Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2020 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, MW, Christina Pickard SPIRITS Kara Newman BEER John Holl FOOD…

ALL THE GOODS TO GATHER Because an unorthodox year calls for an exceptional finish, this edition of our holiday gift guide skips the embellishments and just gets right to it. Here, we’ve collected a wide range of great wine and beverage gifts to cover all—OK, most—of the bases. So whether you hope to give a little extra love, need a bit more bang for your buck or simply want to treat yourself, you can find it. Cheers! Find even more merry and bright ideas to make the most of your holiday season, right this way.…

Boasting an array of flavors and textures, and crafted by winemakers of all kinds, pétillant naturel has become an undeniably popular wine category in recent years. Yet, most bottlings in the spotlight have one thing in common: They’re grape-based. The méthode ancestrale technique used to make this style of bubbles isn’t limited to one type of fruit, however, and, as cidermakers have begun to learn, apples can yield just as delicious sparkling results. Cider is just apple wine, after all. North American producers are at the forefront of the trend and use European and American heirloom apple varieties, as well as foraged wild apples, to create a whole new world of pét-nats. Ahead, three bottles to get you started. COTURRI WINERY PÉT-NAT CIDER Glen Ellen, CA In addition to…

No one likes mistakes, but not all blunders are bad ones, and straying from the plan can sometimes lead to something better. This is especially true in wine, where trial and error are essential, and so much changes during hands-off processes like aging. California winemaker Dave Phinney is one of the more legendary examples. After a lousy harvest, he created The Prisoner, a Zin-driven red blend, using the small, ad hoc mix of grapes he had available. It proved unexpectedly popular, consistently selling out and establishing a new quality benchmark for blended wines all together. Phinney’s not the only vintner who’s made the most from a fluke in the cellar or vineyard, however. AN IMPROMPTU BREAKTHROUGH For John and Stacey Reinert of Napa Valley’s Brilliant Mistake Wines, it was…

RED WINES CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN 96 Domaine René Bouvier 2018 Grand Cru (Charmes-Chambertin). A subtle flash of Morello cherry on this wine’s shy nose announces freshness, while further swirling reveals hints of roasted coffee and white pepper. That peppery note stays throughout the palate that brims with freshness and elegant flow, framing red currant and cranberry. The wine has immense concentration and power but these appear as depth rather than heft, and tingle away with brooding promise. Tightness, richness, finesse and spice are hold potential for the future. Drink by 2045. Multiple U.S. importers. Cellar Selection. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $305 96 Edouard Delaunay 2016 Grand Cru (Charmes-Chambertin). Smoky red cherry is slender, fresh and pervasive on this wine’s subtle nose. The palate is perfumed and pockets of fragrant conifer and red…

BEERENAUSLESE 97 Heidi Schröck 2018 Beerenauslese (Burgenland). Ripe melon flesh and quince peel notes on the nose promise savory fruit. The palate bursts in with luscious, intense fruit that spills over with grapefruit zest and gorgeously bitter notions of citrus pith and quince peel while a lightning streak of freshness freezes everything into precision. There is much going on here, riotously so, and despite all the sweetness it is this rapier freshness that makes this moreish. Drink by 2050. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 11% Price: $46/375 ml 96 Domaine Andau 2017 Scheurebe Beerenauslese (Burgenland). Blossom honey, musk and candied lemon get equal billing on the intense nose. The palate adds candied peach to this incredibly concentrated experience of richness and purity. The aromatic nature of the grape and laser…

CHARDONNAY 99 Ramey 2017 Rochioli Vineyard Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). Only the third vintage by this producer from this spectacular site, this elegant wine is brimming in tension and length. Delicate layers of Meyer lemon, Gravenstein apple and pear show an abundance on the palate, seasoned in salty oak, nutmeg and a hint of cardamom. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $70 96 Lynmar Estate 2018 Monastery Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). This is a perennially cohesive, elegant and bright wine, juicy in pear and apple with a lightness of oak. Savory seasonings of nutmeg, salt and stone give way to crushed rock, making for a complex, layered and deliciously lengthy wine that stays long on the mind and palate. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 14.2% Price: $55 96 Ramey 2017 Ritchie…

Two years ago, the XO—Extra Old—Cognac category got a little extra older. More specifically, Cognac producers typically blend together brandies (eau-de-vie) of various ages. In April 2018, the age classification was changed so that for a Cognac to carry the XO designation, the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend must have been aged in barrels for at least 10 years, instead of the six years previously required. Though XO has a reputation as luxurious and expensive, there are signs that Cognac is slowly becoming more accessible. This was done to help bolster the perception of XO Cognacs as high-quality products, as well as to eliminate confusion between the XO and Napoleon category. For the latter, the youngest eau-de-vie in the blend remains at six years old, yet both often incorporate brandies…

“The Australian whisky industry is going through a complete rebirth,” says Graham Essex, bartender at Gaijin restaurant in Chicago. It’s a regeneration that’s been unfolding for the better part of two decades. Starting in the early 2000s, the country’s producers have increasingly taken advantage of local malts, peat bogs and the continent’s varied climates to raise quality and create a distinct Aussie style. Though consumed primarily within Australia, global popularity ramped up in 2014 when Tasmanian whisky Sullivans Cove French Oak was named World’s Best Single Malt at the World Whiskies Awards. Today, recognition continues to rise. “From Archie Rose Distillery winning World’s Best Rye 2020 to Starward Distillery producing consistently high-quality whisky… Australian whisky is going to become much more well known for quality in the coming years,”…

FUNKY The word “funky” may be a bit overused in the world of wine and food, but it’s tailor made for these sometimes pungent cheeses. Made from grapes infested with the Botrytis cinerea fungus, or noble rot, sweet Sauternes lends its own subtle funk when paired with blue cheeses. SALTY These are salty cheeses, and what goes well with salted snacks? Something sweet. An off-dry cider would be a terrific choice for those who don’t love sweet wine but still want to toy with opposing flavors. A plate of blue cheese and crisp apples paired with cider is a no-brainer. SWEET There’s a reason why blue cheeses are often used in dessert courses. They have a concentrated, fudgy quality that invites complementary sweet flavors. Tawny Port is a sweet, fortified…

A definitive guide to all things cookie, 100 Cookies is the second book from award-winning baker/blogger Sarah Kieffer. This is her crinkly version of the snickerdoodle, a somewhat underrated classic with a cinnamon-sugar coating that’s perfect for the holidays. The recipe’s cream of tartar is important to achieve the cookie’s characteristic tang. SNICKERDOODLES Adapted from 100 Cookies: The Baking Book for Every Kitchen, with Classic Cookies, Novel Treats, Brownies, Bars and More (Chronicle Books, 2020) by Sarah Kieffer ¾ cup unsalted butter, room temperature¼ cup shortening or refined coconut oil1 ¾ cups granulated sugar, plus ¹/₃ cup for rolling1 egg1 egg yolk1 tablespoon pure vanilla extract2 ½ cups all-purpose flour1 teaspoon cream of tartar¾ teaspoon baking soda¾ teaspoon salt1 tablespoon ground cinnamon Heat oven to 350˚F. Line 3 sheet…

“I should save that.” Many wine lovers have uttered those words before, and, chances are, many will say them again. I would know, I used to be one of the worst offenders, reserving countless precious bottles for the perfect opportunity for them to be consumed. But that optimal time wasn’t based on the wine’s maturity or evolution—I wasn’t cellaring. I was hoarding. The time was rarely right for me to give in to greatness. I couldn’t allow myself the experience of enjoying a spectacular wine without a momentous occasion, a special guest, or some other grand reason deserving of its delicious contribution. For whatever reason, I didn’t think I was good enough to enjoy a fabulous bottle of wine on, say, a regular old Tuesday night, with a simple…

Climate change has so far been good to Champagne. The 2000s and 2010s were two great decades. As each harvest succeeded the one before, the growers and producers began to run out of superlatives for the quality of the fruit. And that quality has translated into the most recent releases of nonvintage Champagnes. These are the bottles we are most likely to see in the shops—the brands that aim for consistency year in, year out. As the wine ages, toastiness emerges, it loses that up-front fruit and instead gains depth and richness. However, one thing we forget, as we so often buy the bottle and enjoy it immediately, is that Champagne—even nonvintage bottles—can age. The bright acidity, steeliness and freshness of the wines see to that. Many Champagnes are bottled…

FRANCIACORTA 95 Berlucchi 2013 ’61 Nature Rosé Dosaggio Zero (Franciacorta). Made entirely with Pinot Nero and without dosage, this radiant sparkler offers delicate scents of red berry, bread dough and a whiff of botanical herb. Structured and boasting pristine fruit and precision, the bone-dry palate delivers juicy pomegranate, red cherry and orange slice alongside vibrant acidity before closing on a slightly smoky note. An extremely elegant, focused perlage provides finesse. Gorgeous. Volio Vino. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $68 95 Ferghettina 2016 Rosé (Franciacorta). Bread dough, white stone fruit, wild herb and a whiff of citrus zest mingle with balsamic notes on this fragrant sparkler. It’s delicious and loaded with finesse, delivering juicy sour cherry, pomegranate, baking spice and grilled herb alongside a silky mousse. Bright acidity keeps it…

RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS 96 Van Volxem 2016 Goldberg Riesling GG (Mosel). Ephemeral compared with grand cru expressions from the Mosel that are increasingly stout, this finely etched dry Riesling offers invigorating lemon and yellow-plum flavors layered in smoke, flint and dusty minerals. It’s lithe and steely but silky, too, with a bracing steel edge. Tasted in 2020, it’s brilliantly fresh. Should continue to improve well through 2035 and hold further still. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 12% Price: $40 95 Schloss Johannisberger 2018 Silberback Riesling Trocken GG (Rheingau). Wafting of spring blossoms, smoke and raspberry brambles, this is such a delicately perfumed Riesling. It’s slim in profile but beautifully defined, etched by layers of luminous white peach and grapefruit along with a bold, intensely slaty core. It’s quiet in…

PINOT GRIS 93 Antiquum Farm 2019 Daisy Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This breaks new ground for Oregon’s signature white grape. It’s rich and leesy, fragrant and full, a bonanza of apple, pear and melon fruits. There’s a lingering trail of honeysuckle, and a lush minerality that underscores the freshness. A stunning wine. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.2% Price: $22 92 Antiquum Farm 2019 Aurosa Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). One of three radically different Pinot Gris from Antiquum Farm, this was cold-soaked for 72 hours prior to pressing, yielding a coppery gold wine with intense aromas of hibiscus, rose hip tea and chamomile. Flavors follow along, edging close to light tropical with a hint of papaya. The skin phenolics linger and put a tight frame around the finish. —P.G. abv: 13.4%…

Once upon a time—although not that long ago—in the land of beer, all ales and lagers came from wood. They would be conditioned in or served from barrels, foudres, puncheons and more. As stainless steel and other modernizations became more popular, wood was largely left by the wayside. There are brewers who like to live by the adage “everything old will be new again,” and over the last few decades, breweries have again embraced wood as a way to bring something special to their beers. While once rarities reserved for special occasions like brewery anniversaries or holiday releases, barrel-aged beers of all kinds have become more commonplace. Even the smallest of breweries boast a barrel program that can consist of a few beers hanging out in wood in a corner…

I remember taking my first sip of wine (or pinard, as they call it in his native northern France) from his glass as a little girl. There are so many pieces of myself that I owe to my dad. He was my hero, my protector, my inspiration on many levels. He led a life of travel through his work and inspired me to do the same. Almost as much as the act of travel itself, he loved to drink along the way. I remember the wines he would bring back from his work trips, usually Bordeaux. The sound of a cork breaking free from its bottle will always remind me of my dad, as will the taste of any tannic red. I remember taking my first sip of wine…

CALIFORNIA SOUL Though California is often thought of as Cabernet country, the state produces some of the best value Pinot Noir in the U.S. Find a selection of 90-plus-point bottles, all for less than $30, at winemag.com/ValuePinot BUBBLES ON A BUDGET Bottles of sparkles are synonymous with celebration. If you’re looking for a gift that won’t break the bank, head to winemag.com/cremant to discover 10 of our favorite fizzy French wines that aren’t Champagne. A TASTE OF ITALY Barbaresco is renowned for Nebbiolo that sits at the intersection of value and quality. See some of our top-scoring picks from the 2017 vintage at winemag.com/Barbaresco2017 Follow us @WineEnthusiast…

It’s no surprise that this whiskey sour riff, sourced from Kentucky, features Bourbon. The twist is a “wine syrup,” made from Madeira and sugar, which adds complexity and dried-fruit richness. A half-ounce of Angostura bitters also contributes holiday-appropriate spice. MAD ABOUT YOU Courtesy of Davy Butterworth, beverage director, Decca, Louisville 1½ ounces Bourbon1 ounce lemon juice1 ounce Madeira wine syrup (recipe follows)½ ounce Angostura bitters1 thin strip lemon peel, for garnish Combine all ingredients in cocktail shaker filled with ice. Shake well, then strain into coupe glass. Garnish with lemon peel. MADEIRA SYRUP Combine 1 cup dry-style Madeira (like Sercial) and 1 cup sugar in saucepan over medium heat. Stir until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat, and let cool before use. Refrigerated in lidded container, it will keep for…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear…

VINTAGE PORT 100 Ferreira 2018 Vintage Port. This impressively structured wine shows a perfect balance between its powerful, spicy fruits and firm tannins. Dense tones of dark berries and smoke are rich and flavorful, bringing the wine to a perfect conclusion. It’s immensely ageworthy. Drink from 2030. Evaton, Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $150 96 Offley 2018 Vintage Port. A dark, firm Port, rich in tannins and powered by solid black fruits, this is set for long-term aging. The wine’s concentration and dryness are balanced by opulent berry flavors and tight acidity. Drink this very fine Port from 2029. Evaton, Inc. —R.V. abv: 20% Price: $90 96 Quinta do Noval 2018 Vintage Port. While this vintage was not generally declared as such by the major Port houses, it…

MALBEC 93 Luca 2018 Old Vine Malbec (Uco Valley). Concentrated black-fruit aromas alongside hints of cardamom and coriander open this lush Malbec. Blackberry, cassis and dark plum flavors are pure and agile on the palate. Enjoy through 2024. Vine Connections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $35 93 Tikal 2016 Amorio A Blend of Malbecs (Paraje Altamira). Full and lush dark-berry aromas open this lusty blend of Malbecs from high-quality Paraje Altamira. While fully extracted, there’s grip to the palate. Deep currant and wild berry flavors are nicely spiced, while this is fit and on the money through the finish. Drink through 2025. Vine Connections. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $33 92 Puramun 2016 Reserva Malbec (Uco Valley). Full plum and berry aromas are inviting and offer just a…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 93 Sightglass 2018 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Malbec makes up 25% of this wine, with the fruit coming from Stillwater Creek Vineyard. The aromas are immediately appealing, with plentiful notes of roasted coffee, savory herb, chocolate, licorice, plum and cherry cordial. The palate is flavorful, layered and rich but also has a sense of liveliness, with the Malbec giving it a lift. The finish carries. It’s pure, unadulterated hedonism, a stellar example of the variety. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $45 93 Soos Creek 2017 Terrible Beauty Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Fruit for this 100% Cabernet comes from Elephant Mountain, Klipsun and Weinbau vineyards. The aromas show purity, with notes of violet, dried and fresh herbs, cherry and scorched earth. The plum and cherry flavors are lip-smacking,…