Innholdsfortegnelse for June/July 2020 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITORS Dylan Garret, Siobhan Wallace SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, MW, Christina Pickard SPIRITS Kara Newman BEER John…

Great rosé can be made anywhere in the world, from any red wine grape. That includes hybrid varieties, those made from crossing two or more different grape species. Though most were originally cultivated for increased disease resistance, these biologically diverse varieties have since proven they are also able to tolerate a range of environments. And as climate change rapidly re-charts the regions where specific grapes will succeed, more and more winemakers have turned to crossbreeds to help meet the still-booming demand for pink bottlings. That’s where American winemakers get a bit of a leg up. Producers in the Midwest and northeastern U.S. have a rich history of farming hybrids derived from Vitis vinifera with North American native species, like Vitis labrusca or Vitis riparia, which can survive—and even thrive—in…

Is it possible to channel a city into a glass? A number of Los Angeles gin producers think so. While many popular interpretations of “local” seem focused on regional produce, these urban distillers are incorporating flavors inspired by the city’s dynamic food scene and multinational culture. “Gin has no hard-and-fast rules, except for [a neutral spirit base and the inclusion of] juniper,” says Melkon Khosrovian, cofounder of Greenbar Distillery. This flexibility means the spirit is a veritable blank canvas for flavors and concepts. Greenbar’s City Bright Gin offers one of the best examples of this city-centric perspective. “Our version [of terroir] is culture versus agriculture,” says Khosrovian, who adds that the gin was made with LA’s “vibrant immigrant food scene” in mind. “It’s about terroir being the people of…

Why did you make the jump into wine from the fashion world? Well, they’re not that far from each other. They intertwine all the time. I am French, so wine was something I grew up with. We always had wine at the table. My mother brought me up speaking French, so I accumulated a lot of French friends here in New York over the years. [One] happens to be a wine distributor, and during one of our “franglais” conversations where we go back and forth from English to French, he said, “I think we could make you a rosé. Would you be interested?” And I was like, “Absolutely.” How did you decide to work with Château Auguste? My friend, the wine distributor, has several really strong relationships with multiple chateaus…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean P. Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials…

DÃO 95 Casa da Passarella 2015 Villa Oliveira Touriga Nacional (Dão). Touriga Nacional, native to the Dão region, here reveals both its structure and fine perfumed character. Solid black fruits and rich tannins combine into a major wine that could still age further. Drink now and until 2027. M Imports, LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $60 94 Casa da Passarella 2017 O Fugitivo Tinta Pinheira (Dão). Known as Rufete in Spain, the Tinta Pinheira grape is also found in central Portugal. This example of the grape has a fine and smooth character, layered with some dusty tannins as well as a drier core. This memorable wine is finely constructed and will benefit from further aging. Drink from 2021. M Imports, LLC. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $50 93 Casa…

MONTEPULCIANO 92 Illuminati 2013 Pieluni Riserva (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo Colline Teramane). An intense aroma of brandied cherries melds with wood spice, mushroom and incense on the nose. The full-bodied palate is all about power, showing ample grip to the flavors of thick-skinned dark cherry and black plum, with tobacco and spice lingering on the sides. Despite all that intensity, there’s still lots of bright, vibrant acidity and structured yet fine-grained tannins to balance it all. Drink though 2025. Montcalm Wine Importers. —A.P. abv: 15% Price: $65 91 Binomio 2015 Riserva (Montepulciano d’Abruzzo). This joint venture between Fattoria La Valentina in Abruzzo and Inama Azienda Agricola in Veneto offers aromas of baked cherry, mentholated herbs and a hint of soy on the nose. Rounded and silken in feel, the rich red fruit…

CABERNET FRANC 93 Zorzal 2017 Eggo Franco Cabernet Franc (Tupungato). Dusty cherry and berry aromas are earthy and highly natural, with no overripe notes or oak. A full, ripe palate offers fine balance between weight and elegance, while this tastes of clean black fruits prior to a finish with dry tannins. This is fresh and exact, with little of the herbal character that often comes with Cabernet Franc. Drink through 2025. Brazos Wine Imports. —M.S. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 93 Zuccardi 2018 Poligonos del Valle de Uco San Pablo Cabernet Franc (Uco Valley). This racy Cabernet Franc from winemaker Sebastián Zuccardi is made entirely in concrete. Plum and berry tones are full and fresh on the nose and palate, while flavors of black fruit, herbs, tea and tomato linger on…

SYRAH 93 Gramercy 2017 Les Collines Vineyard Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas are expressive, with notes of grilled asparagus, violet, tangerine, brown stem, green olive and grilled meat. An acid-driven palate follows, chock-full of floral flavors with a lovely sense of texture. The balance is exquisite, kicking it up a notch. If there were a Wikipedia entry for this vineyard, this wine would deserve to be referenced. Put it on the dinner table to see it at its best. Drink after 2024; it will have a long life after that. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 13% Price: $54 93 Gramercy 2016 Syrah (Walla Walla Valley). The aromas draw you into the glass, with notes of fine chopped parsley, smoked meat, citrus zest, dried stem and wet gravel. A low-alcohol, über…

The Bourbon boom clearly continues apace. Just a few years ago, distillers worried that rising demand for the category would deplete stocks of America’s native corn-based whiskey and hustled to set new reserves aside to age. Today, we’re reaping the benefit of that foresight. This month’s crop includes a number of bottled-in-bond Bourbons, including offerings from Old Fitzgerald and Huber’s Single Barrel. For those not familiar with the term, bottled-in-bond is a government designation reaching as far back as the Bottled-in-Bond Act of 1897, which was enacted to ensure the quality of whiskey during an era when adulteration was rampant with neutral grain spirit, iodine or worse. The Bottled-in-Bond Act stipulated that the whiskey must be the product of one distilling season from one distillery (a vintage, if you will),…

WHERE CALIFORNIA PRODUCERS PLAY Winemakers are an adventurous bunch who love getting out into the natural world, and not just to spend time in the vineyard. Surrounded by northern California’s beautiful nature preserves and miles of Pacific Ocean coastline, most Napa or Sonoma producers will openly gush about more than a few favorite trails and outdoor retreats. Read on to see how they get away from it all. ALEXANDRE REMY Managing partner/winemaker, Atlas Wine Company A marathoner, Napa-based Remy loves Oat Hill Mine Trail in Calistoga for mountain biking. It’s “technical, challenging and [has] some of the best views of the valley.” For trail running, he heads to Skyline Wilderness Park, near to Atlas’s office. His favorite destination for family hikes is Westwood Hills Park in Napa. “The spider…

For oenophiles who increasingly opt for lighter, fresher reds, producers around California’s Santa Barbara County know just the grape to kick things into high gear: Gamay Noir. Traditionally produced in Beaujolais, the variety is establishing a happy home throughout the region, where a handful of winemakers already grow Gamay and anticipate more plantings to come. “Because of the juxtaposition of a sunny climate with cold ocean winds, our refrigerated-sunlight conditions prove to be an incredible place to grow cold-climate varieties like Gamay,” says John Faulkner, winemaker at Pence Vineyards & Winery in Sta. Rita Hills. Pence began growing the grape in 2014. Today, it has one of the most extensive Gamay programs around, recently adding two more acres. Consumers, though initially hesitant, have also gotten on board, and the…

COTEAUX D’AIX-EN-PROVENCE 93 Château Vignelaure 2019 Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). Produced from organic grapes, this ripe wine is well structured and richly elegant. It has depth and concentration as well as a touch of tannins from the Cabernet and Syrah in the blend. The wine is just ready to drink, although it will be better from late 2020. Monsieur Touton Selection Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $22 92 Château Paradis 2019 Terre des Anges Rosé (Coteaux d’Aix-en-Provence). With a dominance of Syrah and Mouvèdre, this is a rich, structured rosé. It has a strong character of ripe, juicy red fruits, as well as intense, tangy and refreshing acidity. The wine will be best in a few months, so wait until late 2020. Planet Wine. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $30 91 Château…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 95 Vizcarra 2015 Torralvo (Ribera del Duero). A hint of sweet maple on the nose gives way to blackberry, cassis and dark-plum aromas that are in great shape as they set up a lush and full palate. Ripe toasty blackberry and chocolate flavors remain fresh and fruity on a full finish that’s not too tannic. For a ripe year, this Ribera del Duero is in superb form. Drink through 2030. Olé Imports. Editors’ Choice. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $80 94 Resalte 2015 Expresión (Ribera del Duero). Fully ripe black-fruit aromas come with hints of olive and damp earth. On the palate, this is full and kicking, with big tannins that don’t tread lightly. Savory berry flavors are true to Ribera del Duero, while this is not overpowering…

BLAUFRÄNKISCH 92 Heidi Schröck 2018 Ried Kulm Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Subtle notes of wild blueberry entice on the nose, with their freshness and slight cinnamon spice. The palate is slender but concentrated, revealing a well of infinite juiciness at its dark-fruited core, ripe but balanced, fresh and pure. The summer of 2018 adds a plummy richness but the finish remains bright and fresh—a wonderfully honest, vivid and elegant wine. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 13.5% Price: $27 91 Markus Altenburger 2018 Vom Kalk Blaufränkisch (Burgenland). Purity and aroma strike from the offset: aromatic blueberry and peppery cherry combine to great effect on the nose. The palate shows a gentle and fine grip, effortless concentration and well-captured fruit. This is a very elegant, juicy and joyous wine. Schatzi Wines. —A.K. abv: 12.5%…

CHARDONNAY 94 Bob Cabral Wines 2016 Anne Rose Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). For full review see page 99. abv: 14.6% Price: $100 94 Cambria 2017 Katherine’s Vineyard Signature Collection Chardonnay (Santa Maria Valley). Elegant aromas of toasted brioche with almond cream and white-peach compote make for a stunning nose on this bottling by Winemaker Jill Russell in one of her first complete vintages for the brand. There is a great sizzle of lime zest acidity to the sip, which gives way to creamier flavors of nectarine and crushed macadamia nut. —M.K. abv: 13.2% Price: $60 94 Flowers 2017 Camp Meeting Ridge Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). This is a sleek, demure and elegantly structured white wine from a wild coastal site, fresh and alive in acidity and sea air. Apple, lemon and stone…

Cucumbers are such a neat trick of nature. They reach peak season in early summer, just when their crisp, cooling character is needed most. It’s the perfect time to explore less common varieties in farmers markets, like tennis ball-sized lemon cucumbers and slender, snakelike Armenian cucumbers. While often relegated to garnish status, cucumbers can be the star of a meal, whether raw or pickled in sandwiches and salads, or sautéed, braised or roasted. They’re also a flexible match for nearly any fish, dairy, fruit or herbs. Regardless of use, the right wine can bring out some of their more subtle, complex flavors. ♦ BITTER Though most of a cucumber’s astringency is in the peel, it also contains a compound called cucurbitacin that lends a slight bitterness throughout. To avoid…

COCKTAIL SAUCE Mix 1 cup chili sauce, ¾ teaspoon lemon zest, 2 tablespoons prepared horseradish, 1 teaspoon fresh-ground black pepper, ¾ teaspoon hot sauce and 1½ teaspoons Creole seasoning, like Tony Chachere’s Original Creole Seasoning. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to 1 week. SHRIMP COCKTAIL Courtesy Richard Ingraham, founder/chef, ChefRLI.com 1½ pounds shell-on jumbo shrimp1 tablespoon sea salt1 cup dry white wine1 tablespoon black peppercorns1 tablespoon coriander seeds2 bay leaves1 small onion, sliced4 fresh tarragon sprigs1 lemon, halved, plus additional wedges for servingCocktail sauce (recipe at left) Peel and devein shrimp, leaving tails attached. Reserve shells. Fill pot with 8 cups water. Add shrimp shells, salt, wine, peppercorns, coriander, bay leaves, onion, tarragon and lemon. Bring to boil over high heat, then reduce to simmer. Cook,…

Inspired by the popularity of all-day rosé, Vicente Romero, general manager/beverage director of Onward in Chicago, found a clever way to double up on the pink stuff: supplement the wine with a small measure of rosé gin. He likes to use Two Brothers Rosé Gin, made locally from a base steeped in Pinot Noir grapes for two weeks. “[The cocktail is] the perfect patio sipper,” says Romero. “Not too sweet, not too boozy.” KILLER QUEEN Vicente Romero, general manager/beverage director, Onward, Chicago 2 ounces rosé wine1 ounce rosé gin¾ ounce pineapple syrup*½ ounce lime juice¼ ounce red bitters, like LuxardoMint sprig, for garnish In cocktail shaker filled with ice, combine all ingredients except garnish. Shake well, then strain into rocks glass over fresh ice. Garnish with mint sprig. *To…

With added electrolytes to replace minerals lost while sweating, sports drinks have long sold themselves as the favorite recovery beverage of athletes. But select brewers now have something better to offer. They’re lacing beers with salt, potassium and nutrient-dense superfoods to create beverages that can be thought of as a reward and a source of replenishment. “We wanted to make a beer for people to enjoy after a marathon, softball game or mowing the grass when it’s 110˚F down here in the summertime,” says Chris Juergen, head brewer at Karbach Brewing Co. in Houston. Last summer, Karbach released Game Changer, a low-alcohol pale ale containing sea salt and turmeric, which purportedly packs anti-inflammatory compounds. There’s no singular approach to making these added-benefit beers, however, which range from stouts to…

While the Northern Rhône is best known for Syrah, roughly 15% of the wines produced in the region are white. The whites of Condrieu and Saint-Joseph, two neighboring appellations with distinct expressions, are often underappreciated. Condrieu is devoted entirely to the production of Viognier. Saint-Joseph, Hermitage and Crozes-Hermitage produce whites from only Marsanne and Roussanne. These wines are distinctly lower in acidity, with a richness and perfume that can border on flamboyant. Northern Rhône whites are a marked contrast to fashionably zingy, linear wines like Riesling or Sauvignon Blanc. These wines are distinctly lower in acidity, with a richness and perfume that can border on flamboyant. They are timeless, if not trendy, wines often overlooked on restaurant menus and store shelves. Until the 1990s, Viognier was rarely planted anywhere beyond…

SANCERRE 93 Roger et Didier Raimbault 2016 Cuvée Côteline (Sancerre). From an old southeast-facing vineyard, this wine is rich and full. With three years in bottle, the wine has matured while still retaining ripe green fruits. It can be drunk now, but can age further and be at its peak from 2021. Serge Doré Selections. Editors’ Choice. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $42 91 Domaine François Millet 2019 Sancerre. This is a rounded wine, with proper herbal flavors as well as ripe gooseberry and citrus. It is textured, mineral and still young. It will likely be at its best from 2021. T. Elenteny Imports. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $32 91 Pierre Cherrier & Fils 2017 Cuvée Grand Picot (Sancerre). Now mature, this wine has a perfumed character, with apricot and spice…

PINOT BIANCO 93 Nals Margreid 2018 Sirmian Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Round and creamy, this gorgeous white opens with aromas of chamomile, white stone fruit and baking spice. The delicious palate doles out succulent yellow apple, ripe pear and honeydew melon before a mineral-driven finish. This shows the incredible potential of Pinot Bianco in Alto Adige. Massanois Imports. —K.O. abv: 14% Price: $37 92 Girlan 2019 Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Aromas of apples and pears carry over to the delicious palate along with creamy white peach and green apple. Bright acidity and a hint of flinty mineral lift the rich flavors. Panebianco. Best Buy. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $11 92 Nals Margreid 2018 Berg Pinot Bianco (Alto Adige). Inviting aromas of ripe apple and a yeasty whiff of bread dough…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 94 Leeuwin Estate 2016 Prelude Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon (Margaret River). This red draws cassis, currant, eucalyptus, dried violet, tobacco and graphite into a satiny texture and fine, elegantly structured tannins. It’s juicy, medium in weight, long at the finish, classic Margaret River and unmistakably Leeuwin. Drink now–2028. Old Bridge Cellars. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 13.5% Price: $29 92 Forest Hill 2017 Highbury Fields Cabernet Sauvignon (Great Southern). This is a cool-climate Cabernet from the far south of Western Australia. The nose is open and expressive, an enticing mix of licorice, currants, baking spices, dried mint and chocolate with mineral undertones and, as it warms in glass, a toffee oak note. Solidly medium bodied, the mouthfeel is silky with a classic combo of power and restraint. Taut, chalky tannins…

PINOT NOIR 95 00 Wines 2017 Richard Hermann Cuvée Pinot Noir (Eola-Amity Hills). Double Zero tags its top wines with the names of the founders’ parents. This dense and delicious wine was produced with single whole berries fermented in a 500 L Tuscan terracotta amphora. Sixteen months in 20% new French oak has added rich streaks of mocha, coffee and sandalwood, along with ripe, chocolaty cherry fruit. As with all the Double Zero Pinots, it’s a perfect mix of elegance, ripeness, texture and length. —P.G. abv: 13.7% Price: $125 95 Patricia Green Cellars 2018 Estate Vineyard Bonshaw Block Pinot Noir (Ribbon Ridge). A small block from the estate that regularly overperforms, thanks to its combination of nearly 30-year-old vines and 100% Pommard (as in yummy) clones. Tart cherry, cola and…

CHARDONNAY 92 CheckMate 2016 Queen Taken Chardonnay (Golden Mile Bench). For full review see page 102. abv: 14.4% Price: $100 91 CheckMate 2016 Capture Chardonnay (Okanagan Valley). Much like the 2015, but less creamy, and with a bit more peppery spice. It’s all Dijon 76 clone, 80% wild yeast fermented in 44% new barrels, and put through complete malolactic. Nonetheless some sharpness remains, and another year or two is recommended to smooth some rough edges. For now, a mix of tree fruits and a finishing buttery note are in play. —P.G. abv: 14.4% Price: $80 91 CheckMate 2015 Fool’s Mate Chardonnay (Okanagan Valley). For full review see page 104. abv: 14.2% Price: $75 91 CheckMate 2015 Little Pawn Chardonnay (Okanagan Valley). This tight, spicy, tasty wine opens into a creamy…

Any brewer worth their salt has lagers in their home fridge, and a stash hidden away at the brewery’s walk-in cooler. Ales might rule the craft-beer space in America these days, but lagers remain many brewer’s true love. Still, craft beer in America was born on the backs of ales, produced using bottom-fermenting yeast, that were aggressively hop forward. Later, flavorings from fruits and food items became more popular. Lagers and pilsners were the beers made using top-fermenting yeast by the “big breweries” like Miller, Budweiser, Heineken and Pabst. Technically perfect, these big-name beers often lack soul and rely on marketing to create a brand identity. From the beaches of Corona to the ice-cold Coors mountains, they undoubtedly do the job in a pinch. Ales might rule the craft-beer space…

Five days before my wedding last September, it felt like nothing was going according to plan. Despite insisting throughout my entire 21-month engagement that I’d never be that bride making critical decisions at the last minute, that’s precisely what happened. Although my then-fiancé and I had spent nearly a year planning our dream wedding in Paris, somehow we’d made it all the way to the week of without finalizing key details. Crucially, we still hadn’t selected the wines to be served at our reception. Now, as an incredibly particular wine lover, I figured choosing the offerings for my wedding would be a task I’d take very seriously. I had lofty, grandiose visions of sampling bottles upon bottles, carefully considering reds and whites, and meticulously pairing them with our menu…