Innholdsfortegnelse for August/September 2021 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Jacqueline Strum PUBLISHER Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATORS Craig Chamberlain, William Johnson DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR J’nai Gaither SOCIAL SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Virginie Boone, Mike DeSimone, Jim Gordon, Paul Gregutt, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Jeff Jenssen, Matt Kettmann, Christina Pickard, Michael Schachner, Sean P. Sullivan SPIRITS…

MOLTO POLLO Between 1880 and the dawn of World War I in 1914, millions emigrated from Italy to the U.S. and forever changed the country in myriad ways—not least its wine and food. Chicken cacciatore, piccata and saltimbocca are just three examples of the many Italian dishes that have since become an enduring part of the American culinary canon. While several variations exist, read on to discover the essential components of each alongside intel to help you match them expertly with wine. CHICKEN CACCIATORE WHAT IT IS: Today, cacciatore is taken to mean a wide variety of preparations. James Beard, an American chef and cookbook author, once said, “practically everything but a henna rinse has been given the chicken which goes by this name.” Technically speaking, however, cacciatore translates…

This riff on the Negroni was intended initially for a holiday menu, says Josh Rosenmeier, the bartender who devised the drink for Bia, an Irish restaurant in New York’s Hudson Valley region. Its name is a reference to Randy Quaid’s cringeworthy character in the 1989 film National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation. However, this robust sipper, enriched with tawny Port and coffee-infused Campari, would also be ideal for the cooler fall weather ahead. COUSIN EDDIE Courtesy Josh Rosenmeier, bartender, Bia, Rhinebeck, NY 1½ ounces Del Maguey Vida Mezcal1 ounce 10-year tawny Port1 ounce coffee bean-infused Campari*Orange twist, for garnish In mixing glass, stir all ingredients with ice, except garnish. Strain over large ice cube into rocks glass. Garnish with orange twist. *COFFEE BEAN-INFUSED CAMPARI Add 2 whole coffee beans and 4…

In the ceiling frescoes of the Sistine Chapel, Adam and Eve’s “forbidden fruit” is a fig, not a pomegranate, grape or apple. But regardless of whether figs were the seed-bearing fruits mentioned in the Bible, they’ve been part of the human diet for millennia. In fact, some researchers now believe they may have been the first ever cultivated plants. Subtropical fruits, fresh figs are icons of late summer, at their peak from roughly August to October, with nectar that bursts from their velvety skins like water escaping a dam. Dried figs, meanwhile, are widely available all year. The unique flavors of both allow for a full spectrum of wine pairings. ♦ JAMMY A fresh fig’s concentrated flavors vary in ripeness and can bring to mind fresh berry compotes or jams.…

Long before the days of #yeswayrosé, long before Post Malone’s Maison No. 9 brand or those rosé-fueled gatherings that flood Instagram in shades of blush, the real OG of pink wine was Tavel. There’s nothing new or trendy about rosé in Tavel, the famed region in the Southern Rhône devoted exclusively to rosé production. For centuries, it was known as the “king of rosés,” adored by French kings and touted by writers like Balzac and Hemingway. Today, amid the sea of pale-pink poolside quaffers that dominate the rosé market, Tavel has struggled to find its place. But for anyone who’s ever desired a bit more oomph from rosé or vacillated between a white and red to pair with dinner, these sommelier darlings are worth seeking out. For anyone who’s ever…

WHITE WINES GALLIAC 93 Domaine Gayrard 2019 Loin de l’Oeil (Gaillac). Made from Loin de l’Oeil, the dominant white grape in Gaillac, this has produced a perfumed, stylish wine. With touches of green plums and a tangy and mineral texture, this is a ripe wine. The edge of spice and acidity at the end complete a wine that will be ready from 2022. Ideal Wine and Spirits. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $26 87 Château de Rhodes 2020 White (Gaillac). This immediately attractive wine is dominated by the local grape Loin de l’Oeil. It is crisp with apple and white stone fruits cut with zesty acidity. The wine is ready to drink. Paris Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $21 CÔTES DU TARN 89 Domaine de Borie Vieille 2020 Cuvée Confidences…

BAROLO 99 Ettore Germano 2016 Vignarionda (Barolo). Enticing aromas of rose, iris, wild berry and spice appear in this gorgeous red. Combining structure and finesse, the delicious palate delivers ripe raspberry, Marasca cherry, star anise and pipe tobacco set against a backbone of firm, fine-grained tannins. Bright acidity keeps it impeccably balanced while a tangy mineral note lingers on the finish. While it’s still quite young, it already shows class, pedigree and excellent aging potential. Drink 2026–2046. Sussex Wine Merchants. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $165 98 Brovia 2017 Brea Vigna Ca’ Mia (Barolo). Mesmerizing aromas of violet, rose, perfumed berry and dried aromatic herb mingle together with a whiff of forest floor in this compelling wine. Full-bodied, elegant and delicious, the structured palate delivers ripe Morello cherry, cranberry,…

TOKAJI 99 Disznókö 2007 Eszencia (Tokaji). Mahogany colored in the glass, this Eszencia draws you in with ethereal aromas of acacia honey, beeswax, caramelized pineapple upside-down cake, English toffee and apricot jam. These heady aromas transfer seamlessly onto the palate. In the mouth the wine has delightful heft and voluptuous mouthfeel. It’s silky smooth and creamy, with just the right amount of acidity to counteract the intense sweetness. Drink through 2035. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. Cellar Selection. —J.J. abv: 1% Price: $500/375 ml 98 Disznókö 2015 Kapi Vineyard Aszú 6 Puttunyos (Tokaji). This gold-flecked, amber-colored Hungarian sweet wine is made from 100% Furmint grapes harvested from the Kapi Vineyard. It has aromas of ripe peach, honeysuckle, white flowers and pear. In the mouth it is velvety smooth, with flavors of…

CHARDONNAY 97 Vasse Felix 2019 Heytesbury Chardonnay (Margaret River). One of the most renowned Chardonnays in Australia, the latest release is a knockout. A cool vintage allowed for gorgeous natural acidity and bright fruit to shine. Being the most cellarworthy of the Vasse Chards, Heytesbury is always structured and more oak driven when young. It opens with heady aromas of toasted nuts, flint, seashell, vanilla pod and a seaweed-like umami note amid melon and lemon curd. The palate is fabulously fresh with textural complexity, and lingering nut, saline and citrus notes on the lengthy finish. Drink now–2030 and likely much longer. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $80 95 Vasse Felix 2019 Chardonnay (Margaret River). For full review see page 108. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $45 94 Stella Bella…

PINOT NOIR 95 Brittan Vineyards 2018 Gestalt Block Pinot Noir (McMinnville). The Brittan wines are all estate grown and designated by the particular soils underlying the different blocks of vines. Here the underlying basalt reduces crop load to less than one ton of fruit an acre, a miniscule reward for the work involved. The strong Van Duzer winds thicken the skins, punching up tannins. This is an extreme example of Willamette Valley Pinot Noir, yet brilliantly realized. Tight, tough and tannic, it’s packed with mountain blackberry fruit, framed with sharp herbs and finished with residual flavors of black tea. Drink 2025–2035. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 13.6% Price: $60 95 Domaine Divio 2019 Kalita Vineyard Côte à Côte Pinot Noir (Yamhill-Carlton). For full review see page 106. Cellar Selection. abv: 13.9%…

CHARDONNAY 90 Unionville 2019 Home Estate Grown and Bottled Chardonnay (New Jersey). A lemon scented nose sets the tone for this Chardonnay, which is loaded with citrus flavors and mouthwatering acidity. Bright and charming it’s packed with fresh lemon and stony mineral notes on the palate. The finish brings white grapefruit and lemon pith notes. —F.A. abv: 13.3% Price: $38 89 Unionville 2019 Pheasant Hill Estate Grown and Bottled Chardonnay (New Jersey). Pale gold in color, this offer aromas of kettle corn and lemon on the nose. Fresh lemon and white grapefruit introduce the palate that slides into a toffee note. This feels clean and fresh, with bright, crisp acidity and a butterscotch finish. The restrained oak influences allows the lively citrus tones to shine in this well balanced Chardonnay.…

Before small American craft brewers began making lagers by the barrel, they embraced the kölsch. Fermented with ale yeast and cold lager temperatures, this hybrid is both fruity and crisp, and well-made examples are prized for their subtlety. The style has its origins in Cologne, Germany, where it is brewed to precise specifications and falls under the Reinheitsgebot, or brewing purity law. It is a beer meant for gathering and comradery and in the city of its creation there are rituals involved with its consumption. Pubs and breweries that will serve round after round to patrons, making a tick mark on a coaster to indicate the number of glasses served. When the drinker has finally had enough, the check marks are tallied and a bill issued. That is not as…

A TASTE OF HISTORY Calvados is an apple brandy with Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée (AOC) status. It can only be produced in Normandy, much like Cognac is a specific brandy that can only be distilled from white wine made within a particular region from certain grapes. Calvados isn’t distilled from wine grapes, however. It begins as cider. While a small percentage of perry pears is permitted, the base cider is made primarily from apples. These must be grown in Normandy, where more than 200 varieties are cultivated. Producers can use four types of apples: sweet, bittersweet, bitter and bittersharp. The fruit is pressed and fermented, then distilled into an eau de vie and aged at least two years in oak. The first written records of apple eau-de-vie and apple brandy date…

In Georgia, a supra is a traditional feast that spans several hours and courses, beginning with an array of vegetable dishes like these stuffed peppers. The recipe detailed here is from San Diego’s Pomegranate, one of the longest-running Eastern European restaurants in Southern California. It includes khmeli suneli, a multipurpose seasoning made from regional herbs and spices, which is used widely in Georgian cuisine. Though available at specialty shops and online, it’s also easy enough to mimic with a mix of spices found commonly in U.S. supermarkets. BULGARULI NIGVZIT (ROASTED RED PEPPERS WITH WALNUT PASTE) Courtesy Dimitri Sakaliuk, owner, Pomegranate, San Diego 12 ounces walnuts, plus more to garnish½ cup onion, sautéed in olive oil1 clove garlic, minced½ teaspoon coriander, ground fine4 tablespoons grapeseed oil½ teaspoon saffron½ teaspoon salt3…

Last May, the remains of a beautiful Roman mosaic floor were found under a northern Italian vineyard. This caused great excitement and was a fresh reminder of ancient Romans’ huge influence on our wine culture. Roman soldiers who marched north to conquer Gaul, as France was called then, and other parts of Europe carried great amphorae of wine along with their swords and shields. When the battles were won, and those soldiers were paid off in land, they swapped those swords for ploughshares and planted vines. TECHNICALLY SPEAKING It wasn’t just that the Romans made wine, however. They were also very knowledgeable about soil types, planting, pruning and trellising, often training vines up trees. Their knowledge didn’t end in the vineyard. They fined wines with pigeons’ eggs and cellared…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no…

WHITE WINES MINHO 93 Quinta do Ameal 2017 Escolha (Minho). Aged in wood for six months, this wine shows a rich, elegant side of Loureiro and proof that it can handle wood aging. With its fine balance between crispness and more rounded richness, the wine is very fine; it’s ready to drink now. Now Wine Imports. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $45 90 Aveleda 2020 Alvarinho (Minho). For full review see page 135. Best Buy. abv: 12% Price: $15 88 Quinta da Raza 2020 Alvarinho (Minho). This ripe, creamed apple- and spice-flavored wine comes from the southern part of Vinho Verde. Its freshness and crisp acidity are balanced by the wine’s concentration and final richness. Drink now. OZ Wine Company. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16 VINHO VERDE 94 Anselmo Mendes 2018…

WHITE WINES 93 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2020 Coteaux de Sierre Petite Arvine (Valais). This straw-colored wine offers aromas of pineapple, honeysuckle, grapefruit pith and almond blossom. In the mouth it has flavors of caramelized pineapple, white peach, apricot and guava. The mouthfeel is generous, with a burst of bright citrus in the finish. Laine Boswell Selections. —J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $38 92 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Alpine Roots Heida (Valais). Brilliant straw-colored in the glass, this wine has aromas of lemon pith, lemongrass, green apple and a whiff of eucalyptus. Flavors suggest lemon curd, apple blossom and vanilla. The wine is well balanced, with a silky-smooth finish. Laine Boswell Selections. —J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 92 Caves du Paradís Olivier Roten 2019 Avalanche Fendant (Valais). This…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 94 Covenant Israel 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Israel). This inky, garnet-colored wine has aromas of cassis, graphite and violet. It feels well-made, with luscious tannins and flavors of black cherry, black plum, clove, licorice and dark chocolate that head into a spicy but bright finish. Drink now–2033. Kosher. Chaim LLC. Cellar Selection. —M.D. abv: 14.8% Price: $90 92 Tabor 2016 Malkiya Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). For full review see page 121. Kosher. abv: 14% Price: $60 91 Flam 2018 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Galilee). Deep cherry-red in the glass, this wine has a nose of cassis and roasted fennel bulb. It has a viscous, almost syrupy quality, with flavors of black cherry, dark plum, licorice and mint. Silky tannins fade out as a lingering violet note takes hold of the after-palate.…

MALBEC 93 Casa Natal 2018 Reserva Malbec (Mendoza). Ripe blackberry and dark plum aromas are pulpy and jammy but not fat or overextracted. A pure and racy palate is powerful but well structured. Blackberry, dark plum and chalky mineral flavors remain lively on a focused finish. Drink through 2024. W. Direct. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $38 93 Doña Paula 2019 Los Indios Parcel Malbec (San Carlos). Compact plum, blackberry and cassis aromas are inky but also minerally and complex, with a dash of oak spice. A healthy palate is balanced and solid, with flavors of wild berry, dark plum and prune. The finish tastes similar, with modest expansion. Drink through 2024. Prestige Beverage Group. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 92 Argento 2018 Single Vineyard Finca Altamira Organic Vineyard Malbec (Mendoza).…

ROSÉS 92 Devison 2020 East of the Sun Boushey Vineyard Rosé (Yakima Valley). A blend of 78% Mourvèdre and 22% Grenache, this native fermented wine coming from one of the state’s top vineyards is quickly becoming a benchmark rosé for Washington. It’s pale copper, with aromas showing complexity, with notes of citrus zest, yellow strawberry, whole watermelon and wet rock. Fleshy, textured but still brisk flavors follow, with a lot of acidity behind it all. It brings complexity and seriousness but with no shortage of outright enjoyment. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $24 91 Eight Bells 2020 Mourvèdre Red Willow Vineyard Rosé (Yakima Valley). This is a rare example of a pink wine from this esteemed vineyard. The aromas bring notes of strawberry and melon, with a light candied…

ICEWINES 95 Inniskillin 2019 Icewine Cabernet Franc (Niagara Peninsula). Cabernet Franc, both still and sweet, is a rising star in eastern Canada. As an ice wine it’s rare and distinctive, aromatic and focused. Honey, molasses, caramel, bubble tea, sweet tobacco, candied apricot, blueberry and blackberry jam mark the dizzying mix of flavors. There’s enough tannin to cut through, and this very special wine makes a splendid dessert all by itself. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 9.5% Price: $101/375 ml 92 Inniskillin 2019 Icewine Riesling (Niagara Peninsula). This Riesling Icewine offers sweet, honeyed flavors of apple sauce and peach pie, with accents of candied apricots and dried papaya. The acids balance out the sugar, which is finished at 230 g/L. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —P.G. abv:…

“There’s nothing petite about Petite Sirah,” is the common refrain for this robust red grape with a one-two punch of hard tannins and searing acidity. A hybrid of Peloursin and Syrah developed by French botanist François Durif in the 1800s, it never caught on much in the Old World. But in California, the thick-skinned variety was embraced by the 19th-century winemakers of the state’s emergent wine industry. Today, Petite Sirah’s 12,000 or so California acres make it the state’s sixth most-planted red variety. While used commonly to add impact and structure to blends or turned into uberripe, teeth-staining varietal wines, producers are now exploring its nuances and showcase more than the inky richness for which it’s known. This is especially true throughout the Central Coast, where a range of…

From the Greek word amphiphoreus for “something which can be carried from both sides,” amphorae are oblong, two-handled vases with fat bodies, pointed ends and narrow necks, a 15th-century BCE invention of the Canaanites who inhabited the Syrian-Lebanese coast. They were crafted from clay not for vinous reasons, but because it was an abundant natural resource. The vessels were easy to produce, ship and reuse. Utilitarian, their bulbous shape provided maximum storage space, tapered ends allowed for rolling and slender necks helped manage pouring. With interiors pitched in pine resin to render them waterproof, amphorae were used to hold wine, but were also packed with goods like oil, grains and nuts. Sealed with a plaster stopper, they would be layered in the hull of a ship, sent across the seas…

When Tamy Rofe, partner at Brooklyn, New York’s Colonia Verde Restaurant and Comparti Catering, was studying for her sommelier certification, there was a lot of emphasis placed on vocabulary. She remembers being given a wine aroma wheel, for example. If you’re unfamiliar, imagine a pie chart divided into slices that represent fragrances or flavors. An industry standard, it’s designed using specific terminology to create a systematic language for tasting notes and analysis. “Everyone’s literally speaking the same language,” says Rofe. “But…I like the rebellious idea of throwing that away and starting from scratch.” She’s not alone. As the wine world evolves to reach new generations and a wider range of people, so does the language used to describe it. Many have begun to break away from shared verbiage. “I…

There’s pleasure in finding something that works unexpectedly and lets me feel like a bit of a rebel. I have to apologize to many of the sommeliers who have enhanced my meals over the years: I wasn’t my truest, most authentic self with you. I’m sure you don’t care—in an ideal scenario, you stop thinking about me the second you walk away from my table. But so many of you have told me that you want guests to be honest and open. It’s only now that we’re apart that I realize I haven’t always been. I’ve always so enjoyed our ritual. I tell you what wines I like, we discuss the dishes I’m eating. You don’t just recommend a glass or bottle—you usually teach me something. Maybe you expose…

ROSÉS COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE 92 Château la Coste 2020 Grand Vin Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Old-vine Grenache, aged in wood, goes into this rich, densely textured wine. It has impressive concentration, balancing fruit ripeness with a fresh streak. The aftertaste brings out spice and juiciness. Organic. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 92 Château Vignelaure 2020 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). For full review see page 117. Editors’ Choice. abv: 13% Price: $22 91 Cellier d’Eguilles 2020 Sieur d’Eguilles Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). This is a densely fruity wine, rich in raspberry flavors and plenty of crisp, balancing acidity. The wine is tangy, bright with orange zest and packed with fruitiness at the end. Drink now. W. Direct. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $27 91 Château Beaulieu 2020 Cuvée Alexandre Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Strong…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 94 Balbas 2012 Alitus (Ribera del Duero). Ribera del Duero in full and fine form is embodied in this powerful blend of 75% Tempranillo, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and 5% Merlot from a really good vintage. Spicy oak and saucy berry aromas are earthy and intense. A fully extracted palate means tannins are palpable but they don’t dominate, leaving an open stage for blackberry, cassis, toasty oak, coffee and nutmeg flavors to play out. Drink through 2034. McCormick Wine Imports, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $120 94 Emilio Moro 2015 Malleolus de Sanchomartin (Ribera del Duero). Heavily charred aromas of wood smoke and campfire dominate a nose with base-level berry fruit scents. Size and power are plastered all over the palate of this woody, tannic warm-vintage…

RIESLING TROCKEN 96 Dr. Loosen 2014 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Réserve Alte Reben Riesling GG (Mosel). For full review see page 104. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $92 95 Dr. Loosen 2014 Ürziger Würzgarten Réserve Alte Reben Riesling GG (Mosel). Cut stone and smoky mineral tones are spiced with tangs of crushed white pepper and salt in this svelte, lime-scented white. Sourced from 120-year-old vines grown on rare red, volcanic soils, it’s deeply earthen yet penetrating with lemon and tangerine flavors. Matured four years prior to release (two in barrel, two in bottle), it expresses the depth of Riesling’s savory side. Delicious now but should hold for at least a decade to come. Loosen Bros. USA. —A.I. abv: 12.5% Price: $92 92 Seebrich 2019 Roter Schiefer Riesling Trocken (Rheinhessen). From nose to…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 94 Boekenhoutskloof 2017 Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). For full review see page 109. abv: 14.5% Price: $69 94 Reyneke 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). From biodynamic/organic producer Reyneke comes this special-release wine that’s sourced from a single block and made only in exceptional vintages. This is just about everything you’d want a Cab to be—concentrated in ripe but not overly done black fruit, with earthy elements of turned soil, woodsy spice, pressed purple flowers and singed tobacco leaf, all framed by boldly structuring yet somehow simultaneously elegant tannins. Long and evolving on the finish, this is beautiful from start to finish and will age well through 2036. Vineyard Brands. Cellar Selection. —L.B. abv: 14.1% Price: $136 93 Le Riche 2017 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon (Stellenbosch). A lifted, mentholated top note…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 94 Ehlers Estate 2020 Sauvignon Blanc (St. Helena). This elegant white was aged in stainless steel, neutral French oak and concrete egg, with just a hint of newer oak. Juicy in pear, lime and wet stone, it offers well-integrated acidity and brightness throughout, with a slate-like texture and hints of baking spice and herb. —V.B. abv: 13.4% Price: $36 94 Grieve 2018 Estate Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). From a 60-acre estate in the Lovall Valley, this white is made by the team at Atelier Melka and 100% varietal, given 17 months in new French oak and concrete egg. Fresh in peach and candied ginger, it shows lovely, well-integrated acidity and impressive texture, with length and brightness throughout. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $90 94 Rusack 2017 Icon Musque Clone…

SPARKLING WINES 91 Aurora NV Brut Rosé (Leelanau Peninsula). For full review see page 122. abv: 11.7% Price: $24 91 Soul Squeeze 2017 The Pearl Sparkling Rosé (Old Mission Peninsula). For full review see page 127. abv: 12% Price: $28 90 Bel Lago 2019 Brut Auxerrois (Leelanau Peninsula). For full review see page 128. abv: 13.2% Price: $22 90 Good Harbor NV Benjamin’s Vineyard Blanc de Noirs (Leelanau Peninsula). For full review see page 129. abv: 12% Price: $24 90 Mawby NV Talis Brut (Leelanau Peninsula). This sparkling wine starts off with aromas of lemon, peach fuzz and vanilla cake batter. The concentrated palate doles out ripe pear and Victoria sponge bathed in lemon juice and supported by fine bubbles. Tangy acidity builds towards the finish and lingers long on…

Originally from Southern Italy, limoncello is a lemon-based liqueur that’s like drinking sunshine in a bottle. Its zesty, fresh nature makes it one of the most refreshing sips around. Prized for its vibrant hue and citrusy flavor, like a grown-up version of lemonade, limoncello has a long but hazy history. One origin story credits Italian monks, noted for applying herbalism to create medicinal alcoholic elixirs. The Italian association of wine and liqueur producers (Federvini) points to Maria Antonia Farace, who had a lavish garden of lemons and oranges on the island of Capri in the early 1900s. And a third, far less likely theory says Southern Italian fishermen sipped the lemon liqueur to keep warm after their seafaring expeditions. While Italy deserves credit for creating limoncello, it’s worth noting that…

My first experience with French wine and food started with a Julia Child cookbook. I made tournedos Rossini and filet of beef with Bearnaise sauce. Such luscious dishes called for superb Bordeaux wine, and the owner of a local wine shop in West Hartford, Connecticut, provided it. That same shop owner taught me a great deal about Bordeaux and shared wonderful bottles, including some from the great 1961 vintage. When I was ready to visit the region, he sent what must have been a very convincing letter on my behalf to Maison Sichel. Upon my arrival, the négociant sent an employee and car to take me on a three-day journey to the most famous vineyards in the world. The chateaus—Lafite Rothschild, Margaux and d’Yquem—were, of course, beautiful, but I…