Innholdsfortegnelse for Best of 2021 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack ASSISTANT EDITOR Jacy Topps TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Cody Wexler DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR J’nai Gaither DIGITAL EDITORIAL ASSISTANT Jaime Brown DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena SOCIAL SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Virginie Boone, Mike DeSimone, Jim Gordon, Paul Gregutt, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Jeff Jenssen, Matt Kettmann, Christina…

“It’s like the holy grail, to make wines that age, that you can enjoy 20, 30 or 40 years later,” says Rick Small, who founded Woodward Canyon Winery with his wife Darcey in Lowden, Washington, in 1981. Since then, the pair have created some of Washington State’s most ageworthy wines, with their children Jordan Dunn-Small and Sager Small recently taking the helm. Many winemakers strive to create wines that stand the test of time. It’s a difficult endeavor that requires certain conditions in the vineyard and winery, some of which are beyond winemakers’ immediate control. “The wine has to have the right amount of fruit, it has to have the right amount of acidity, and it has to have the right amount of tannin,” says Small. “That’s going to all…

Champagne houses used to ferment their base wines in oak barrels, which enhanced ageability and added richness, creaminess and notes of coconut and vanilla. This practice had all but ended by the 1950s, however. Most producers—with the exception of Krug and Bollinger—abandoned the practice in favor of stainless steel, a lower-maintenance option that was easier to clean and decreased evaporation loss. But just like splayed furniture legs, geometric patterns and other hallmarks of midcentury design, oak-fermented Champagne is in style once again. “The breath that oak provides leads to a more robust…finished product and contributes to better aging and less variation during reasonable cellar times,” says Amy Troutmiller, wine consultant and founder and CEO of Common Fuel Consulting. She says if you relish well-aged Burgundy or Sauternes but tend…

Paul Hobbs, who has spent the past four decades hopscotching hemispheres to consult with winegrowers, owns and makes wine at his own label in Sebastopol, California, and in 2011, he set his eyes on the Finger Lakes. “I grew up Niagara County,” Hobbs says of his New York State upbringing. “I carried it with me, even to where I settled in Sebastopol, where you get fog and a much cooler climate than the rest of region. I loved the idea of returning to my roots, but also making wine grown in an ultracold climate.” In 2014, Hobbs planted on Seneca Lake after a long search for the ideal plot. “I wanted to plant it like the Romans did in the Mosel,” Hobbs explains. “Up and down the slope. In…

Wedged between Austria and Switzerland in the Dolomite mountains, Alto Adige is Italy’s northernmost wine producing area and turns out some of the country’s most lauded whites. Part of the Trentino-Alto Adige region, the province belonged to the Austro-Hungarian Empire until it was annexed to Italy after World War I. Both Italian and German are spoken here, which is also called Südtirol (South Tyrol in English). Alto Adige’s radiant wines express their mountain setting. Thanks to varied soils and microclimates ranging from almost Mediterranean in the south to windy, steep slopes in the north, the denomination’s dazzling wines boast elegance, energy and depth. Top bottlings also have structure and impressive aging potential. In the late 1970s, Alto Adige was geared toward red wine production led by native varieties Vernatsch (a…

In 2021, we mark the 22nd anniversary of Wine Enthusiast’s Annual Wine Star Awards, honoring the individuals and companies that have significantly contributed to the success of the wine and alcohol beverage world. In a challenging and evolving landscape, we salute the dedicated professionals and progressive thinkers who have shown drive and resilience. From winemakers to wineries, sommeliers to CEOs, innovators and social visionaries, each winner has balanced business acumen with vision and made steps to evolve the future of wine and alcohol beverage. Nominated by members of our global sales, events, marketing and editorial divisions with final selections made by our executive publishing team, winners will be honored at our black-tie gala in February 2022. For details on the event and further insight on our selection process, visit winemag.com/WSAwinners2021.…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Associate Managing Editor of Print Layla Schlack, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following…

MALBEC 94 Bodega Catena Zapata 2017 Nicasia Vineyard Malbec (Paraje Altamira). Ripe and rich aromas of wild berry, cassis, cured meats and animal hide are smoky and slightly baked. The palate on this single-vineyard Malbec is chewy and deep, even a bit chunky. Sun-baked flavors of blackberry and cassis hint at raisin in front of a chocolaty finish with nicely toasted oak notes. Enjoy through 2027. MundoVino–Winebow. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: NA Price: $120 93 Bodega Catena Zapata 2017 Catena Alta Historic Rows Malbec (Mendoza). Smoky black plum, blueberry and blackberry aromas are fully ripe, almost a bit soft, with background notes of cardamom and fenugreek. On the palate, this Malbec from a dry year with small yields is creamy and full bodied. Max ripe flavors of cassis and black…

BARBARESCO 98 Gaja 2018 Barbaresco. Fragrant and loaded with extraordinary finesse, this radiant red offers intense aromas of rose, violet, perfumed berry and camphor. The savory palate boasts flavor, energy and almost ethereal elegance, featuring red cherry, raspberry compote and baking spice alongside taut, polished tannins. It closes on a note of star anise while vibrant acidity keeps it impeccably balanced. It’s already enjoyable but will also offer years of fine wining. Drink through 2033. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $260 97 Castello di Neive 2018 Santo Stefano Albesani (Barbaresco). For full review see page 171. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 96 Albino Rocca 2017 Angelo (Barbaresco). Aromas of iris, ripe dark-skinned berries and truffle mingle with ground clove on this smooth, compelling red. On the delicious,…

For the gift-giving season, single malt Scotch often tops wish lists. Compared to blended Scotch, the single malt category—that is, Scotch made by a single distillery, using only malted barley, yeast and water, in a pot still—is considered more rare and often is regarded as a status symbol. Indeed, many of the newest single malt releases are limited editions, and with that can come a hefty price tag. These recently reviewed selections also span in age range from five years old, like the Ardbeg Wee Beastie, to five decades, as in a pair of special editions from The Last Drop. It’s part of an ongoing project to age Islay Scotch in barrels sourced from famous Bordeaux estates. For those who love both whisky and wine, take note: Two top scorers…

AS my boyfriend and I savored a recent dinner at Alinea in Chicago, we discussed how each wine played off of the sumptuous course in front of us. Debating if the Tempranillo or Riesling had been the best was a far cry from our early days of wine consumption. Early in our relationship, a date had to be canceled. I decided to send him a bottle of wine, a way to at least make the evening memorable. I scrolled through the limited selection at the grocery store with my even more limited knowledge and picked out a bottle of Apothic Crush, a $9 red blend that I recognized drinking with a friend. I sent it off with a note to keep the bottle and we would drink it together…

As the year comes to a close, we revel in the paradox that was 2021. Moments of joy and celebration were bookended by fear and trepidation. We felt a return to comfort while welcoming the strange new world we find ourselves in today. It’s these diverging times that we see mirrored in our glass. Our final issue of the year dives deep into some of those enigmatic meetings in the vineyard and how they can make for an even more delicious future. In the outer reaches of Portugal’s Douro Superior, new varieties are taking root and taming the wild terroir to their benefit (page 114). In Sonoma, a region once defined by the “new,” takes a nod from the “old” ways in the French Monopole method of controlling every…

A LITTLE SPARKLE As 2021 draws to a close, we’re celebrating with the very finest. In this issue, you’ll find our Wine Star Award winners and our Best of Year bottles. When it comes to bubbly, Italy’s metodo classicos are right up there. Turn the page to learn more.>> ON THE WILD SIDE Lessini Durello’s growing zone lies on the border between the Verona and Vicenza provinces in the Veneto region. Overlapping part of the Soave denomination, the wine is named after the Lessini mountain range. Durella, a rare, native grape, thrives in the range’s steep, wild eastern hills. The high-altitude, well-ventilated vineyards benefit from full southern exposures, while sharp day-night temperature changes generate complexity. Composed of basalt rock and tuffs containing iron and magnesium, the area’s volcanic soils lend…

The latest cookbook from America’s Test Kitchen features easy five-ingredient recipes (not including oil, salt and pepper) that are full of creativity and flavor. Salmon and Pinot Noir has become a new classic pairing, elevating this simple one-pan meal from a weeknight standby to a special occasion. (Tip: If you can’t find broccoli rabe, try wedges of escarole or radicchio.) SHEET PAN SALMON AND BROCCOLI RABE WITH PISTACHIO GREMOLATA Adapted from Five-Ingredient Dinners: 100+ Fast, Flavorful Meals, by America’s Test Kitchen (2021) 1 lemon¼ cup shelled roasted pistachios, chopped fine2 tablespoons minced parsley1 pound broccoli rabe, trimmed and cut into 1½-inch lengths3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil4 skinless 1-inch-thick salmon fillets (6 to 8 ounces each)¾ teaspoon salt½ teaspoon ground black pepper Heat oven to 450˚F. Zest lemon until you have…

The French word for a monopoly, monopole, refers to a vineyard site from which one producer sources grapes exclusively, a place where no one else has access to make wine. These aren’t common in California. Given its relative youth vis-à-vis other renowned growing regions of the world, Sonoma is not a place where it’s typical for generations of one family to own a piece of land over centuries and continuously plant and farm it to wine grapes. Of course, when it comes to making wine, the monopole estate model is just one approach. Another approach is to lease land from someone else, which can be close to having an estate. The third approach is to buy grapes from someone else’s vineyard. The Monopole Comes to California When Ambassador James D.…

ONLINE EXCLUSIVES AUSSIE REDS From Pinot Noir to Shiraz and Cabernet Sauvignon, explore Australia’s range of tasty reds. GO FOR GEWURZ Try classic examples of Gewurztraminer from its spiritual home in Alsace, France. POP SOME BUBBLES Look no further than vintage Champagne for all your celebratory needs. FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT WINEMAG.COM/RATINGS THIS MONTH 170 CALIFORNIA 200 OREGON 204 WASHINGTON 206 ARGENTINA 208 NEW ZEALAND 210 ALSACE 212 BURGUNDY 217 CHAMPAGNE 220 LANGUEDOC 221 PIEDMONT 223 SOUTHERN ITALY 226 PORTUGAL 230 SPIRITS 231 BEER…

PINOT NOIR 97 The Eyrie Vineyards 2018 The Eyrie Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). For full review see page 172. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $85 96 The Eyrie Vineyards 2016 The Eyrie South Block Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). This storied wine put Oregon on the map back about four decades ago. From a special plot of the original vineyard these half century old, phylloxera-ravaged vines don’t have much farther to go, so this is a real treasure. Amazing scents and flavor details of pork belly, mountain berries, chamomile tea, earth, cannabis, bay leaf,… well, you get the idea. Immensely dense and inviting, this exceptional old vine effort is a treasure not to be missed. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.8% Price: $250 95 Antiquum Farm 2019 Juel Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley).…

NONVINTAGE 95 Krug NV Grande Cuvée 169ème Edition Brut (Champagne). Pinot richness dominates this Champagne. It gives the dense texture as well as the ripe white fruits that show signs of toastiness as they mature. This full-bodied Champagne is ready to drink. Moët Hennessy USA. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $195 95 Lanson NV Le Black Label Réserve Brut (Champagne). Extra aging has given this Champagne a toasty character. It also has the typical Lanson steely edge that gives great structure and freshness at the end. Drink now. Terlato Wines International. —R.V. abv: 12.5% Price: $70 94 Chanoine NV Tsarine Cuvée Orium Extra Brut (Champagne). This ripe, creamy wine is an equal blend of the three major Champagne grapes. Showing a touch of maturity, the wine is moving easily from fresh…

FIANO 95 Feudi di San Gregorio 2018 Sacconi (Fiano di Avellino). Smoky and mineral driven, this compelling white opens with aromas of flint, ripe stone fruit, spring blossoms and Mediterranean scrub. All about finesse and energy, the savory, dry palate delivers ripe yellow apple, pear, honeyed almond and graphite mineral notes set against fresh acidity. Loaded with racy mineral tension, it shows its volcanic origins. Terlato Wines International. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $60 95 Feudi di San Gregorio 2018 Studi Morandi (Fiano di Avellino). Spring blossom, ripe white stone fruit and warm hay aromas make their way to the forefront along with a whiff of chestnut honey. The rounded palate offers pear, hazelnut, graphite and citrus set against tangy acidity. This is another one of the Studi whites that shows…

There is a lot to love about the obsession brewers have with barrels. Over the last 25 years, having a “barrel program” for American brewers has become a badge of honor and expected by consumers. Seeing a rack (or more) of barrels in a brewery these days is commonplace, but the liquid itself is not. Wooden barrels, sometimes American oak, sometimes French, can be sourced from any number of locations. However, the traditions of the bourbon industry, where barrels are only used once, have aided brewers the most. The inclusion of imperial stouts, barleywine, Belgian-style ales or lagers in these barrels usually change the whiskey flavor enough that sits in the background and becomes a platform for the actual beer to shine. Whiskey remains the most popular, but wine, Sherry,…

PINKNIC This rosé-themed festival returned to New York City’s Governor’s Island in September, for its fifth year. Over the course of Labor Day Weekend, the island was decked out in pink. Audiences were treated to DJs, live bands and a food garden catered by local restaurants. The rosé, frosé, bubbly and cocktails all flowed freely, and evenings culminated in pink fireworks displays. WESTCHESTER MAGAZINE’S WINE & FOOD FESTIVAL This event returned for its 10th year, over the course of five days in September. A variety of wine events around Westchester County, New York, gave attendees the opportunity to sample local restaurants, attend seminars about Italian wine, pair burgers and beer, or attend an exclusive collectors’ dinner.…

This playful mash-up of the Espresso Martini and White Russian—originally called The Mocha Joe, based on a character in the TV show Curb Your Enthusiasm—celebrates the delicious intersection of chocolate, coffee and vodka. “I love mochas,” says Aaron Boyle, bar manager at Cincinnati cocktail bar Comfort Station, who created the drink. “I have such a sweet tooth, but a bittersweet tooth, loving dark chocolate and stuff.” He skips cream in favor of chocolate oat milk and adds orange bitters to “brighten the coffee and espresso notes,” creating a festive chocolate-orange effect. THE MOCHA RUSSIAN Courtesy of Aaron Boyle, bar manager, Comfort Station, Cincinnati ¾ ounce vodka, preferably Ketel One¾ ounce coffee-flavored vodka, preferably Van Gogh Double Espresso Vodka½ ounce coffee liqueur, preferably St. George NOLA Coffee Liqueur1½ ounces chocolate…

♦ NUTTY Cheddar’s nuttiness becomes more pronounced as it ages. This characteristic suggests both sweetness and salt, which a sweet wine (or a malt-driven beer) complements perfectly. Sweet Jurançon from Southwest France has honey and spice notes that turn a wedge of cheddar into a luscious dessert. ♦ MILKY Young cheddar melts like a dream, which is why it’s so popular in mac ‘n’ cheese, grilled sandwiches, Welsh rarebit and fondue. With gooey dishes like these, reach for the bubbles, preferably an English sparkling wine to pay homage to cheddar’s original home. ♦ EARTHY Aged cheddar is as powerfully flavored as Roquefort, Pecorino or aged Gouda, and calls for an equally powerful wine. Enter Montefalco Sagrantino, an inky Umbrian wine with jammy black fruit and tingly tannins. Fans of cheddar…

End-of-year gatherings and get togethers are good excuses for stocking up on bubbles, both foreign and domestic. Dozens of new releases from Napa and Sonoma-based producers—many of whom are pioneers who devoted themselves to sparkling wine production—prove that there are choices beyond Old World options. Producers in Napa and Sonoma are aiming ever higher to both farm and source from the right sites. Schramsberg in Calistoga owes its present-day success to the visionary risk-taking of Jack and Jamie Davies, who bought the historic property in 1965 with the express aim of making world-class traditional method sparkling wine from California grapes. The winery continues to refine its grape sourcing and is making vineyard-designated and vintage-dated wines that impress. That includes the 2016 Hyde Vineyards Blanc de Blancs from the coveted Carneros…

SYRAH 94 Liminal 2019 High Canyon Series WeatherEye Vineyard Syrah (Red Mountain). The second vintage from a new site, this is a wine that immediately impresses, with aromas of huckleberry, marionberry, herbs and flowers, showing dazzling purity. Soft, achingly pure fruit flavors follow. The balance is spot-on. This one is all about sophistication. It’s only going to get better with additional time in the bottle. Drink after 2024, with a long life ahead of that. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.9% Price: $80 92 Devison 2019 Phantom Lamb Syrah (Royal Slope). The Royal Slope is quickly establishing itself as a premier site for Syrah. This is another example. The aromas boast notes of smoked meat, savory herb, coffee, graphite, medicine and dark fruit. Full flavors follow, combining fruit and barrel, with…

BLANQUETTE DE LIMOUX 91 Antech 2016 M Le Mauzac Brut (Blanquette de Limoux). Orchard fruit and fresh-dried hay form the bouquet of this pale golden pour, with a touch of ginger-kissed pie crust in the background. The palate boasts enticing just-ripe orchard and citrus fruit flavors, like sliced apple, pear, tangelo and Meyer lemon, all mingling together in a cohesive medley. A moderate mousse and ample acidity keeps it all fresh and vibrant through the finish. Elixir Wine Group. —L.B. abv: 12% Price: $NA 91 Château Rives-Blanques 2018 Zéro Dosage Brut Nature (Blanquette de Limoux). Delicate floral tones of baby’s breath, apple blossom and a touch of jasmine dance in the bouquet of this wine made exclusively from Mauzac. Fruity hints of fresh Pink Lady apple and firm peach add…

RED WINES DOURO 94 CARM 2017 Grand Reserva (Douro). From vines in the Douro Superior, this powerful wine has great richness, dense black fruits and a concentration that will allow it to age for more years. Its bold fruits need to calm down, so drink from 2022. Saraiva Enterprises. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $59 94 Quinta do Vallado 2018 Reserva Field Blend (Douro). For full review see page 175. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 94 Quinta do Vallado 2018 Tinta Roriz (Douro). Tinta Roriz, the Spanish Tempranillo, produces a rich, high-octane wine, packed with dark tannins and opulent black fruits. The wine has power, concentration and aging potential. Drink from 2023. Quintessential Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 94 Quinta Vale D. Maria 2018 Vinha da Francisca (Douro). For…