Innholdsfortegnelse for August 2020 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITORS Dylan Garret, Siobhan Wallace SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, MW, Christina Pickard SPIRITS Kara Newman BEER John Holl FOOD Nils Bernstein TRAVEL Lauren Mowery LIFESTYLE & ENTERTAINING Mike DeSimone and Jeff Jenssen EDITORIAL OFFICES HEADQUARTERS 200 Summit Lake DriveValhalla,…

This issue, we cheer retailers for providing one of life’s simplest pleasures: wine at home. Beyond relaxing, sipping in our most comfortable settings allows bottomless escapism for practically zero effort. Ahead, editors’ picks for sensory retreat. “The 2019 Piquette from Troon Vineyards is both truly unique and the ultimate garden wine. Just 11% abv, lightly spritzy, bone dry and a gorgeous persimmon hue, it’s a swoon-worthy, day-brightener that instantly takes my wife Karen and me to rows of flowers, shrubs, ornamental and heritage trees, not unlike our own expansive gardens.” —Paul Gregutt, contributing editor, Oregon STAYING POWER EDITORS' GETAWAY SIPS Whether visiting far-flung wine regions or drinking in our own neighborhood, Wine Enthusiast editors like to get out and go. But we’ll let you in on a little secret: One…

Music is a running theme throughout Copper & Kings American Brandy Company in Louisville, Kentucky, where thumping beats play to barrels that age in the basement and the stills are named for women in Bob Dylan songs. Pinot Noir, which often has notes of cherry, provided the inspiration for this cocktail, also named for a Dylan tune. Served at the distillery’s bar, Alex&nder, it showcases the venue’s aged brandy and dynamite brandied cherries. Feel free to use your favorite bottles and crank up whatever soundtrack you prefer. HEAVEN’S DOOR Courtesy Hunter Ratliff, bartender, Alex&nder, Louisville 2 brandied cherries (recipe at right), plus one for garnish½ ounce lemon juice¼ ounce cherry juice from jar of brandied cherries¾ ounce simple syrup2 ounces aged brandy2 ounces Pinot Noir In bottom of large…

Just as a dynamic actor can be pigeonholed as a particular character, plenty of captivating grapes are vinified in one style for so long, we never expect to see much else from them. But not all producers are keen to typecast. Around the world, winemakers craft terroir-driven bottlings that demonstrate the full spectrum of their fruit. Ahead, discover three script-flipping selections that reflect varieties in a different way than you may be accustomed to. Martha Stoumen Wines 2018 Honeymoon Mendocino County Historically used for blends and distillates like Cognac, some assume Colombard is neutral or lacks personality. Even vinified solo, it’s noted for basic, albeit crisp, white wines. This blend of 85% Colombard and 15% Chardonnay proves otherwise. Founder/winemaker Martha Stoumen selects dry-farmed Colombard grown on deep-rooted vines planted…

Wine lovers have long been told that certain glasses are absolutely essential to optimize specific vinous characteristics or emphasize a particular pour. The truth, though? While some shapes may enhance your perception of wines like Burgundy and Bordeaux, what they really offer is visual enjoyment and a sense of occasion. So, sure, all those sheer silhouettes do improve your experience, but those who don’t have the space or budget for an array of styles can savor wine at its peak just as well from a single, top-quality piece of universal glassware. SIMPLE SCIENCE As long as the diameter of the nonstem part of a glass, called the cuppa or bowl, is wider than its opening, the effect on aroma and flavor perception is minimal. Hildegarde Heymann, Ph.D., a sensory…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials…

CABERNET FRANC 90 Sutcliffe 2016 Cabernet Franc (Colorado). Black cherry and black raspberry aromas blend with peppercorns and tobacco on the nose. The palate offers black plum and blueberry, layered with cayenne and sweet baking spices. Sandy tannins envelop the palate, but the acidity is equally powerful, and they come together in a perfect tango. The finish extends the palate, adding a tart cranberry note. —F.A. abv: 14.7% Price: $32 89 Buckel Family Wine 2017 Cabernet Franc (Colorado). The nose combines aromas of black raspberry and cherry with pine cones and warm baking spices. The berry notes continue on to the palate, joined by vanilla, cedar, clove and tobacco. Tart acidity keeps things fresh and energetic, while crushed velvet tannins add structure without overwhelming. Berry notes turn tart and linger…

WHITE WINES DÃO 92 Seacampo 2019 Casa Américo Reserva (Dão). A rounded, toasty wine that is full of white fruits, spice and toastiness all on the road to integration. Citric flavors, apricots and spice give the wine a wonderfully elegant character. Drink from 2021. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $16 92 Seacampo 2017 Homenagem Américo (Dão). A field blend of 80-year-old vines gives this wine complexity and richness. Yellow fruits and ripe cantaloupe are shot through with lemon freshness. The wood aging is finely judged underlining the wine’s fruits. Drink now. Aidil Wines/Old World Import. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 91 Global Wines 2017 Casa de Santar Reserva Branco (Dão). The aristocratic Santar estate has produced a beautifully textured wine. The wood aging has brought in nutmeg…

FIANO DI AVELLINO 93 Mastroberardino 2018 Radici (Fiano di Avellino). For full review see page 87. abv: 13% Price: $28 93 Mastroberardino 2016 Stilema (Fiano di Avellino). For full review see page 88. abv: 13% Price: $65 93 Villa Raiano 2018 Ventidue (Fiano di Avellino). Spanish broom, yellow stone fruit, honey and smoky notes waft out of the glass. Reflecting the nose, the elegant, radiant palate shows apricot, golden apple and a hint of honey alongside smoky flint and bright acidity. Wine Icons. —K.O. abv: 12.5% Price: $29 92 Feudi di San Gregorio 2019 Pietracalda (Fiano di Avellino). Spring blossom, orchard fruit and a whiff of wild herb form the nose. Elegantly structured, the fresh, enveloping palate features mature peach, lemon drop and a hint of nutmeg alongside tangy mineral.…

Flavored gin has been on a white-hot streak in England, the spiritual birthplace of gin. Over the past year or so, it has jumped the pond, and is slowly starting to show up on liquor shelves here in the U.S. Yet, here’s the problem: How do you define flavored gin? Gin already is required to contain pine-scented juniper as its dominant flavoring. Since specific parameters aren’t yet available in either country, we’ll categorize any gin that a has readily identifiable flavoring in addition to juniper as a flavored gin. Juniper will always be included, but it’s up to the distiller to decide which other flavorings will shine through. “It comes down to the specific botanicals the distiller wants to promote and champion,” explains James Chase, director of England’s Chase Distillery,…

Riesling flourishes worldwide, but nowhere does it inspire as fervent focus as in Germany, its birthplace. Cultivated throughout the country’s 13 wine regions, it mirrors the fascinating diversity of local terroir. Bottlings can range from bone dry, or trocken, to delicately or even lusciously sweet, and can be featherlight or buxom, still or sparkling. The Mosel is best known for slim, spine-tingling expressions, wafting of blossoms and apple, yet anchored by slate and steel. In the Rheingau, Riesling is often a bit richer, offering pristine apricot and white-peach flavors with a firm, stony undertone. Kabinett and the intensely aromatic, honeyed late-harvest wines designated by degree of sweetness such as spätlese, auslese, beerenauslese or trockenbeerenauslese are historic to both the Mosel and Rheingau regions. Increasingly warm climates, however, have made…

A rich, fortified wine, Port is widely recognized as a dessert or digestive drink but isn’t often perceived to be much else. Available in a range of styles, however, the signature Portuguese beverage can make a delicious complement throughout a meal. “There are two major challenges with pairing food with Port: high alcohol and sweetness,” says Rachel Speckan, marketing director at Maverick Wine Company, an import/distribution company based in Chicago. Generally, Port works best alongside dishes that are lower in spice, with a lot of savory qualities. “Umami and proteins are ideal partners to utilize,” says Speckan. “Herbs such as sage, rosemary, fennel and star anise accentuate the herbal and floral characters inherent in the grapes used to make Port.” And there are a lot of them: More than…

ROSÉS 92 Domaine Divio 2019 Rosé (Willamette Valley). For full review see page 89. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.8% Price: $28 91 Failla 2019 Rosé (Willamette Valley). A classy and thoroughly irresistible all-Pinot Noir rosé, it’s perfumed with rose petals and hints of orange pekoe tea. The palate has a lovely creamy quality, with a mix of raspberry and apricot fruit. Picked early, foot-crushed and fermented in concrete eggs, this is a trendy style. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $25 91 Quady North 2019 Dry Rosé of Grenache (Applegate Valley). Don’t let the pale copper shade dissuade you—this wine is bursting with aromas of wildflowers, and rich flavors of strawberries and melon. It’s everything a young rosé should be: juicy and full flavored, with complexity beyond simple young fruit. —P.G.…

RIESLING 94 Hermann J. Wiemer 2017 HJW Vineyard Riesling (Seneca Lake). Bright aromas of grapefruit peel, ripe apple and white blossoms carry the full, effusive nose. Medium in weight, the dry palate is driven by grapefruit and tangerine zest notes, lifted by earthy spice and filled out by a fleshy apple flavor. A grip of white tea brings a pleasing frame to it all, with tangerine peels lingering on the dry finish. —A.P. abv: 12.5% Price: $39 94 Hermann J. Wiemer 2016 HJW Bio Estate Bottled and Grown Riesling (Seneca Lake). For full review see page 84. abv: 12.5% Price: $45 93 Hermann J. Wiemer 2018 Magdalena Vineyard Riesling (Seneca Lake). Zesty aromas of waxy lemon peels, crushed stone and fennel bulb carry the refreshing nose. The palate is more…

QUESTION EVERYTHING Ever been afraid to ask a question about wine? You’re not alone. We talked to five wine-shop pros about the questions they hear most. Find their answers at winemag.com/RetailQuestions HOW TO FIND THE BEST DEALS Wine lovers know that high prices don’t always mean the best bottles. Embracing satellite regions and making friends at the shop will help you discover your next hidden gem. Learn the secrets at winemag.com/RetailTips WINE LABEL CHEAT SHEET Wine labels can read like code—how do you know which terms are necessary and which are nonsense? Your guide on what to absorb and what to ignore is at winemag.com/WineLabels WINE, ONLINE It can be hard to top the vast selection offered by online retailers. Where should you start? From wine clubs to wineries…

♦ BUTTERY Avocados are sometimes used more for texture than flavor. Their silky flesh can even be substituted for butter in baked recipes. A very crisp wine will cut through all the richness and cleanse the palate. White Vinho Verde has spritzy lemon and lime flavors that make it a no-brainer with avocado toast. ♦ SPICY An avocado’s flesh is very high in beta-caryophyllene, an aromatic compound found in cannabis, as well as cloves, black pepper and rosemary. Though avocado doesn’t taste of these things, they make a nice complement. Zinfandel, known to feature these flavors, has moderate tannins that will play well with the fruit and help cut through its fat. ♦ CITRUS Just as butter has a lactic tang, avocados have a citrus undertone, almost like a lemon…

WINE PAIRING Monte Xanic 2019 Viña Kristel Sauvignon Blanc (Valle de Guadalupe) With notes of pineapple, mango and guava, and seductive aromas of citrus blossoms, this wine will transport you to the Mexican seaside. Like the lime wedges served with this dish, the wine’s crisp acidity has a refreshing effect on the rich corn. ELOTES 6 tablespoons mayonnaise3 tablespoons sour cream1 tablespoon fresh-squeezed lime juice½ teaspoon chile powder, plus more to taste¾ cup fine-crumbled Cotija cheese or queso fresco4 ears corn, shuckedChopped cilantro, to finishLime wedges, for serving Combine mayo, sour cream, lime juice and chile powder in mixing bowl. On separate plate, sprinkle cheese in single layer. Set aside. Warm grill or cast-iron pan over high heat. Add corn, in batches, if necessary, and cook, turning, until lightly charred,…

If you’ve ever tried a beer that got pushed to the back of the fridge or forgotten about, you’ve likely tasted something different than expected. That’s because, like wine, the structure and character of beer will change as it ages. Also like wine, some beers are meant to be consumed young, while others benefit from time in proper storage. Technically, most will be OK to drink for an indefinite period, thanks to pasteurization. Just don’t expect everything to taste great. WHAT TO CELLAR You have two basic options: Stock up on something you like and find out how it ages, or choose beers that can stand up to maturation. A higher alcohol content will help with preservation, so look for beers with at least 8% alcohol by volume (abv).…

Whether you’re choosing a wine for a special occasion or looking for something to pair with your Tuesday night lasagna, chances are you’re selecting that bottle from a store. But in today’s world, wine shops are more than just beverage outlets. They’ve become trusted advisors, educators and retreats where we go to think about wine and wine only. As we do more of our drinking at home, retailers become increasingly important to tasting and discovering new wines, as well as deepening our appreciation of old favorites. Like Wine Enthusiast’s other awards and best-of lists, we chose the retailers listed here by drawing upon our wide network of editors to share their experiences. There was no formula, just a lot of discussion about what makes a superlative bottle shop. We’re proud…

Pinot Noir and Burgundy, Burgundy and Pinot Noir—their alliance is the closest thing the wine world has to a creation myth. All the elements are there: ancient vineyards, a history of quality viticulture that dates back to the Middle Ages and an indigenous grape that reflects each nuance of site and soil. It brings forth wines whose perfume and depth can be so haunting, so exquisite that they cast an eternal spell. Viticulture can, of course, be traced back much further in Asia Minor and across various European regions. But Burgundy’s early focus on quality with this single grape makes the region stand out. Its continuity is unique. Site-specific viticulture as we know it today was born on this 37-mile stretch of east-facing limestone escarpment called the Côte d’Or, or…

We’re living in the midst of an embarrassment of riches when it comes to Pinot Noir in Sonoma. Throughout the county’s appellations, including Carneros, which has its foothold in parts of both Napa and Sonoma, the region has been blessed with a string of great vintages that are current on the market, stretching at the moment from the 2016 red wines through the 2019 rosés. “These sorts of qualities are unexpected from a very hot vintage like 2017, but we busted our ass to bring all the fruit in as quickly as possible.” The quality of the 2017s in particular should be noted. While it was the first year California wasn’t in a yearlong drought, it saw dangerous heat spikes during harvest, followed by fires in October. Pinot was picked…

MERLOT 92 Seven Hills Winery 2017 30th Anniversary Vintage Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Marking the winery’s 30th anniversary with some of the fruit coming from the original vines planted in the valley, this wine offers generous aromas of fresh red raspberry, spice and baking chocolate leading to plush, textured red fruit flavors that show depth, with coffee notes on the finish. A firm tannic structure backs it all up. It’s a Washington Merlot prototype, thoroughly delicious. Editors’ Choice. —S.S. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 92 Seven Hills Winery 2017 SHW Founding Vineyard Merlot (Walla Walla Valley). Fruit for this wine comes from the original 1981 plantings, the first in the valley. Cherry, spice, baker’s chocolate, barrel spice and crushed red berry aromas are out front. Full-bodied, layered, lush fruit and barrel…

CHARDONNAY 96 Vasse Felix 2018 Heytesbury Chardonnay (Margaret River). One of the most highly regarded Chardonnays in Australia, the 2018 Heytesbury shines. The reductive, flinty style typical to this wine is still there but is more reigned in these days: roasted hazelnuts layered with delicate citrus and stone fruit. The palate is beautifully complex and highly textural, nutty, mineral nuances flowing through to a lengthy finish. Elegant yet powerful, drinking gorgeously now but with the ability to age for several decades. Negociants USA–Winebow. —C.P. abv: 13% Price: $78 95 Giant Steps 2019 Chardonnay (Yarra Valley). For full review see page 83. abv: 13% Price: $30 94 Ben Haines 2019 Chardonnay (Yarra Valley). Small producer Ben Haines once again proves his talents in crafting youthful, textural whites without all the winemaking…

RED WINES BLAYE CÔTES DE BORDEAUX 91 Bel Ormeau 2018 Cuvée Les Herits (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). This rich, wood-aged wine is full of black fruits. Cocoa flavors are a strong presence in this wine along with the peppered plum and dense tannins. Drink the wine from 2022. Mr. Wine. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $33 91 Château Bourdieu 2017 N° 1 (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). Juicy fruitiness is evident in this ripe, full-bodied wine. It is stylish, with red-fruit flavors and good acidity combining with supporting tannins to give a fragrant wine that needs some time to develop fully. Drink from 2021. Milton’s Distributing Co., Inc. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $35 91 Château Frédignac 2017 La Favorite (Blaye Côtes de Bordeaux). A perfumed, smoky wine, this…

RIESLING SPÄTLESE 94 Joh. Jos. Prüm 2018 Graacher Himmelreich Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). Subtle notes of yellow peach and pollen introduce this gorgeously sunny yet complex Spätlese. Flavors of tangerine and preserved quince drench the palate in waves of zesty sweet-tart fruit, but there’s also a depth of smoke, slate and struck flint in the backdrop. Delightful already, this will continue to open and meld through 2035. Valckenberg International, Inc. —A.I. abv: 8.5% Price: $47 94 Joh. Jos. Prüm 2018 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Spätlese (Mosel). For a bottling that usually requires years to show its colors, this surprisingly open, lavishly perfumed Spätlese wafts of pristine white peach and blossom. It’s delightfully honeyed yet invigorating, balancing layers of apricot and yellow cherry flavors against crushed slate and dazzling acidity. While tempting in…

On a recent walk through of the fermentation cellar at Arizona Wilderness, a brewery in Gilbert, Arizona, a visitor had to walk around huge crates of locally picked grapefruit that was waiting to be zested by the staff. Within hours the whole room was going to be filled with a lively citrus aroma and the zest would be added to a gose that was idling in fermenters. The idea of adding fruit to beer is nothing new. In Belgium there are lambics fruited with peach or raspberry, and krieks are made with cherries. Fruits like strawberries and blueberries have long been common in summer ales, both as ingredients and as garnish. Fruit beers in particular have a way of bringing a diverse group of drinkers to a glass. For many…

Wine was not a common beverage for my family growing up. In college, I drank strawberry-flavored wine, and then I moved up to white Zinfandel. It wasn’t until my late twenties that my interest in wine started, and I set out to find my niche. At the time, I worked in the accounting department at a five-star hotel in Beverly Hills. My manager gifted me dinner in the hotel restaurant, and I invited my mother and twin sister to join me for the affluent dining experience. What I didn’t realize was that, as host, I was responsible for ordering the wine. Our sommelier approached the table, wordlessly handed me the wine menu and walked away. The list looked like a page from a foreign country travel log. I had no…