Innholdsfortegnelse for November 2020 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITOR Dylan Garret SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, MW, Christina Pickard SPIRITS Kara Newman BEER John Holl FOOD…

ATTENTION OF THE GLASS WINE SCHOOL GETS OUT A rising tide of low-cost academic programs helps to break down barriers and make formal wine education more attainable. Almost anyone of age can obtain, taste and enjoy wine in some capacity. When it comes to mastering what’s in the bottle, however? That isn’t always the case. Most traditional wine certifications require countless hours of rigorous study and hundreds to thousands of dollars, two big barriers that put the subject out of reach to many. That’s begun to change. A new wave of low-cost or free virtual offerings is making wine education more accessible. Whether you want to pursue a career in wine or simply fuel a passion, the following courses, workshops and guides can get you started right from your…

Since first spilling into the mainstream music scene in the early 2000s, pop-punk band All Time Low has shared a set list with a variety of artists and dabbled in a diversity of musical styles that includes emotive melodies, alternative rock and high-energy anthems. After a hiatus following its 2017 record, the band returned two years later with another album, a hit song called “Everything is Fine,” and a whole new collaboration: Everything is Wine, a range made with Wines That Rock and E2 Winery. The debut wine, a Cabernet Sauvignon, sold out within an hour. A second selection, released a few months later, proved just as popular. This April, the foursome returned to its original loud, fast and pop-laced sound with an eighth studio album, Wake Up, Sunshine,…

Recently, a growing number of U.S. winemakers has been ditching richness and emphasizing acidity to create wines that are light in body and, notably, that are lower in alcohol, with levels below 13.5% alcohol by volume (abv), rather than the Wine & Spirit Education Trust (WSET) definition of “low alcohol wines” at 11% abv and under. With vines that climb up to the cooler heights of 6,000 feet, most wines produced by New Mexico’s Vivác Winery are inevitably lower in alcohol than, say, Cabernet Sauvignon from California’s valley floor. The style appeals for a few reasons. For one, these pours are relatively easy to integrate into daily life. “If the alcohol dominates, it kills the layered complexity of the wine,” says Michele Padberg, who co-owns the winery. She believes…

When Danielle Zig, cofounder/CEO of specialty craft rum brand Coconut Cartel, partnered with a distillery to create a naturally flavored coconut rum, she tried just about everything. “We tried fat-washing rum,” she says, infusing the spirit with coconut oil and then freezing it to skim off the fat. “We tried putting coconut flakes into the still, [but] that didn’t work to give us the profile we wanted.” Eventually, she thought to try an unusual workaround: She used fresh coconut water instead of regular H2O to “proof,” or dilute, the Guatemalan rum down to 40% alcohol by volume (abv). Most spirits are distilled to exceedingly high alcohol levels that would be difficult for most people to handle. To make them easier to swallow, spirits producers have long used water to…

CARMENÈRE 91 Casas del Toqui 2017 Court Rollan Mater Alto Totihue Carmenère (Cachapoal Valley). Warm, earthy berry aromas are oaky, herbal and a bit flaccid when all totaled. Reflecting a hot year, this feels full and creamy on the palate, with tartaric acidity providing a sense of balance. Dark-fruit and spice flavors are varietally herbal, while this tastes chocolaty and briary on the finish, with residual acidity keeping things afloat. Via Pacifica Imports. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $35 91 San Pedro 2018 1865 Selected Vineyards Carmenère (Maule Valley). Spicy berry aromas are accented by black tea and leafy scents that create an ideal Carmenère nose. A tightly concentrated palate offers mixed berry flavors touched up by the right level of oak and spice. A steady finish brings juicy acidity and…

DOURO 94 Poças 2019 Branca da Ribeira (Douro). This wood-aged wine, a blend of Arinto and Códega, comes from vineyards close to the ruined castle of Numão in the Douro Superior region. It is, of course, young, and while it is already beautifully textured, it has so much to offer for the future. The wine should certainly be aged and probably not drunk before 2023. Tri-Vin Imports. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $100 93 Quinta da Rede 2018 Grande Reserva (Douro). Arinto and Rabigato in equal proportions and nine months in wood have produced an impressively rich, creamy, spicy wine. It is dense from lees aging, ripe and full of white fruits that are touched by citrus. Drink this fine wine from 2021. M Imports, LLC. Editors’ Choice. —R.V.…

VENTOUX 93 Martinelle 2017 Ventoux. Fresh cassis and blackberry flood this gorgeously plummy blend of Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre and Counoise. Sourced from high-altitude, limestone soils, it’s voluptuous but briskly balanced. The long finish is marked by fine-tipped tannins and lingering hints of bramble, dried mint and garrigue. It’s at peak now through 2027. North Berkeley Imports. —A.I. abv: 14.7% Price: $25 92 Château Juvénal 2017 La Terre du Petit Homme (Ventoux). Unctuous and rich, this full-bodied blend of Grenache, Syrah and Mourvèdre is a hedonistic expression of the Ventoux. Densely concentrated flavors of crème de cassis and plum preserve are streaked by vanilla, licorice and clove. Soft tannins accentuate its plush disposition. At peak now, the wine should hold through 2027. Misa Imports. —A.I. abv: 15% Price: $18 92 Domaine…

SICILIA BIANCO 93 Tasca d’Almerita 2019 Mozia Fondazione Whitaker Grillo (Sicilia). Aromas of white spring flowers, Mediterranean brush, citrus and tropical fruit waft out of the glass. On the tangy, totally delicious palate, bright acidity and a saline mineral vein accompany ripe honeydew, juicy orange slice, wild herb and a hint of white almond. Dalla Terra Winery Direct. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $24 93 Tasca d’Almerita 2018 Nozze d’Oro (Sicilia). Aromas of fragrant spring flower and white stone fruit with a delicate whiff of honey lift out of the glass. On the racy palate, vibrant acidity lends youthful tension to green melon, ginger and white pepper before a saline finish. Drink now, or hold for even more complexity. Drink through 2025. Winebow. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $36 92…

It’s midsummer, and I’m waist deep in tomato plants. My backyard veggie patch, a circular garden where an above-ground swimming pool used to be, has exploded. The giant asparagus fronds have belly flopped over the top of the kale, the green beans race up the wire fence and the weeds force their way through the layers of hay meant to suppress them. This is the patch of land that once caused me to burst into tears at the site of a virus that, in a single night, destroyed all my cucumbers; it’s the land that led my five year old and me to leap for joy upon discovering a trove of tuberous treasures beneath the handful of potatoes we plonked into the earth. It is this plot of dirt…

The cuisine at Musaafer, a new and notable spot in Houston, is inspired by the culinary diversity across all of India’s states. Chef Mayank Istwal developed this seasonal soup recipe for the home kitchen. Though he prefers to garnish with pumpkin-seed brittle and pumpkin mousse, pumpkin seeds and purée work almost as well. CURRIED PUMPKIN SOUP Courtesy Mayank Istwal, executive chef, Musaafer by The Spice Route Co., Houston 2 pounds peeled and seeded pie pumpkin or butternut squash, cut in 2-inch cubes2 tablespoons olive oil2 tablespoons Madras curry powder, plus more to garnish, if desired⅓ cup chopped red onion2 tablespoons minced garlic2 tablespoons chopped leeks or scallions1 tablespoon chopped celery1 tablespoon brown sugar1 teaspoon salt, plus more to taste2 tablespoons heavy creamToasted pumpkin seeds, for garnish Heat oven to…

After a long day in the brewery or an intense round of tastings, many brewers will, somewhat unsurprisingly, crave a sip of something different. While some choose wine or cider, many others reach for a cocktail. Enamored with the creativity of bartenders who can combine spirits with endless other ingredients to pack new, exciting flavor combinations into a single serving, it was just a matter of time before some brewers would integrate their infatuation into beer experiences. Here, we break down three recent releases that do just that and shed light on the classic cocktails that inspired them. THE COCKTAIL MOJITO Cuba’s traditional highball, Miami club culture popularized this drink stateside in the 1990s. In the region’s muggy climate, it’s the ultimate refresher. But topped generously with soda water, this…

Believed to have originated on the coast of Basque Country, Cabernet Franc was introduced to France’s Loire Valley more than 700 years ago. There, it was planted widely and gained favor locally for its nervy, flirty, easy-drinking pours. It was during the 17th century, when brought to Bordeaux, that Cab Franc earned its distinction as a blending component alongside Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and the rest. That reputation has largely held tight since, and the grape, now spread far beyond French borders, is most often found in Bordeaux-style blends. In recent years, however, Cab Franc has begun to regain favor as a varietal wine, thanks in part to increasing preferences for delicate but savory, fresh flavors like those typical of the grape. This is particularly true in the Northeastern and…

Applying the word “value” to Oregon Pinot Noir may seem like a bit of a stretch. Prices for most limited-production Oregon Pinots hover between $40 and $50 and head up from there. That’s not to say you can’t hunt down a bottle for $15 or $18 that is labeled Oregon Pinot Noir. You can even find it in boxes and cans. But value is not just about price, and finding high-quality, low-cost Oregon Pinot Noir can be a challenge. Why are prices so high? Pinot Noir from anywhere is often more expensive than other varietal red wines because it’s difficult to grow and challenging to vinify. It often does best in cool-climate regions on the margins of viability, where dangers such as spring frosts, midsummer hailstorms and early autumn freezes…

When shopping for the great wines of the world, you can learn a lot about a wine’s potential for high quality from the appellation on the bottle. The same is true when looking for great values. Certain Northern California regions, often designated as American Viticultural Areas (AVAs) on the bottle, provide important clues for value-minded shoppers. Look for wines with smaller, county-wide appellations or regional AVAs to give yourself an edge. In general, the smaller the region the more likely the wine will be higher quality. The corollary is that the widest appellations often produce the simplest wines, which is the case for hundreds of Golden State wines labeled as California AVA. It means they could have been made from grapes grown anywhere in the state, often selected largely for…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 96 Valduero 2001 12 Años Gran Reserva (Ribera del Duero). For full review see page 110. Vinaio Imports. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14% Price: $800 95 Valduero 2011 Gran Reserva (Ribera del Duero). For full review see page 111. Editors’ Choice. abv: 14.5% Price: $99 94 Arzuaga 2009 Gran Reserva (Ribera del Duero). Smooth berry aromas are savory and offer a touch of tarry freshly laid asphalt. A deeply layered palate is rich in a chocolaty way, while flavors of blackberry, prune, oak spice and chocolate reflect a warm vintage (which 2009 was). A rounded and full finish is powerful yet balanced. Drink through 2024. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —M.S. abv: 14% Price: $120 90 Legaris 2015 Páramos de Legaris (Ribera del Duero). A fully ripe and…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 95 Domaine Vacheron 2018 L’Enclos des Remparts Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de France). Produced from a tiny vineyard of young, ungrafted vines, this wine is explosively rich and impressively textured. It brings so much intense minerality and texture from the flint soil to match the pure citrus and white fruits. Still young, it will be best from 2022. North Berkeley Imports. —R.V. abv: NA Price: $350 90 Florian Mollet 2019 Le Roque Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de France). This charming wine is scented with gooseberry and guava aromas. The tart palate offers lime and gooseberry flavors, with juicy, buoyant acidity and a long citrus finish laced with chalky, limestone minerality. Seaview Imports. —F.A. abv: 12% Price: $16 88 Fournier Père et Fils 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Vin de France). A bracing…

Think of cream liqueurs as the comfort food equivalent of the spirits world: cozy, slightly indulgent and a treat to enjoy when you need a little lift—as we all do these days. “I like to think of cream liqueurs as a reward,” says Brian Facquet, founder/distiller of upstate New York’s Prohibition Distillery, which makes the Beaverkill Bourbon Cream. “The world still likes simple and sweet, the fattiness and richness of the cream, and a little bit of buzz.” A good cream liqueur feels like a luxe blanket tucked around the shoulders, simutaneously warming and decadent. The low-alcohol nature of most cream liqueurs makes them more approachable for consumers leery of super-strong spirits. Bottles reviewed this month ranged from 12.5% abv, on par with many wine styles, to a ceiling of…

Follow us @WineEnthusiast CANNED WINE SPRITZERS The humble spritzer may have long been a punchline for “real” wine drinkers, but modern producers are using fresh flavors to update these sparkling mainstays. For our picks, visit winemag.com/Spritzers SQUARE BIZ It’s no secret that we love the quality and value of many boxed wines on the market today. Sommeliers, wine consultants and our own staff reveal some of their favorites at winemag.com/BoxWine COCKTAILS TO GO Great cocktails are no longer exclusive to high-end bars. These ready-to-drink alternatives spare you from having to pay top dollar. Find five to try at winemag.com/CannedCocktails…

Sustainability has always been part of the program at Seattle cocktail bar Navy Strength, says Chris Elford, who owns the venue, and several others, with wife Anu Apte. That initiative includes finding a use for any glugs of wine left at the end of the night. Elford’s solution? Stash them in the freezer until there’s enough to make a cordial that can later be used to sweeten cocktails. Theoretically, the aromatic, sweet-tart cordial can be made with any type of white wine. “But I pretty much just drink Riesling,” he says, “so that’s what’s in mine.” FOUR HORSEMEN OF THE COINCIDENCE Courtesy Chris Elford, owner, Navy Strength, Seattle* 1½ ounces mezcal or Tequila¾ ounce Riesling citrus cordial (recipe follows)Tajín spice mix, for garnish In cocktail shaker filled with ice,…

BITTER In the last 20 years or so, Brussels sprouts have been bred to be less bitter, which may explain their newfound popularity. Still, they retain a pleasant bitterness that lends balance and complexity. Vouvray, made from Chenin Blanc, has a honeyed, floral character that helps round out the sprouts’ sharp edge. NUTTY Brussels sprouts have an innate nuttiness that can be accentuated by very high heat as well as with the addition of nuts. Vin Jaune, from the Jura region of France, is made in a similar manner to dry Sherry and shares its intensely nutty flavor. It would be a daring match for any preparation of Brussels sprouts that includes sweet or nutty flavors. VEGETAL When part of a dish or meal, the vegetable-garden flavor of Brussels sprouts…

It took two Americans to recognize that the future of English winemaking lay in sparkling wine. In 1988, Stuart and Sandy Moss planted classic Champagne varieties Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier. Until then, English vineyards had been dominated by early-ripening varieties like Bacchus and Seyval Blanc, which were bred for the country’s marginal climate but struggled to find a market. Fast forward three decades, and you’ll find a thriving, fast-growing industry that makes world-class sparkling wines. The fact that Champagne houses Taittinger and Pommery have planted vineyards here is a solid endorsement. Even Queen Elizabeth has vines in Windsor Great Park. Since 2000, vineyard acreage has quadrupled to 8,600 acres, planted mostly to top sparkling varieties Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinot Meunier. More than two-thirds of the country’s production…

RIESLING 91 Canvasback 2019 Riesling (Columbia Valley). This wine still hasn’t fully settled in, showing reduction initially. Behind it are aromas of lime and wet slate. The palate brings mouthwatering, electric acidity to the supremely flavorful lemon-lime flavors. Decant if drinking in the immediate term. —S.S. abv: 12.8% Price: $30 90 Januik 2018 Bacchus Vineyard Riesling (Columbia Valley). The aromas offer notes of flower, pear and lime leaf, initially seeming subdued but opening over time. The palate drinks bone dry, with the strong sense of acidity. —S.S. abv: 12.5% Price: $20 89 Pacific Rim 2019 J Riesling (Columbia Valley). Exuberant aromas of orange rind, ginger and freshly peeled satsuma are followed by medium-sweet flavors and vibrant acidity. Rose petal notes linger on the finish. Best Buy. —S.S. abv: 11.5% Price:…

SPARKLING WINES 94 Gusbourne Estate 2015 Blanc de Blancs Brut (England). The nose bursts with ideas of lemon and lemon zest, whipped cream and spiky green apple. This vivid aromatic spectrum is replicated on the slender palate where the foam bubbles up to reinforce that sense of weightless freshness. But deeper down the wine is anchored in depth, with subtle yeast and chalkiness sending their balancing, cool smoothness to unite with that lemony verve. Lovely and fresh now but this will reward cellaring. Drink 2022 and onward. Broadbent Selections, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $90 94 Wiston Estate Winery 2015 Blanc de Blancs Brut (England). Hints of smoke, shortbread, chalk and wheat bran all seem to unite in the lemony gleam of the wine’s nose. The exquisitely slender but profound…

CAHORS 94 Château Eugénie 2017 Haute Collection (Cahors). Fermented and aged in wood, this is a richly structured wine. With its fine, ripe blackberry fruits that contrast with the firm tannins, it is still developing. It shows great density and plenty of aging potential. Drink from 2022. The Wine Company. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $40 94 Georges Vigouroux 2017 Château de Haute-Serre Cuvée Géron Dadine de Haute-Serre (Cahors). Apart from the heavy bottle, this is a fine, richly impressive wine. Named after the 15th century owner of the estate, the wine comes from selected parcels. Aged in wood, it is dense, richly structured and full of the ripest black plum fruits. It’s impressive and ageworthy. Drink from 2022. Baron Francois Ltd. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $49…

BARBARESCO 96 Albino Rocca 2017 Ovello Vigna Loreto (Barbaresco). Ripe dark-skinned berry, iris and a whiff of eucalyptus emerge from the glass. Elegantly structured and delicious, the full-bodied palate doles out mature morello cherry, raspberry, white pepper and star anise while polished tannins lend finesse. Drink 2022–2029. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $63 96 Albino Rocca 2017 Ronchi (Barbaresco). Rose, iris, menthol and mature berry are just some of the aromas you’ll find on this stunning, full-bodied wine. On the polished, savory palate, notes of star anise and tobacco accent a core of ripe Marasca cherry while fine-grained tannins offer structure and elegance. Drink 2023–2030. Classic Wine Imports, Inc. —K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $64 95 Albino Rocca 2017 Montersino (Barbaresco). Perfumed and loaded with finesse, this opens…

American craft beer drinkers are in the middle of a deep love affair with hops, but tell even the most dedicated fan that you are doing round after round after round of double India pale ale (DIPA) reviews and expect to receive an “oof” in response. As the name suggests, double IPAs, sometimes called imperial IPAs, or the even further boundary pushing triple IPAs, turn the dial up on all of the ingredients, the alcohol content and the international bittering units (IBUs). Double IPAs turn up the dial on all of the ingredients, the alcohol content and IBUs. Mapping the progression by style, the average pale ale typically clocks in IBUs in the 30 to 40 range. Standard IPAs are in the 50s to 70s. Double IPAs push the number…