Innholdsfortegnelse for May 2021 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR William Johnson DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR J’nai Gaither SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee…

OFF-LABEL ART Explore how wine bottles embrace visual design. Though bottle labels have existed since ancient Egypt, the advent of lithography in the late 1700s allowed mass-printed labels to rely more heavily on images to express a wine’s character or origin. Over the years, art has expanded the role of labels from purely informational to aspirational and even collectable, and they now convey more about a wine than language could alone. After all, wine, like art, is a sensory experience, and a bottle’s label “has to be beautiful,” says Elaina Leibee, wine director for Erewhon Market, a specialty grocery chain in California. Here, five label projects that demonstrate the ways art and wine can intertwine. Donnafugata Rosa rosé encapsulates Sicilian style and terroir Donnafugata’s collaboration with fashion house and fellow…

Ever since she burst onto the music scene in the early 1990s, R&B artist Mary J. Blige has been known for deeply personal music and iconic collaborations with rappers and other artists. When she discovered a love for wine, she became part of another joint venture to launch a new extremely personal project, Sun Goddess Wines. Blige knew that she loved Pinot Grigio, so a mutual friend introduced her to Marco Fantinel, a winemaker and winery owner in Friuli-Venezia Giulia. The two paired up to create a Sauvignon Blanc and a ramato-style, or skin-contact, Pinot Grigio. We caught up with both of them to learn about finding harmony in the winery. Can you tell me about a particular moment or bottle that made you fall in love with wine…

What comes to mind when you hear the word “influencer”? A photogenic person sipping rosé in an infinity pool, maybe, or squinting heroically across a vineyard at dusk? No matter who or what you picture, chances are you have a strong reaction. One wine publication went so far as to call them an “Incurable Plague” in a January 2021 headline. That article referenced a 2020 piece by wine critic Robert Joseph, titled, tellingly, “In Defence of Wine Influencers.” Not since natural wine has such a loosely defined concept become this divisive. So, what does an influencer do, exactly? A 2019 Wired magazine article declared that the term is virtually meaningless, so “it is simultaneously an insult and an aspiration, the scourge of small business owners and the future of marketing.”…

As the Black Death, also known as the Black Plague, ravaged Europe and Asia in the mid-1300s, people became increasingly desperate for any iota of respite. Some tried blood-letting. Others opted for rubbing onions—or, in some cases, a chopped snake—directly onto their infected boils. If that wasn’t quite doing the trick, a plague-stricken individual could always try drinking a wine-based curative, according to Pat McGovern, scientific director of the Biomolecular Archaeology Project at Penn Museum in Philadelphia. McGovern has written two books on the archeological history of wine, Ancient Wine: The Search for the Origins of Viniculture (Princeton University Press, 2019) and Uncorking the Past: The Quest for Wine, Beer, and Other Alcoholic Beverages (University of California Press, 2019). “There’s one [recipe] that was put together by a king of…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no…

CARMENÈRE 93 Santa Carolina 2018 Herencia Carmenère (Peumo). Saucy blackberry and tomato aromas include a touch of green herbs and spice. The palate is full and deep, with tartaric acidity creating controlled bite. Spiced black plum and blackberry flavors finish with notes of herbs and pepper offset by chocolate, making this an ideal big-boned Carmenère to drink through 2026. Carolina Wine Brands USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $100 91 Errazuriz 2018 Max Reserva Carmenère (Aconcagua Valley). The spicy blackberry aroma has an herbal edge and is lifted by a hint of lemony oak, while this is racy and not the least bit lazy or heavy. Tomatoey plum, berry, peppery spice, chocolate and licorice flavors span a wide spectrum, while this is comported and balanced through the finish. If you like…

From barely oaked to showing lots of deep, rich flavor, reposado Tequila can express a myriad of personalities. The category occupies a unique space in the middle of the aging range, with the spirits rested in oak barrels from two months to one year. Many of the reposados tasted in this recent batch are on the lighter side of the oak spectrum, yielding Tequilas that are lean rather than lush. That easier hand means that herbaceous, mineral-like and fruity or vegetal notes shine through in a lively way. The category occupies a unique space in the middle of the aging range, with spirits rested in oak barrels from two months to one year. A number of producers are working on the opposite end of the spectrum and creating reposados with…

POŠIP Believed indigenous to the island of Korčula, Pošip is now grown widely, and almost exclusively, along the Dalmatian Coast and the island of Hvar in microclimates influenced by the Adriatic Sea. Named for its resemblance to the sip, the curved side of a vineyard tool used historically in these areas, it produces luscious white wines that offer aromas of green fig and fresh apricot, and flavors of white peach, tangerine and toasted almonds. Stylistically, Pošip tends to fall on opposite ends of the spectrum. Some winemakers vinify in stainless steel to create crisp, clean versions, while other producers age in oak for several months for a rounder, full-bodied bottling. Brands to know: Korta Katarina, Saints Hills, Zlatan Otok GRAŠEVINA The most planted variety in continental Croatia, versatile Graševina is…

Time to put those super slushy, overly sweet Strawberry Daiquiris of yore behind you. Created by Jason Asher for the now-closed Counter Intuitive, an elaborate, themed cocktail bar operated by his hospitality group in Scottsdale, Arizona, this is a bold, next-level version that’s shaken, not blended. Squint, and you’ll see the makings of a classic Daiq: rum, lime, sugar. But the drink’s rosy glow comes from strawberry syrup made with real fruit juice, while measures of bitter Fernet and earthy mezcal add welcome complexity. DAIQUIRI NO. STRAWBERRY Courtesy of Jason Asher, cofounder and director of bars, Barter & Shake Creative Hospitality, Phoenix, AZ ½ ounce mezcal¾ ounce overproof white rum1 ounce Fernet Branca1 ounce lime juice1 ounce strawberry syrup*1 dash Angostura Bitters1 strawberry slice, for garnish Combine all ingredients, except…

CORISON WINERY This Napa producer is celebrating its 34th vintage, and for more than 20 of those, Cathy Corison, its winemaker and founding partner, has farmed Kronos Vineyard sustainably, planting cover crops and composting. It’s her generosity and dedication to mentorship, however, that nurtures her following. From former interns like famed winemaker Hugo d’Acosta to partnership with entities like the Battonage Forum, Corison’s impact is wide. Yes, the product is excellence, but the giving helps keep it on people’s radar. LEFT COAST ESTATE Founded in 2003, this award-winning Willamette Valley producer has received numerous grants to help preserve habitat. Just as important, though, is its retention and care for staff. Cali Pfaff, cofounder and creative director, emphasizes salary equity and healthcare for employees. Outside its own doors, the estate has…

CHARDONNAY 94 Calera 2018 Chardonnay (Mt. Harlan). For full review see page 86. abv: 14.5% Price: $55 94 Caraccioli 2018 Escolle Vineyard Chardonnay (Santa Lucia Highlands). For full review see page 86. abv: 14% Price: $35 94 Crescere 2017 Proprietary Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). A mix of baking and Asian spices lead the way to a light, crisp palate of vibrant acidity in this lengthy, complex and impressive white wine. The energy gives into a creamy midpalate of understated richness and fruit tones of green apple and pear. —V.B. abv: 14.4% Price: $80 94 Ken Brown 2018 Radian Vineyard Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Lightly buttered orange slices, warm brioche and sharp tangerine-peel aromas show on the nose of this bottling from an epic and dramatic vineyard. It’s very suave on the…

RED WINES CÔTE-RÔTIE 95 Château de Saint-Cosme 2018 Côte-Rôtie. Notes of char, iron and tobacco leaf accent penetrating black-cherry and cassis flavors in this muscular expression of Côte-Rôtie. Produced from 100% whole-cluster Syrah and matured twelve months in 30% new French oak, it’s a weighty, intensely structured red framed by firm, gripping tannins and a delicately earthen, meaty finish. While nervous in youth it should hit peak from 2023 and improve another decade still. Craft+Estate–Winebow. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $95 95 Maison Denuzière 2018 J. Denuzière (Côte-Rôtie). Notes of schist and iodine meld into sprays of violet and rose petal in this vibrant, perfumed Syrah. Matured for 15 to 28 months in large-format casks, it offers a rich core of raspberry-coulis and red-currant flavors struck by crisp acidity…

The Era of Celebrity Drinks has seen its hits, like when George Clooney’s Casamigos was sold to Diageo for $1 billion, and its misses (Pharrell’s Q Qream liqueur, we hardly knew ye). Today, however, most celebrity brands are rosé wines, and consumers are snapping them up. According to Mike Osborn, founder and executive vice president of Wine.com, “rosé has such a wide appeal” that the site carries more than 670 pink wine products. Jon Bon Jovi and son Jesse Bongiovi’s Hampton Water, Brad Pitt and Angelina Jolie’s Chateau Miraval, and Lisa Vanderpump’s Vanderpump Rosé are the site’s second, third and fourth most popular roses, respectively. Other stars who make rosé include John Legend, Sarah Jessica Parker, Dave Matthews, John Malkovich, Kylie Minogue, Sting and Trudie Styler, Drew Barrymore and Post…

Named to honor George Arliss, lead actor in the popular 1923 play The Green Goddess, this vibrant salad dressing has become a classic. Make it your own with any combo of so-called “soft” herbs like basil, dill, mint and chives. Just don’t skip the tarragon—it’s an integral part of the original recipe. Also try it as a dip for crudités, drizzled over grilled vegetables, or even as a lighter alternative to Béarnaise or Hollandaise sauces. WINE PAIRING Maidenstoen 2019 Grüner Veltliner (San Luis Obispo County) With flavors of tart fruits and herbs, and its signature white-pepper note, Grüner Veltliner is a natural with herb-driven dishes. Best known in Austria, the grape is being vinified increasingly in the New World. This bottling has zippy acidity that offers a nice textural…

SOUR Acetic acid, the primary component of vinegar, is what puts the sour in sourdough. Amplify this note with a wine that has a similarly prominent high-acid component like Chablis. Made from 100% Chardonnay, it’s laser sharp, but it also has a mineral note that would work well with the woodiness of just-baked bread. TANGY Lactic acid is also present in sourdough. Creamier or more yogurt-like than acetic acid, it’s something that expert bakers sometimes choose to highlight in their loaves. With notes of stone fruit and mandarin orange, Viognier blends with this quality like a savory version of peaches and cream, or a Creamsicle. YEASTY Bread will almost always retain a hint of the yeast’s pleasant piquancy. Wine aged on the lees, the spent yeast cells left from fermentation,…

Rieslings from New York are among the best examples of the variety in the country, with those from the Finger Lakes region leading the charge. About 1,000 acres are planted to the grape in the area, making it a relatively small affair, yet what it lacks in quantity, it more than makes up for in quality and site expression. Vineyards in the Finger Lakes are anything but homogenous. Due to the region’s geological history—namely a wall of glaciers from ice ages in the past carving up the land—a mix of soil types and textures are exposed and planted to vines. Beyond that, sites also range in elevation, slope and proximity to the lakes, all of which influence the development of the grapes and contribute to the stylistic outcome of the…

PINOT NOIR 94 Storm 2018 Ridge Pinot Noir (Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge). An aroma of lightly toasted oak gives way to scents of brambly berry, raspberry sauce and cherry pie on the nose of this enticing Pinot. The palate is medium in weight and satiny in feel, with more ripe red fruit tones that are framed by plush but structured tannins and ample acidic lift to keep the finish bright. Baking spice and forest floor tones grace the enduring finish, along with a touch of sweet orange oil. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —L.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $60 93 Storm 2018 Ignis Pinot Noir (Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley). A pronounced earthy, cocoa nib character wafts from the glass, while further nosing unveils layers of ripe cherry, boysenberry and plum flesh. The palate is smooth and…

2016 VINTAGE 100 Il Marroneto 2016 Madonna delle Grazie (Brunello di Montalcino). For full review see page 83. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $350 100 Le Chiuse 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. For full review see page 83. Cellar Selection. abv: 14.5% Price: $99 99 Conti Costanti 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. For full review see page 83. Cellar Selection. abv: 14% Price: $119 99 Fuligni 2016 Brunello di Montalcino. Enticingly fragrant, this opens with heady aromas of rose, violet, new leather, truffle and balsamic whiffs of camphor. Vibrant and focused, the chiseled, elegant palate is all about finesse, delivering bright red cherry, orange zest, licorice and white pepper framed in taut, refined tannins. Bright acidity keeps it superbly balanced and fresh. It’s already drinking beautifully but hold for even more complexity.…

If there is a bright spot in the beer space amid the pandemic, it is that small-production brewers were afforded the time to make and age proper lagers. The craft beer industry in America was built on the backs of ales. Hop-forward India pale ales, roasted stouts and hefeweizen were put on offer by the early craft brewers to help differentiate themselves from the larger breweries that cornered the market. As the pandemic closed taprooms, …many brewers took the opportunity to use fermentation tanks for lagers. When it comes to small breweries in America today, ales are still the primary focus and largely pay the bills. They can be brewed, fermented and released within a few days. Lagers on the other hand need several weeks in tanks to properly mature.…