Innholdsfortegnelse for Best of 2020 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR J’nai Gaither SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, MW, Christina Pickard SPIRITS Kara…

MASTER THE ART OF THE ARMCHAIR VACATION As overseas jaunts remain uncertain, many seek ways to escape their living room without buying a plane ticket. For more ideas on the art of the stay-home wine vacation, we asked industry experts to weigh in. IN THE KITCHEN A celebrity chef, TV personality and author, Amanda Freitag is certainly no stranger to transporting diners, herself included. The vehicle? Memorable culinary experiences. “As we are all contained in our safe bubbles, my way to travel is to cook, taking my senses on a trip,” she says. She loves to make fresh pasta. “I recently took myself to Italy without ever leaving my kitchen.” She made a Bolognese sauce and prepared fresh tagliatelle, then popped open a Lambrusco from Modena. “I ate slices…

While modern wineries feature their share of architectural wonders, the historic bodegas of the Sherry triangle, many of which date to the mid-1800s, boast their own engineering marvels. Most were designed to create specific microclimates that encourage the development of flor, the blanket of dead yeast cells that forms over Sherry as it ages, protecting it from oxidation. “[The architects] came up with a new style of building, combining functionality with aesthetic,” says Mario Muñoz González, Brand Ambassador for Bodegas Lustau in Cádiz, Spain. “At that time, to be recognized or known as one of the best affluent wineries of Jerez was to have tall, beautiful and impressive cellars.” But there’s more to it than grandeur. Every feature was taken into account. “[The architects] came up with a new…

Butternut squash is the quintessential produce of fall and winter. Rich and smooth, it’s akin to sweet potato, though less dense in texture, and pumpkin, which can be watery by comparison. It’s also, without question, the perfect partner for the spices of the season: cinnamon, clove, various curry blends, allspice, ginger and nutmeg. Equally suited for sweet or savory preparations, it’s luscious in desserts (it makes an even better “pumpkin” pie), soups, salads, gratins or just mashed alongside your holiday roast. BUTTERSCOTCH As its name suggests, butternut squash has a buttery quality. Combined with its brown-sugar sweetness, it’s reminiscent of butterscotch. Well-toasted American oak can impart this flavor, so look for an oak-aged Chardonnay, preferably from the U.S. Its rich tones of butter and caramel are offset by bright…

In 2020, we mark the 21st anniversary of Wine Enthusiast’s Annual Wine Star Awards, honoring the individuals and companies that make outstanding contributions to the wine and alcohol beverage world. In a challenging year, we salute the dedicated professionals who have innovated, flourished and exhibited a passion for change. From winemakers to wineries, sommeliers to CEOs, innovators and social visionaries, each winner has balanced business acumen with vision, shown a drive and resilience to weather challenges, and made steps to evolve the future of wine and alcohol beverage. Nominated by our global sales, events, marketing and editorial divisions with final selections made by our executive publishing team, winners will be honored via a virtual event in January 2021. For details on the event and further insight on our selection process,…

It’s hard to find many benefits of climate change. However, there is one for vine growers and wine producers in cooler climates. Grapes that ripened erratically are now regularly capable of going the extra mile, turning out wines that previously could only have been made in warmer climes. That’s the case in the eastern Loire regions of Sancerre and Menetou-Salon. While these areas might be better known for Sauvignon Blanc, this story is about Pinot Noir. Producers have learned to make red wines that are close to attaining the heights of Burgundian Pinot Noir. The red wines of Sancerre and Menetou-Salon, which are made entirely from Pinot Noir, used to be mainly thin and weedy. A few geniuses, such as the Vacheron family, managed to coax richness from grape, but…

CÔTE-RÔTIE 96 Domaine Christophe Pichon 2017 La Comtesse en Côte Blonde (Côte-Rôtie). Packed with pristine black cherry and raspberry flavor, this medium-bodied Syrah is a gloriously perfumed expression of Côte Blonde. It’s sunny and charming in fruit profile but elevated by subtle hints of fur, crushed earth and charred bramble, too. While tempting in its youth, it should gain complexity well past 2030. Wade & Clark Wine Imports. Cellar Selection. —A.I. abv: 13% Price: $85 95 Domaine Martin Clerc 2017 Coteau de Tupin (Côte-Rôtie). Radiant notes of black raspberry and black-cherry preserves are accentuated by complexities of violet, crushed granite and clove in this pure-fruited, supple wine. Matured for 18 months en barrique (20% new), it’s a hedonistic, spicy sip but briskly structured, too, held upright by piercing acidity and…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 93 Fromm Winery 2019 Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). This is an expressive and downright delicious Sauvignon from a great vintage and a thoughtful producer. Hand-picked and whole-bunch pressed with six months on lees, there’s a refreshing ease of winemaking here. The nose is like unbaked apple crumble combined with notes of lemon verbena and tomato leaf. The texture is gorgeous, with bright acidity and a long lemony, herbal finish. This is good friendly and filled with personality. K&L Wine Merchants. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $20 92 Giesen 2019 The Brothers Sauvignon Blanc (Marlborough). Giesen’s lees and barrel aged “The Brothers” is back and, likely thanks to the fantastic 2019 vintage, is better than it’s been in several years. It opens with a delicate perfume of honeydew melon, green-apple slices,…

WHITE BLENDS 95 Arietta 2019 Sauvignon Blanc-Sémillon (Napa Valley). A blend of 74% Sauvignon Blanc and 26% Sémillon, this superb white is robust and complex, with a sophisticated structure and lively underlying acidity. Hints of nutmeg, honey and flint meet a serious palate of tension and length. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $65 92 Kaena 2018 Hapa Blanc (Santa Ynez Valley). Mikael Sigouin uses a rich-yet-blend of 50% Roussanne, 25% Viognier, 17% Grenache Blanc and 8% Albarino to craft a great Chardonnay alternative. Aromas of baked apple, tangerine peel, white melon and toast lead into an oily palate that offers cashew cream and light marzipan flavors, cut by citrusy acidity. Editors’ Choice. —M.K. abv: 13.9% Price: $30 92 Le Casque 2019 Adrian (Sierra Foothills). Great depth, layering and complexity make this…

Conventional wisdom about blended Scotch is that it’s an everyday dram that’s engineered for consistency. It’s easy-drinking in terms of flavor and proof, and tends to be priced with an eye toward value. While that’s true of many, it’s not universal. In fact, a growing number of blended Scotch bottlings are complex and intriguing, and a handful are clearly priced as special-occasion sippers. While consistency still is prized, many blends are produced in limited quantities, yielding just as few hard-to-duplicate bottles as a small-batch single malts. Many blends are produced in limited quantities, yielding just as few hard-to-duplicate bottles as small-batch single malts. Consider, for example, Hedonism Felicitas, produced by Compass Box to celebrate the brand’s 20th anniversary. When the brand launched in 2000, the vanilla-forward Hedonism was its first…

Walking back from my car to my campsite after exploring Yosemite for a few hours, I was struck by the silence. It was my first time in California, and visiting Yosemite had been a dream of mine. When I found a campsite that also had a small backyard vineyard, I couldn’t resist. So, I took the five-hour drive from Sonoma through winding mountain roads to get to my campsite. Finally, I reached the narrow dirt road, just a mile or two from where I’d be sleeping. The journey was so treacherous it took me around 30 minutes to reach the site, and my entire car was covered in a thick layer of red dirt. As the sun set lower in the sky, a wave of anxiety washed over me.…

Parent of powerhouse red variety Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc creates herbaceous, savory reds, bright rosés and, increasingly, layered white wines. That’s right: An adventurous set of American winemakers has begun to embrace the grape in a new light and produce tradition-defying, still white offerings. Without any skin contact during the winemaking process, white Cabernet Franc doesn’t exude the same berry notes one might expect from the grape. The variety’s telltale pepperiness and lively acidity carry through, however, and resulting wines fall anywhere from zippy, like Sauvignon Blanc, to ripe or complex and smoky, like a Grüner Veltliner. Ahead, find four selections that showcase this unique expression. JACKALOPE WINE CELLARS WHITE Portland, OR In 2014, Corey Schuster, Jackalope’s owner/winemaker, made his first white Cab Franc by accident. Intended to be…

When friends Cameron Diaz and Katherine Power learned about the additives used in some wine production and the industry’s lack of clear labeling requirements, they were shocked. With so many people increasingly conscious about the ingredients in other consumable goods, how could such a dearth of transparency be acceptable? Wine lovers, the two decided to change that dialogue by establishing their own brand. Named Avaline and launched in July, the label advocates for more informed purchasing through straightforward labeling. It offers a trio of vegan wines, all made with organic grapes. Nutritional information is included on the bottle, and a list of all ingredients can be found on the brand’s website. Here, we dish with the duo about why they entered the wine biz, how they determined their lineup…

QUICHE LORRAINE 1 recipe pie dough, mixed and chilled6 ounces thick-cut bacon, diced1 small white onion, minced4 ounces Gruyère cheese, grated2¼ cups half-and-half4 large eggs½ teaspoon salt Heat oven to 400˚F. Place 8-inch springform pan on baking sheet lined with parchment paper. On lightly floured surface, roll dough into circle about 1/3-inch thick. With rolling pin, carefully transfer dough to springform, then use fingers to press evenly into bottom and about 2 inches up sides of pan. Chill for at least 15 minutes, then prick base and sides with fork. Line dough with foil or parchment paper, and fill with dry beans or pie weights. Bake until crust begins to brown at edges, about 15 minutes. Remove lining and weights, and bake 3–5 minutes, until light golden. Cool to room…

The use of clay in winemaking dates back more than 8,000 years to the nation of Georgia, where pots called qvevri were used to age wine underground. Similar dolium have roots around the Mediterranean, while egg-shaped vessels called tinaja are linked to Spain. Amphorae, smaller jars, trace origins to ancient Greece and Rome. Recently trending among today’s winemakers and wine lovers, various terracotta vessels are being embraced by other beverage producers, too. Sebastian Degens, owner of Portland, Oregon’s Stone Barn Brandyworks, is one. While several spirits like mezcal, pisco and shochu have traditions in clay, Degens says his inspiration for the distillery’s nocino and grappa came from the wine industry. Both are aged in amphora-like pots called novum made by fellow Oregonian Andrew Beckham of Beckham Estate Vineyard. The…

Since the 1855 classification, the first growths of Bordeaux Médoc and Graves have stood at the top of the heap, the monarchs of all they survey. Other chateaus, however good, can aspire to, but never seem to reach, the pinnacle of these five (originally, four). Chateaux Lafite-Rothschild, Mouton Rothschild, Latour, Margaux and Haut-Brion: What sets them apart? What magic stardust has been sprinkled on them to offer such enduring status? The alpha and omega is the terroir. All five have magnificent vineyards. The richness of the gravel and clay makes a natural home for Cabernet Sauvignon, the premier grape for all five. Owners may have come and gone, but those vineyards remain treasured. Over the decades, the soil and vines have been observed, fussed over and analyzed almost to excess.…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials…

FORTIFIED WINES PORT 98 Quinta do Crasto NV Honore Very Old Tawny Port. This is an extraordinary wine. It was created from a blend of very old tawnies (the oldest estimated to date from 1873). The resulting wine, amazingly perfumed and with a texture like liquid lavender honey is stunningly full of life. What shows most strongly are the perfumes, the intensely floral character and the poise between acidity, wood aging and freshness. It has been bottled in Portuguese crystal decanters. Drink now. Folio Fine Wine Partners. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $8,500 98 Taylor Fladgate 2018 Vintage Port. This is an exceptional vintage, most unusually the third in a row from this producer. Intensely perfumed, richly structured with dark-black fruits, concentrated tannins, it is set for seriously long-term aging. The…

CARMENÈRE 92 Caliterra 2017 Tributo Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Berry and black plum aromas meld with an herbal accent in this typical Colchagua Valley Carmenère. On the palate, this is full and dense, with just enough lively acidic pop. Toasty, spicy flavors of smoky oak accent a core of blackberry and cassis, while this is long and slightly tannic on a well-focused finish. Drink through 2024. Seaview Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $20 92 Montes 2017 Purple Angel Carmenère (Colchagua Valley). Savory, saucy blackberry and black-plum aromas include common Carmenère notes of olive, along with charred oak and asphalt. A shot of tartaric acidity brightens an otherwise soft and lush palate, while this tastes of blackberry, spiced black plum and resiny oak. An easy finish with soft tannins wraps things up;…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 93 DeLille 2017 Four Flags Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). This is a blend of fruit from Upchurch (30%), Ciel du Cheval (27%), Grand Ciel (24%) and Klipsun vineyards (19%). The aromas offer notes of sautéed dried herb, raspberry, dry chocolate and earth. Dense, fresh coffee and cherry flavors follow. It lingers on the finish, showing a pleasing sense of brightness. It drinks well now but seems to be immortal. Best after 2026. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $70 93 DeLille 2017 Lot 3 Cabernet Sauvignon (Red Mountain). All of the fruit for this wine comes from Klipsun Vineyard. The aromas pull you in, with notes of cherry, black currant, barrel spice, earth and whiffs of satsuma. Full-feeling dark-chocolate and cherry flavors follow, bring a sense of density…

Asecond mug of barleywine always seems like a good idea at the time, but the next morning tells a different story. The strong, dark ale is a historical style that remains popular with a small section of brewers and drinkers, but has largely fallen by the wayside in the mainstream beer drinking community. This is a shame because there is real depth and beauty in this malt-forward style that’s built to age and evolve over time. The colors range from deep copper, to tawny brown and garnet. There are even some nearly black pours. There is real depth and beauty in this malt-forward style that’s built to age and evolve over time. While fun to look at, the real marvel is the oxidized flavor, which at times resembles wet cardboard…

HOME SCHOOL Ready to give it a go? We’ve got a grain-to-glass guide to walk you through the process of homebrewing and act as a roadmap on brew day. Follow along at winemag.com/Homebrew MASH MADE EASY If you’re not sure how to get started, keep it simple with an all-in-one brew kit. For as little as $50, you can have everything you need delivered to your door, even the recipe. We review three kits at winemag.com/BrewKits BREW SLANG The best way to step up your game is to learn how pros do it. Beer Editor John Holl breaks down the details of making different styles like ale, porter or lager at winemag.com/HowToBrew Follow us @WineEnthusiast…

After New Year’s celebrations are done, put any leftover Champagne to work in this indulgent slushy that’s like a cross of a frozen Margarita with a Sgroppino, an Italian classic made with lemon sorbet, vodka and Prosecco. (Yes, you can put bubbly in the blender. Just a couple of ounces of fizz won’t cause an explosion, promise.) Flat Champagne would also work. BALLER MARGARITA Courtesy of Erick Castro, proprietor/bartender, Raised by Wolves, San Diego 1 ounce blanco Tequila2 ounces Champagne½ ounce vanilla liqueur, preferably Licor 431½ ounces lime sherbetLime wheel, for garnish Combine Tequila, Champagne, vanilla liqueur, sherbet and 1 cup ice cubes in blender. Blend until slushy, about 20–30 seconds. Pour into hurricane glass. Top with crushed ice. Garnish with lime wheel.…

WHAT DOES SEMI-SPARKLING MEAN? The pressure inside a wine bottle is measured in bars or units of atmosphere. “The biggest difference between [sparkling and semi-sparkling] is the level of effervescence produced in each bottle,” says Settimo Pizzolato, winemaker for Cantina Pizzolato in Villorba, Italy. “Technically speaking, spumante wines are fully sparkling wines with over three bars of pressure, while frizzante wines are semi-sparkling wines with between one and two- and-a-half bars of pressure.” Many semi-sparkling wines go through secondary fermentation, but some, like pétillant naturel wines, don’t. According to Guy Pacurar, owner of Fathers + Daughters Cellars in California, “the bubbles result from capturing the final portion of the primary fermentation under pressure and as a result, the bubbles stay in the wine.” WHICH WINES ARE SEMI-SPARKLING? “Many Prosecco wines…

SPARKLING WINES ALTA LANGA 95 Ettore Germano 2016 Metodo Classico Extra Brut (Alta Langa). Delicate aromas of white stone fruit, yellow spring flower and a whiff of bread crust form the delicate, enticing nose on this bone-dry sparkler. It’s elegant, vibrant and delicious, doling out ripe apple, pear and a hint of ginger set against an extremely refined perlage. Bright, tangy acidity gives it a crisp, pristine finish. Oliver McCrum Wines. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 92 Enrico Serafino 2016 Oudeis Brut (Alta Langa). Made with 85% Pinot Nero and 15% Chardonnay, this has inviting aromas of bread dough, red berry, eucalyptus and baking spice. The aromas follow through to the focused palate, along with pomegranate, hazelnut and star anise set against a refined perlage. Vibrant acidity lifts the finish.…

TANNAT 93 Cerro Chapeu 2017 Batovi T1 Single Vineyard Tannat (Uruguay). Massive dark-berry aromas range from blackberry to spiced black cherry. Following the nose, this is flush and lush but balanced more than just hefty. Chocolaty oak blends with ripe berry and spice flavors in front of a smooth, toasty finish with black-coffee notes and welcome acidity. This feels big and rich. Drink through 2025. MHW, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 13% Price: $35 92 Artesana 2018 Reserva Tannat (Canelones). Dark-berry aromas form a nose that’s quite dense. A saturated palate is packed with concentrated power, while blackberry and cassis flavors are backed by oak that’s slightly charred and warming. Hence, dark-chocolate and smoky flavors play out on a muscular finish with some tartaric burn. Drink this high-level Tannat through 2025. Austral…