Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2022 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL Emily Saladino SENIOR EDITOR, DIGITAL Dylan Garret DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT EDITOR, DIGITAL J’nai Gaither ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT Jacy Topps DIGITAL EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Jaime Brown DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams SENIOR TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Cody Wexler SOCIAL DIRECTOR OF SOCIAL MEDIA Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA STRATEGIST Marco Bruno COMMUNITY COORDINATOR Ruya Kirac CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Virginie Boone, Mike DeSimone, Jim Gordon, Paul Gregutt, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Jeff Jenssen, Matt Kettmann, Christina…

A symbol of ’70s and ’80s suburban culture, wine spritzers have a rich history. As Talia Baiocchi and Leslie Pariseau note in their 2016 book, Spritz, some believe the spritzer started as a way for beer-loving Austro-Hungarian soldiers based in the northeast of Italy to dilute the region’s wine with a “spritz” of still water, a term derived from the German spritzen, meaning “to spray.” “[But it] doesn’t really become the modern spritz until it gains its now-inseparable sparkle,” they wrote. The easy-drinking wine spritzer as we now largely know it really began in the early 1800s, when soda siphons that dispensed seltzer were developed. Italians soon added their native wine-based aperitifs and bitter liqueurs to the mix as well, leading to drinks like the iconic Aperol Spritz. Today, bartenders…

Rosés are not new in the wine world. Winemakers in countries like France and Italy have been making pink wine for centuries, and the style has garnered great reception in countless New World wine regions as well. Over the past decade, consumer infatuation with rosé has been on a meteoric rise, resulting in a pink wave of wines hitting the market from both classic and new wine-producing regions. With a portfolio of rosés that spans hemispheres and decades of winemaking experience under his belt, Roman Roth, partner and winemaker of Wölffer Estate, sat down with Wine Enthusiast to discuss his expanding pink-wine domain and give his insight on the latest rosé trends. Wölffer started producing pink wine long before it was trendy and 2022 marks your 30th year of…

With hues that span from a delicate carnation blush to a deep grapefruit-flesh glow, a new crop of distinctly pink Tequilas has arrived. Often called “rosa” or “rosado,” these expressions are mostly achieved by resting Tequila in casks that previously held red wines. While not a direct marriage of Tequila and rosé wine, the crossover is definitely part of the appeal. “People do indeed drink with their eyes,” says Richard Betts, cofounder of Casa Komos Beverage Group, which released Komos Tequila Reposado Rosa in 2021. The spirit was aged in a mix of wine barrels from Napa and Sonoma. Betts spotlights how the barrels from Hirsch Vineyards, known for its Pinot Noir, contributed layers of juicy berry and pink peppercorn against a lively agave backdrop. Yet, the rosé boom…

Centered around the wine region of Valle de Guadalupe, some of the most talked-about Mexican wines today are vinos espumosos—from long-aged traditional-method wines styled after Champagne, to minimal-intervention pét-nats. The region’s lack of appellation-based rules means there’s broad experimentation in terms of grapes and styles. “Every other region specializes in something, and we don’t focus on anything,” laughs Fer Parra, a chemist turned winemaker who’s been making sparkling wine since 2018 and launched the Pouya label in 2020. “But for me, I love it because I couldn’t do what I want to do if we had AVAs and all these regulations.” Mauricio Soler of Bodega Symmetria worked for Roederer Estate in California, as well as other wineries in Sonoma and Napa, before moving back to his native Baja California…

Low- and no-sugar wines, often marketed with a “better for you” positioning, aim to appeal to health-conscious wine lovers. Consumption of these wines can be tied to other movements, too, including keto, low-carb, organic and vegan diets. While almost every dry wine on the market is low in residual sugar, the wines that are labeled and marketed as low- or no-sugar are deliberately produced from vineyard to bottle with the aim of lowering the amount of sugar, carbohydrates and alcohol in each serving. The number of brands devoted to this mission seems to increase exponentially with each passing month, but it wasn’t always this way. Whether the trend was forecast by a savvy marketing team or developed in response to an observed need, low-sugar wines took time to bring to…

The world can’t seem to get enough Marlborough Sauvignon Blanc. The best examples from the last two vintages, 2020 and 2021, exemplify this popular style through bright fruit, mouthwatering acidity and a slippery texture. These traits are particularly welcome after much of the under-ripeness seen in the difficult ’17 and ’18 vintages. There’s only one problem: demand has outstripped supply. In 2021, New Zealand sold more wine than it made, forcing wineries to sell off stocks of previous vintages to meet demand in the international market. The U.S. is New Zealand’s largest export market and well-priced, high-quality Sauvignon Blanc still abounds. Why the shortage? The culprit is likely climate change. Marlborough is dry—too dry—and yields have been down since 2017. At the start of the 2021 vintage, Marlborough producers, entering…

GRÜNER VELTLINER 95 Prager 2020 Wachstum Bodenstein Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). This is crafted with laser precision, delivering inviting aromas that draw you into the glass, where flavors of dragon fruit, papaya, quince and lemon dance together harmoniously. Velvet and silk come to mind when you think of its texture, while the wet stone and quinine notes embrace the lasting finish. Best from 2024–2035. Winebow Imports. Cellar Selection. —A.Z. abv: 13% Price: $90 93 Prager 2020 Ried Achleiten Stockkultur Grüner Veltliner Smaragd (Wachau). This delicious white is ripe, but well balanced with a plethora of exotic aromas and flavors, including pine tree, clementine oranges, cardamom seeds, nectarine and passion fruit. It features a gorgeous texture that caresses the palate, yet the acidity gives it a bit of a crunch. The…

This month, we turn to a cultural phenomenon we could all use a little bit more of—the balanced lifestyle. Being fascinated by and enjoying the pleasures of wine is all well and good, but when should we pause and look at our habits holistically? Perhaps that means drinking differently, drinking less or taking a second look at where our next pour comes from. Everyone knows the old adage that life is all about balance. In this issue, we dive into exactly what that means in the modern landscape of today’s beverage shelves. To start, Contributing Editors Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen address a hot-button ingredient that’s in many of the goods we consume—sugar. It’s impossible to ignore the key role that sugar plays in wine, especially in the low- or…

The Roman poets Ovid and Virgil extolled its virtues as an aphrodisiac two millennia ago, but this brash green known as rucola in Italy and rocket among non-U.S. English speakers is a relative newcomer to American palates. Although arugula was brought to America by early European immigrants, it wasn’t until the 1990s that it gained culinary popularity. Added judiciously among lettuces in salad, it lends so much peppery personality that salad dressing is hardly needed, but it is revelatory when cooked. Try it stir-fried as you would spinach or chard, or even tucked into grilled cheese or a tuna melt. Choose a wine that won’t compete but will instead play with whatever side of arugula’s character you prefer. SPICY The hallmark of arugula is a peppery spice, much like…

Named after his grandmother, this apple cider vinegar cocktail is a lightly boozy rendition of a non-alcoholic wake-up staple of Brooklyn-based bartender Greg Floyd. “I was trying to take my morning routine to the brunch scene,” he says. Though this version includes a mezcal base, if you wish to skip the alcohol and hew to Floyd’s boozeless original, omit the spirit and use a non-alcoholic elderflower syrup in place of St-Germain. Floyd creates his own honey syrup by dissolving equal parts honey in hot water, then infusing the mixture overnight with cloves for an added dimension. MI NONIE Courtesy Greg Floyd, bartender at The Holler and head bartender at Farewell, Brooklyn, NY 1 ounce mezcal¾ ounce fresh lemon juice½ ounce apple cider vinegar½ ounce honey clove syrup½ ounce St-GermainSoda…

Brooklyn bar and restaurant Grand Army will soon list alcohol-by-volume (abv) percentages along with cocktail descriptions on its menus. While abv is standard information on beer and wine labels, and proof on spirit bottles is ever present, a potency listing is often absent when it comes to mixed drinks, with the assumption simply being that the result will likely pack a punch. “We go to bars because we want to be around people, but you don’t need to be drunk to do that,” says Damon Boelte, co-owner of Grand Army and cohost of The Speakeasy podcast. “Bars are about hospitality and fun and welcoming everyone and having something for everyone and not making them feel weird about it.” Across all major alcohol categories, there has been a renewed interest in…

CHARDONNAY 96 Mail Road 2018 Mt. Carmel Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Delicately lovely aromas of honeysuckle, lemon blossom, crisp apple and Asian pear invite the nose into this excellent bottling from an iconic vineyard. There’s an extremely chalky grip to the sip and yet generous flavors of coconut and pear. It’s fascinatingly expressive for being so tightly wound. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $100 95 Barden 2019 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). This is a deliciously engaging Chardonnay from every aspect, starting with the lovely hints of daffodil, peach and coconut on the nose, where a delicate buttercream scent also lingers. The palate balances opulence with chalky tension, offering brioche and vanilla at the core yet a zesty Meyer lemon edge and a dash of sea salt on the finish. —M.K.…

CORTON 98 Louis Latour 2019 Château Corton Grancey Grand Cru (Corton). Bracing tannins frame red-cherry and fresh strawberry flavors in this ripe yet svelte, focused wine. Youthful red-fruit flavors are hedonistic already but this subtly spiced Pinot Noir is perfumed by hints of forest floor and wild herb that should gain depth with time. It’s best to hold till 2024 at least. The wine should improve well through 2040. Louis Latour Inc. —A.I. abv: NA Price: $200 97 Domaine Antonin Guyon 2019 Clos du Roy Grand Cru (Corton). Sourced from the Clos du Roy parcel near the top of the slope of Corton, this Pinot Noir pulsates with flavors of sun-drenched strawberries and red cherries kissed by thyme and sage. Joyously fruity and silken in tannins, it’s seductive young but…

For those who have only tried bright blancos and honeyed reposados, añejo Tequilas can be a revelation. Aged between one and three years, añejos are particularly rich and complex. Time in the barrel yields plenty of vanilla, dried fruit and spice flavors, all meant to slow down and savor. Think of these as sipping Tequilas. Time in barrel yields plenty of vanilla, dried fruit and spice flavors, all mean to slow down and savor. Think of these as sipping Tequilas. And that’s just the starting point. Producers also are experimenting with aging Tequila in casks that previously held other liquids—some for the full duration of the aging process, others for briefer times as a novel finish. Wine lovers in particular will want to look to producers like Don Fulano, working…

Cocktails are a fantastic way to introduce saké to imbibers. Bartenders often incorporate saké into cocktails because it can breathe new life into classic drinks and introduce the category to those who might not have tried it on its own. Both clear and cloudy varieties are used to make delicious concoctions. In clear saké, its fermented solids have been completely removed from the liquid, leaving it free of sediment. With cloudy saké, also known as nigori, dissolved rice sediment is reintegrated into the clear saké which creates a rich, creamy mouthfeel. Nigori can help round out cocktails with sweet, sour or savory notes, especially useful for guests with dairy-free diets. “One of my favorite nigori cocktails includes gin, white vermouth, a hint of citrus and an herb sprig,” says…

Alcohol is the base of many skincare products, so it is only natural that spirits and wine are being incorporated into massages, body wraps and scrubs at spas around the world. “Alcoholic substances have nourishing, moisturizing and skin health-boosting properties,” says dermatologist Dr. Rachael Burns. Resveratrol in red wine has anti-aging properties, with antioxidants that replenish and revitalize the skin while inhibiting the development of excess pigmentation. Used on the skin, wine has toning, hydrating and regenerating qualities. “Grape seeds…contain vitamin C and vitamin E oil, which deeply moisturize the skin and flush out lingering toxins,” says Dr. Burns. In 1999, Les Sources de Caudalie, Caudalie’s first vinotherapy spa, opened on the grounds of Bordeaux icon Château Smith Haut Lafitte. Founded by Bertrand and Mathilde Thomas, the daughter of…

Healthy with healthy is always a good pairing, and this salad created by John Walker, cofounder and head brewer of Athletic Brewing Co., is just what’s called for on a detox day or anytime you’re in the mood for something light. It’s refreshing and vibrant yet amazingly rich, deep and complex. It’s also a stunner, as the beet bleeds into the mango and creates a beautiful rainbow effect on the dish. MANGO AND BEET SALAD Adapted from The Craft Brewery Cookbook by John Holl (Princeton Press, 2022) 2 medium beets, trimmed and scrubbed1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oilJuice of 1 lime1 garlic clove, crushed and peeled2 ripe Champagne mangoes, peeled, halved and cut into ¹⁄₈-inch slices¼ cup chopped fennel fronds Preheat oven to 350°F. Wrap beets in foil and roast…

PINOT NOIR 94 Élevée Winegrowers 2019 Departure Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). All four vineyards that are featured individually in Élevée’s “Study in Terroir” series contribute to this final blend. As is sometimes the case, the whole exceeds the sum of its parts. This is a complete and nuanced wine with a lush mix of red berries, citrusy acids, subtle barrel flavors of nutmeg and caramel and milk chocolate. It’s already drinking nicely and may be enjoyed over the rest of the decade. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $90 93 Élevée Winegrowers 2019 Meredith Mitchell Vineyard Pinot Noir (McMinnville). This captures the essence of this small AVA, with its minerally foundation and sharp, tight, crisp red fruits. Cranberry, wet stone, a touch of graphite and a firm, slatey base all…

CHIANTI CLASSICO GRAN SELEZIONE 95 Castello di Ama 2018 San Lorenzo Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). Smooth and delicious, this compelling red offers delicately enticing scents of dark-skinned fruit, pressed rose, violet and cedar. Boasting layers of flavor, the smooth palate is all about finesse, delivering ripe plum, spiced berries, licorice and crushed mint before a mocha close. Velvety tannins and fresh acidity provide seamless support and balance. Drink 2023–2033. The Sorting Table. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $60 94 Castello di Ama 2018 Vigneto La Casuccia Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). All about elegance, this fragrant red opens with aromas of cedar, dark spice, coffee bean and blue flower. Linear and polished, the palate is still rather youthfully austere, featuring juicy black cherry, cassis and licorice framed in fine-grained tannins. Drink 2026–2031.…

Despite its name, there is no lactose in a cream ale. What it does have is a smooth mouthfeel and endless refreshment. The style was created as an ale to compete with lagers, with the aim being an easy drinking beer that delivers on crispness but shows a creamy character. Often, classic examples are called “lawnmower beers” because of how good they taste after a long day doing hard work in the hot sun. Simplicity is a calling card of this style, with the ingredients working in harmony and not competing for attention. Visually, the ale should be clear and ranging from straw in color to golden, with a minimal head but robust carbonation on the mouthfeel. The grainbill is dominant in flavor and aroma, often with simple cereal grain…