Innholdsfortegnelse for April 2020 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER Susan Kostrzewa EDITOR-IN-CHIEF Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea EDITORIAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Layla Schlack SENIOR ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain DIGITAL ASSOCIATE MANAGING EDITOR Emily Saladino SENIOR DIGITAL EDITORS Dylan Garret, Siobhan Wallace SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUALS PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, MW, Christina Pickard SPIRITS EDITOR Kara Newman BEER…

At The Bamboo Room, a bar hidden within Chicago tiki lounge Three Dots and a Dash, guests are greeted with a snack-sized, two-sip Daiquiri, also known as a Snaiquiri, over shaved pineapple ice. This is a lower-octane alternative to a traditional Daiquiri made with rum. “A bolder Sherry stands up pretty well,” says Kevin Beary, beverage director of the venue. He opts for manzanilla Sherry, a dry, saline style, preferably aged under a blanket of yeast called flor. Note: This recipe makes a single full-sized serving, double what Beary serves guests. SHERRY DAIQUIRI Kevin Beary, beverage director, Three Dots and a Dash and The Bamboo Room, Chicago 2 ounces manzanilla Sherry (Beary uses Bodegas Alonso Velo Flor Manzanilla)1 ounce lime juice½ ounce Martinique sirop de canne (store-bought simple syrup…

Non-alcoholic wine has evolved far past grape juice to be sipped with a pinky out. The growing category now offers complex and full-bodied beverages, some with an intoxicating twist: tetrahydrocannabinol (THC), the principle psychoactive component of cannabis. Aaron Silverstein, the managing director of non-alcoholic wine and beer supplier BevZero, says improved alcohol-removal technology paved the way for these weed-spiked wine offerings. With important vinous elements like aromatic compounds, the only thing missing would be the intoxifying element, which is where cannabis comes in. But how does it get there? Rebel Coast uses technology that encapsulates the cannabinoids in a substance that allows them to be emulsified with water, says CEO and Cofounder Josh Lizotte. “This process has three key benefits: It makes the THC act water soluble, dramatically increases the…

This is a traditional version of the French stew, with one genius addition: fresh croutons. To stay the classic course, use a bottle of red Burgundy to make this, though any dry red will also work. COQ AU VIN Courtesy Jamie Malone, chef/owner, Grand Cafe, Minneapolis 1 5–6 pound chicken, cut into 8 pieces1 bottle red Burgundy, or other dry red wine¼ pound slab bacon, diced8 ounces small white button mushrooms, stems trimmed16 frozen pearl onions, thawed2 carrots, peeled, cut into ¼-inch coinsSalt and pepper4 tablespoons unsalted butter1 large onion, diced1 celery stalk, diced¼ cup brandy1½ tablespoons flour1 bouquet garni (recipe follows)Chicken stock, if needed¼ cup minced flat-leaf parsley2 tablespoons minced chives1 cup toasted sourdough croutons One day prior to cooking, place chicken in large bowl or pot, and…

The German wines that dominate the U.S. market today are a fantastic study of two very distinct vintages, 2017 and 2018. In broad strokes, both vintages are part of a succession of the good to spectacular growing seasons that have accompanied increasingly hotter climates throughout Europe. At the same time, their differences remind us of nature’s footprint on each bottle and the challenges and glories experienced by winegrowers. Their differences remind us of nature’s footprint on each bottle and the challenges experienced by winegrowers. In movie terms, the 2017 German vintage was a thriller—a nail-biting rollercoaster of calamity, suspense and surprise. German winegrowers will remember 2017 as a succession of hair-pulling and erratic weather conditions. An unusually warm spring jumpstarted an early growing season. Young vines were too vulnerable to…

MALBEC 92 Terrazas de Los Andes 2015 Single Vineyard Las Compuertas Malbec (Mendoza). Ripe, chunky black-fruit aromas are swathed in minty oak and vanilla, while accents of black olive and prune are part of the nose. A round, full palate is enlivened by tartaric kick before going quiet, while ripe berry, prune and cassis flavors finish flat and dense. Drink now. Moët Hennessy USA. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $65 91 Infinito 2015 Winemaker’s Selection Malbec (Mendoza). A saturated dark-purple color and heady aromas of raisin and blackberry push this Malbec to the cusp of overripe. Sappy extraction means the palate feel is heavy, while jammy blackberry and prune flavors are a throwback to 15 years ago, when size and ripeness dominated the Malbec scene in Argentina. While this is fleshy…

RED BLENDS 93 Avennia 2017 Gravura (Columbia Valley). Cabernet Sauvignon (47%) and Merlot (42%) make up the heart of this wine, with Cabernet Franc providing its soul. The aromas impress, with notes of bay leaf, thyme, graphite, dark coffee, raspberry and spice. The palate is classically styled and exquisitely balanced, bringing a sense of sophistication and detail, with plentiful cherry and herb accents. There’s lovely sense of complexity. Firm, slightly green tannins back it all up. Just a baby now, it wants some time in the bottle to grow up. Best from 2024 to 2032. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.6% Price: $40 93 Avennia 2017 Justine (Yakima Valley). Grenache (61%) is in the lead on this wine, followed by Mourvèdre (23%) and Syrah. Alluring aromas of raspberry, blueberry, thistle, herb,…

We spend a lot of time discussing wine grape pedigrees, but what about our own genealogy as it relates to wine? I first started to think about this during a journey through Austria’s eastern border regions last year. I’ve always loved Austrian wines, especially precise, minerally Grüner Veltliner and juicy, spicy Blaufränkisch, and I wondered if my genetics made me predisposed to do so. I’d recently joined the growing number of people—more than 26 million and counting—who have spit into a DNA kit and sent it off for analysis. The results arrived a week before my trip. My ethnicity was estimated to be more than 80% Eastern European, which came as no surprise. I’ve always been told that my ancestors immigrated to the U.S. from Austria, Poland and what…

With the equinox upon us, this ever-agreeable white is the grape we’ve all got our eyes on. And wine lovers aren’t the only ones: Artisans of all kinds are making the most of signature notes like butter, bread and green fruits. Flip the page for 10 new ways to try it this season. NEW WAYS TO CHARDONNAY Other products made with, or perfect for, our favorite spring pour. In case you haven’t looked at your calendar—or out your window—recently, spring has officially begun. And you know what that means: So, too, has Chardonnay season. Sure, we enjoy Chard and other white wines all year long, but there’s just something about bright yellow sunshine and a promise of dining outside in the days to come that makes a glass of…

Famous for opera performances that are held in the city’s 1st century Roman Arena and as the home of the world’s most famous fictional lovers, Romeo and Juliet, the Verona of today is also a must-visit destination for fine wine. Located in northern Italy’s Veneto region, the city boasts a lively restaurant and wine bar scene, and Vinitaly, the country’s most important annual wine fair. Explore around town and use it as a base to tour some of boot’s most celebrated wine country just a short drive away. Fine Dining and Wining No visit to Verona would be complete without a meal at the city’s wine-centric, seminal eatery Antica Bottega del Vino. Situated in the heart of the city and with roots that date to the 16th century, it’s cool…

Born in Kosovo but raised in London, Rita Ora’s eclectic entertainment career began with open-mic sessions at her father’s pub. Today, the pop icon is widely known for songs like “R.I.P.” and “How We Do (Party),” as well as for collaborations with Liam Payne, Charli XCX and other hit artists. In between, however, she’s done everything from hosting television shows and tackling big-screen acting roles, to working with fashion brands like Adidas and coaching singers on The X Factor UK and BBC’s The Voice. In 2019, she added yet another role to her dynamic resume: chief creative partner and shareholder of Próspero Spirits. But Ora says she is “more than just a spokesperson” for the brand, which is made by Stella Anguiano, one of the first female Tequila distillers,…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Editor-in-Chief Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington; and Beer Editor John Holl in New Jersey. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear…

RED WINES LISBOA 94 Quinta do Monte d’Oiro 2015 Reserva (Lisboa). This classic northern Rhône blend has great structure and strong hints both of current richness and a fine future maturity. The wine is beautifully concentrated, bringing in spice from wood aging and a juicy black-fruit character. The wine is likely to be ready to drink from 2022. Alt Wines. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 14% Price: $60 93 Companhia das Quintas 2016 Quinta de Pancas Reserva (Lisboa). This showpiece estate in the heart of the Lisboa region has produced a serious, dense wine that has rich tannins, black fruits and potential. The wine, a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Touriga Nacional and Syrah is both firm and ripe, dense and fruity. Drink this fine wine from 2021. Sarmento’s Imports. Editors’ Choice.…

MERLOT 95 La Jota Vineyard 2016 Merlot (Howell Mountain). This tremendously impressive red wine is blended with small amounts of Petit Verdot and Tannat and given 20 months in French oak, a good majority of it new. Reductive at first, it expands to show root beer, cedar and dried herb in a classically structured and hugely concentrated frame of big tannin and weight. Enjoy 2026–2031. Cellar Selection. —V.B. abv: 14.9% Price: $85 94 Mt. Brave 2016 Merlot (Mount Veeder). This is a brawny, herbal and structured wine from the great appellation, as wild and challenging as its provenance. Cedar, dried herb and clove surround dense black currant, licorice and brambly blackberry, with sinewy tannin and toasted oak in abundance. This will do well in the cellar; best 2026–2031. Cellar Selection.…

The category of anise spirits is broad reaching. It encompasses a number of spirits types that deserve attention, but don’t always receive it. For starters, sambuca and anisette are two spirits that seem interchangeable, yet are not. Since Italian producer Meletti makes both, we asked producer Matteo Meletti to briefly outline the differences, which basically boils down to production and regulation. “When a company produces sambuca, it has to follow some strict rules, while anisette is more open recipe.”—Matteo Meletti Sambuca is regulated by the European Union, while anisette is not. “So when a company produces sambuca, it has to follow some strict rules, while Anisette is more open recipe,” says Meletti. This may have to do with the fact that anisette is a much older product, dating back to…

Are your friends impressed when you recite all the varieties allowed in a bottle of Bordeaux? Then it’s time to up your game and get to know at least a handful of the 500-plus native grapes grown in Georgia. One of the world’s oldest wine-producing countries, it’s blessed with a wide array of indigenous varieties and a tradition of small-batch, handcrafted wines fermented and aged in clay qvevri. Ahead, 13 of the most common varieties to get you started. REDS Aladasturi is notable for its pale ruby color, delicate tannins, soft body and low alcohol levels. Aleksandrouli can be used alone or blended and typically creates high-acid wine with flavors of black cherry and raspberry. Chkhaveri is vinified into a pale red wine with subtle fruit flavors and strong…

Beloved on pizzas across the U.S., pepperoni is an Italian-American invention. The peppery, cured, air-dried sausage, i.e. salami, is softer and finer-grained than the spicy salame of Italy (where ordering peperoni will get you bell peppers on your pizza). Americans eat more than 250 million pounds of it per year, most of which is probably on pizza, but it’s delicious anywhere you might use bacon or salami. Try adding it to a grilled cheese or piled onto a “PLT” sandwich, layered in lasagna or mac and cheese, diced into salads or served on charcuterie and cheese plates. Its powerful flavors go well with many wines. SPICY Made with mild red chile powder, pepperoni’s spiciness is more flavor than heat. Sangiovese has high acidity that can refresh the palate from…

Montepulciano is one of the most planted grapes in Italy, yet a surprising amount of confusion surrounds the variety. Its name alone is disorienting. While it bears the name of a Tuscan town, it’s not at all tied to wines made there. Instead, Montepulciano’s home is on the eastern side of the Apennines. It takes root in Marche, Molise and northern Puglia, but it’s most ubiquitous in Abruzzo. Vineyard location is key, as Montepulciano needs a long, temperate growing season. In Abruzzo, the sweet spot is in the foothills of the Apennines, which benefits from brisk air rolling down the mountains and warm breezes coming off the Adriatic Sea. But Montepulciano is grown in all four of the region’s provinces to different results. Most regional production happens in the southern…

GRAN SELEZIONE 97 Castello di Ama 2016 Vigneto La Casuccia Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). Mature black-skinned berry, rose, tilled soil and a balsamic whiff of eucalyptus shape the nose. The bright, elegant palate has energy, tension and depth, delivering ripe wild cherry, red plum, licorice and crushed botanical herb. Taut, fine-grained tannins lend polished support while fresh acidity keeps it balanced. A gorgeous wine. Drink through 2031. The Sorting Table. Cellar Selection. —K.O. abv: 13.5% Price: $250 96 Castello di Ama 2016 San Lorenzo Gran Selezione (Chianti Classico). A blend of 80% Sangiovese, 13% Merlot and 7% Malvasia Nera, this opens with aromas of black- and red-skinned berry, pipe tobacco, tilled earth and a whiff of new leather. Elegant and taut, the palate shows tension, verve and finesse, delivering juicy…

MALAGOUSIA 90 Giannikos 2018 Windmill Malagousia (Peloponnese). This wine has spritely grapefruit, lemon and pear tones but plenty of complexity and structure, too. Layers of flavor and acidity unfold on the palate, making it a wine for contemplation and savoring. It finishes with a touch of apricot. Terroir Wine Group. —S.K. abv: 13% Price: $20 90 Mylonas 2018 Malagousia (Attica). This wine’s subtle nose offers a whiff of rose and peach, with floral and pear flavors offering a balanced and refined palate. It is a crowd pleasing pour with a soft touch. Diamond Importers Inc. —S.K. abv: 12% Price: $NA 88 Avantis 2018 Estate Malagousia (Evia). This wine offers a burst of pear and rose aromas, with rich tropical fruit flavors on the palate and a chalky finish. Slightly simplistic…

PINOT GRIS 92 Dion 2018 Pinot Gris (Chehalem Mountains). It’s a shame there isn’t more of this aromatic and thoroughly captivating, estate-grown white wine. Bold Honeycrisp apple and pear fruit flavors carry a whiff of marshmallow, and fermentation in all-stainless tanks means that lovely fruit remains unshackled by any barrel influences. Drink through 2021. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $19 92 Foris 2018 Pinot Gris (Rogue Valley). There isn’t another estate-based winery in Oregon that delivers such excellent wines at these prices. This textural, mineral-drenched wine hints at honeysuckle, lemongrass and fresh spring herbs. The fruit centers on white peach and peppery daikon radish. The balance, harmony, texture and length are impressive. Best Buy. —P.G. abv: 14% Price: $14 92 King Estate 2018 Domaine Estate Grown Made with Biodynamic…

Wild ales have been around since the beginning of beer. When sweetened water was exposed to natural yeast in the air, fermentation occurred, and the resulting liquid was found to have a pleasing effect on the drinker. Over the centuries since, recipes have been developed, yeast strains have been identified and harvested, and beer has emerged as the beverage we know and love today. If a brewer chooses to reuse barrels for aging these beers, a distinct house culture develops. The majority of the beer brewed around the world is done in sterile locations, where brewers know the kind of yeast they add to their sweet brewing liquid, known as wort, to achieve the desired flavor outcome. As the craft beer industry has evolved over the last few decades, a…