Innholdsfortegnelse for October 2016 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

BEST OF THE RESTOS Wine Enthusiast celebrated our 100 Best Wine Restaurants 2016 issue at New York’s Marta restaurant. Guests mingled with chefs, owners and sommeliers from winning restaurants while drinking wine and beer from event sponsor Opici Wines. Nils Bernstein, WE contributing food editor, led a panel on wine and restaurant trends with Momofuku Group Beverage Director Jordan Salcito, Marta Wine Director Jack Mason, MS, and Kinship and Metier Chef-Owner Eric Ziebold (photo at right). EVERYTHING’S COMING UP ROSÉ Guests at PINKNIC, the first-ever rosé-themed picnic and music festival, donned pink and white while sitting on pink blankets and sipping rosé from producers such as Château d’Esclans and Moët & Chandon. More than 16,000 attended the two-day event on Governor’s Island in New York City.…

Some of the world’s finest wines are sweet. Often crafted from individually harvested clusters that yield the ripest grapes, these wines are beautiful, luscious, rich and memorable. Take one sip, and you’re hooked. Except that we don’t often take that sip. We drink dry wine because it goes with food or it serves as an apéritif. When it comes to sweet wine, we don’t know how, where or when to drink it, or how it should be paired. We asked four experts to debunk the old mythology surrounding French sweet wines and recommend pairings that work with everyday food. —Roger Voss Pair it Alsace-born Master Sommelier Michaël Engelmann of The Modern in New York City suggests seared scallops in a Thai coconut-curry sauce, paired with a 10-year-old Vendange Tardive. For…

“nce you’ve picked up stone fruit and tropical notes in a fine Ascolano, you’ll be hooked,” says Todd Knoll of Sonoma’s Jordan Winery. An exotic new wine? Actually, it’s olive oil. Ascolano is one of more than 75 olive varieties planted in California since the late 18th century. Jordan’s 2015 vintage, a blend of Frantoio, Leccino and Arbequina olives, shows notes of grapefruit, white flowers and buttery nuts in addition to the classic olive oil hallmarks of artichoke and cut grass. According to the California Olive Oil Council, there are almost 40,000 acres in the state devoted to olive oil and more than 400 producers. Many of these producers are also winemakers that find the Mediterranean-type climate ideal for olives, and the oils have placed among the best in international…

Dating to the colonial era, switchel might be the quintessential American drink. So what is it? It’s a combination of apple cider vinegar, ginger, water and a sweetener—commonly molasses, maple syrup or honey. “Sugarcane molasses was probably the first switchel sweetener when the drink originated in the Caribbean,” says Emily Han, author of Wild Drinks & Cocktails: Handcrafted Squashes, Shrubs, Switchels, Tonics, and Infusions to Mix at Home (Fair Winds Press, 2015). “As the drink caught on in New England, folks often used maple syrup, which was their local sweetener. I also really like sweetening switchels with honey, because the flavor tends to be brighter, less overpowering.” Also called “Haymaker’s Punch,” switchel was popular among 19th-century farm workers. “Switchels are often referred to as the original sports drink…raw vinegar, molasses…

BlaineAshley,35 Founder,New YorkChampagne Week •New York City Bubbly queen “People call me ‘Champagne Blaine.’ Enough said,” says the Hawaii-born Ashley, an energetic promoter of sparkling winewhose New YorkChampagne Week will toast its fourth anniversary in November. While alwayswine-industry focused, this year’s events will also cater to consumers, with an emphasis on unstuffy events and Champagne tasting classes like “Let’s Get Fizz-acle” and “Back that Glass Up.” The intent is to make bubbly approachable, accessible and, most of all, fun. Azrhiel Frost, 31 Bartender, The Betty Chicago Combining intuition and imbibing Frost’s impressive drink-making skills were honed at CH Distillery, where she developed a cocktail campaign that focused on feelings. “I would hear an emotion and associate a dealer’s choice cocktail with it,” says Frost. “It was a very fluid concept…

2001 An outstanding vintage that produced classic wines that are bold, structured and well balanced. Initially closed, they’re drinking beautifully now. Drink or hold. 2002 A terrible vintage, marred by torrential rain at harvest. Drink now. 2003 One of the hottest, driest vintages ever recorded in Italy. Even in Barbaresco, many wines show cooked fruit and high alcohol levels. Drink now. 2004 A fantastic vintage. Wines boast rich black-cherry flavors, fine tannins and bright acidity that lend balance and elegance. Drink or hold. 2005 Rain during the harvest made for a difficult vintage. The best have bright fruit and silky tannins. Drink now. 2006 A classic vintage with great aging potential. These show bright red fruit, depth and gripping tannins along with ample acidity. Drink through 2026. 2007 An exceedingly…

WHITE WINES 87 Vinkara 2013 Reserve Narince ( Ankara ). A soft bouquet of Asian pear primes the palate for flavors of pear, quince, grapefruit and freesia. This refreshing wine has a touch of lemon on the soft , lingering finish. The Winebow Group . — M.D. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 25 86 Turasan 2014 Selda White ( Cappadocia). Light-gold in color, this blend of three indigenous grapes and a small amount of Chardonnay has a gentle aroma of citrus fruits and white flowers. On the palate there is also a nice interplay of citrus and flowers, with flavors of lemon, lime and orange blossom. The finish is marked with a note of salinity. Vinorai, LLC . — M.D. abv: 13% Price: $ 15 85 Turasan 2015 Emir ( Cappadocia).…

CHARDONNAY 94 Fullerton 2014 Cooper Mountain Chardonnay ( Willamette Valley). For full review see page 120. Editors’ Choice . abv: 13.5% Price: $ 49 93 Domaine Divio 2014 Chardonnay ( Willamette Valley ). Divio, notes winemaker Bruno Corneaux, is the ancient Roman name for Dijon, hence, a sly reference to the clones in this outstanding Chardonnay. It’s lush and flavorful, with a juicy mix of pear, peach and papaya fruit. Aged 15 months in 50% new French oak, the fruit sets up against a palate-popping wash of toasted hazelnuts, filling out the extended finish. An all-around splendid bottle. Editors’ Choice . — P.G. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 50 93 Winderlea 2014 Chardonnay ( Willamette Valley ). Once again Winderlea’s outstanding Chardonnay is a blend of grapes sourced from Carabella, Hyland…

CABERNET FRANC 88 Veramar 2014 Cabernet Franc ( Virginia ). Tilled earth, geranium and stewed berries make for an earthy nose. The palate brings more fresh-fruit flavors, with crunchy red currant and cranberry streaked by granite. Overall, there’s good tension and feel in this medium-bodied Cabernet Franc. — A.P. abv: 13.4% Price: $ 28 88 Veritas 2007 Doug & Mary Wolf Special Edition Reserve Cabernet Franc ( Monticello ). This special edition release is perfect for those drinkers who enjoy the herbal and savory side of aged Cab Franc. Dried tobacco, jalapeño and red currant reduction start on the nose and carry to the medium-bodied palate. Streaks of graphite Offer a bit of life to a wine that should be enjoyed soon. With its sandy tannins and still lively acid,…

BAROLO 97 Cavallotto 2010 Vignolo Riserva ( Barolo ). Aft er a few minutes in the glass, this stunning wine opens up to reveal classic Nebbiolo aromas of leather, tilled soil, underbrush, fragrant blue flower and ripe berry. The juicy concentrated palate dishes out layers of succulent black cherry, crushed raspberry, anise and pipe tobacco framed in firm, velvety tannins. Drink 2022–2035. Oliver McCrum Wines . Cellar Selection . — K.O. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 150 95 Bel Colle 2012 Simposio ( Barolo ). For full review see page 119. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 60 95 Mascarello Giuseppe e Figlio 2011 Monprivato ( Barolo ). Leather, cured meat, scorched earth, ripe berry and balsamic aromas lead the nose. The smooth, structured palate delivers layers of fleshy black cherry, white pepper…

WHITE WINES 90 Bulgariana 2015 Sauvignon Blanc ( Thracian Valley ). For full review see page 128. Best Buy . abv: 13% Price: $ 13 90 Bulgariana 2015 Unoaked Chardonnay ( Thracian Valley). For full review see page 128. Best Buy . abv: 13% Price: $ 12 90 Chateau Burgozone 2015 Chardonnay ( Danube River Plains ). This Bulgarian Chardonnay has aromas of guava, custard apple and lemon pith. In the mouth there, are tropical fruit flavors like banana and mango with a crisp, clean finish. The House Of Burgundy . — J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 17 90 K Cellars 2015 Chardonnay ( Thracian Valley). For full review see page 128. Best Buy . abv: 13% Price: $ 12 87 Ivo Varbanov 2013 Clare de Lune Chardonnay ( Thracian…

October is one of those funny months, when you can still remember what summer was like but suggestions of what’s to come in the days ahead keep you grounded in fall reality. The leaves start to change in the Northeast, and people try to enjoy the remaining warm days before long-sleeved shirts and sweaters come out of hibernation. It’s the perfect time to enjoy a golden ale. Golden ales (occasionally labeled blonde ales, and sometimes classified as Belgian-style pale ales depending on various industry style guidelines) are an interesting category, with a bit of variation between international and domestic selections. They are all typically crisp and dry, with a low to medium noble-hop presence, although American offerings generally trend toward the medium side of the spectrum more than traditional Belgian…

’Tis the season for all things spooky, and there’s no shortage of wineries that use bottles to tell dark, haunted tales about their estates. Spirits are in the spirit, too, as these two bottles show. Espolòn Tequila created a special screen-printed bottle with a Day of the Dead funeral scene that evokes Mexican culture. Evil Spirits, inspired by the iconic Ouija board, began as a promotion for Saint Bernadine Mission Communications, a graphic design firm in Vancouver, Canada. When the vodka within, specially commissioned for the agency, received rave reviews, the principals followed with a bona-fide vodka line scheduled to launch later this year. Designers: Steven Noble for Espolòn and Jenn Hicks for Evil Spirits…

91 Donnafugata 2015 Sur Sur; $19 Aromas of spring flower, citrus, herb and white stone fruit. A round, juicy palate delivers ripe white peach, juicy grapefruit, pineapple and mineral. Vibrant and savory. Editors’ Choice. 90 Cusumano 2015 Shamaris; $20 Apple, yellow flower and sea breeze aromas lead into a bright, elegant palate with lemon, lime and walnut alongside vibrant acidity. Drink now or hold for three or more years. 88 Tasca d’Almerita 2015 Cavallo delle Fate; $20 Opens with delicate scents of pear and pressed yellow flower. The tangy palate shows lemon zest, nectarine and a hint of Mediterranean herb backed by a saline note. 89 Tenuta Rapitalà 2015 Grillo; $14 Subdued aromas of spring wild flower, hay and orchard fruit. The vibrant palate offers lemon zest, sage, dried herb…

Coffee, meet cocktail. This creamy, comforting sipper—essentially a spiced, spiked chocolate milk for grown-ups— is found at New York City’s Kobrick Coffee Co., the first brick and mortar venture from the 96-year-old coffee roaster. While the coffee and cocktail cultures have been converging for some time, Kobrick is like a theme park at the intersection of booze and beans. For the Three Hour Kyoto Negroni, single origin Kenyan coffee, along with gin, Campari and sweet vermouth, are all brewed through a Yama Cold Brew Drip Tower—a dramatic performance, which, as the name suggests, takes about three hours to complete—while a Chemex holds chili pepperinfused vodka that’s dripped through a coffee filter for an incendiary Bloody Mary. The Loca Mocha, meanwhile, showcases cold-brew coffee, a natural pairing for a chilled cocktail.…

You’ve probably heard that Barbaresco is one of Italy’s top wines. Yet, for many years, it’s also been one of its most underappreciated gems. Many wine drinkers passed on it in favor of Barolo, its larger, more renowned neighbor. But now Barbaresco is stepping up its game, thanks, in part, to a new generation of winemakers who are embracing more natural farming methods, leading to even higher quality. The region’s unique microclimate encourages freshness and balance in its Nebbiolo grapes, even in the hottest vintages. The recent fascination with Nebbiolo and Piedmont has further shined a light on the denomination, as today’s wine lovers discover that Barbaresco is a world-class wine. “Nebbiolo is a hot variety right now, and we’ve benefitted from all the attention,” says Aldo Vacca, managing director…

The wine regions of eastern Asia and the Middle East are among the oldest in the world. Artifacts and artwork related to winemaking and wine culture dating back thousands of years have been found across the entire region, including modern-day Israel, Turkey and Georgia. While these three nations share little in common in terms of grape varieties grown, they each make a wide array of intriguing wines that are now available in many markets across the United States. Although winemaking in Israel extends back to biblical times, a major resurgence began in the 1980s, and today hundreds of wineries are vinifying international varieties, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc. Among the five wine regions in the country, rolling hillsides and the cooling influence of the Mediterranean Sea…

SHIRAZ 97 Torbreck 2012 RunRig Shiraz-Viognier ( Barossa). RunRig is always complex, and the 2012 doesn’t disappoint in that regard, mixing bacony-meaty notes with hints of black olives and ripe plums. The tannins are supremely supple, but the acids are crisp, resulting in a long, mouthwatering finish. Drink now–2030. Wine Creek . — J.C. abv: 15.5% Price: $ 225 95 Jasper Hill 2013 Georgia’s Paddock Shiraz ( Heathcote ). For full review see page 119. Cellar Selection . abv: 14.5% Price: $ 85 95 Torbreck 2012 Descendant Shiraz-Viognier ( Barossa Valley). Bacon and tapenade elements merge easily on the nose, followed by a wine that’s full bodied and creamy textured on the palate. This is dark and meaty in profile, yet not heavy or cooked, with a long, harmonious finish.…

CHARDONNAY 96 Rochioli 2014 South River Chardonnay ( Russian River Valley). Citrus-kissed saltiness lies at the core of this incredibly delicious, deliriously crafted wine, from the great grape grower in the heart of the Russian River Valley. Beautifully crisp, it lingers in stony minerality and a freshness of apricot, memorable from first sip to last. Editors’ Choice . — V.B. abv: 14.5% Price: $ 68 96 Rochioli 2014 Sweetwater Chardonnay ( Russian River Valley). A waft of smoky char and toasty oak provide a rich foundation and compelling entry into this one-acre vineyard-designate from the historic grower, before unleashing, slowly, a torrent of melon and fresh-cut apple with a length of intriguing nutmeg and cardamom. Medium-bodied and lush, it will remain on your palate memory a long time. — V.B.…

DOURO 94 Quinta Seara d’Ordens 2012 Talentus Grande Escolha ( Douro ). This is a hugely dense wine, still firm with its dusty tannins and solid with concentrated black fruits. Despite all this power, the wine has style and a sense of elegance that will stand it in good stead as it matures. It is certainly not yet ready and should be aged until 2019. Sarmento’s Imports & Exports Inc . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 14% Price: $ 35 93 Casca Wines 2011 Monte Cascas Grande Reserva ( Douro ). Old vines in a field blend give a rich structured wine that has dark tannins and powerful black fruits. It is firm, very concentrated with dense fruit as much as dense tannins. This wine could still age another…

MOSEL RIESLING 94 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2014 Scharzhofberger Riesling Auslese #19 Grosse Lage ( Mosel). Hints of burnt sugar and spice accentuate honeyed peach, tangerine and melon in this deeply fruity auslese. It’s lip-smacking sweet and ethereal in texture, filling the palate with crystalline shards of citrus, salt and mineral. Delicious and complex already, but sure to improve further through at least 2030. American BD Company . Cellar Selection . — A.I. abv: 8% Price: $ 70 93 Dr. Pauly Bergweiler 2015 Bernkasteler Badstube Riesling Beerenauslese ( Mosel). Notes of anise and white blossoms perfume this gorgeously sheer Riesling. It’s intensely sweet, bursting with honey, grapefruit and tangerine flavors, yet balanced neatly by high-toned acidity and a uniquely herbal flair. Winesellers, Ltd . — A.I. abv: 10.5% Price: $ 110…

Although vodka is generally prized for its pristine neutrality, it’s a mistake to assume that vodka tastes like nothing, or that all vodkas taste alike. Some of those differences come from how vodka is made (Pot or column still? Filtered or unfiltered?), but the most noticeable variations oft en come from the raw material from which the spirit is distilled. This month, rye-based vodkas are the focus. Since this grain also is the key component in rye whiskey, it can be helpful to think of rye vodka as a distant cousin to rye whiskey—albeit one stripped of the tasty caramel and vanilla imparted by barrel aging. Where rye whiskies are known for bold spice, rye vodkas are far more subtle, whispering hints of black pepper or baking spice. Rye-based spirits…

“should import this! How hard can it be?” Many wine lovers traveling in a distant land sip a local wine and consider this thought. So, when Blue Danube Wine, an importer of Eastern European wines, invited me to tag along for two weeks to visit producers and scout wines along the Dalmatian coast in Croatia, I didn’t hesitate to say yes. Yes, to leisurely days tasting wine in luxurious coastal settings. Yes, to living the glamorous life of a wine importer. I quickly learned, however, that wine importers must be well prepared for the rigors of the road and palate. The schedule is packed, the pace unrelenting. We tasted more than 60 wines and barrel samples before lunch. Long days of tasting were followed by evenings evaluating sample bottles and…

WHO 40 tastemakers under 40 years old WHERE New York City and San Francisco WHAT We talk to these progressive young drinks-industry professionals, including sommeliers, bartenders and brewmasters, about how they’re changing the way we drink. Watch the exclusive video on winemag.com/40under402016 and turn to page 47 for our feature. Victoria James, Sam Stopplemoor, Blaine Ashley, Brahm Callahan, Matt Hedges, Jill Zimorski and June Rodil gather (and climb) for a shot by Paul Aresu. “People are trying to be crazy and out-there with wine drinking.” —Jessica Altieri From left, WESenior Art Director Julia Lea, Azrhiel Frost, WE Senior Digital Editor Jameson Fink, Emily Sauter, WE Photo Director Megan Baggott Follow us @WineEnthusiast…

Since its New York City location opened in February, Indian Accent has become one of the most serious and innovative Indian restaurants in the country, with a wine list to match. (Its New Delhi location was voted India’s best restaurant by “The World’s 50 Best” this year.) But it’s not without whimsy: Chef Manish Mehrotra envisioned this tuna-enhanced take on the Indian street snack bhel— traditionally a mix of puffed rice, vegetables and potatoes—while watching the Discovery Channel’s Deadliest Catch with his daughter. She’s obsessed with Kurkure, an Indian take on crunchy Cheetos that’s flavored with Indian spices instead of cheese, which Mehrotra used in place of puffed rice. The result is an exotic, fall-friendly tuna tartare whose range of tastes and textures lends itself to a wealth of wines,…

RKATSITELI 89 Orgo 2014 Rkatsiteli ( Kakheti ). Mediumgold to the eye, this wine has aromas of white peach and bitter almond. There is an almost beer-like flavor profile, including peach, apple, hops and floral notes. Ever-present but not overpowering tannins and a bright, lingering finish make for an appealing and interesting wine. Georgian House of Greater Washington, LLC . — M.D. abv: 12.5% Price: $ 21 89 Our Wine 2013 Vineyard Tsarapi Rkatsiteli ( Kakheti ). Medium-apricot in the glass, this wine Offers aromas of apricot, flint and clove. At first sip, a smoky flavor fills the palate, backed by summer fruit such as peach and nectarine with notes of smoked meats and orange blossom. Smooth tannins make their way around the mouth, culminating in a finish that is…

MALBEC 94 Lamadrid 2011 Matilde Single Vineyard Malbec ( Agrelo ). For full review see page 120. Editors’ Choice . abv: 14.9% Price: $ 80 93 Bodega Renacer 2012 R Malbec ( Mendoza). This Malbec is exceedingly ripe from start to finish. Aromas of blackberry, raisin, char and loamy earth announce a 16% heavyweight that holds onto its elegance. Flush, plump and elastic on the palate, this tastes of fig, blackberry, cassis and mocha. Chocolate and woodspice flavors drive a lush, dense finish that’s a touch hot. Drink through 2020. MundoVino–The Winebow Group . — M.S. abv: 16% Price: $ 65 93 Finca la Celia 2012 Heritage Single Vineyard Malbec ( Uco Valley). Deep, ripe, layered berry aromas come with notes of pastry and licorice. This feels tight and pure,…

VIOGNIER 88 Brennan 2015 Cellar Select Viognier ( Texas). A bit of skin contact gives this Viognier some extra character and texture. Quite aromatic on the nose, peach and pineapple juice aromas are shot through with pink peppercorns and grapefruit spray. The rich palate shows good acidic verve, however it feels slightly hot. Notes of jasmine show up on the midpalate leading to a slight astringent bitterness. In the end, fruit tones prevail and linger on a moderate finish. — A.P. abv: 15.3% Price: $ 25 87 Spicewood 2014 Viognier ( Texas High Plains). Canned peach, banana and lilting whiteflower aromas show some good concentration on the nose. The palate is playful and textured, with a pop of tropical fruit on the entry and more florals on the midpalate. A…

GRAND CRUS 96 Louis Latour 2014 Le Montrachet . This beautiful, rich wine has yellow fruits and is concentrated, tightly textured and conveys a ripe character. The touches of wood are just right, adding spice to the opulent fruitiness. A mineral texture gives some tightness to the aftertaste. Drink from 2024. Louis Latour Inc . Cellar Selection . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 630 95 Louis Latour 2014 Bâtard-Montrachet . This wine is ripe and structured, dense with both acidity and minerality. It is rich with yellow and tropical fruits but always cut with lively acidity, making it opulent while fresh. Drink from 2022. Louis Latour Inc . — R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 430 95 Louis Latour 2014 Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet . This is an opulent wine from one of…

DRY FURMINT 91 Gróf Degenfeld 2014 Zomborka Furmint ( Tokaj ). This Furmint from Tokaj has enticing aromas of lemon, grapefruit peel and vanilla bean. There are lively flavors of lemon curd, dried sage and caramelized apricot in the palate with balanced minerality in the finish. Balzac Communications . — J.J. abv: NA Price: $ 24 90 Barta 2012 Öreg Kiraly Dulo Mad Furmint ( Tokaj ). Aromas of jasmine and honeysuckle entice your nose and flavors of lemon lime and apple cider excite your palate. This dry Hungarian Furmint has both a strong minerality and a crisp finish. Balzac Communications . — J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $ 38 90 Béres 2014 Furmint ( Tokaj ). Nuances of white flowers lead you in to aromas of pear and pineapple and…