines produces a wide range of internationally distributed brands that are respected for both quality and affordability as well as market-leading creativity. “We became one of the larger farmers in the area,” explains their son, Austin Hope, who went from a kid playing in vineyards to a visionary for the family’s wine portfolio almost 30 years ago. “There wasn’t anyone here at the time. We went through the whole cycle of the wine industry.” They grew…

Wine doesn’t sell itself. While most importers find success by working with as many big wineries as they can cram into their portfolio, or rigorously curating a small group of philosophically homogeneous winemakers they personally know, Pacific Highway Wines’ president Mark Giordano has helped spur the steady growth of his company’s business—and that of the wineries it represents—with a refreshingly novel tack. “We create partnerships with wineries in different regions,” Giordano says. “We want to grow their businesses through our partnerships at national retail, hotel and restaurant chains. We do that by working with one winery per region. “We want to be able to tick every box for our partners and offer representation from major wine-growing regions across the world, but we don’t want to ever have to choose…

With her enthusiastic, individualized approach and a magnanimous charitable streak, Tonya Pitts is a prime example of how sommeliers can impact the wine world far beyond the confines of the restaurants whose lists they shepherd. Pitts currently is wine director of One Market in San Francisco, where she manages a list of around 500 labels. She has over 30 years of experience in the restaurant industry, starting out at the iconic restaurants Stars, from chef Jeremiah Tower, and chef Judy Rodgers’ Zuni Café. For more than two decades she’s been a sommelier and wine director, telling the stories of both benchmark and under-sung regions and producers, while championing diversity and inclusion. That’s true both on and off her wine lists. She has long supported female, Black and Latino winemakers,…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 96 Mayacamas 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). This is an earthy, classically structured wine of great pedigree and style. It goes against the grain of bigger and riper wines. Tangy red fruit, sage and pencil shavings make for an expressive, lengthy and complex experience of elegance and grace. This wine will do well in the cellar. Enjoy best from 2028–2038. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14% Price: $150 96 Taub Family Vineyards 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Mount Veeder). For full review see page 167. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.7% Price: $85 96 Taub Family Vineyards 2019 Beckstoffer Missouri Hopper Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Napa Valley). Concentrated, contained and very young, this powerful, full-bodied wine tastes jam-packed with dark berries and dark chocolate while firm, fine-grained tannins give it a big mouthfeel. Time…

SIPPING ON THE SLOPES The view from Chez Vrony is jaw dropping—unique even for the Swiss Alps, where majestic mountain vistas are everywhere. Perched high above Zermatt’s bustling ski resorts and mountaineering-themed restaurants, this family farmhouse-turned-destination-restaurant offers breezy-elegant versions of alpine cuisine, an impressive cellar full of wine bottles that need to be loaded in before the snow makes it impossible—and a stunning panorama of the Matterhorn. Located in the quiet hamlet of Findeln, a collection of small barn-like structures with heavy slate roofs dotting the mountainside at 7,000 feet, Chez Vrony is accessible by ski lift or an hour’s hike from Zermatt center. Veronika Julen, who goes by the nickname “Vrony,” is the proprietor and the restaurant’s namesake. She is graceful and soft-spoken, with a genuinely hospitable demeanor. Her…

Our reviewers went on a hunt for discoveries this year and were not disappointed. Out of 21,000 blind-tasted wines reviewed and scored, thousands of bottles were outside the mainstream of wine retail offerings—and a good portion of those received high scores. The Enthusiast 100 puts the best of those discoveries front and center, calling out a savory, brambly Australian Pinot Noir from Giant Steps as the No. 1 wine of the year and a Barolo with scents of pressed roses and pine forest from G. B. Burlotto as No. 2. Wines with high scores and lower prices got special attention, because affordability is an exciting proposition for everyone and can mean wider access. Look for 22 wines at $25 and under, including a racy Spanish Albariño from Rias Baixas and…

Once a year, Baltimore Spirits takes an attention-grabbing approach to dispatching an abundance of Maryland apples into apple brandy. Inspired by the harvest celebration of Mexico’s pechuga mezcal, raw apples are swept with smoke, then distilled with foraged pawpaw, persimmon and black walnut. For the final distillation, a 30-pound Maryland country ham is suspended in the still above the pot, for a distinct “prosciutto-y” salinity, explains cofounder Max Lents. “It’s a completely insane thing to do—hanging hams in your still,” Lents acknowledges, “but the spirit wouldn’t be the same without it.” Insane? Maybe. But it’s memorable—and that’s important. Creative distilleries are shaking up the once-sleepy world of American brandy. Many are borrowing inspiration from ingredients and distilling cultures from around the world; others are finding ways to spotlight uber-local ingredients,…

After building Golden State Vintners into the country’s fourth largest winery, taking it public and then selling it, Marin County native Jeff O’Neill founded O’Neill Vintners & Distillers in 2004. It’s steadily grown into the 10th largest winery in America, with 13 nationally distributed brands and two dozen private-label wines—all amounting to more than seven million cases produced annually. “We basically brought coastal winemaking techniques to the Central Valley,” says O’Neill of the value-minded wines he makes primarily in Parlier, California. “We’re trying to please many consumers rather than a few upper luxury consumers.” Pledging a philosophy of “no drama,” he’s proud of treating people right. In an industry still dominated by white males, almost half of O’Neill’s 350 employees are female, 40 of them in executive-level roles. Alongside…

With relentless dedication, passion for problem solving and love of teamwork and collaboration, Nicole Hitchcock is the fourth winemaker in J Vineyards and Winery’s 36-year history. “It’s the creative pursuit of constantly refining my winemaking approach to make better wines every year that truly excites me,” she says. Born and raised on the central coast of California, her passion for wine was ignited while working in restaurants with dynamic culinary and wine programs throughout the state. Hitchcock took the next step in her wine education and embarked on a winemaking career after earning her Bachelor of Science in Viticulture & Enology in 2001 at the University of California, Davis. After working harvests in Napa, Australia and Argentina, she landed at E. & J. Gallo in 2010, ultimately taking the…

Using the skills she learned working in leadership positions in restaurants, coupled with her desire to see people of color represented in the wine industry, Tahiirah Habibi founded The Hue Society in 2017. The organization is dedicated to increasing Black, Brown and Indigenous representation in and access to the wine industry. “We amplify, educate and increase economic impact across the board.” A skilled entrepreneur, Habibi wanted to focus her efforts on giving back to the Black community, which has been historically underrepresented in wine: “The standards of this industry are polarizing for many of us; oftentimes we are not allowed to be ourselves. I created The Hue Society because of and despite those experiences—because I know that connections are healing.” While working as a sommelier at renowned restaurants, Habibi…

For many wine lovers in the United States and beyond, Domaines Ott rosé—in its iconic amphora-shaped bottle—influenced their impression of one of the essential products of Provence. The plurality of Domaines Ott is derived from three properties: historic Château Romassan in Bandol; Clos Mireille, a former monastery at La Londe Les Maures; and the windswept flagship Château de Selle in Taradeau. Whether someone tries Domaines Ott at a beach club in The Hamptons or at one of the three hospitable estates while traveling through Provence, fans appreciate that there’s substance built into these wines. “Domaines Ott has been producing rosé for more than 100 years,” says Cyprien Roy, communications manager at Maisons Marques & Domaines USA, Inc. representing Louis Roederer, owner of Domaines Ott. Though often credited for elevating…

Imagine being the guy who saw the whole sliced bread thing coming. That’s exactly where ReserveBar was in 2013, when founders Lindsay Held and Jeff Carton wanted to send some primo vodka to a college friend across the country, only to find, well, nothing after a thorough Google search. “It was a typical case of us just heading over to Google and searching for options to send vodka to our friend,” cofounder Held recalls of his and fellow founder Carton’s fruitless quest. “We kept finding random liquor stores across the country, but there was no centralized 1-800-Flowers delivery system for alcohol. We kept calling the stores, and there was no gift box option, no hand delivery. Quite frankly, it felt like we’d be lucky to even get it delivered.”…