Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2021 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Jacqueline Strum EDITOR & PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack ASSISTANT EDITOR Jacy Topps TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATORS Craig Chamberlain, William Johnson ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR Cody Wexler DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR J’nai Gaither SOCIAL SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Virginie Boone, Mike DeSimone, Jim Gordon, Paul Gregutt, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Jeff Jenssen, Matt Kettmann, Christina Pickard, Michael Schachner,…

BRINY Oysters taste unabashedly of the sea. If you think of raw oysters as a salty snack akin to olives, nuts or ham, then take a cue from Spain and pair with fino Sherry. Its combination of full body, bracing acidity and savory nuttiness stands up to oysters’ most brazen side. MELONY Many oysters have notes of cucumber or underripe honeydew. This fruitiness is enhanced by sweet wine. The sweetness of Auslese Riesling from Germany is offset by acidity and stony minerality that lift, rather than smother, the delicate oyster. METALLIC While the Kimmeridgian soils of Chablis are rich with oyster shells, it’s the Chardonnay’s trademark steely, flinty character that melds with oysters’ coppery metallic notes, making for an exceptionally complementary pairing. CUSTARDY Large, plump oysters have a custardy quality…

In her new book, Southern Grit, Alabama-born Kelsey Barnard Clark offers up family recipes with the bold flavors and unfussy preparations that led her to win season 16 of Top Chef. She says this simple dish is so popular with her family that she makes it at least once a week. Experiment with your own combination of chipotle, barbecue and hot sauces. CAST IRON BARBECUE CHICKEN LEGS Adapted from Southern Grit: 100+ Down-Home Recipes for the Modern Cook, by Kelsey Barnard Clark (Chronicle Books, 2021) 2 teaspoons kosher or sea salt½ tablespoon Tajín Clásico seasoning*4 bone-in, skin-on chicken legs, rinsed and patted dry2 tablespoons olive oil¼ cup apple cider vinegar1½ cups chicken stock¼ cup chipotle pepper sauce2 tablespoons barbecue sauce2 tablespoons Cholula hot sauce In small bowl, combine salt…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Associate Managing Editor of Print Layla Schlack, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following…

WHITE WINES CHASSAGNE-MONTRACHET 97 Philippe Colin 2019 Les Chenevottes Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). Despite the intensely ripe vintage, there’s plenty of elegance in this sun-drenched yet mineral, lifted Chardonnay. Matured 12 months in lightly toasted oak barrels (one-third new), it’s slightly richer and nuttier than this producer’s village-level Chassagne-Montrachet but maintains exhilarating yellow-pear and tart tangerine flavors. Approachable young, the wine should soar from 2025 to 2035. Cape Classics. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $166 96 Philippe Colin 2019 Clos Saint Jean Premier Cru (Chassagne-Montrachet). Dustings of smoked nut and resin accent ripe honeydew and Mirabelle plum in this rich, silky white. The creamy, mouthclinging Chardonnay is balanced brilliantly by lemon-lime acidity and a kiss of vanilla that lingers on the finish. Gorgeous and vital now, the wine should drink…

FURMINT 93 Samuel Tinon 2018 Birtok Dry Furmint (Tokaj). This dry Hungarian Furmint is straw colored in the glass with aromas of pineapple, guava and a touch of flint. In the mouth there are flavors of quince, lemon curd, honeysuckle blossom and white peach. It is very well balanced with nice heft on the palate and a bright splash of acidity in the finish. Danch and Granger Selection. Editors’ Choice. —J.J. abv: 13% Price: $24 90 Tokaj-Hétszőlő 2019 Dry Furmint (Tokaji). This straw colored Hungarian dry Tokaj is straw colored with aromas of lemon blossom and white peach. In the mouth there are flavors of white peach, lemon pith and grapefruit rind. There is a strong mineral backbone in the midpalate with bracing crispness in the finish. Wineberry America LLC.…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 94 Kenzo Estate 2020 Asatsuyu Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). This is the producer’s flagship white, made by Heidi Barrett with 4% Sémillon and aged in both oak and stainless steel. Vibrant and varietal, it shows a textured layering of anise, cotton candy and almond liqueur, with bright bursts of succulent melon and white peach. Structured and complex, it is sophisticated and substantial. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $80 94 Massican 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page 103. abv: 12.7% Price: $32 93 Groth 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page 106. abv: 13.9% Price: $24 93 Merry Edwards 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 107. abv: 14% Price: $45 92 Gainey 2019 Limited Selection Sauvignon Blanc (Santa…

With more than 3,000 miles of coastline, Spain offers some of the world’s finest seafood. Likewise, this wine-producing country makes excellent white wines perfect for pairing with ocean-borne delights. Among the country’s critically acclaimed white varietal wines—a field that includes Godello, Verdejo, Viura and Garnacha Blanca—Albariño is a standout. Hailing almost entirely from the sprawling noncontiguous wine region of Rías Baixas, which abuts the Atlantic Ocean in northwest Spain, Albariño (pronounced Al-bah-REEN-yo) is a wine whose popularity has skyrocketed over the past quarter century. A classic Rías Baixas Albariño offers fresh aromas of white flowers, citrus fruits, stone fruits and green apple offset by supporting notes of sea brine, slate and minerals. The nonfruit aromatics come from the nearby ocean and granitic base soils found throughout the region. Galician…

This play on the hot toddy created for a Nashville izakaya and ramen house came about as a clever way to use the restaurant’s hot saké machine. “We’d never done anything with [hot saké] other than putting it into a cup,” says Graham Fuze, the bartender who invented it. “Building a hot toddy with the hot saké was surprisingly awesome. It popped in a nice way when the bitters and lemon were added to it.” As a dividend, Fuze would also leave a carafe of saké in front of guests, so they could replenish the drink as they sipped or build a second, lower-alcohol version with just the lemon peel steeped in the hot saké. “It creates an incredibly bright citrus flavor that’s so nice,” says Fuze. HOT TADASHI…

The size of a wine bottle tells you more than how many glasses you’ll be able to pour from it. “Bottle format undoubtedly has an effect on a wine’s ability to age,” says Erik Elliott, estate director for Heitz Cellar. “It is all a result of oxygen exchange relative to the amount of wine in [the] bottle.” A magnum has about the same ullage, or space between the top of the liquid and the bottom of the cork, as a standard 750ml bottle. However, it has twice the volume of wine. The ratio of wine to oxygen is significantly impacted and, by extension, so is the aging potential of the wine and the speed at which it occurs. Consultant Ted Glennon of Asilomar Fine Wine, points out that when…

VALTELLINA SUPERIORE 98 Arpepe 2013 Sassella Rocce Rosse Riserva (Valtellina Superiore). Made in high-altitude mountain vineyards, this classy, fragrant Nebbiolo combines structure, depth, elegance and personality. It features enticing scents of pressed rose, Alpine herb, new leather, camphor and wild red berry while the lithe, delicous palate delivers raspberry compote, cinammon, tobacco and star anise alongside firm but extremely refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it impeccably balanced and energized while a flinty mineral note lingers on the close. Just gorgeous. Drink through 2043. USA Wine West. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 13% Price: $110 96 Arpepe 2013 Inferno Sesto Canto (Valtellina Superiore). Made in high-altitude mountain vineyards, this classy, fragrant Nebbiolo combines structure, depth, elegance and personality. It features enticing scents of pressed rose, Alpine herb, new leather, camphor and wild…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 95 Alonso del Yerro 2016 María (Ribera del Duero). Smooth, lightly creamy aromas of blackberry and cassis are softened and sweetened by pastry notes, making this superb Tinto Fino smell mature beyond its years. On the palate, this is focused and acid-driven, with a familiar combination of blackberry, cassis and toasty oak flavors. The finish is slightly dry and tannic, so give this plenty of air if drinking now; or hold through 2032. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 94 Astrales 2016 Christina Colección Familiar (Ribera del Duero). As might be expected from a pedigreed wine such as this in a great vintage, Christina opens with toasty aromas of maple, vanilla and pure black fruits. The palate is punchy but texturally welcoming,…

WHITE WINES 90 Yacoubian-Hobbs 2018 Dry Aghavnadzor (Vayots Dzor). Made with four native Armenian varieties, this wine has a nose of citrus and toasted nuts. It rolls across the palate with flavors of green apple, quince, lemon. blossom and orange that culminate in a toasted nut finish. Paul Hobbs Selections. —M.D. abv: 14% Price: $30 88 Zulal 2019 Voskehat (Vayots Dzor). With aromas of nectarine and flint, this wine made with an indigenous Armenian variety has flavors of Bartlett pear, peach and lemon curd. It is bright in the mouth and offers a savory dried herb finish. Storica Wines. —M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 ARENI 93 Yacoubian-Hobbs 2017 Sarpina Areni (Vayots Dzor). Deep ruby to the eye, this wine offers a bouquet of cassis, raspberry preserves and thyme. Flavors of…

PINOT NOIR 95 Soter 2018 Origin Series Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). Soter has two estate vineyards on the Ridge, this one expressing lush black fruits underscored with the AVA’s notable seashell minerality. The flavors capture all that is distinctive and exceptional about Oregon Pinot Noir, with detail, length and balance. The finish shows firm and proportionate tannins, with a thin streak of anise and char. The overall length promises a long life ahead. Drink through 2035. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.2% Price: $60 94 Audeant 2018 Luminous Hills Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 102. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.1% Price: $60 94 Bergström 2019 Winery Block Pinot Noir (Chehalem Mountains). For full review see page 102. Cellar Selection. abv: 12.9% Price: $85 94 Brick House 2019…

HUE SOCIETY’S WINE & CULTURE FEST For three days in August, this joyous Atlanta event celebrated and honored people who have been marginalized in the wine community. Organized by Wine Enthusiast 40 Under 40 of 2020 honoree Tahiirah Habibi, the event included a cookout, a celebration of rice around the world, a rooftop lounge and an awards brunch that honored such luminaries as Dorothy Gaiter and Iris Rideau. HUDSON VALLEY WINE & FOOD FEST New York’s Hudson Valley has become a hub of not only good wine, but also beer, cider, distilleries and food. At this annual event, which just celebrated its 20th year this September, visitors sampled and purchased all of the above, as well as had the chance to attend organized tastings, cooking demonstrations and other educational…

The Greeks, Romans and Egyptians all drank wine, as did pretty much every other ancient civilization. But out of what? It turns out that vessels in the ancient world were made in great quantities and diverse materials, including pottery, glass, ivory, stone, wood, leather, bronze, silver and gold. IN THE BEGINNING The earliest known drinking vessels were made from pottery—clay hardened by heat—and date back to the Upper Palaeolithic age. During the Bronze Age (3300–1200 BCE), when metalworking techniques were introduced, bronze and gold cups and goblets started to emerge. However, they remained the preserve of a small wealthy elite. During Roman times, metalware techniques were further developed. Roman emperors and senators were known to have drank wine in vessels made from materials including gold, silver and lead, often…

Robin McBride and Andréa McBride John are known for their story, two sisters raised half a world apart who met in adulthood and bonded over wine. They’re equally well known for the fruits of that connection: wines under the labels of McBride Sisters Collection, Black Girl Magic, She Can and the newly launched Reserve Wines. Earlier this year, they partnered with Simon & Schuster for a wine and book club, which brought them to the home of music icon Patti LaBelle, whose 20th anniversary edition of LaBelle Cuisine was released in July. Wine Enthusiast got to tag along to talk music, wine, food and celebration. What brought you three together? Patti LaBelle: Well, I have a cookbook, and I cook-cook-cook, and they wine-wine-wine. And they do it so well.…

A lot of exceptional Oregon wines, created in small quantities by family-owned wineries, never make it out of the Northwest. There’s a simple solution, though, if you live in one of the many states with reciprocal interstate shipping laws: You can buy directly from the wineries or become a member of their clubs to get exclusive access. Here are four small producers whose wines you won’t want to miss. DAVID HILL WINERY This heritage winery sits in the newly minted Tualatin Hills American Viticultural Area (AVA) and has taken on a multiyear project of renovating the original mid-1960s plantings by Oregon pioneer Charles Coury. Look for the Coury clone Pinots as well as a limited selection of such rarities as Sylvaner, all value priced from vines a half century…

I occasionally duck into the local Grocery Outlet to shop for wine bargains. This 400-store chain operates mostly on the West Coast and in Pennsylvania, offering discounted, overstocked and closeout foods and beverages. Everyday white wines are what I usually look for. Among dozens of labels are reasonably priced bottles from producers I respect that are a few years past their initial release. I select a few to bring home. After sampling, I head back to buy a larger quantity of the ones that were good. One gratifying discovery was a five-year-old Chalone Vineyard Estate Grown Chardonnay from the grape-growing district of the same name in the Gavilan Mountains of California for $15, about half the usual price. Known for its ageworthy Chardonnay, Chalone is one of the state’s…

Nebbiolo, the noble grape behind Barolo and Barbaresco, is currently Italy’s hottest red variety. But if you think only Piedmont can turn out world-class, ageworthy wines from Nebbiolo, it’s time to discover Valtellina, where Nebbiolo soars in rocky, Alpine vineyards in Lombardy. Of the area’s two most famous wines, Valtellina Superiore is racier and more graceful than its Piedmont cousins but equally fascinating and ageworthy, while Sforzato di Valtellina possesses concentration, structure and velvety texture. The Growing Zone Cradled among soaring Alpine peaks near the town of Sondrio, Valtellina’s steep mountain vineyards have been turning out notable wines for millennia. Ancient Roman chroniclers Virgil and Pliny praised the area’s wines, as did Leonardo da Vinci in his 16th-century Codex Atlanticus, where he observed, “Valtellina, surrounded by high and terrible mountains,…

Just 10 or so years ago, those who preferred natural wine would’ve been hard pressed to quench their thirst outside of a big city. Stores that did highlight natural selections either didn’t declare so or may have seemed intimidating to unfamiliar shoppers. Now, “natty” wine is far from fringe, and stores that specialize in the category can be found everywhere from the Midwest to Texas, the woods of Vermont and small towns in between. Today, natural wine purveyors are inclusive neighborhood destinations where visitors are encouraged to learn more about what’s gone into each bottle. How did such a dramatic transformation happen? “You put tasty organic wines in enough glasses, and eventually people hop on for the ride,” says Andrea Sloan, co-owner of Campus Fine Wines in Providence, Rhode Island.…

Consumer studies show that most wine purchased in the United States is consumed within weeks after purchase, and that less than 10% of wines purchased are squirreled away for aging. Indeed, most wines are intended to be consumed young, but with a little bit of patience, maturation opens a whole new dimension of enjoyment for wine lovers. Among the best candidates for cellaring are quality German wines. The best examples of German wine—particularly varieties like Riesling, Silvaner and Pinot Noir, but also Pinot Gris, Pinot Blanc and Scheurebe, too—tend to age better than most due to their low pH and high levels of acidity. A broad mix of flavor compounds and phenolics as well as fermentation and maturation in traditional oak casks all contribute to ageworthiness. With extended bottle aging,…

PORT 94 Dow’s 2019 Quinta do Bomfim Vintage Port. From the Bomfim vineyard in Pinhão, this vintage Port shows black jam and spice flavors. These go with dense tannins that mark this wine out for aging. The concentration and structure are impressive, with a ripe, generous aftertaste. Drink from 2030. Premium Port Wines, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $55 94 Ferreira 2019 Quinta do Porto Vintage Port. From one of the top Douro quintas, this wine is rich. Packed with black fruits and massive tannins that will allow the wine to age well, it has a strong texture and powerful fruits. Drink from 2030. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. abv: 19.5% Price: $120 94 Quinta de la Rosa 2019 Vintage Port. This sestate close to the village of Pinhão has…

SEMILLON 92 Silkman 2018 Semillon (Hunter Valley). Not enough Hunter Semillon makes it to U.S. shores. This bottling presents the iconic Aussie style. Citrus zest, pineapple, white spice and honeysuckle characteristics melt into a waxy mouthfeel on the medium to full-bodied palate. Zippy acidity and tangy citrus and spice notes linger on the finish. Clocking in at under 12% alcohol, the wine offers food-friendly drinking now, with the capability to age into a more complex creature over the next several years. Hudson Wine Brokers. —C.P. abv: 11.5% Price: $23 91 Moss Wood 2020 Wilyabrup Semillon (Margaret River). This Semillon, from one of Margaret River’s long-standing wineries, clocks in at a hefty 14.5% alcohol. It doesn’t show, though. Instead it’s open and varietal. It offers notes of warm stone, wool and…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 93 Klipsun 2018 Klipsun Vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). For full review see page 106. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.1% Price: $150 92 King Cab 2018 King Cab Cabernet Sauvignon (Horse Heaven Hills). Fruit for this wine comes from high-density plantings at McNary Vineyard. The aromas are reserved, with notes of coffee, dried and fresh herbs and chocolate. The palate shows the density and richness that is the hallmark of Cabernet from this region. It’s a big-time winner. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.1% Price: $20 92 Starside 2019 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). The aromas are generous, with notes of black raspberry, plum, blackberry and herbs, bringing a dazzling purity. Plump blue and black fruit flavors follow. It’s a complete charmer, guaranteed to please. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.4% Price:…

CABERNET FRANC 92 Benmarl 2019 Estate Grown Cabernet Franc (Hudson River Region). Intense aromas of crushed black pepper, thyme and savory meets a coiled cranberry and brambleberry core in this dense Cabernet Franc. There’s tension, drive and grip to the medium-bodied palate, with rippling berry flavors flecked with a bevy of herbal, earthy accents. Graphite and crushed herbs linger on the long close. Drink now–2027. Editors’ Choice. —A.P. abv: 13.7% Price: $35 92 Osprey’s Dominion 2015 Estate Bottled Cabernet Franc (North Fork of Long Island). This savory red delivers cohesive aromas of tomato paste, olive and crushed herbs over a coiled cranberry and blackberry core. There’s some development on the nose, but all within good measure, adding depth and nuance. The medium-bodied palate seamlessly blends tart fruit with savory herb…

Armagnac, the grape-based brandy from France’s Gascony region, is a delightful spirit well worth a pour. Although almost every discussion of the category begins by referencing Cognac—the other, more famous French brandy—Armagnac has no problem holding its own. The robust richness of the brandy makes it an ideal dessert companion or nightcap. The flavor profile often includes butterscotch, stone fruit and caramel while older bottlings tend toward more dry flavors that suggest roasted nuts, plum skin or leather. Spice notes also can feature prominently, leading some to posit that bourbon is to rye whiskey as Cognac is to Armagnac. Spice notes also can feature prominently, leading some to posit that bourbon is to rye whiskey as Cognac is to Armagnac. Armagnac is frequently bottled in dated vintages, which means they…

The British pub is a special place. Try to picture it, and you’ll likely imagine a quirky spot filled with well used but comfortable chairs, wooden accents and a few cask handles behind the bar. The beer in this scenario should be a proper mild ale or an extra special bitter—the choice of a filled dimpled mug or imperial pint is up to the individual drinker. Once ubiquitous, these classic styles are hard to come by today, especially in the United States where flashier beers, like full-throttled, hop-forward IPAs or gooey imperial stouts rule the roost. But there is pleasure in the simplicity of low-alcohol ales with simple malt bills and legacy hops. Finding one on draft or on cask, or even a can for at-home enjoyment is a pleasant…

The classiest glass of wine I ever had didn’t come in a glass at all, but it was life-changing all the same. It all started with a weekend excursion. For most of my twenties, I had an interest in wine but was satisfied to lightly scratch the surface, attending a class or two at the local wine store, reading an article every now and then, tasting wine with my friends. On a trip to wine country, I finally decided to cross the beams of my personal and professional life and pursue an education in wine. My sister and eternal wine-tasting partner wanted to go to wine country for her birthday, so we drove the three hours or so from Spokane, Washington, to Walla Walla. It was late morning on…