It’s an excellent time to drink Australian Chardonnay. While the style metronome has tick-tocked historically between ripe, oaky examples and lean, austere versions, modern Aussie “Chardy,” which ranges from vibrant, crisp and saline to textured, fleshy and toasty, seems to have found its perfect beat.
Chardonnay grows happily across Australia. The most celebrated vineyards, however, are in moderate to cool regions with either a heavy maritime influence, like Tasmania, Victoria’s Yarra Valley and Mornington Peninsula, and Western Australia’s Margaret River, or somewhat higher elevation, like the Canberra District and South Australia’s Adelaide Hills.
Bottlings from these areas tend toward freshness and delicate fruit. Those from warmer, more inland regions like South Australia’s Barossa and the Hunter Valley in New South Wales, meanwhile, can be rounder and fruitier.
But ultimately,…
