Innholdsfortegnelse for December 2019 i Wine Enthusiast Magazine

Adam M. Strum PUBLISHER & EDITOR Susan Kostrzewa EXECUTIVE EDITOR Jacqueline Strum ASSOCIATE PUBLISHER & VICE PRESIDENT OF MEDIA MANAGING EDITOR Lauren Buzzeo DIGITAL CONTENT DIRECTOR Marina Vataj CREATIVE DIRECTOR Marco Turelli DIGITAL CREATIVE DIRECTOR Julia Lea TASTING DIRECTOR Alexander Peartree EDITORIAL SENIOR EDITOR Layla Schlack ASSOCIATE EDITOR Sarah Daniels TASTING ASSISTANT TASTING DIRECTOR Fiona Adams TASTING COORDINATOR Craig Chamberlain ASSISTANT TASTING COORDINATOR William Johnson DIGITAL SENIOR DIGITAL EDITORS Dylan Garret, Siobhan Wallace ASSISTANT DIGITAL EDITOR Kristen Richard SOCIAL MEDIA MANAGER Elyse Estrella SOCIAL MEDIA COORDINATOR Marco Bruno DESIGN ART DIRECTOR Monica Simon ASSOCIATE DIGITAL DESIGNER Eric DeFreitas VISUAL PRODUCER Jesse Reiter ASSOCIATE PHOTO PRODUCER Tom Arena CONTRIBUTING EDITORS EUROPEAN EDITOR Roger Voss ITALIAN EDITOR Kerin O’Keefe WINE Michael Schachner, Paul Gregutt, Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon, Matt Kettmann, Sean P. Sullivan, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Anne Krebiehl, MW, Christina Pickard SPIRITS EDITOR Kara Newman FOOD Nils Bernstein LIFESTYLE…

The holidays are in full swing, and we’ve got a gift suggestion for the wine lover in your life: Don’t just put a bow on a bottle of wine—give the gift of time spent together creating a cellar. Helping someone special get their space set up and making plans about which bottles the two of you will drink is a fun activity, and it’s more personal than giving a present on its own. Read on for all the steps you need to create a memorable, experiential gift, and visit wineenthusiast.com for supplies. 1 CREATE A SPACE Maybe your loved one has the perfect nook in mind and has been meaning to put in a cellar; give them proper racking and install it together. Alternatively, they haven’t found the right…

After a day of visits to chilly cellars in Bordeaux, Burgundy or Champagne, few activities could satisfy more than a spa treatment—just imagine sipping while you soak in an oak wine barrel or while looking out over a sprawling vineyard. Bien-être, well-being, is as familiar a word in France as cave, coupe or carafe, so it’s fitting that that vinotherapy treatments were developed in Bordeaux. Over-the-top spas in Burgundy and Champagne have created their own unique, site-specific wine-related treatments. Here are three to check out. LES SOURCES DE CAUDALIE BORDEAUX When the Cathiard family, owners of Château Smith Haut Lafitte, learned about the health of antioxidant-rich grape seeds, they developed Caudalie vinotherapy skincare products and treatments, which include face masks and toners, body scrubs, hand/foot services and more. They…

Aged saké was once a prized beverage of Japan, but when breweries began to be taxed at production rather than sale in the late 1800s, it suddenly became impractical. By the time the laws changed back in 1944, the tradition was largely lost. Koshu saké, aged for at least three years, remains rare, but Japanese brewers seek to revive this old beverage through a mix of traditional and new techniques. Traditional koshu ages at room temperature or above, developing caramel colors and nutty notes that recall dry Sherry. But modern koshu styles vary widely. Brewers experiment with aging at near-freezing temperatures that maintain the drink’s clear color and fresh flavors, yet still bring concentrated umami and texture. “Koshu is an emerging category,” says saké expert Timothy Sullivan, founder of…

There are as many reasons to stock up on Oregon wines as there are bottles to collect. In addition to the obvious—a global reputation for expressive wines—the state’s had a string of outstanding vintages starting in 2014. This has made the wines a hot commodity for both collectors with expansive cellars and those just getting started. Conversations with some of the state’s top vintners further solidify why these wines have such strong appeal to collectors. Ahead, meet the producers whose bottles are worth the hunt—because isn’t that part of the fun? Aiming for Grand Cru-level Greatness Tony Soter, Soter Vineyards Winemaker Tony Soter’s résumé spans four decades and includes consulting work at Napa stalwarts like Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, Spring Mountain Vineyard and Spottswoode. His own California brand, Etude, rose…

The warm 2015 growing season in Barolo posed a few challenges for growers, but overall, it was excellent. Coming after the extremely difficult 2014 vintage, which was marked by cool summer temperatures and intense rain during the growing season, the overall hot 2015 vintage was a welcome relief for growers. Despite the above-average summer-time temperatures, 2015 Barolos are balanced and poised, with restrained alcohol levels. The year began with plenty of snow and precipitation, creating an abundant reserve of water in the soils that proved crucial during the scorching summer. Mild temperatures dominated from February to May, accelerating bud break and flowering. The end of May and the first 10 days of June saw a series of rainfalls and storms followed by extreme, persistent heat and drought throughout July and…

VINTAGE 100 Billecart-Salmon 2002 Le Clos Saint-Hilaire Brut (Champagne). For full review see page 115. Editors’ Choice. abv: 12.5% Price: $500 100 Louis Roederer 1996 Cristal Vinothèque Brut (Champagne). For full review see page 115. Cellar Selection. abv: 12% Price: $1,100 98 Bollinger 2004 R.D. Extra Brut (Champagne). The wine’s name stands for recently disgorged and this vintage Champagne was taken off its in 2018. That gave many years for it to develop its depth of flavor, richness and beautifully memorable toasty flavors. Drink through 2028. Vintus LLC. Cellar Selection. —R.V. abv: 12% Price: $300 98 Louis Roederer 2008 Cristal Brut (Champagne). The latest incarnation of Roederer’s iconic Champagne, this comes from a great vintage and is balanced, moving towards maturity. White stone fruit are shot through by lemon acidity.…

RIESLING KABINETT 94 Zilliken 2017 Saarburg Rausch Riesling Kabinett Grosse Lage (Mosel). There’s so much joy in this zippy, intensely honeyed Kabinett. Heady notes of blossom and tropical fruit extend from nose to finish here, flooding the palate with mango, guava and pineapple flavors. Struck with steel and acidity, the finish feels crystalline and pure. It’s delightful already but should gain mineral intensities and texture well through 2030. Rudi Wiest Selections. Editors’ Choice. —A.I. abv: 8% Price: $36 93 Reichsgraf von Kesselstatt 2017 Piesporter Goldtröpfchen Riesling Kabinett Grosse Lage (Mosel). While the nose is initially smoky and restrained, bold darts of tropical mango, pineapple and melon flavors abound in this zippy Kabinett. It’s sumptuous off-dry style is lip-smacking and delightful. Light sabers of acidity and lean mineral tones lend elegance…

PINOT GRIS 92 Cardwell Hill 2018 Estate Bottled Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). Even with a price increase this remains a top tier, superb value in Oregon Pinot Gris. Rich, concentrated flavors of Meyer lemon, Honeycrisp apple and peaches with a splash of cream dive deep down through the palate. The intensity is further amped up by perfectly pitched acids, thanks to no malolactic fermentation. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13.4% Price: $18 91 Fullerton 2018 Three Otters Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This aromatic wine entices with scents of graham cracker, honey and beeswax. Lovely in the mouth, it brings ripe apple, pear and highlights of clover and honeycomb. The length and texture are exceptional. Editors’ Choice. —P.G. abv: 13% Price: $20 91 Lange 2018 Classique Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley). This is…

For a category so often associated with luxury and over-the-top opulence—the drink of kings and hip-hop royalty—it’s good to remember that not all Cognac is super-pricey and precious. And VSOP Cognac is a good place to start pouring. Compared to the youngest Cognac (VS), which can be oaky and astringent—often better to mix than drink straight—VSOP is mellow and mature. To be called VSOP, the youngest brandy in the mix must be at least four years old, however often it’s blended with much older eaux-de-vie. You’ll almost never see a single-vintage Cognac, traditionally it’s a blend of various ages. Blending is VSOP’s strength: The younger brandies provide backbone, hints of dried fruit or a floral tinge, while the older brandies add smooth layers of vanilla, caramel and spice. The end…

Recently, I had the pleasure of sampling a current vintage 100-point super Tuscan with a group of colleagues to celebrate a special occasion. While this iconic wine was extremely complex, focused and intense, it wasn’t really “drinking well.” Granted, it needed time to open up and perhaps a side of beef to pair with, but the consensus was that it wasn’t the earth-shattering experience the group had anticipated. The following Sunday, I dug deep in my cellar to find a 1989 Clos des Jacobins Saint-Émilion Grand Cru that received a 90-point score in 1999. It had been stored properly for the last two decades, so I figured this was a perfect time to open it up. I seemed to have caught it in its peak stage when it wasn’t…

Count down the days of December with these spirited presents.…

The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new-release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Alexander Peartree, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Fiona Adams, Contributing Editors Michael Schachner, Anna Lee C. Iijima, Christina Pickard, Mike DeSimone, Jeff Jenssen and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York; European Editor Roger Voss in France; Italian Editor Kerin O’Keefe in Switzerland; Contributing Editor Anne Krebiehl in England; Contributing Editors Virginie Boone, Jim Gordon and Matt Kettmann in California; and Contributing Editors Paul Gregutt and Sean Sullivan in Washington. If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s initials appear following the note. When no initials…

SAINT-ESTÈPHE 92 Château Phélan-Ségur 2016 La Croix Bonis (Saint-Estèphe). From a selection of parcels on the Phélan-Ségur estate, this wine has plenty of tannins while also offering ripe, spicy fruit. Richly structured, dense and with bold black-plum flavors, the wine should age longer. Drink from 2023. Frederick Wildman & Sons, Ltd. —R.V. abv: 13% Price: $39 92 Château Ségur de Cabanac 2014 Saint-Estèphe. This wine comes from a 17-acre vineyard, an amalgamation of several different parcels. Its structure and dense tannins are backed by juicy black acidity and a firm texture. Give this wine time and drink from 2023. Victory Wine Group. —R.V. abv: 13.5% Price: $30 90 Château Haut Tour de Coutelin 2016 Saint-Estèphe. Vineyards at the highest point in Saint-Estèphe have produced this richly structured wine, typical of…

CHARDONNAY 91 Stella Bella 2017 Otro Vino Chardonnay (Margaret River). The Stella Bella range of wines are almost always highly drinkable yet unforced, and offering great value for money and this Chard is no exception. On the nose, this offers delicate aromas of sea breeze, orange peel, lemon and nuts. On the palate there’s a refreshing crunch of acidity and shimmering citrusy fruit balanced by a slippery texture and a long, salt-rimmed finish that makes you want to crack this open over a plate of seafood perched beside the sea. Little Peacock Imports. Editors’ Choice. —C.P. abv: 12.4% Price: $25 91 Streicker 2017 Ironstone Chardonnay (Margaret River). Classic modern Margaret River in style, this starts a touch reductively but those onion-skin notes dissipate quickly in glass, replaced by grapefruit, lemon,…

The Pavlova, a meringue-based dessert said to be named for Russian ballerina Anna Pavlova’s tutu, has an excellent effort-to-payoff ratio. Its simplicity, however, means that technique is key to ensure a crisp exterior and marshmallow-like center. At The Ravenous Pig, this Pavlova is often served with a variety of fruit. CLASSIC PAVLOVA Courtesy Esther Rodriguez, pastry chef, The Ravenous Pig, Orlando, FL 5 egg whites, room temperature1¼ cups granulated sugar1 teaspoon cornstarch1 teaspoon white vinegar or white-wine vinegar1 teaspoon vanilla extract1 cup heavy whipping cream, chilled3 cups berries or other chopped fruitMint leaves, for garnish (optional) Heat oven to 350˚F. Using electric mixer fitted with whisk attachment, whip egg whites until soft peaks form. Continue to whip, slowly adding sugar, until stiff, glossy peaks form, about 3 minutes. Add…

You’ll find great pairings at the overlap of fennel and wine. The winter crop can play a few roles: vegetable (the bulb), herb (the lacy fronds) and spice (the seeds). All parts of the plant can be eaten raw or cooked, in everything from salads to sausages. Available year-round, fennel has its peak season from late fall to early spring, bringing bright flavor to this typically sun-starved period. Choose a wine pairing based on whichever side of fennel’s personality is most attractive to you. ANISE Licorice-adjacent anise is the dominant flavor of fennel. Those who love the taste will want a wine that highlights that flavor. The cherry and berry characters of Italian Barbera are offset by notes of anise and other sweet spices and dried herbs. It’s especially…

This is a pink take on the French 75, a classic Champagne cocktail, says Craft & Cocktails blogger Ashley Rose Conway in her new book, Celebrate Rosé: Cocktails & Parties for Life’s Rosiest Moments. In the book, she calls for Monkey 47 gin, which is ultracomplex and has fruity characteristics that will match the rosé, but it’s hard to go wrong with whatever you have on hand. “With only four ingredients and no infusions required, this sparkling concoction is perfect for when you need a drink in a jiffy to serve guests,” she says. It’s even friendly to advance preparation: Just multiply the first three ingredients and chill the strained drink until ready to serve. When guests arrive, divide among several flutes and pour in the bubbles. ROSÉ 75…

RIBERA DEL DUERO 91 Legaris 2011 Calmo (Ribera del Duero). A dark, smoky nose with Bourbon barrel richness and concentrated black fruit aromas leads to a strict palate that’s tight as nuts and bolts. A dark, smoky flavor profile is driven by toasty oak, while dark chocolate comes in on the finish. Drink through 2027. Aveniù Brands, Inc. —M.S. abv: 15% Price: $110 90 12 Linajes 2016 Crianza Tempranillo (Ribera del Duero). Bold berry fruit and oaky vanilla aromas are integrated and inviting. In the mouth, this crianza from a strong vintage feels deep, flush and layered, with firm tannins. Blackberry and black currant flavors don’t go much further on a staunch finish. Drink this steady crianza over the next few years. USA Wine West. —M.S. abv: 14.5% Price: $25…

SPARKLING WINES 93 Schloss Gobelsburg 2008 Vintage (Austrian Sekt). Creamy, lemony chalkiness on the nose promises a serious wine, with some age. The slender palate comes in with tiny bubbles of creamy foam, dancing against a yeasty, chalky, stony backdrop. They release notions of lemon and honey, contradictory notions that create drama, richness and freshness. The finish is creamy, intense with chalkiness, long and dry. Skurnik Wines, Inc. —A.K. abv: 12% Price: $90 92 Jurtschitsch NV Brut Rosé (Austrian Sekt). Yeast, lemon and tart red berry on the nose promise freshness and body in equal measure. The palate adds to the allure, with a fine foam of tiny bubbles on a slender, dry, fresh palate. Hints of red apple appear on the bone-dry finish alongside vivid lemon and yeasty creaminess.…

SAUVIGNON BLANC 95 Kenzo Estate 2018 Asatsuyu Estate Bottled Sauvignon Blanc (Napa Valley). For full review see page 116. abv: 14.2% Price: $80 94 Joseph Phelps 2018 Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (St. Helena). This is outstanding white wine, entirely varietal and estate, aged in both new and old puncheons. Matchstick, flint and rounded acidity boost a midpalate of structure and complexity highlighted in white flower, lemon zest and Asian pear. Editors’ Choice. —V.B. abv: 13.5% Price: $45 91 Mirror 2018 Sauvignon Blanc (Rutherford). Bright in lemon and wet stone, this white offers an impressive breadth of flavor and texture. The oak is well integrated, yielding a wine that is open to lasting refreshment. —V.B. abv: 13.9% Price: $28 90 Kunde 2018 Magnolia Lane Estate Grown Sauvignon Blanc (Sonoma Valley). For…

CHARDONNAY 92 Nathan K. 2016 Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Pristine aromas of lemongrass and white flowers carry the nose of this polished Chardonnay. The palate brings crunchy white-plum and lemon-zest flavors set against delicate warm spices, with bright acidity integrated into a silken backdrop. Powdered lemon candies linger on the close. —A.P. abv: 12.3% Price: $33 91 Dr. Konstantin Frank 2017 Hilda Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). For full review see page 125. abv: 12% Price: $35 90 Heron Hill 2017 Unoaked Ingle Vineyard Chardonnay (Finger Lakes). Sourced from a vineyard on the west side of Canandaigua Lake, this wine offers bright, focused aromas of white flowers, lime peel and crushed stone. The light-bodied palate is mildly creamy in lemon curd and white-plum flavors that are shot through with bright, zesty acidity. A…

First, we covered the new breed of New England-style IPAs, also known as juicy or hazy IPAs, in the October Beer Buying Guide. Then, we moved on to non-hazy American IPA offerings, those in the 4–7% abv range, for November. And now, here we are at the pièce de résistance: American Double or Imperial IPAs. The big boys of the IPA world, double or imperial IPAs typically offer the most intense experiences within the style category—more malt, more alcohol and most importantly, more hops. The resulting beers are often complex, strong sippers, with international bittering units (IBUs) climbing above 60 and, in some cases, well beyond at upward of 100. Double or imperial IPAs, casually referred to and occasionally labeled as DIPAs, are perfect for the season. They lend themselves…