Innholdsfortegnelse for Best of Year 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

SPARKLING HISTORY As you raise a glass of bubbly to toast the new year (or an average Tuesday), take a moment to drink in the centuries of culture and innovation in your glass. IN THE BEGINNING Blanquette de Limoux, from Languedoc, shows up in writings from as early as 1531 by the monks of Saint-Hilaire. “Mauzac is the main grape of Blanquette de Limoux,” says Jason Wilson, a drinks writer and historian whose books include Godforsaken Grapes. “[It] has these really unique apple-peel aromas and flavors.” Blanquette de Limoux was first made using the ancestral method, or méthode ancestrale, where fermentation is stopped early, and wine undergoes a secondary fermentation in bottle. The technique might have been a happy accident, with winter weather halting fermentation, and then yeast waking up…

Vermouth makers would like to remind you that their product is more than just a cocktail ingredient. It’s also wine, albeit fortified with a spirit and aromatized with herbs, spices and bittering agents. To that end, grape varieties have taken center stage lately. In some cases, vermouths are made by or in collaboration with local winemakers. Alysian Wines, in Healdsburg, California, for example, makes a “Bittersweet” bianco vermouth that uses its Russian River Valley Chardonnay as a base. Similarly, Washington State craft distillery BroVo makes a handful of varietal vermouths, distinguished by grapes sourced from local wineries: Sauvignon Blanc for dry vermouth; Pinot Gris for its version of an off-dry blanc; Pinot Noir for rosé; and Merlot for its “Jammy” sweet vermouth. Tightening the wine-vermouth connection has also been…

One of the older American cocktails, a Julep is defined by the presence of crushed ice and a tall glass. That vagueness may be why variations keep trending around the world. “The Cynar Julep is the drink in Buenos Aires,” says Jess Lambert, who created this drink for Boleo in Chicago, a South America-inspired rooftop bar. (She’s no longer there.) “You can find it everywhere.” Riffing on the Argentinian style, she added fresh grapefruit juice “to brighten up those dark notes in the Cynar,” a not-too-strong Italian amaro made with artichoke. A tiny touch of raspberry syrup balances out the amaro’s herbal notes. The end result: a low-proof variation on the classic Mint Julep. CYNAR JULEP Jess Lambert, for Boleo, Chicago 1½ ounces Cynar1 ounce grapefruit juice¼ ounce raspberry…

Gouda is a misunderstood cheese. Since the name isn’t protected, it’s used globally for a range of generic, mass-produced versions. But real Gouda (pronounced “HOW-da”) is one of the world’s great cheeses. Look for “Gouda Holland” or “Noord-Hollandse Gouda” designations for authentic Dutch cheese. There are six age categories that range from jonge kaas (young) to overjarig (very old). Try a few, with a different wine for each stage of development. NUTTY Younger Goudas are nutty and buttery, like macadamia or pine nuts. The Dutch drink beer alongside them, but try Sercial Madeira. Like the cheese, it has nutty notes and faint sweetness, with a palate-cleansing acidity to prep for the next bite. PIQUANT As Gouda ages, it develops a throat-tickling sharpness that can be unpleasant when paired with wines…

In 2000, the editors of Wine Enthusiast conceived an annual awards program to celebrate luminaries who have significantly contributed to the success of the beverage industry. The Wine Star Awards aim to highlight progressive thinkers in the fields of wine, beer and spirits. In award categories that cover the evolving scope of the industry, these winners represent the best of today’s beverage culture. They are united in a passion for change and exhibit business acumen and savvy for anticipating what’s next in the world of wine and beyond. From winemakers to wineries, sommeliers to CEOs, philanthropists, innovators and social visionaries, these trendsetters are the drivers for what’s in your glass. Turn the page and get to know the bright stars of 2019 whose work is changing the drinking universe for…

The declaration of the 2017 Port vintage was an oddity. Not just because Port declarations—when producers agree together to acknowledge the excellence of a special year—are rare in themselves, but because it followed straight after the second declaration of the decade in 2016. As uncommon as it is, the producers were right. These two years are worthy successors to the magnificent 2011 vintage, the last year a vintage declaration was made. The merits of the two years will be debated by vintage-Port lovers over the many decades that these wines continue to mature and are drunk. But for now, let’s consider the 2017 vintage. The 2017 Ports have structure, depth and the right amount of concentration that will allow them to age for decades. Last July, I tasted nearly 70…

CONDRIEU 94 E. Guigal 2017 La Doriane (Condrieu). Classic in style, this exuberant, perfumed Viognier fills the air with aromas of orange blossom, peach and honey. While weighty and textured, it’s lifted by a vein of tangerine acidity and lingering notes of bitter nut skins and vanilla. This lovely wine should drink well through 2027. Vintus LLC. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 14.5% Price: $140 94 Jean-Luc Colombo 2017 Amour de Dieu (Condrieu). Aromas of toast, vanilla, preserved peach and caramel are heady here, lending flair to orange cream and honey on the palate. It’s rich and unctuous, silky in texture, but fringed by pleasing bitters. A beauty already, it should evolve positively through 2027. Taub Family Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 13.5% Price: $90 92 Tardieu-Laurent 2017 Condrieu. This perfumed…

RED BLENDS 93 Lagar de Bezana 2014 Aluvion Ensamblaje (Cachapoal Valley). For full review see page 169. abv: 14% Price: $29 92 Siegel 2014 Ketran Cordón de Fuego (Colchagua Valley). Earthy, spicy aromas of green herbs, eucalyptus and berry fruits reflect the blend, which is Syrah, Petit Verdot, Carmenère and Cab Franc. In the mouth, this is rocky on the surface but deeply layered. Dark, toasty flavors of mint and herbal black fruits finish tannic and drying. Kysela Père et Fils. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $75 92 Valdivieso 2015 Caballo Loco Grand Cru Apalta (Santa Cruz). Olive aromas are matched by earth, herb, tomato and plum notes that come mostly from the Carmenère in this blend with Cabernet Sauvignon. A tightly structured palate is full and sinewy, while this tastes…

CABERNET SAUVIGNON 92 Tenor 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). This wine is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon coming from Stillwater Creek Vineyard on the Royal Slope and Hedges Estate on Red Mountain. All free-run juice fermented in concrete and stainless steel, it features aromas lifted by notes of bittersweet chocolate, coffee, black raspberry, green pepper, cardamom, licorice, plum and scorched earth. The palate is rich and creamy in feel, showing impressive balance and length. Vanilla notes linger on the finish. It’s a hedonistic offering of the variety. The oak shows a bit prominently at present. Give it some time to settle in. Best after 2022. Cellar Selection. —S.S. abv: 14.8% Price: $72 90 Matthews 2016 Cabernet Sauvignon (Columbia Valley). Cocoa nib, black cherry, raspberry and black licorice aromas lead to ripe, rich,…

While blends may account for the bulk of Scotch whisky sales by volume, virtually all of the growth has been in the single-malt category—that is, Scotch made by a single distillery, using only malted barley, yeast and water, in a pot still. Despite that steady growth and a stream of exciting new bottlings, the category can still be a confusing one sometimes. “For all its popularity, single malt Scotch is a drink of contradictions,” writes Clay Risen in his book Single Malt (A Scott & Nix/Quercus Edition, 2018). “It is one of the world’s most popular spirits, yet it is often derided as the drink of the elite.” Indeed, it’s easy to get lost in “stunt Scotches” packaged in fancy crystal decanters and promoted by celebrities. It also doesn’t help…

The longstanding knock on nonalcoholic beers has been that nobody buys them for their flavor. Of late, however, forward-thinking breweries have begun to produce offerings just as delicious and innovative as standard craft beer. “If you’re not drinking alcohol or want a hiatus, you don’t just want another lager,” says Tammer Zein-El-Abedein. “You can have flavor and complexity without alcohol.” In 2018, he and his wife, Donna Hockey, both longtime nondrinkers, founded Surreal Brewing Company in Campbell, California. They focused on nonalcoholic versions of beloved craft-beer styles like a roasty porter and a citrus-tinged IPA, now sold nationwide and also online from the brewery. Because they contain zero alcohol (or less than 0.5% alcohol by volume), cans can be shipped across state lines. There’s no limit to the variety…

The country’s oldest city has around eight centuries of Swedish, Russian and, of course, Finnish history woven into its medieval cobblestones. Today, Finland’s youngest generation has rejuvenated the metropolis with good food, wine and a strong design aesthetic. Wander and Wine Summer’s a lovely time to visit, but don’t fret if you can’t make the Turku Food & Wine Festival in July. There’s plenty to sip year-round. Just about every bar has caught wine fever. Starting at sleek Roster Turku, grab a glass of bubbles and park yourself, and your bike, on the terrace. Scan the chalkboard for daily by-the-glass and food options at Tintå wine bar, once an 18th-century stable. Great spots along the river for wine and a bite include Restaurant Gustavo, which serves Mediterranean-influenced options and runs…

Champagne and vodka are classic pairings for caviar. The former matches luxury with luxury, while the latter speaks to the common homelands for both products. Champagne’s acidity and bubbles and vodka’s crisp booziness are perfect foils for the richness and saltiness of cured roe. But luxury is about choice, and there are plenty of other options that pair just as well, if not better. Learn how your favorite type of caviar can pair with your preferred drink. CALIFORNIA WHITE STURGEON Cara Patricia, cofounder and sommelier of DecantSF in San Francisco, says matching weight and intensity is important when you pair wine with caviar. A style that’s too full bodied, overoaked or tannic will go very wrong, she says. To avoid yeasty, brioche characteristics and new oak that could overwhelm…

You may know vividly green, melon-flavored Midori as a novelty of happy hours past. But today, bartenders the world over have reinvented the liqueur’s narrative. And while its revival first seemed to be a passing, nostalgic trend, any of these mixologists will now tell you there’s more than meets the eye to this anachronistic alcohol. Its renaissance was set in motion in 2012, when Beam Suntory, Midori’s parent company, updated the recipe. Available stateside the following year, the improved version brought down the sugar and subbed in natural flavors for artificial ingredients. Nuanced, melon-doused drinks slowly began to appear on an assortment of beverage menus and, just like that, green was good again. Melon liqueur is now an increasingly common cocktail component in casual and complicated drinks alike. It’s…

The iconic Martini, a bracing mix of gin and vermouth, seems like it ought to be the most straightforward drink in the world. Yet, it’s often misunderstood. Even the most rigorous historians can’t pinpoint the Martini’s conception. Did it first show up at New York’s Manhattan Club or Turf Club? Or in Martinez, California, with sweetened Old Tom gin? And when did it start spawning so many variations? Most agree, however, that its heyday began in the 1880s, which coincides with the advent of the “Dry Martini.” Today, “dry” is code for “minimal vermouth,” says Robert Simonson, author of The Martini Cocktail (Ten Speed Press, 2019). But that’s not how it was first interpreted. “In the drink’s early years, ‘dry’ meant a Martini made with dry French vermouth, as opposed…

BRUT ROSÉ 97 Louis Roederer 1996 Cristal Vinothèque Rosé Brut (Champagne). This is a release of a Champagne that has been aged in the Roederer cellars for more than 20 years. Its rosé color has faded into old gold, but the fruit and texture are still extravagantly vibrant. The vintage, known at the time for its intense acidity, has aged well. That acidity still remains as does the strong mineral element. Now a touch of toast and maturity has been added to the complex texture. Drink this wine now. Maisons Marques & Domaines USA. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $2,400 95 Deutz 2009 Amour de Deutz Rosé Brut (Champagne). This is one of two prestige cuvées from this house, under the same ownership as Roederer Champagne. Always a seductive wine, this…

VALDOBBIADENE PROSECCO SUPERIORE 95 Ca’ dei Zago 2016 Metodo Classico Dosaggio Zero Vigna Bastia (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This radiant sparkler opens with aromas of fragrant spring flower, white stone fruit and citrus. On the dry, vibrant palate, a creamy mousse accompanies yellow pear, ripe apple, lime and a saline mineral note before an almond close. Crisp acidity keeps it impeccably balanced and crisp. Ethica Wines. Editors’ Choice. —K.O. abv: 11% Price: $40 95 Nino Franco 2018 Vigneto della Riva di San Floriano (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). For full review see page 166. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12% Price: $29 94 Ca’ dei Zago 2018 Rifermentato in Bottiglia (Valdobbiadene Prosecco Superiore). This lightly sparkling wine—made by a spontaneous second fermentation in the bottle—has enticing scents of hawthorn, white peach and wild herb. On the…

CHARDONNAY 95 Sandhi 2017 Bentrock Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Chalk, ash and brisk lime aromas show on the nose of this bottling by Raj Parr and Sashi Moorman, which wraps a tight mineral-driven frame around explosive energy. The stony aspects dominate the sip as well, from a chalky texture to a flinty flavor, yet there are also touches of lemon zest and lemongrass. —M.K. abv: 13% Price: $NA 94 Eden Rift 2017 Reserve Chardonnay (Cienega Valley). Clean and crisp aromas of Asian pear, white melon and underripe pineapple meet with a judicious touch of oak on the nose of this bottling from a ranch that’s been under vine since 1849. There is a great grip to the sip, which is pure and crisp, with chalk, flint and pomelo flavors. —M.K.…

VIOGNIER 90 Barboursville Vineyards 2017 Reserve Viognier (Virginia). Loads of fresh lemons are delivered on a bed of white flowers to make up the aroma. Ripe lemon and calamansi take on a lightly pithy edge on the palate, which is loaded with juicy acidity and crushed minerals. White pepper tones slink in on the long juicy finish. —F.A. abv: 13% Price: $22 90 King Family 2017 Small Batch Series Viognier (Monticello). A deep orange-tinged gold color in the glass, this Viognier offers orange, kumquat, Satsuma orange and oolong tea with a hint of sweet spice on a come-hither nose. The palate offers much of the same in flavors of orange, oolong, marigold and pear with warm spice, gently gripping tea tannin and tangy acidity. —F.A. abv: 14% Price: $35 88…

It’s officially winter, which means cooler temps and embracing all the things that can keep a chill at bay—cozy sweaters, toasty fires and, of course, drinks to warm the body and soul. Few beverages can do the latter like a dark, rich and roasty stout, filling your palate with robust, decadent flavors and sending that tingling warming sensation down to your core. With so many different stout styles available, there is almost certainly a bottling for any palate. Though they’re all flavorful, each varies in intensity, weight, alcohol and overall drinkability. Classic imperial stouts offer high alcohol content (usually between 8–12% abv) and intense, roasted-malt profiles. Oatmeal stouts are generally full bodied with moderate alcohol levels (usually between 4–7% abv) and creaminess from the addition of oats to the mash.…

Marsala wine is fortified and aged at least one year in oak, which gives it complex notes of apricot and caramel. While unbeatable as an aperitif, it can also do some heavy lifting in your cooking. This impressive dish leans on the wine’s flavor profile and comes together quickly, which makes it equally suitable for busy weeknights and weekend entertaining. WINE PAIRING Occhipinti 2017 Il Frappato (Terre Siciliane) Stay true to Sicily by choosing Frappato, a light-bodied wine that won’t overwhelm Marsala’s character. Arianna Occhipinti’s bottlings are bright and floral, with an earthy, even gamy quality that can stand up to this rich dish. CHICKEN MARSALA 6 tablespoons butter4 boneless, skinless chicken breasts (about 1½ pounds total), pounded approximately ¼-inch thick¼ cup minced shallot10 ounces sliced mushrooms½ teaspoon black…

Leah Van Dale is a nice person from Massachusetts whose love for the performing arts and fitness led her to pro wrestling. Her alter ego, Carmella, is the tough-talking one-time WWE Women’s SmackDown Champion, star of E!’s Total Divas and self-proclaimed Princess of Staten Island. Both personalities share a love of gathering with family over a good meal and bottle of wine, so Van Dale started Capo Cagna wines to channel that camaraderie. The motto for her California Chardonnay and Cabernet Sauvignon is “Caution: Not for snobs.” Here, she talks about who her wines are for (spoiler: everyone else) and how they came to be. Can you tell me a little bit about your performing career? I started dancing when I was three, and I danced all throughout high…

It can happen to the best of us. That moment when we take the first sip of a new wine and find ourselves writing it off without a second thought or taste, pushing away the glass dismissively. For those who review wines for a living, we make a conscious effort not to do this. As recreational wine drinkers, it’s equally important to keep an open mind, as it can be too easy to pass on a wine outside of your comfort zone. “Cellar palate” is a phrase used to describe a condition that can afflict winemakers when they become too accustomed to their own wines and the wines of their regions, rarely tasting bottlings from outside their orbits. The lack of broad tasting and expansive exposure to the greater…

WHITE WINES 90 Gál Tibor 2018 Ti Ti Egri Csillag (Eger). This Hungarian Egri Csillag is a blend of white grapes grown in Eger. The name means Glittering Star of Eger. It has aromas of lemongrass, white peach and white flowers. It is medium bodied and well balanced with flavors of honeydew and lemon blossom. It has good minerality and a crisp clean finish. Palinkerie/Fine Hungarian Imports. Best Buy. —J.J. abv: 13.5% Price: $15 89 Royal Tokaji 2016 The Oddity Dry Furmint (Tokaji). This 100% Hungarian dry Furmint has aromas of white flowers, peach and ripe apricot. In the mouth, it is well balanced with flavors of peach, lemon zest and fresh apricot, and it has a crisp, pleasantly tart finish. Wilson Daniels Ltd. —J.J. abv: 12.5% Price: $17 89…

I’ve spent the past two years almost continuously on the road. Work on a book about German wine entailed repeated, long car journeys to the country I left behind, with hours on the Autobahn to think about what “home” actually means. Here I was, not a stranger exactly, but no longer belonging, either. My uprooting started when I was a teenager. I grew up in a small, southern German village, and our close little family never strayed far. With my favorite book being a children’s atlas, I was intensely aware that there was a big, wide world out there. I wanted to see it. I understood instinctively that language was the key. I absorbed English vocab at school like a sponge. As soon as I could get away, I…