Innholdsfortegnelse for February/March 2021 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR William Johnson DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR J’nai Gaither SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee…

FOLLOW HER LEAD From the vines to the lab, tasting table, boardroom and beyond, women have long made waves in wine production. They’ve developed farming techniques, proved yeast’s impact and connected clonal specificity to terroir; they’ve built businesses and brands to share reasearch, and created quality wines for all palates. However, they’ve also faced incredible adversity within the wine world simply because of their biological gender. In recent years, such struggles have increasingly been highlighted by the media. And thanks largely to the work and counsel of female pioneers before them, so, too, have several of women’s vinous accomplishments. This recognition may be a significant stride toward equality in the industry, but crucial conversations around diversity and inclusion remain and mustn’t be overlooked. To explore how wine business hurdles,…

PERSONAL INVESTMENT Without consistent industry representation, would-be winemakers with marginalized identities often struggle to be taken seriously when seeking initial investors and funding. Some, like Ray and Nalini Patel, have succeeded through self-financing. Indian immigrants, they used money saved from a career in motel operation. They purchased land in Temecula and built Akash Winery & Vineyard with their son, Akash, for whom the estate is named. “We started from scratch and had zero knowledge of the industry,” says Akash, now the winery’s director. Chumash Native American winemaker Tara Gomez is another who depended largely on her own means. She became an accomplished vintner before convincing her tribe to start and fund Kitá Wines on land they purchased in the Santa Ynez Valley. Later, she self-funded Camins 2 Dreams, her label…

Shutting down and staying home during the novel coronavirus pandemic wasn’t an option for much of the wine industry. Instead, producers have had to quickly figure out how to create a safe environment not only for guests and servers in the tasting rooms, but also for those working in the winery. Some procedures are temporary, like limiting how many people can share a space, taking workers’ temperatures, and spacing out employees on sorting lines. Others are likely to stick around. We take a look at the worker safety protocol that make sense beyond the virus. KEEPING CLEAN Plenty of sanitation guidelines have been laid out by federal organizations such as the Food and Drug Administration and Occupational Safety and Health Administration, as well as trade groups like the Wine…

As interest in drinking less continues to grow, producers are becoming increasingly innovative in the way they approach the alcohol-free drinks category. Whether you’re taking a break for the start of the year, looking to accommodate someone else who’s laying off, or just want to try something different, a slew of new nonalcoholic spirits is bringing the fun. Here are three to try that don’t offer a buzz. GNISTA FLORAL WORMWOOD BATCH #5 This is a complex nonalcoholic spirit from Sweden. Caramel in hue, it’s a blend of botanicals including wormwood, of course, as well as juniper, lovage and citrus. Sweet at first with a bitter finish, it’s meant as a base for mixing, but it’s great over ice and topped with tonic water, too. Gnista Spirits, the producer,…

North Canterbury’s slogan, “The coolest little wine region in the country,” would seem gimmicky if it didn’t ring so true. Despite being one of New Zealand’s most accessible wine regions, just a breezy 45-minute drive north from Christchurch on the eastern side the South Island, this small yet mighty beacon of cool-climate viticulture flies under the radar. Its forward-thinking winemakers are focused on community and humble about their vibrant wines. Although the Sauvignon Blanc avalanche has slid the 150 miles south from Marlborough, it hasn’t buried the region. North Canterbury is unfettered and less defined, painted with varying brush strokes and a colorful palate of Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Riesling, along with myriad other cool-climate varieties, including Chenin Blanc, Cabernet Franc and Gewürztraminer. The wines are linear and racy, less…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 92 Dominio Fournier 2016 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). Dark blackberry and black currant aromas come with a note of mint from ample oak. A well-balanced palate is fresh and crisp, with ripe black cherry, dark plum and cassis flavors. The finish on this live-wire crianza is tannic and rubbing, so serve with hearty food. Drink through 2026. Gonzalez Byass USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $30 92 Viña Gormaz 2016 Crianza (Ribera del Duero). A compact nose with blackberry and integrated oak aromas leads to a flush, round palate that’s balanced and whole. Blackberry, black plum and cassis flavors are ripe and pleasing, with a touch of raw oak in support. An edgy finish with grating tannins suggests giving this as much air as possible before serving. Drink…

PINOT NOIR 97 Big Table Farm 2018 Sunnyside Vineyard Pinot Noir (Willamette Valley). Not just a home run, this new vintage is a grand slam for Sunnyside. The old-vine fruit brings a symphony of grace notes, along with freshly picked wild-berry fruit. Herbes de Provence, sassafras, cola and a fine, light sprinkling of brown sugar pile on the nuances. This irresistible wine will be hard to put away, but will reward cellaring over the rest of this decade. Cellar Selection. —P.G. abv: 14.1% Price: $62 96 Domaine Serene 2016 Monogram Pinot Noir (Dundee Hills). For full review see page 89. abv: 14.5% Price: $295 96 Ken Wright 2017 Bryce Vineyard Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). The Bryce Vineyard selection is the sole Ribbon Ridge offering from Ken Wright, and belongs alongside…

In the earliest days of beer, when sweet water was transformed into alcohol, people thought it was a gift from the gods or magic. We now know that naturally occurring yeast, which is always in the air around us, would simply alight on the liquid and begin the fermentation process. Brewing has evolved and become more scientific in its approach, but tradition is still alive for some. Brewers have refined the process of collecting yeast from the air to create beer and often it comes in the form of a coolship, shallow stainless-steel basins that collect hot wort from the brew kettle. Coolships, sometimes spelled koelschip, are traditionally used in the cooler months of the year, depending on location, when the ambient temperature is enough to cool the wort and…

Good wine surprises you, invites you in, imagines something new. Queerness has always required a reimagining of intimacy and community. Without guidelines for what our love looks like, we grow up defining it for ourselves, creating spaces among those we care for most and affirming what love might mean for us, what it could be. Is that not what a good bottle of wine does, too? It surprises you, invites you in, imagines something new. That’s why I think that wine is no doubt best experienced in the hands of gay women. Several fond memories over the last few years, with women I’ve loved and love, bring to mind the same kind of wonder and romance that good wine inspires. On one of my earliest dates with my first-ever…

All the cocktails at Double Take in West Los Angeles are named for cult classic movies, a nod to the venue’s studio stage design. Hitchcock fans will recognize “Que Sera, Sera (Whatever Will Be, Will Be)” as a song written for the 1956 thriller The Man Who Knew Too Much. Fans of Syrah, meanwhile, will pick up the bold red wine’s hallmark black pepper and berry flavors that are magnified via a peppercorn-infused vodka and strawberry syrup in this Sangria-inspired drink. QUE SYRAH SYRAH Courtesy of Sarah LM Mengoni, lead bartender, Double Take, Los Angeles 3 ounces Syrah¾ ounce black peppercorn-infused vodka (recipe follows)1½ ounces strawberry syrup (recipe follows)¾ ounce lemon juice1 strawberry, for garnish In cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine all ingredients except strawberry. Strain into wine…

SWEET Cauliflower fans extol its softly sweet flavor, a quality lacking in many cruciferous vegetables. It’s why you sometimes see pomegranate and raisins in cauliflower dishes. Pinot Noir features tart red fruit and soft tannins that complement this sweetness without overwhelming its subtlety. It’s especially good with grilled or roasted preparations. NUTTY When grilled or roasted at high heat, cauliflower flaunts a delicious, gentle nuttiness. With flavors of hazelnut and almond, Arneis is terrific alongside any cauliflower recipe with nuts. The wine also boasts notes of apricot, pear and honey that stand up to creamy or more full-flavored cauliflower dishes. BITTER Though cauliflower is less blatantly bitter than its fellow brassicas like kale or Brussels sprouts, it has a noticeable vegetal note that can be difficult to pair with wine.…

Vin d’orange is a traditional Provençal aperitif made from wine, often local rosé, infused with bitter Seville oranges to delicious, easy-sipping effect. It’s an ideal way to preserve the fleeting citrus at its peak. It’s rare to spy bitter oranges, according to David Lebovitz in his new book, Drinking French. When he sees the elusive fruit at Paris markets, “I snag ’em and put up a batch of this aperitif wine so it’s ready for spring.” The same impetus inspired Samantha Sheehan, winemaker and founder of Mommenpop vermouth, to infuse California citrus into her d’Orange bottling. She first encountered the bright-hued sipper stateside, at Berkeley, California, restaurant Chez Panisse. At the time, the legendary spot served a house-made version. Sheehan fell hard for its “marmalade characteristic,” she says, and…

I am fortunate enough to visit a lot of wineries (in normal times, that is). When I arrive at one for the first time, there’s the usual small talk, and then the winemaker offers to show me the inside of the winery. “Actually, I’d love to see the vineyards,” I’ll usually say. “And to meet your viticulturist, if possible.” There may be a moment of surprise, but then the winemaker will fumble through their phone for the vineyard manager’s number. These days, the “terroir” word is bandied about regularly, and flowery descriptors on wine labels boast about the pristine landscape that birthed the fermented fruit inside. Yet, in its marketing and promotion efforts, the wine industry remains far too focused on the winery and the winemaker. Small, grower/maker operations…

TREBBIANO 94 Emidio Pepe 2015 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. Focused aromas of melon rind and lemon peel meld with deep, intensely earthy accents of chamomile, thyme and gravel on the concentrated nose of this biodynamic Trebbiano. Rounded and creamy in feel, yet expertly honed by persistent acidity, the palate offers juicy yellow-apple and taut yellow-plum skin flavors dappled in earthy and floral accents. Drink through 2025. Polaner Selections. —A.P. abv: 12% Price: $115 93 Francesco Cirelli 2018 Trebbiano d’Abruzzo. This amphora-aged Trebbiano boasts rich aromas of white plum, peach and chamomile, with an earthy terracotta accent grounding it all. Rounded and full in feel, the palate is filled out by ripe white-orchard fruit flavors and honed by a bright lemon pith tone. The texture is what really sets this apart: It’s silken…

RED BLENDS 94 Carmen 2018 Delanz (Maipo Valley). Savory blackberry and cassis aromas are accented by herbal notes, all fitting for Chile and the Maipo Valley. A deep palate with smooth tannins is freshened by lively acidity, while this Cabernet Sauvignon-based blend tastes of ripe berry, black plum, mixed spices and green herbs. A steady finish holds its line. Drink through 2028. Santa Rita USA Corporation. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 93 Casas del Toqui 2018 Codigo (Cachapoal Valley). A round but wild smelling nose features aromas of tobacco, green herbs, animal hide and berry. This Cabernet blend pokes and prods with edgy acidity, but overall the palate is rock solid. Flavors of herbs and berries are supported by chocolaty oak prior to a finish with a distinct…

RED BLENDS 96 Avennia 2018 Justine (Yakima Valley). Grenache (61%, Upland) takes the lead in this wine, followed by Mourvèdre (23%, Heart of the Hill) and Syrah (Oldfield). There’s plentiful huckleberry aromas along with notes of black raspberry, dried herb, black pepper, flower, smoked meat and bittersweet chocolate, showing nuance and detail. The palate is swoon-worthy and knee-buckling, bringing depth and balance along with seemingly endless length. It’s shockingly good, with the outrageous balance what separates it. Best from 2022–2027. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $40 92 Lydian 2018 G-S-M (Columbia Valley). This wine is 38% Grenache, 31% Syrah and 31% Mourvèdre. The aromas are fruit forward, with notes of dark raspberry, orange peel, bramble, plum and Rainier cherry. The plum flavors are fresh and pure, with a lovely…

Like everything else in 2020, the year’s wildfires in Northern California were extraordinary. With the exception of 2019, which was still horrific, each year’s wildfires have been progressively record-breaking. This repeated trauma is taking its toll. The fires are among an entire constellation of stressors, not least of which includes the novel coronavirus pandemic. In the past, fire evacuees stayed together in the large buildings on the state fairgrounds; this year that was impossible. Napa and Sonoma Counties had to scramble to find safe locations for as many as 70,000 evacuees. For all that has been written about the need for economic recovery in Northern California wine country, its locals need mental health recovery every bit as urgently. Many workers in wine country live paycheck to paycheck in a region…

A collection of “recipes and stories of grandmothers from the eight African countries that touch the Indian Ocean,” food entrepreneur Hawa Hassan’s new book is a fascinating survey of diverse cuisines told from the perspective of the continent’s elders. This dish features berbere, a seasoning common in Eritrea and Ethiopia composed of warming spices. Available online and at specialty stores, it can transform a simple braise into something remarkable. DORO WAT (STEWED CHICKEN LEGS WITH BERBERE AND EGGS) Adapted from In Bibi’s Kitchen (Ten Speed Press, 2020), by Hawa Hassan with Julia Turshen 3 tablespoons unsalted butter or ghee2 large red onions, fine-diced6 cloves garlic, minced2 tablespoons minced ginger3 tablespoons berbere spice mix1 teaspoon salt2 medium tomatoes, fine-diced8 chicken drumsticks6 large eggs, hard-boiled and peeled In medium saucepan, melt…

It ’s been almost 14 years since Drew Bledsoe concluded a stellar football career and reinvented himself as a vintner with his Doubleback wines, founded with high school pal Chris Figgins of Leonetti Cellar. In that time, the Walla Walla, Washington native has applied the same drive he was known for during his tenure as New England Patriots’ quarterback to produce top-tier wines from local vines. He’s planted or acquired five vineyards, added sister winery Bledsoe Family Vineyards to his portfolio, and in October, debuted a Walla Walla Syrah and Willamette Valley Pinot Noir under a new Bledsoe|McDaniels label, launched with Josh McDaniels, Doubleback’s CEO/director of winemaking. Here, we check in with Bledsoe to learn more about his latest endeavors. What sparked your interest in working with Pinot Noir…

With winter in full swing, nothing says “warm up by the fire” like a glass of Amarone. Americans are longtime fans of this full-bodied, velvety red and the U.S. is the second largest destination market, accounting for 14% of total exports. Produced across 19 townships in the northeast province of Verona, Amarone is created from dried grapes, a method called appassimento in Italian. After harvesting high-quality grapes that can withstand the grape-drying process, bunches are carefully laid in wooden crates or on bamboo racks in a single layer to allow air to circulate. These crates or racks are then placed in large, ventilated rooms to ensure ideal conservation. After 100–120 days, the withered grapes lose up to half their weight. This increases sugar content that in turn increases the alcohol…

MOULIN-À-VENT 94 Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2018 Champ de Cour (Moulin-à-Vent). From vineyards just below the iconic windmill (moulin-à-vent), this is a powerfully structured and very ageworthy wine. Black fruits and rich tannins convey complexity. This wine will age well and should not be drunk before 2022. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $60 94 Château du Moulin-à-Vent 2018 La Rochelle (Moulin-à-Vent). A 13-acre vineyard near the top of the Moulin-à-Vent slope has produced this dense and rich wine. Powerful tannins and black plum and cherry fruits are developing, but still young. The wine is one of a series of single-vineyard wines from this estate. Drink from 2022. Wilson Daniels Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $62 94 Domaine Anita 2019 Cœur de Vigneronne (Moulin-à-Vent). For full review see…

CHARDONNAY 96 Benovia 2018 La Pommeraie Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). From the Zio Tony Vineyard, this beautifully exquisite white is cohesive and complex, a vibrant harmonization of golden apple, stone fruit and lemon rind. Refined tannin and oak temper the power and opulence, celebrated by a note of crème brûlée. The finish is marked by a texture and taste of wet stone and nutmeg. —V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $52 96 Rochioli 2018 Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This wine offers incredible aromatics of crème brûlée and brioche, rich, warming characteristics that lead to more mineral-driven elements of oyster shell and stone. From several parts of the producer’s estate, including Little Hill and River Block, this is a juicy, lengthy and beautifully structured wine, finishing in a swirl of grilled pineapple. —V.B.…

Want to save the world? Drink vodka. There seems to be a vodka to benefit every charitable endeavor. Want to help the environment? Look to Good Liquorworks Vodka. Care about LGBTQ+ issues? Live Proud and Supergay benefit that demographic. Animal rights, political causes, local community outreach. There’s a vodka for that. Why vodka, and not, say gin or whiskey or rum? First of all, because vodka sells. “Vodka is the most consumed spirit within the category,” explains Danny Lafuente, CEO/cofounder, Simple Spirits Company, which makes a potato vodka that raises funds to benefit hunger relief organizations. “As opposed to changing consumer behavior, and in order to maximize impact, we wanted to meet them where they already were.” Why vodka, and not, say gin or whiskey or rum? First of all,…