Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2022 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER EXECUTIVE EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR, DIGITAL Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT EDITOR, DIGITAL J’nai Gaither ASSISTANT EDITOR, PRINT Jacy Topps DIGITAL EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Jaime Brown DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Cody Wexler SOCIAL SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno COMMUNITY COORDINATOR Ruya Kirac CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Virginie Boone, Mike DeSimone, Jim Gordon, Paul Gregutt, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Jeff Jenssen, Matt Kettmann, Christina Pickard,…

Wine Enthusiast’s 22nd annual Wine Star Awards took place on Monday, February 7 at the Nobu Eden Roc Hotel in Miami Beach. The black-tie gala honored the individuals and companies that significantly contributed to the success of the drinks world and celebrated their achievements in one of the most challenging years in an ever-changing landscape. The event began with an outdoor cocktail reception where guests tasted wines from various winners as well as a cocktail created by Spirit Brand of the Year Disaronno, and an array of offerings from High Noon Sun Sips, inaugural winner of the Beverage Brand of the Year Award. Following the reception, the awards ceremony kicked off with inspirational remarks from Wine Enthusiast Chairman and CEO Adam Strum. “Tonight’s honorees have remained successful through unprecedented…

This tropical drink calls for exactly one spirit, Mexico’s mezcal, backed by a vibrant array of fruit. A key component here is sour orange juice, also called bitter orange juice. It’s made from thick-skinned varieties, which include Seville, Chinotto and Bergamot, that are frequently used to make marmalade, sauces and chutneys, and even liqueurs. Look for commercial brands like Badia or Goya, or approximate the acidic tang by mixing equal parts sweet orange and lime juices. THE GUAVABONGA Courtesy Victor Guerrero, bartender at Andaz Mayakoba, Playa del Carmen, Mexico 1 ½ ounces Mezcal Amaras (Espadín)2 ounces guava jam1 ounce sour orange juice1 ounce pineapple juice½ ounce lemon juice2 dashes orange bittersPineapple wedge, for garnishMint sprig, for garnish Shake all ingredients except garnish with ice, then double strain into an…

California-based Jamie Evans, also known as The Herb Somm, is well known in the cannabis space thanks to her informative and educational events, website and two books, The Ultimate Guide to CBD: Explore the World of Cannabidiol and Cannabis Drinks: Secrets to Crafting CBD and THC Beverages at Home. Earlier this year, Evans, who holds a wine business degree from Cal Poly San Luis Obispo and has over a decade of wine industry experience, launched Herbacée, a cannabis-infused non-alcoholic wine. Available in both bottle and can, the brand’s first offering is the Sparkling Rosier, made primarily from Grenache, Mourvèdre and Cinsault; a Sparkling Blanchette is set for spring release. Evans sources the base wine from throughout California, taking out the alcohol to infuse a proprietary blend of THC and…

JOHN OLSEN Avery Brewing Company Avery Brewing Company first opened its doors in 1993. John Olson, Avery’s product development and innovation lead, notes that the tap room and restaurant always have some 30 beers on tap, “so no matter what you’re in the mood for, we’re going to have an awesome beer waiting for you.” When Olson isn’t at the brewery, he enjoys being outside. “I love skiing, camping and playing golf whenever I get the chance,” says Olson. “There are so many incredible camping options throughout the state of Colorado, many of which are right in Boulder’s backyard, so finding new spots to spend a night or two and hike around during the day has been an awesome way to get outside and enjoy the amazing scenery here.” One of…

Whether the perfumed, chiseled Pinot Noir of Chambolle-Musigny, or the steely Chardonnay of Chablis, Burgundy’s classic wines are icons of typicity. These are wines that are so distinctive, they could only come from Burgundy. Notions of terroir—the unique soil, topography and climate of each vineyard—and a wine’s typicity, or how faithfully it reflects its origin and grape variety, are central to Burgundy’s identity. So much so that terroir and typicity are fundamental to how the region developed its hierarchy of crus, or demarcated vineyards also known as climats, classified by quality based on centuries of winegrowing history. Climate is a large part of what defines terroir, and Burgundy is one of the world’s great archetypes for cool-climate viticulture. Whether red or white, classic Burgundian wines are distinguished by their finesse,…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Associate Managing Editor, Print Layla Schlack, Associate Managing Editor, Digital Emily Saladino, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen, Aleksandar Zecevic and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single…

2016 VINTAGE 100 Conti Costanti 2016 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). For full review see page 81. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $220 99 Fuligni 2016 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). For full review see page 81. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $225 98 Biondi-Santi 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. Aromas of rose petal, dark spice, woodland berries and camphor form the nose on this fragrant, elegant wine. Loaded with finesse, the linear, savory palate features red cherry, orange zest, star anise and black tea alongside tightly wound, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it impeccably balanced. It’s still youthfully austere, with fantastic aging potential. Drink 2026–2041. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $249 97 Canalicchio di Sopra 2016 Riserva (Brunello di Montalcino). Ripe black-skinned fruit, violet, truffle and new leather…

CHARDONNAY 97 Patrick Sullivan 2019 Millstream Chardonnay (Gippsland). This wine is from a vineyard that sits at the base of Mount Baw Baw in Victoria’s Gippsland region. Aromas are raw, heady and gorgeous: praline, grapefruit, orange peel, honeysuckle and salt. It slips and slides over the tongue, then crunches with acidity, the finish long and citrusy. Made so solidly, it will last open in bottle for many days—if you can stand not to drink it all in one go. Legend Wines. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $80 96 Joshua Cooper 2018 The Old Port Righ Vineyard Chardonnay (Macedon Ranges). This is a stellar example of modern Aussie Chardonnay from a small producer in the cool climes of Victoria’s Macedon Ranges. It’s bright with verve and concentration, the pineapple and lemon rind,…

RIESLING 91 Glenora 2019 Reserve Semi-Dry Riesling (Seneca Lake). There’s depth in spades in this semidry Riesling, showing ripe lemon, apple and peach against delicate seams of honey and sliced radish. It’s concentrated and juicy on the palate, met with a smack of tart peach acidity to lend ample balance. —A.P. abv: 10.6% Price: $19 91 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards 2019 Homestead Reserve Riesling (Finger Lakes). For full review see page 100. abv: 13% Price: $23 91 Keuka Spring 2020 Humphrey’s Vineyard Riesling (Finger Lakes). There’s depth and intensity to the aromas of ripe apple, peach and lemon iced tea on the nose. The palate shows a gentle, rounded texture yet still maintains tension and grip, with pithy lemon lifting it all up while juicy orchard-fruit flavors linger on the finish.…

For most of 2020, I hardly left my Florida apartment for any reason other than to get my mail. Food was delivered, work was done online and any socializing happened on FaceTime or Zoom. Eventually, though, between prolonged isolation and discouraging news reports, it was time to send out an SOS and treat myself to some good wines. As a former wine importer, I was jonesing for the Olaszrizling and Kékfrankos wines and others I’d enjoyed during my travels to Hungary, but where to find them in Florida? Although local shops delivered, no Hungarian bottles were on hand. Wine club ads all over Instagram and Facebook offered some hope, but they chose the wines I’d get, and most were domestic. No friends, nowhere to go, no wine—someone had to…

WILLAMETTE VALLEY Early winemakers in this Oregon region selected it for similarities to Burgundy, and in fact, Chardonnay has been planted here for about 30 years. While the region’s Pinot Noir star was rising, producers were quietly working on clone and site selection to create the best Chardonnays they could. And it worked. Today’s Willamette Valley Chardonnays lie somewhere between a racy, mineral-driven Chablis and an unctuous, buttery Cali Chard. The best of these bottlings show structure and minerality like you might expect from Burgundy, with the bright and vivid fruit of an American wine. Prices generally range from $30 to up over $100, with many bottles showing impressive ageability. PUGLIA Known more for red wines made from indigenous grapes, Puglia’s Chardonnay history dates back to the 1990s. According to…

Over the years, writers and distillers have debated whether the concept of “terroir” can be applied to spirits, given that distillation typically strips a lot of nuances away. However, recent projects have demonstrated the impact of microclimate and soil on various spirit expressions. With these terroir-driven spirits, the proof is in the bottle—and on the palate. Barley Wine Waterford Whisky Waterford Whisky, an Irish “barley-forward” spirit, partnered with Oregon State University to demonstrate that barley from different farms had distinct properties by lab-testing single-farm expressions. Additionally, on each label you will find the name of the farmer and a code to access valuable information, including the weather the day of harvest. Desert Bloom Flor del Desierto Sotol Made from a wild succulent related to agave, Sotol is on the next-big-thing-in-Mexican-spirits…

In her first cookbook, Catskills-based Alexis deBoschnek focuses on minimizing food waste by using tossed-off ingredients like carrot tops and pie dough scraps. She tops this spring recipe with shaved salt-cured egg yolk, a Chinese technique she adopted to use leftover yolks. Here, we take her suggestion of using Parmesan cheese as an alternative. BLISTERED ASPARAGUS AND PEAS WITH PARMESAN Adapted from To The Last Bite, by Alexis deBoschnek (Simon & Schuster, 2022) 2 tablespoons fresh-squeezed lemon juice2 teaspoons whole grain mustard4 tablespoons olive oil1 pound asparagus, ends removed1 cup fresh or frozen (thawed) peas½ spoon kosher salt½ cup finely grated Parmesan cheese In a small bowl, whisk together lemon juice, mustard and 2 tablespoons olive oil. Set aside. Add remaining olive oil to a large pan (not non-stick) and…

The Anything-But-Chardonnay movement was a direct response to the late-20th-century rise of flabby, overoaked, high-alcohol Chardonnays. Two decades later, the ABC sentiment is alive and well, even though the prevailing style today, at least for the wines I review from California’s Central Coast, is tight and racy, driven by fresh citrus flavors and chalky textures. I spend a lot of my time educating the Anything-Butters about the zippy wonders of these “new” vibrant Chardonnays. Though many express doubt at first, my conversion rate is happily high. All Chardonnay needn’t be made the same, and there remains a seat at my table for rich, oaky Chardonnay, which is still plentiful. To me, their butterscotch-drizzled, seared marshmallow, honeysuckle-laden flavors are the embodiment of comfort in your cup. Few white wines go…

RED WINES BEIRA INTERIOR 93 Rui Roboredo Madeira 2019 Beyra Grande Reserva (Beira Interior). This is a grand, wood-aged wine. It is still rich in tannins and black fruits, concentrated with a firm core. Still young, it shows vibrant acidity as well as layers of dark chocolate and spice. Drink from 2024. Sadly, the heavy bottle brigade strikes again. MS Walker. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $39 92 Rui Roboredo Madeira 2018 Beyra Vinha da Santa Maria Tinta Roriz (Beira Interior). From the far-eastern mountains of Portugal, the wine shows a strong minerality from the granite soil. This is allied with the wine’s concentrated black-plum flavors and spice from wood aging. Drink this single-vineyard wine from 2023. MS Walker. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $44 91 Rui Roboredo Madeira 2018…

FURMINT 91 Royal Tokaji 2019 The Oddity Dry Furmint (Tokaji). This medium straw-colored wine has aromas of lemon curd and gooseberry. It is well balanced in the midpalate with flavors of lemon curd and bright lemon pith. It has nice minerality and a crisp finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.J. abv: 13% Price: $17 90 Royal Tokaji 2018 Duloválogatás Vineyard Selection Furmint (Tokaji). This wine has aromas of lemon curd and lemon grass. It is zesty on entry, with a strong mineral backbone, and flavors of lemon pith and grapefruit. It is well balanced and has a crisp, clean finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 HÁRSLEVELŰ 90 Benedek 2020 Öregtőkék Hárslevelű (Mátra). This medium straw-colored wine is made from 50-year-old vines. It has aromas of guava, quince and…

PINOT NOIR 97 Hirsch 2019 Block 8 Pinot Noir (Sonoma Coast). From a part of the estate planted in 1993 in iron-rich soils, this wine is powerfully graceful, delicate and complex. White pepper, stem and strong tannin structure provide a savory seriousness that is lifted and lengthened by intensively focused acidity and mineral-like wisps of stone and sea. —V.B. abv: 13.7% Price: $105 96 Au Bon Climat 2019 Bien Nacido Vineyard Pinot Noir (Santa Maria Valley). A lighter shade in the glass, this bottling from the vineyard that surrounds this winery pops on the nose with tart pomegranate, eucalyptus-leaf, crushed cement and forest-floor aromas. The palate is vivid with minty herbs that weave through the brisk raspberry flavors, as hints of game add to the complexity and arrive at a…

Whether mixed into drinks or sipped straight, vodka remains the top-selling spirit category by almost every measure (although tequila and whiskey continue to nip at its heels). Prized for its clarity and relative lack of aroma and flavor, evaluating vodkas can be a particular challenge. The big question: Is the spirit at its best when it’s as pristine and neutral as possible, or when it shows more personality? The answer: At both ends of the spectrum, from neutral to nuanced, vodka can shine. Is the spirit at its best when it’s as pristine and neutral as possible, or when it shows more personality? One of the most interesting experiments in vodka right now is going on at American Liquor Co., which creates a spirits that’s a blend of vodkas made…

One of the world’s most versatile grapes, wine drinkers tend to either love or hate Chardonnay. For those with a negative perception, it’s usually because their first introduction was a cheap, mass-produced version that tasted like imitation popcorn butter. But Chardonnay can take many forms, from delicate sparklers to still wines that run the gamut from crisp and steely to robust and round. While many Americans connect Chardonnay to California, its roots are in Burgundy, France. Expressions vary as a result of the area’s range in climate, from cool northerly Chablis to more moderate temperatures in the Mâconnais to the south. Burgundian winemakers paved the way for practices like malolactic fermentation and barrel aging that tend to give Chardonnay a full-bodied, oaky and buttery texture. Those techniques found their way…

SWEET Cashews’ sweetness is subtle, so instead of pairing with a sweet wine, try a white that merely hints at sweetness. Malagousia is a Greek grape variety that yields dry wines that are seductively aromatic with roses, peaches and tropical fruits. It’s an unusual and delicious match. SALTY Cashews are usually roasted and salted to bring out their full flavor. Txakoli, a very dry and slightly fizzy wine from Spain’s Basque country, acts as a refreshing counterpoint to cashews, while contributing a similar saline tang. It’s a great alternative to beer with nuts. BUTTERY You’d think that the buttery quality of cashews would pair well with an oaked wine, but too much oak can overwhelm their delicacy. Sparkling Crémant d’Alsace cuts through the nut’s richness but offers ripe fruit and,…

For centuries, dandelions have been prized for their medicinal qualities, often consumed in the form of dandelion wine or tea to aid in digestion. In New England, there’s a long tradition of drinking dandelion wine as an early-spring medicinal tonic. But until recently, any beverages made with dandelions weren’t all that enjoyable to drink. Every year during the flower’s peak bloom, usually in April or May, Raphael Lyon of Enlightenment Wines Meadery assembles a team that travels from the Brooklyn meadery to a farm in the Hudson Valley, where they pluck fresh dandelions from the ground. Since 2009, he’s made Memento Mori, a dandelion mead that combines wildflower honey, orange peel and fresh dandelion flowers, which bring dry, bitter notes to the beverage. But Lyon cares about more than…

The most widely grown red grape in Spain, Tempranillo is cultivated in almost every wine region in the country. It derives its name from the Spanish word for early, temprano, because it ripens a couple of weeks prior to other red grapes that are its frequent blending partners. Spain has strict aging requirements for its iconic Tempranillo-based wines from select appellations. From youngest to oldest, they are joven, crianza, reserva and gran reserva, each with specific aging minimums in barrel and bottle. The aging requirements provide a guideline to consumers on the final style of a wine. The aging requirements provide a guideline to consumers on the final style of a wine. Reds from Rioja are often dominated by Tempranillo, with Mazuelo, Garnacha and Graciano sometimes included in the final…

GEWURZTRAMINER 93 Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2019 Hengst Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Lemon verbena and lychee on the nose of this wine lead into a round, smooth and weighty palate. It offers intriguing rose notes as well as the bright lychee you’re looking for. This wine drinks clean and floral, with a long lemon-drop finish. Petit Pois. —L.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $48 92 Domaine Barmès-Buecher 2019 Steingrubler Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Classic and saturated lychee aromas pop out of the glass and soak into the palate of this wine. Bright acidity balances light sweetness, and grassy dill completes the picture. This wine is intense, rich and completely satisfying. Petit Pois. Editors’ Choice. —L.S. abv: 13% Price: $42 92 Domaine Charles Baur 2018 Pfersigberg Grand Cru Gewurztraminer (Alsace). Lychee fragrance carries a hint…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 90 Dalton 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). This wine has a nose of cherry cola and olive tapenade. It is dark red-purple to the eye, with flavors of black cherry, dark plum, bittersweet chocolate and thyme. There is a nice interplay of acidity and grippy tannins that holds on into the violet-laced finish. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. —M.D. abv: 14.5% Price: $35 89 Dalton 2019 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). This wine has aromas of berry preserves and black pepper. It feels well balanced on the palate, with flavors of blackberry, black cherry, vanilla, violet and anise. Plush tannins soften towards the licorice-infused finish. Kosher. Allied Importers, USA, Ltd. —M.D. abv: 14% Price: $20 89 Dalton 2019 Estate M Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Violet red to the eye, this…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 95 Passing Time 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Discovery Vineyard (55%) takes the lead on this wine, followed by Champoux (25%) and Wallula (20%). Blended with Merlot (10%) and Cabernet Franc (5%), this Cabernet Sauvignon has aromas that are arresting, with notes of dried and fresh herbs, along with cocoa, bittersweet chocolate, currant and scorched earth. It’s polished and palate coating, while showing the deftness and grace of the vintage. The tannins bring a classic Horse Heaven profile—plump but refined. It gains additional heft as it opens. Best from 2029–2036. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $85 94 Mark Ryan 2018 Lonely Heart Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). For full review see page 87. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.8% Price: $95 94 Passing Time 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Walla Walla…

Expressions of artful balance, brown ales are a style that is well suited for nearly every drinking situation. Still, it lags in popularity behind other darker colored beers like stout and porter. Those two styles, however, lean more heavily into roasted malt flavor, where brown ales are about nuance and working in harmony with hops. The style is broken down into several different categories. All are similar but offer subtle differences that may suit some palates over others. As the name suggests, the color of this ale is brown, sometimes tan or chestnut. Garnet highlights can be seen in clear versions around the rim of a glass and the foam is typically off-white or tan. The best examples of the style are a combination of traditional ingredients that work in…